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Paris in February Trip Report

Warning: this goes on for a while. I’m recently returned from a solo trip, 10 days in Paris and 10 days in Amsterdam. BTW, I like winter travel for fewer fellow tourists and have done off season travel for decades. (I’m posting a separate Amsterdam trip report.)

I used to do solo travel almost exclusively because you know, I wasn’t sure I was one of those ‘tour’ people. But then I signed up for the RS Barcelona Madrid tour in 2014 with 2 extra days in Barcelona solo and another week in Madrid on my own at the end. I found it was a richer experience to have all the information from knowledgeable guides who could communicate so much about their country and answer any questions that come to you for the length of the tour and then at the end, be able to spend hours in art and history museums on my own.

That became my new travel model through 11 more RS tours, all but 2 were solo. But I was sort of coming to the end of my wish list of tours and decided to go back to a 3 weeks solo and city intensive trip. Through the years I have figured out that 3 weeks is about my sweet spot, longer than that leads to sensory overload and I start really missing my husband and I come home sort of frazzled. Ive been lucky enough to be traveling 2-3 times a year since Covid.

I did wonder how it would seem to be completely on my own again for that length of time. I’m pleased to find I slipped back into the solo experience just fine and enjoyed myself quite a bit.

Phone: I used Consumer Cellular international service and it worked great. This is the 3rd or 4th time with them overseas and I’ve been pleased every time. I’m extremely phone dependent for navigating and looking stuff up while I’m out and about, so it’s a huge relief to have something that works. I used 8GB and it cost $26.

Hotels: I stayed in Hotel Muguet in Paris. This is in the 7th and is a Pam recommendation and I really liked the hotel. Thank you, Pam! Very friendly, very safe and secure vibe. Always someone on the desk 24/7. I shamelessly dropped Pam’s name when I was checking in and the desk man definitely remembered her and gave me an upgraded room! I figured it was because of the association but I got upgraded in my Amsterdam hotel too so I think it is probably because it’s February and they are in offseason and I was staying 10 days, which surprised both desk people as they checked me in. I didn’t do their breakfast so can’t comment on that. I will definitely go back.

I don’t tend to eat at out at specific planned restaurants very much with the exception of Le Florimond, where I went twice. So good. I’ve been there 4 or 5 times over the years. I frequently would get a croque madame with tea in a cafe or quiche in a museum cafe for a late lunch and then buy a sandwich along the way to eat later.

I was in Paris Feb 2-12. I love Paris and it had been way too long since I was there. I told myself I would relax and walk a lot and spend hours in my favorite museums and that’s what I did. I got a Navigo easy pass for the metro. And it was easy to buy, to use and to reload. I bought the Carte Blanche pass, 52€, for the Orangerie and the Orsay. And I bought the year pass, 90€, Amis du Louvre.

Both of those lets you enter the museums without a timed entry. It really changes the way you think about going to museums. It’s not as sweet as the old days with the museum pass but it’s something I’ll do from now on when I go to Paris. I went to the Louvre 3 times, the Orangerie and the Orsay twice for each. I did NOT worry if the passes paid off or not, for the way I do museums having ‘free’ access is worth it to me. Very sweet to just walk in past the line when you decide to go.

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Continued:
I also went to the Rodin, the Musee de Armee, which included a visit to Napoleon’s tomb and a new exhibit to me, the Order of the Legion of Honor. The Marmottan is probably a place I will visit every time, it was great to see it again. I went to the Petit Palais, the Cluny, Saint Suplice, Saint Germaine des Pres, and Bon Marche and their food extravaganza, the La Grande Epicerie. I had a great late lunch there.

I went to Sunday mass at Notre Dame and then toured it afterwards. Wow, is it even more beautiful now. Both of those things were real events for me. However, there were many, MANY people there. Actually it was the most thronged with bodies of any place I went to in Paris. It may have been better to have gone during the week.

I also did a Paris by Mouth food tour I very much enjoyed. It was their West St Germaine food tour. I did it on Saturday afternoon, started about 3:30 and went 3 hours and believe me, I didn’t need dinner that evening! The food and the guide were terrific.

New for me this time, I went to the Art and History of Judaism Museum, and the Resistance Museum. Thumbs up for both, all though the Judaism museum needed more English signage. And one of my favorite things was going out to The Grande Arche for the first time! It was really cool seeing it, walking the area and being amazed at the size and the beautiful (to me) design. It really made me want to do some research about it and I saw later in my trip there is a movie about it that is fairly recent. I think I’ll have access to stream it later in March.

There was a lot I didn’t get to on this trip, like going up to Amiens to see the cathedral, but I came into this trip with thoughts of relaxing and enjoying and not to try to fit that one more thing into the day. I can and will be back.

Crowds were definitely more than my previous winter trips over the last 20 years, but not bad at all. The Louvre was pretty full but only in the places everyone feels they have to see, otherwise in the Northern Europe area, the Rembrandt and Vermeer’s, the Assyrian sculptures, the Cour Marly, French sculptures; visiting ‘my’ Louvre was very nice. I tracked down Pam’s favorite, a beautiful rock crystal vase, dating from 1147 and probably much earlier, that was owned by Eleanor of Aquitaine. I read a biography of her years ago and she was amazing. I didn’t know that beautiful piece existed before reading about it in a trip report from Pam so it was really a kick to see it in person. There are certain things that I have to visit, like seeing an old friend, and it was wonderful to be able to ramble around the museum and do it again after 6 years. I do have more thoughts on the state of the museum but won’t over do this already overlong report.

If you are still here after this marathon, please ask any questions you have.

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2447 posts

A wonderful trip report and Paris is always so beautiful and so much fun. I will bookmark this, especially for the hints about how to visit the museums more than once like we used to do with the museum pass. I miss those days. I wonder if sales have come down since they got restrictive. Thanks for taking time to do a trip report and I didn't think it was overlong at all.

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16754 posts

Wow, what a fun time you had! Thank you so much for taking the time to post. You know I love to read Paris Trip Reports.

Thank you so much for the shout-outs, lol! I will shout back and say it took me 2 tries to see the sculpture in the Louvre that you recommended to me, the Tomb of Philippe Pot! Thank goodness for that Amis card because I first went on a day when that gallery was listed as open but it was not. 2nd try, worked very well! Isn't Alienor's vase fabulous? Oh wow....I want them to install a ladder so I can get a good look inside it. Even holding my phone up to look down into it did not satisfy me!

I've walked by Le Florimond a number of times but have never eaten there. Another non-forum friend has recommended it so maybe I will make it happen this time. Do you have the cauliflower dish? Did you make a reservation or did you just drop in?

I'm sure you were upgraded because of the time of year AND your length of stay, not because the guy on the desk remembered who I was, lol!! I'm so glad you enjoyed the stay there.

I also love that you enjoyed the solo travel aspect again. I love that I can spend as much or as little time as I want in museums. I tend to lengthy visits and can poke around in one gallery for a long time.

Looking forward to your Amsterdam report as well!

Pam