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Paris, Normandy, The Loire - Sept. 2015

Greetings fellow travelers!

We are back home after our 16 day trip to France! Thank you all for the excellent advice and help - our trip was fantastic and a bit fattening. :0)

First tip I learned, never book on Air France if you can avoid it (especially when it is a code-share with Delta). We were not allowed to purchase economy comfort seats and also were not allowed to check in 24 hours in advance on the trip home since the first leg was an Air France hopper from Paris to Amsterdam. Pretty stressful….lots more issues but to continue on to the good.

Arrived safe and sound and checked into our hotel in the 7th arrondissement in Paris, Hotel Saint Beuve. This hotel had excellent service and breakfast, great location and the usual small rooms and baths Paris is noted for. Really enjoyed the location. Had a quick nap, freshened up and enjoyed dinner near Luxembourg Gardens at Fuxio Italian (chain - but great food with vegetarian options). Walked and enjoyed being in Paris!

Next day, visited the Cluny Museum. It was amazing, especially the building itself and the beautiful Unicorn Tapestries, great advice to see this this place. Then we walked to Les Invalides and visited Napolean’s Tomb and the military museum. Walked back to our hotel through gorgeous Luxembourg Gardens for a break. Dinner at a nearby Creperie. It was close to our hotel and had delicious savory and dessert crepes, yummy! Were picked up for our Midnite in Paris car tour in a restored Citroen. What a fun time, we were driven all over the city with champagne being served, stops and stories about Paris; ending at midnight with the last of the champagne while the Eiffel Tower twinkled behind us. This tour was a splurge but well worth it.

Got up early (for vacation) and met up with the Paris by Mouth food/wine tour guide, Sara. Small group of 7; 4 hour tour. Focused on the Saint Germaine neighborhood. Got to sample macaroons (Pierre Herme) - how have I missed out on these in previous visits?! - pastries, 8 kinds of cheese, multiple wines and meats for those who enjoy that. Was an excellent and informative tour, another good investment in our opinion. Our son and his GF arrived in the afternoon - had dinner at a local pub (OK food) and walked all over ending up at St. Chappelle for the evening concert. The concert was great but to be honest we were pretty tired and the two musicians played very calming type music so was a bit hard to stay awake towards the end. It was also pretty dark by the 8:30 concert so not much to see as far as the stained glass. Glad we did it though, cool experience. Tip: Try to go to earlier concert and see windows while still some light outside - we were worried about time kids would arrive so opted for the later concert.

Next day: Hubby and I went on the tour of the Palais Garnier Opera (purchased tix ahead of time on Viator). It was wonderful to skip the long line and go right in and the tour was quite good and a reasonable cost. We were able to hang out there afterwards as long as wanted - what a beautiful and fantastic experience. We absolutely loved it! Met up with son and GF, did some shopping, lots of walking, bought more macaroons and arrived at the Eiffel Tower by 7:45 for the 8:00 tix to go up. Wonderful experience - the GF had never been up so it was fun seeing it anew through her eyes. Walked back to hotel and stopped for more yummy crepes as we had missed dinner. This trip we walked almost everywhere and did not use the Metro as much as earlier trips.
 

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Another beautiful day in Paris: Visited the Rodin Museum (even though I was warned) it was still disappointing that the only indoor exhibit was so small - they are refurbishing this place. The gardens were nice though. Walked over to the Jaquemart-Andre Mansion/Museum - wow! Loved this place, the art, the architecture, the history and the wonderful little cafe where we had supremely delicious coffee and pastries. Their gift shop was awesome too, found cool gifts for my girlfriends. :0) Feeling energetic, we walked over the Orangerie. We were so shocked and disappointed to find the Waterlillies exhibit was closed. My fault for not doing better research. Back to hotel for a break (I needed it after 3 museums let me tell you!). Joined up with the kids to visit Montmartre and Sacre Coeur cathedral. Had dinner at a touristy place up there and it was actually decent. Took the metro home, had a nightcap and collapsed at hotel.
Our last day in Paris, the four of decided to visit the Marais neighborhood. We walked all over, visited Place des Vosges and the Shoah Memorial Museum. It was so weird to see armed guards all around the Shoah museum and we had to push a button to be allowed in. Lots of security but it was free and an awesome experience with very moving exhibits. Very worthwhile to us. Kids wanted to see the Louvre pyramid so we took some photos there, visited the gift shop and went back to our hotel. (We have visited the Louvre twice before so didn’t go inside this time.) Our grand finale was a highlight for all four of us: a dinner cruise on the Seine with Bateau Calife. Wonderful old restored boat, great food (even vegetarian option), drinks and company. Son even got to play piano downstairs, an 1890 Steinway!
Next morning we were off to CDG to pick up our rental car reserved ahead of time with Auto Europe. The car was actually through EuropCar and we did not receive the promised Mercedes mini-van but a crossover type Renault. It took over an hour with long lines to get the car - just saying. We managed to fit all the luggage in and headed out for Honfleur. Had lots and lots of tolls on the roads on the entire trip-carried a bunch of cash as we were advised here and made sure not to get in the pay line that showed credit cards. Thanks again! Arrived in Honfleur to the most wonderful hotel imaginable and the cheapest on our trip to boot! Hotel L’Ecrin is a beautiful old mansion furnished like Jacquemart-Andre with amazing, large rooms, decor and fantastic service! Close to town, could walk to almost everything. Only regret was just one night here. Walked to the harbor and just drank in all the sites and sounds, visited Saint-Catherine's Church-beautiful! Had a fun time hanging out at the hotel that evening playing Wizard, a card game we are all addicted to, lovely time.
When waiting to check out the next morning, one of the staff offered us a map and told us how to drive to see a beautiful view of the town and harbor and Notre Dame de Grace church (such great service). We followed this most excellent advice and were so glad, it was well worth a short detour before leaving town. Drove to Bayeux to spend the next 3 nights at Domaine de Bayeux hotel. Large beautiful rooms and the most awesome breakfast (actually included in cost) of the whole trip. After check-in we visited the Bayeux tapestry and explored the town. Most shops and many restaurants were closed as it was a Sunday. Yes, more Wizard playing time with the kids! :0)

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The weather to this point was beautiful. The next morning saw a change. For our D-day tour with Bertrand, Executive D-Day Tours, it was blowing sideways rain and cold. We saw many sites this day including St Mere Eglise, Omaha Beach, Utah Beach, bunkers, hedgerows, the German Cemetery and the American Cemetery. I can’t lie, it was a bit difficult dealing with driving rain and wind (umbrellas all inside out) even though I am an Oregonian and used to rain! The tour was a great over-view.
Against the advice of the tour guide and others, we decided to visit Caen the next day. The D-Day museum there is the best we saw IOHO. We spent a few hours there and never even saw it all. Highly recommend this place! We then checked out Caen castle - amazing - and did a bit of shopping and had dinner there. Don’t know why Caen isn’t more recommended, we really enjoyed it there.
The next morning the weather cleared a bit and we drove back to the American Cemetery to tour the Visitor Center. Great, although sad and sobering, exhibits there. Interesting that it is owned by the USA and maintained by us as well. The cararra marble that the crosses are all made of shines and sparkles like diamonds in the light. Such a beautiful yet heartbreaking place we will never forget. On to Mont St Michel.
I was worried about the parking and luggage toting situation staying on the Mont but the advice here was so helpful. We all took small bags for our overnight stay and the rental car was parked in a special coded lot that was secure. We left the large bags in the car. What can I say about the Mont? The only word that I think fits is magical. Especially in the evening after the crowds are gone and it is all lit up. Such a special place and I am so glad we stayed there. We stayed at Hotel Auberge Saint Pierre and it was great! Out rooms were good-sized and had fantastic views of the water as the tide came and went. Just loved this place! The restaurants leave much to be desired but that’s not why we were there anyway. The Abbey was interesting and I’m glad we saw it, but honestly, it was just so crowded with huge tour groups it was difficult to appreciate and it didn’t help when the rain began pounding down so hard it created actual cascading falls on the stairs. Somewhat challenging, had to keep the sense of humor and not worry about being drenched.
Next day we had a good breakfast at a boulangerie, did a little shopping and headed for the car and Amboise - chateaux country! Checked into our second favorite hotel, Le Manoire Les Minimes. What a beautiful place! Great big rooms (we were in the main mansion), views of the Amboise Castle and the Loire River from our windows, sitting areas and wonderful location to walk everywhere in the old town of Amboise. Highly recommend this place. After checking in we walked around the town and had a nice Italian dinner on the main square under the castle.
Next morning we were picked up by our private guide, Stefanie, of Odyssee en Val de Loire. She was so worth the money, what an amazing guide and person! We visited Chambord, then stopped and tasted the local cookies and wine; on to a wonderful lunch at a local golf course, then to Chateau de Chenonceau, the “ladies castle”, and finally, a small family owned local winery, Gaudrelle Winery in Vouvray for a tour and wine/sparkling wine tasting. What a fantastic day! The chateau were so beautiful and amazing and we loved the local places. Stefanie is certified and was able to actually guide us inside the chateau, not just drop us off and pick us up. Highly recommended guide!

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Next morning we had to visit Villandry - the gardens are so amazing! Then drove back to Amboise and visited the castle there. It was so cool and interesting and the views were amazing! It was Patrimony Days in France so they had lots of actors dressed up, parading around and performing old time dancing, really cool. The chapel holding Leonardo Da Vinci’s grave was so beautiful. We loved this castle/chateau. While we were here the kids visited Clos Luce, Leonardo’s last home. From the sound of it, the Castle is the better choice if you only have time for one of them. Forgot to mention, the best breakfast in Amboise was at Mrs. Bidot, a 5 minute walk from the hotel. Yes, Mrs. Bidot appears to be only a chocolate/pastry shop but in fact is a restaurant further inside with the most delicious breakfast ever! We ate there twice and also bought chocolates and pastries. :0)
Last day of our trip, drove to Orleans where Joan of Arc reigns and visited the cathedral and old town - really cool. Then on to Gare du Nord (what a stressful and tense drive on a Sunday evening, NOT fun) to drop off the son’s GF for further travel and to CDG to return rental car and check in at Citizen M hotel (terminal 3) for some rest before an early morning flight home. What a great trip! I cannot thank you all enough for the help and advice!