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Peaceful Montefalco and Bevagna...

I departed beautiful Assisi on the day after St. Francis’ Feast, October 5th.
I enjoyed an hour or so browsing through the big open market that is held on Piazza del Comune and along some of its side streets. Stefano had told me about this event which only happens once a year. There were numerous merchants selling various items, including shoes, clothes, sunglasses, housewares, sausages, cured meats, cheeses, porchetta, onions, potatoes and garlic. I was hoping to buy some grapes or other fruit but I didn't find any.

At noon I walked to the bus stop, boarded the bus and bid Assisi farewell as the bus left the beautiful city behind.
I then took the train to Foligno and waited for the bus that would take me to Montefalco.

When I boarded the bus in front of the train station, it was nearly empty but soon became packed with exuberant teen students. I’d asked the bus driver (in Italian) to please tell me when we would arrive to Montefalco, and he’d agreed with an affirmative, “sì!”
I’d studied the bus schedule and I knew what time it should arrive to my destination, but apparently the bus didn’t make one of its stops and it was running a few minutes ahead of schedule.
When I realized that my stop was imminent, I walked to the front and asked the driver if Montefalco was the next stop. I was surprised when he replied: “Abbiamo già passato Montefalco!” (we already passed Montefalco!)
What, how is this possible? I thought to myself.

When I asked if I should get off at the next stop, he said no. He then started talking on his cell phone and kept driving farther and farther away from Montefalco. He finally stopped at a large empty parking lot and proceeded to tell me that the next bus back to Montefalco would be coming by at 17:00. He even wrote the time on a piece of paper to make sure I had understood.
I said “Grazie” and got off the bus feeling upset and discouraged. The time was 14:15.

So as I stood there in the middle of this empty parking lot with a sign that read, “Piazza del Popolo”(in Bastardo), I remembered something Wray wrote to me a few months back, something she had learned from a yoga teacher:

“life is a series of "adventures”, all adventures are good. They are
learning experiences to expand our being"

Hmmm… How is this supposed to be a “good” adventure?

Fortunately, I’d emailed the hotel a few days prior and had asked if someone would meet me at the bus stop. So when I called the hotel and explained my situation, the voice at the other end was calm and reassuring: "don't worry madam someone will come and get you”. I heard myself saying; Grazie mille!

Then Cecilia said; “Stefano will be there in a short time". When I asked what color his car was, she replied; "a black Porsche"

I looked around to find a place to sit and then noticed a young woman sitting on the curve at the edge of the parking lot so I walked over, lugging my small carry-on, and sat by her. I said hello and we ended up having a nice conversation (thanks to Google- translate) until my ride arrived. At the young age of seventeen, she told me that she thought Italy was “boring” and that she and her boyfriend were saving their money to move to California! I encouraged her to continue her education and to make the best out of her life.

Stefano arrived in his black Porsche as promised, I bid the young woman farewell and we drove off. When I thanked Stefano he said; "no problem, Montefalco is only 8 Kilometers from Bastardo". When we arrived at the hotel, Stefano helped me with my luggage. Then Cecilia, the hotel's receptionist, greeted me and showed me to my room on the second floor. After dropping off my luggage, I went downstairs and received a map of the town. I asked about a market but there wasn't one nearby. Cecilia told me about a small convenient store in the piazza but it was closed that day.

Continued below...

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Since it was already past 3pm, all the restaurants were closed, so I found a pizzeria nearby that was open. I was the only one sitting at this pizzeria eating my lunch at 4pm! I ordered the roasted pork, as recommended by the waitress, and a mixed salad. My food was okay, not great but I was hungry.

I was grateful to finally be in Montefalco, however, I hadn’t done much research and didn’t know much about this medieval hill town except that it was famous for its Sagrantino wine.
After my late lunch, I walked around this tranquil town. It was so quiet and peaceful. When I arrived to the edge of the town along its medieval wall, I became mesmerized by the magnificent panoramic views of the green valley below; It was like a wonderful huge green quilt made out of vineyards and olive groves which had been gently laid down. I could clearly identify Assisi and Spello in the distance.
Montefalco is known as the, “balcony of Umbria”, and now I understood why.

After enjoying the grand view of the valley, I walked along the sleepy streets and found the beautiful Sanctuary of Saint Clare just outside the town wall.
I then walked back up past the Piazza del Comune and visited the Museum of San Francesco. I enjoyed this small museum, especially the church of St. Francis (located on the lower level) decorated with amazing frescoes. I was the only person visiting the museum at the time and it was a delight to get so close to the beautiful paintings and the frescoes.

The following morning ( Friday), I met a nice couple from Australia in the breakfast room. When they found out that I was also departing Montefalco on Sunday, they offered to share the taxi ride with me (buses don’t run on Sundays in Umbria) and I gladly agreed. After breakfast, the hotel owner, Carla, arranged the taxi for us.

Since I was determined to visit Bevagna the following day, I walked to the TI office to find out if they could help me find a different bus schedule. The only bus I’d found departed Montefalco at 6:15AM! I spent a long time at the TI office but in the end my time paid off because we were able to find a different bus departing at 8:10AM.

After enjoying a nice walk around the town, I headed to a small trattoria just outside the walls.
While waiting for my food, I noticed a woman sitting by herself reading the newspaper. After a few minutes I mustered the courage to ask if she spoke English. She replied that she did and after conversing for a couple of minutes, she invited me to join her at her table. We ended up talking for almost two hours! I learned that she’s from the U.S. but has called Umbria her home for the past 13 years. She lives in an amazing apartment with her cat, her Baby Grand piano, a great collection of books (she’s a writer), and she has made many friends. I think she has found la dolce vita. When she asked me if I had visited Bevagna, I told her that I’d planned to take the bus the following day. Long story short, she offered to take me to Bevagna that very afternoon!

When we arrived to Bevagna, she pulled into a parking lot just before the town walls and explained where I’d find the TI office in the main square with the two churches facing each other.

Bevagna is a charming medieval town with some beautiful churches and
a small river that runs outside the town wall. I spent about 2.5 hours walking along the quiet narrow stone streets, visiting the beautiful Romanesque churches including the two on Piazza Silvestri and San Francesco’s church located further into the town. I also took a short tour of the remains of the Roman Theater and of a medieval home that had been built over the theater. The woman giving the tour did not speak English but she spoke slowly and clearly so I was able to understand most of what she’d said.

Continued...

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Afterwards I walked back toward Piazza Silvestri, I stopped at a couple of shops, found a beautiful scarf for my new friend, then got a gelato and sat on one of the tables just across from the gelateria. I enjoyed watching a young woman talking sweetly and taking selfies with an elderly woman who was sitting in a wheelchair. I presumed the elderly woman was the young woman’s Nonna.

Once I’d finished eating my gelato, I called my new friend and she picked me up right outside the walls where she had dropped me off earlier.
As she drove us back to Montefalco, we witnessed a gorgeous sunset. When I gave her the scarf as a token of my gratitude she was unexpectedly surprised.

So my adventure turned out well after all and now I have a new friend in Montefalco!

The following day was my last day in Montefalco. I didn’t have any plans, so decided to spend a quiet day walking around this peaceful town.
When I walked to the main piazza in the late morning, I saw the Australian woman whom I'd met the day before at breakfast.
She was sitting by herself outside a café so I approached her and asked if I could join her. We spent a couple of hours just talking.

Afterwards, I decided to eat lunch at this tiny place that had been recommended by Cecilia (the hotel's receptionist)
It's called 'Ristoteca Mordecai', a quaint place with only 4 tables within.
The waiter recommended the spinach and cheese ravioli with a butter and sage sauce made freshly by his chef, Sara.
The ravioli were so delicious; I could have licked the plate but used a piece of bread to clean my plate instead.
I decided to order dessert. A chocolate almond cake served with pistachio gelato also very delicious!

After lunch I browsed in a couple of shops selling beautiful linen table clothes, curtains, and such.
I went back to my hotel room at around 5:30pm. Then went out on the terrace to watch the sunset and to say goodbye to peaceful Montefalco.

The following morning (Sunday) after breakfast, I waited for the Australian couple in the lobby, our taxi arrived and we bid Carla, the hotel’s owner, goodbye.
The taxi driver took us to Foligno’s train station, dropped off the Australian couple, we all bid each other farewell, then the taxi driver drove me to my next destination… Trevi.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

Priscilla

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707 posts

Those towns are now on the list, thanks :-)

Posted by
11613 posts

Priscilla, you are hitting my favorite places in Umbria! Can't wait for Trevi...

Posted by
6527 posts

Happy Thanksgiving to you, Priscilla. And thank you for the lovely trip reports.

Posted by
10192 posts

Priscilla, you really are incredible how you are able to connect with people!! That's so lovely that the lady in Montefalco took you and picked you back up from Bevagna -- and your thoughtfulness in getting her a gift of thanks! So glad too you found a solution for the being-left-by-the-bus-driver situation. And how cool that you thought of Wray for inspiration.

It sounds beautiful there. Ready for the next installment!

p.s. hope you had a lovely Thanksgiving.

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5293 posts

Kim,

you really are incredible how you are able to connect with people!!

I actually consider myself to be an introvert. I’m so grateful for having had the opportunity to take this solo trip. I learned that when one is traveling solo, one has a choice to connect with others or not.
Honestly, I missed not having a traveling companion, so that made it easier for me to connect with others.

I hope you had a lovely Thanksgiving too!

I love Thanksgiving because I get to spend time with my three young adult children! :-)

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7803 posts

Always enjoy reading about your wonderful adventures, Priscilla!