Paris: The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

We get a lot of tourists here in the nation's capital, many from places where it's obvious they don't have much (if any) public transportation. So when the metro chimes "doors closing", many of them somehow don't believe the door will (indeed) close on them. So I've seen this movie before too many times (also with some enterprising locals who try so desperately to jump on the metro that they get their briefcase, bag, or hand closed on them). The metro doesn't wait. When the doors are closing, they're really closing. That means don't take your sweet time, rather hurry up and get on fast before your body gets jammed in the door.

No one in Europe in the service sector will call you "sweetie" or "honey", they just don't roll like that. Things are much more formal all around. Viva la difference! Things are different from home, but most of the time much better.

Sounds like you had a good visit! I wouldn't focus on the bad or sorta bad, some of that is just travel skills and some things you can't control.

Agnes, I recall being in DC and not knowing what the hell I was doing on the metro. I could hear the locals sighing behind me while I tried to figure out how to put the ticket into the machine (or scan it). There were several people at the ticket machines--some looking at each other for help--trying to figure out what to do. I found the Paris ticketing machines easy to figure out.

Edit: Where I'm from public transportation is Larry picking us up in his truck.

Yup, locals get really ticked here even if tourists stand on the left side of the escalator. The left is the "passing lane", while the right is the standing lane. It's one of those unwritten rules that they think all tourists should know (I know it's not fair, but it is what it is). I dunno, the metro machines seem pretty straightforward and the system maps aren't too hard to follow. Compared to NYC's MTA system, it's much simpler. But like everything else, there may be a short(ish) learning curve.

"Edit: Where I'm from public transportation is Larry picking us up in his truck." It's Helen or Hank here.

You arrive in a city (Germany, Switzerland, France, doesn't matter), walk out of the station and you need to get a tram/bus/métro to your destination, but first you have to buy a ticket. One thing I have learnt the hard way, don't go to the first machine you see if somebody is already using it. That somebody will be a tourist, who doesn't know the ticketing system, and will spend 5 minutes trying to figure out what to press. It isn't necessarily a language issue, each city has different ticket types and rules which a stranger has to work out. I know in Paris I need a "t+" ticket, but newbies don't.

Example 1: Paris Gare du Nord. Person in front is trying to stick their credit card into the banknote reader slot. Eventually they give up, get out some cash and try to stick that into the credit card slot, equally unsuccessfully. They give up, walk away swearing about the §#ç~ing machine not working.

Example 2: Switzerland. Tourist trying to stuff their credit card into the correct slot, but the machine does not let it in. Give up, walk away. Then I spot the problem, they hadn't pressed any buttons to select a ticket. In a fast food joint, do you hand over your card and pay before telling the server what you want? No - choose first then pay.

Rule: Walk past the first machine till you find an empty one, or one with a local in front.

Something I discovered about the Louvre and crowds is that the majority of visitors trample their way to the big sights -- Mona Lisa, Winged Victory, Venus de Milo -- and totally ignore the rest of the museum. My wife and I enjoyed the better part of a day in the Ancient World wings and barely saw another person. Their collection of Greek and Egyptian artifacts is second-to-none and I felt was far more interesting than yet another painting of The Virgin + Kid. In fact, the only part of seeing the Mona Lisa i enjoyed was watching people fighting their way to the front of the scrum just so they could take a selfie with the damned thing without ever actually looking at it.

Also, the Armee Museum is a totally overlooked gem if you're into military history at all. Even if you're not, it's still pretty fascinating, especially the WW2 displays (I personally liked the WW1 exhibits better, but that's my preference). My wife, who cares not a whit about military history, said she really enjoyed the uniforms.

-- Mike Beebe

Big Mike! Love your Trip Report! Thanks for taking the time to let us know how it went. I so agree about the Army Museum. My favorite display was the Parisian Taxi used to get guys to the front in WWI. Amazing.

~Pam, from small town N Idaho where rush hour is a loaded log truck and 3 pickups.

Isn't that the truth! Last time I was in the Uffizi there were so many people just taking pictures of the paintings! I wondered if they ever actually LOOKED at them. I agree about the Louvre. I spent an hour in the medieval section & was about the only person in there.

Glad you enjoyed your trip, too. Paris is my favorite city in Europe (so far)!

....where I'm from the wait people call you "baby," "sugar," and "honey." .... If a Parisian waiter did that, he/she would be fired on the spot. They are not there to be your friend, buddy, or suck up for a tip. They provide service quietly and efficiently with min discussion. Did anyone come by and asked, "How is your dinner?" Of course not. I do not need or want a chatty waiter.

I have a wonderful photo of a highly made-up (makeup) woman grinning into her camera on a selfie stick, with Mona right beside her, so Mona not even in the frame.
Why bother.

Hey what the heck with the no bathroom situation in Paris? Good Lord. The two toilet areas near ND were closed. The one we finally found at the Louvre was closed. The rare ones on the street had ridiculous lines. One day we went from noon until almost 8 p.m.without a bathroom break! I took Rick Steve's advice and walked into a cafe but they asked if you was a customer so much left. We did sneak into a McDonald's toilet in the Left Bank thank God.

Not suggesting wait people call me "sugar." It's just the aloof demeanor, especially compared to Ireland and Scotland where the folks were professional and warmer, or kinder. Warmth and professionalism are not mutually exclusive.

Frank sorry didn't mean to offend.

Mike,
At the risk of generalizing a bit, Europeans tend to reserve the bulk of their warmth for close friends, family, and people they're intimate with. They are cordial and polite with strangers (although some may seen a bit curt) but not immediately warm, as you would like. They open up with time and as you get to know them, but not immediately (you may find it odd but they consider an overabundance of American friendliness and smiling to be over-the-top and even fake). The beauty of travel is you get to see these cultural differences and learn not to expect or hope that things are exactly as they are at home. The concept of "warmth" itself is interpreted or weighted differently depending on where you are - it depends what cultural lens you're looking through.

Regarding the bathroom thing, again they may not be as ubiquitous than you're used to. But every guidebook will tell your to step into a cafe, buy a cheap drink, and just use their bathroom. No don't need (or want) to get a urinary tract infection from waiting all day.

I enjoyed this trip report immensely. I am curious about the rush hour packed crowds on the métro; what time do the packed cars abate? In midtown Manhattan, the crowds begin to thin after 9:30.

An ATM near the Louvre ate our card.

Mike, do you remember which bank's cash machine did that?

Mike,

Thanks for the entertaining trip report. I'm glad "threw punch at scam artist" did not appear in it! I, for one, have to say I kind of enjoy your wide-eyed honesty when expressing your thoughts on things like Paris waiters. I had nothing but good experiences with them, but I tend not to frequent places where I'm called "sugar" (though there are plenty of those places here in the Upstate of South Carolina).

I had my primary travel debit card (Schwab) eaten by an ATM in Krakow. I had to resort to my backup (BB&T), with its ridiculous transaction/currency conversion fees. I was glad to have the backup, though.

the culture is different the French see it as superficial the smiling American stranger

If you were at the Armee Museum, you must have seen the special exhibit still going on, "Napoleon as Strategist." That was the special feature, well worth visiting since this special exhibit was reported on the French news on TV as a suggested place to see as to it elaborate displays, etc. Lucky I saw that news bit, it gave me more incentive to see special Napoleon exhibit. When I went in May, the Armee Museum was not crowded either but still well attended.

When my mother was in the hospital a few years ago and it was time for her to be given the medicine, the young blonde nurse came in and said, "Time to take your medicine , sweetie." I couldn't believe she said "sweetie." I hadn't heard the word used like that in years, sounded like back in the '50s, really "down home," and thought it was very nice her saying that to my mom of 91 years. That nurse had to have come from the South. I thanked that nurse

@ Mike/WV...There is a well frequented restaurant in Berlin serving traditional German cuisine where the owner comes around to each table at least once to ask how the food is, etc. She makes it a point to engage in some sort of conversation, however perfunctory, with the guests. If the guests can speak German, then she speaks German. Most of the international patrons speak English with her. The point is that you as the guest are NOT left ignored after your order has been taken.

Continental, the spam in a can packed. Metro was a Friday around 2100. We avoided the rush hour times 1600 to 1800. Sorry can't remember ATM name but there were Parisians behind us waiting to use it. Looking back we could have walked more as opposed to the metro. It can also get rather, um, pungent when it's a warm day.

Fred yes that was an awesome and informative exhibition on Napoleon. My wife commented on his very handsome looks in one of the paintings.

That was a fun read thanks for posting. When we were in Paris I thought it was good for my kids to see how different cultures react. While Americans are very friendly we found people in Paris very polite and quieter. Not bad just different.
Loved the public transport musings.!

On Napoleon's looks...the painting of him (wearing no hat) carrying the flag at the battle of Arcola in 1797 to get across the bridge in face of Austrian volleys when he was 27 is one of the youthful paintings or the one with Malmaison in the background when he was 30.