Please sign in to post.

Penguins! A trip report

In November 2025, I started thinking about a trip to see penguins. I started researching and discovered lots of options. Then RS Forum member Carla described an amazing day at Volunteer Point in the Falkland Islands, and a YouTuber posted an incredible video of her visit there, so the decision was made: we would go to the Falkland Islands for a week.

Falklands You Tube

We soon learned that the best King penguin viewing was from late January to early March – which is summer in the Falklands. By that point chicks have hatched and both parents are usually around. By April most of the adults have gone back to the sea for 6-8 months, returning occasionally to feed the chicks who stay on the island for a couple of years.

At our ages (79 and 82) we did not want to put this off until 2027, and February was coming up soon, so I contacted Falkland Islands Holidays ([email protected]). And started looking at flights.

There are two ways to get to the Falkland Islands: the RAF Airbridge from the UK – I think twice weekly – which is about an 18-hour flight, making one refueling stop on the way. Or a weekly (Saturday) flight on Latam Airlines from Santiago, Chile, which makes one stop on the way (in Punta Arenas, Chile).

My extremely helpful agent at FIH (Tonisha Courtney) asked what kind of a holiday we were looking for – there are lots of options, depending on your age and fitness level and interests. Falkland has 740 islands, but just 3000 residents and few roads. Transport between islands is mainly on tiny airplanes, which land in fields (not paved runways). The islands offer lots of hiking, some kayaking, many off-road tours in 4x4’s, which can be a full day. We asked for a less strenuous itinerary, with the emphasis on penguins. She gave us some options and came up with a plan, which included transfers to/from airports within the Falklands, all internal flights within the islands, all tours, all hotels, most meals. Cost was about $6000 for the two of us. I don’t think you could do this without a local agency coordinating everything. There is no public transportation, few taxis, and few roads outside of Stanley, the main town.

Tonisha sent useful information which indicated, among other things, that all visitors must have sufficient medical/travel insurance including medical evacuation by air ambulance, of at least US $2 million. Whoops! We have an annual travel policy with DAN for $1 million evacuation, which they could extend to $1.5 million for about $200. A quick email to the customs administrator verified that he’d be OK with $1.5 million. It was never checked upon arrival.

So by mid-December we felt comfortable making flight arrangements. We settled on Copa Airlines from Denver to Santiago (with a stop in Panama City), and then Latam Airways (the only choice) from Santiago to Falklands. Our flight left Denver around 9:30 pm on Thursday Feb. 19 and we walked into our Falkland hotel around 5:30 pm on Saturday Feb. 21.

About 9 am on Sunday, our driver collected us at our hotel (the very nice Malvina House Hotel) and we were off to Volunteer Point! His name was Nobby, and he was a gregarious character who set the tone for the whole week. We were on a paved road for maybe 45 minutes, then off-road for about 2 hours. His 4x4 was very comfortable – huge tires – we bumped across fields and through ditches, and he entertained us the whole time. He asked where we were going tomorrow, and we said Pebble Lodge guesthouse on Pebble Island. He told us he’d been imprisoned in that house for 32 days during the Falkland Islands War in 1982.

Posted by
2361 posts

When we reached Volunteer Point and stepped out of the vehicle, there were King penguins everywhere. There’s a huge nesting area, across the field, outlined by white rocks. But that’s just to keep people out. Penguins can come and go as they please, across the fields and down to the sea. We were grinning the whole time, and taking way too many photos and videos. The nesting area had thousands of Penguins, making a raucous noise. We could see the small furry brown babies, and the taller but still brown furry juveniles. We sat on the grass and watched, and walked down to the sea, where we saw another breed – Gentoo penguins – running in and out of the water. We took a break to eat the lunch our hotel had packed, and then took more photos til my battery went dead!

On our way back, Nobby was asked to watch for some young British soldiers, who had borrowed a jeep from the base and gotten stuck in a ditch. We found them, and Nobby pulled them out, and they carefully followed his tracks back to the highway. What a memorable day.

On Monday we took a tiny red Fishery Patrol airplane to Pebble Island. It held 8 people including the pilot and was very noisy. It landed in a field, and we were collected by our host from the Pebble Lodge. This converted farmhouse has 6 bedrooms and a large dining room. We had 3 very comfortable nights here, plus all of our meals – breakfast and dinner in the dining room, and a packed lunch during our excursions.

Here our guide was the friendly Louis, and again Tuesday we spent about 6 hours driving off road, visiting various spots around the island. Our first stop was a Rockhopper colony. We were so excited to see them but Louis regretfully told us that most of the colony had already gone back to the sea. We still saw hundreds, and they were very photogenic, but there were thousands a few weeks prior.

We stopped along a beach where we saw sea lions sleeping on the sand. It reminded us of Galapagos – creatures on Falklands don’t see many humans and are not afraid of us. We could walk very close without them paying any attention. There were lots of birds. And more Gentoo penguins running on the beach.

On Wednesday, we were back in the 4x4 to explore the other end of the island. We saw more rock hoppers and our fourth penguin species – Magellanic – which live in burrows, along the sea and sometimes in fields. We would be riding along and see penguins just standing in a field – and then notice their huge burrows nearby. And we saw a huge flock of black and white cormorants on a beach … looked like penguins at first glance! There were dolphins surfing the waves. A whale, just off the coast. So many birds. And those adorable gentoos, holding out their wings and running into the surf like toddlers.

On Thursday morning we returned to the Pebble Island airport and our flight back to Stanley. We anticipated having Friday free to wander the town, buy souvenirs, and prepare for our long journey home Saturday. But Friday morning we learned our Saturday flight had been cancelled (high wind forecast). We were momentarily concerned, as that’s the only flight of the week. But then they rescheduled to Sunday, we were able to modify our other flight reservations and our hotel at the Santiago airport. And so we had an extra day in Stanley. We returned home uneventfully on Monday March 2.

My husband and I have been travelling internationally for 25 years and this was our biggest adventure yet. We still can hardly believe we actually did it. We were by far the oldest people . . . and probably should have gone in our 50’s or 60’s . . . but we are so, so glad that we did it anyway. It still makes us smile to remember all the wonderful people and, of course, those penguins.

Posted by
2097 posts

Great report! I'm going to send the link to my daughter, who loves penguins.

Posted by
583 posts

What a fun report! Thank you so much for taking the time to share this trip. You had a great, successful adventure. Very cool.

Posted by
3475 posts

Wow! What a trip! It is so cool that you got to do this.

People on this board truly inspire me with what they do as they move up in years. It encourages me to consider that we might have more years for travel than I had assumed.

Posted by
589 posts

Wow! What an amazing trip you had! I feel very inspired to be more adventurous in our travels. Thank you for the trip report.

Posted by
2361 posts

Thanks everyone! It really was amazing. And one lucky part for us was the weather. I’d been checking Stanley in my weather app & it was windy & rainy & dreary 50’s for the weeks leading up to our trip. Nobby said it was their worst summer in a long time. And we had packed accordingly.

But we evidently brought our Colorado sunshine with us. We had blue skies & sunny days & not a drop of rain the whole week. So that made it even better.

Posted by
460 posts

Welcome home and a well- deserved congratulations for making this travel dream come true for yourselves! So inspiring! Thank you for sharing your adventure (and happy the sun came along)! Where are you off to next?!

Posted by
2361 posts

I really appreciate the kind words.

Next for us is Greece in September, which we think of as our wellness retreat. We see something new each year (this time it’s Napflio) — but spend most of our month on the southwest coast of Crete.

And we’re looking at Costa Rica for next February. We somehow ended up with $3200 travel credits from Copa Airlines after changing our flights home from Santiago. We have to use it in a year and there are not many options from Denver. We’ve not been to Costa Rica so now I have a new place to research!

Posted by
5406 posts

Hi Charlene,

Such an amazing trip! Thank you for sharing it with us!
You and your DH are so adventurous and inspiring!

What a long trek to get there, did you experience jet lag?

Sounds like one would need a very knowledge travel agent, such as yours, to plan such a trip.

Thanks again for sharing your wonderful trip adventures!

Posted by
1838 posts

What a wonderful trip, Charlene. Very inspiring.

Posted by
2361 posts

Hi Priscilla —
No, we had no jet lag. We had business class flights, and the trip was broken up with a hotel overnight in Santiago (albeit with a 3 am wake-up call!). There was just a 3 hour time difference between Denver & Stanley so we adjusted pretty easily.

We were fairly exhausted upon reaching home though!