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Paris in February Trip Report

Warning: this goes on for a while. I’m recently returned from a solo trip, 10 days in Paris and 10 days in Amsterdam. BTW, I like winter travel for fewer fellow tourists and have done off season travel for decades. (I’m posting a separate Amsterdam trip report.)

I used to do solo travel almost exclusively because you know, I wasn’t sure I was one of those ‘tour’ people. But then I signed up for the RS Barcelona Madrid tour in 2014 with 2 extra days in Barcelona solo and another week in Madrid on my own at the end. I found it was a richer experience to have all the information from knowledgeable guides who could communicate so much about their country and answer any questions that come to you for the length of the tour and then at the end, be able to spend hours in art and history museums on my own.

That became my new travel model through 11 more RS tours, all but 2 were solo. But I was sort of coming to the end of my wish list of tours and decided to go back to a 3 weeks solo and city intensive trip. Through the years I have figured out that 3 weeks is about my sweet spot, longer than that leads to sensory overload and I start really missing my husband and I come home sort of frazzled. Ive been lucky enough to be traveling 2-3 times a year since Covid.

I did wonder how it would seem to be completely on my own again for that length of time. I’m pleased to find I slipped back into the solo experience just fine and enjoyed myself quite a bit.

Phone: I used Consumer Cellular international service and it worked great. This is the 3rd or 4th time with them overseas and I’ve been pleased every time. I’m extremely phone dependent for navigating and looking stuff up while I’m out and about, so it’s a huge relief to have something that works. I used 8GB and it cost $26.

Hotels: I stayed in Hotel Muguet in Paris. This is in the 7th and is a Pam recommendation and I really liked the hotel. Thank you, Pam! Very friendly, very safe and secure vibe. Always someone on the desk 24/7. I shamelessly dropped Pam’s name when I was checking in and the desk man definitely remembered her and gave me an upgraded room! I figured it was because of the association but I got upgraded in my Amsterdam hotel too so I think it is probably because it’s February and they are in offseason and I was staying 10 days, which surprised both desk people as they checked me in. I didn’t do their breakfast so can’t comment on that. I will definitely go back.

I don’t tend to eat at out at specific planned restaurants very much with the exception of Le Florimond, where I went twice. So good. I’ve been there 4 or 5 times over the years. I frequently would get a croque madame with tea in a cafe or quiche in a museum cafe for a late lunch and then buy a sandwich along the way to eat later.

I was in Paris Feb 2-12. I love Paris and it had been way too long since I was there. I told myself I would relax and walk a lot and spend hours in my favorite museums and that’s what I did. I got a Navigo easy pass for the metro. And it was easy to buy, to use and to reload. I bought the Carte Blanche pass, 52€, for the Orangerie and the Orsay. And I bought the year pass, 90€, Amis du Louvre.

Both of those lets you enter the museums without a timed entry. It really changes the way you think about going to museums. It’s not as sweet as the old days with the museum pass but it’s something I’ll do from now on when I go to Paris. I went to the Louvre 3 times, the Orangerie and the Orsay twice for each. I did NOT worry if the passes paid off or not, for the way I do museums having ‘free’ access is worth it to me. Very sweet to just walk in past the line when you decide to go.

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Continued:
I also went to the Rodin, the Musee de Armee, which included a visit to Napoleon’s tomb and a new exhibit to me, the Order of the Legion of Honor. The Marmottan is probably a place I will visit every time, it was great to see it again. I went to the Petit Palais, the Cluny, Saint Suplice, Saint Germaine des Pres, and Bon Marche and their food extravaganza, the La Grande Epicerie. I had a great late lunch there.

I went to Sunday mass at Notre Dame and then toured it afterwards. Wow, is it even more beautiful now. Both of those things were real events for me. However, there were many, MANY people there. Actually it was the most thronged with bodies of any place I went to in Paris. It may have been better to have gone during the week.

I also did a Paris by Mouth food tour I very much enjoyed. It was their West St Germaine food tour. I did it on Saturday afternoon, started about 3:30 and went 3 hours and believe me, I didn’t need dinner that evening! The food and the guide were terrific.

New for me this time, I went to the Art and History of Judaism Museum, and the Resistance Museum. Thumbs up for both, all though the Judaism museum needed more English signage. And one of my favorite things was going out to The Grande Arche for the first time! It was really cool seeing it, walking the area and being amazed at the size and the beautiful (to me) design. It really made me want to do some research about it and I saw later in my trip there is a movie about it that is fairly recent. I think I’ll have access to stream it later in March.

There was a lot I didn’t get to on this trip, like going up to Amiens to see the cathedral, but I came into this trip with thoughts of relaxing and enjoying and not to try to fit that one more thing into the day. I can and will be back.

Crowds were definitely more than my previous winter trips over the last 20 years, but not bad at all. The Louvre was pretty full but only in the places everyone feels they have to see, otherwise in the Northern Europe area, the Rembrandt and Vermeer’s, the Assyrian sculptures, the Cour Marly, French sculptures; visiting ‘my’ Louvre was very nice. I tracked down Pam’s favorite, a beautiful rock crystal vase, dating from 1147 and probably much earlier, that was owned by Eleanor of Aquitaine. I read a biography of her years ago and she was amazing. I didn’t know that beautiful piece existed before reading about it in a trip report from Pam so it was really a kick to see it in person. There are certain things that I have to visit, like seeing an old friend, and it was wonderful to be able to ramble around the museum and do it again after 6 years. I do have more thoughts on the state of the museum but won’t over do this already overlong report.

If you are still here after this marathon, please ask any questions you have.

Posted by
2453 posts

A wonderful trip report and Paris is always so beautiful and so much fun. I will bookmark this, especially for the hints about how to visit the museums more than once like we used to do with the museum pass. I miss those days. I wonder if sales have come down since they got restrictive. Thanks for taking time to do a trip report and I didn't think it was overlong at all.

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16886 posts

Wow, what a fun time you had! Thank you so much for taking the time to post. You know I love to read Paris Trip Reports.

Thank you so much for the shout-outs, lol! I will shout back and say it took me 2 tries to see the sculpture in the Louvre that you recommended to me, the Tomb of Philippe Pot! Thank goodness for that Amis card because I first went on a day when that gallery was listed as open but it was not. 2nd try, worked very well! Isn't Alienor's vase fabulous? Oh wow....I want them to install a ladder so I can get a good look inside it. Even holding my phone up to look down into it did not satisfy me!

I've walked by Le Florimond a number of times but have never eaten there. Another non-forum friend has recommended it so maybe I will make it happen this time. Do you have the cauliflower dish? Did you make a reservation or did you just drop in?

I'm sure you were upgraded because of the time of year AND your length of stay, not because the guy on the desk remembered who I was, lol!! I'm so glad you enjoyed the stay there.

I also love that you enjoyed the solo travel aspect again. I love that I can spend as much or as little time as I want in museums. I tend to lengthy visits and can poke around in one gallery for a long time.

Looking forward to your Amsterdam report as well!

Pam

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434 posts

So glad you got to go on this trip! I did get some Google Translate fatigue at MAHJ but was very glad I went, too. And yay another Amis du Louvre card holder :)

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2093 posts

Thanks for sharing your trip report. Paris really is a perfect city to do everything or slow down and do nothing. And it's a great place to indulge in solo travel. Sounds like you had a great time. I'm looking forward to your Amsterdam report.

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11331 posts

Lyndash, I am glad you had such a wonderful trip ! It sounds like you really were able to have the visit you wanted to have. And you are obviously a smart cookie, listening to Pam on so many items !!!!

I am interested to hear about Amsterdam as I think I was there (for a much shorter visit) at the same time as you.

Thank you for this lovely write up !

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9493 posts

Lyndash, I enjoyed reading your report & picturing the relaxed pace you had to really savor Paris! Thanks for sharing!

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3333 posts

I'm always glad when Paris enthusiasts stand up for the museums. There's more than one way to skin a cat and get past the lines.

I also like that the Navigo Easy card can be recharged by the app on one's phone.

Curious that I used to stay near Cambronne metro and never came across Le Florimond; will have to correct this in future...

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132 posts

Very helpful report….especially about museums. Love your travel philosophy!

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132 posts

To consider for your next trip: Road Scholar took us to an early Friday evening concert at Sainte Chapelle. Many of us considered it a highlight. You may, too.

If you also like the more obscure museums, as I do, Arts et Metiers by the Metro stop of the same name. Ideal for off-season travel because it is not air conditioned. Not crowded either.


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11543 posts

Lyndash, what a great trip report! I will definitely be using this when I'm there in December. I love the idea of going there for 10 days and Amsterdam too. And that's a great idea about not worrying about the cost of the passes, but just the fact that you can go whenever you like. I will have to think about that for my next trip.

And I'm going to have to think more about going places in the off-off-off season. I have occasionally gone in March, but maybe even earlier. The one good thing about that is it's always going to be warmer than Duluth is, so I've got nothing to lose. 😂 😂 😂

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2997 posts

This sounds like such a fun and enriching trip, Lyndash.

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951 posts

Laurie Beth, you might want to look into the Passion Monuments Pass too. I decided against it this trip because of the museums I knew I’d be going to but if you are planning to see the museums it covers I think it could really be a good idea.

Pam, my first day at the Louvre the area with the Tomb of Philippe Pot was closed too. Grr… But better luck the next time. I love that piece, of course, but also that whole area of the museum is my favorite part of the L. The natural light from the Cour Marly is so beautiful. And I don’t know if you remember but in the book by Elaine Sciolino she wrote about Marshall Foch, from WWl, had his monument in the Invalides designed to resemble Philippe Pot’s tomb. I saw it again this visit to the Army Museum and it is really beautiful too. You can definitely see the resemblance. And you’re right, you can not see the top of Eleanor’s vase and I’m pretty tall.

Le Florimond is very close to the hotel. I did make a reservation, I walked in at lunch to ask for a reservation the next night and then I made another reservation for 3 nights ahead while I was there for dinner. It’s not very big and while only a few of us show up at 7:00, it doesn’t take long before they start filling up. I didn’t get the cauliflower, love the foie gras and duck confit however. My second meal was very meat centric too I’m afraid but I know they had some vegan things on the menu.

Have you been to that cafe, Les Parisiennes? It’s only 2 doors down from Florimond and is open all day. It’s not a fine dining experience, much more casual vibe but I really enjoyed my eggs Benedict the one time I ate there about 5:00. Of course no self respecting European would ever eat that early, but it was really a lifesaver that particular day. I expected to go back but it just didn’t happen.

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pbscd, I was glad I went to the Art and History Jewish Museum and it was one of the places that made me realize I really need to get a new phone without a tired battery. Doing a lot of google translate takes a toll.

And I LOVED the scrapbook from your trip to Paris with your daughter! What a sweet girl she is. My granddaughters are 14 and 16 so I thought all she did and wrote was wonderful. She’s a traveler now for sure!

Jean, I thought of you while I was in Paris and your recent thoughts on different travel styles as we age. I know you get it even if you might do things differently. It’s really not that I dislike going place to place every couple of days but I realize I really like diving into a city to see what it has to tell me. I think I like the energy that I pick up from city touring.

And yes, avirosemail, the Navigo Easy card was so easy to use. I was going to get the other Navigo card but somehow left my passport photo that I took especially for that purpose at home. But it was all ok. Of course if Paris would switch to credit cards like in Amsterdam that would be even better.

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Another advantage of the Paris Monuments Subscription is reduced fees on the Carte Blanche.

If you are a member of one of our partners, you benefit from a reduced rate on your Carte Blanche membership, upon presentation of your valid proof of membership. Find the list of our partners here.

Carte Blanche membership fees and options.

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434 posts

Thank you, Lyndash! She is a sweet girl. She loves history and literature so it was truly the perfect trip for her. We have a canvas print of an Eiffel Tower photo she took on the wall and the composite image with my grandpa and us up as well.

And yes Foch's monument was very impressive! I do love that tomb of Philippe . I was really disappointed the northern European art galleries were closed both days my husband and I visited. I think we're going on a Wednesday and Friday this next trip. And Amsterdam after that so I'm eager to read about that from your trip too. Though we got a big snow storm recently that made me glad we aren't traveling over the winter.

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386 posts

Lovely trip report! I especially liked the background you gave about your travel style as I am on a quest to develop mine.

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790 posts

Nice TR. Merci.

And, Lyndash, you mentioned

Eleanor of Aquitaine. I read a biography of her years ago and she was amazing.

D’accord!

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150 posts

Lyndash, thanks for your Paris report. I did not know about the Resistance Museum. I look forward to reading your Amsterdam report.

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834 posts

Great trip report!

We did that same Paris By Mouth tour last April on our jet-lag arrival afternoon. It was perhaps the highlight of our quick 3 days in Paris before leaving for the RS Belgium-Holland tour. Towards the end of our two-week trip, my wife asked me what I'd enjoyed most so far. I thought for a moment and the very first thing that popped into my head was "the cheese in Paris!"

Stephanie, our Paris By Mouth guide introduced us to five different cheeses, all "magnifique." Can't wait to go back.

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16886 posts

I did NOT remember that about Marshall Foch's tomb. I have both the book on Kindle as well as the Audiobook and have started re-listening/re-reading them prior to my next trip. I was going to the Army Museum gift shop to get gifts for my Great-Nephews. I'd seen they had the "cricket" noisemakers the Allied troops used on the DDay landings and did not get them last year but after I came home and told my brother he said I should have gotten them. So..going back this time for them and will look for Foch's tomb. ->Oh gosh, just looked at a picture of it and wow, how powerful. Added to the itinerary!

BTW, I thought that Legion of Honor area was quite interesting as well.

I've not been to Les Parisiennes but obviously walk by there multiple times per day, hahaha! I will look at the menu for Le Florimond closer to the time. My recall is that it's a pretty meat heavy menu but I will see if they have something that will work.

Louvre HINT for future trips: Contrary to what would seem to be standard and reasonable advice, I think the Louvre MIGHT be better on the weekends if you are not headed to the Mona Lisa/Venus de Milo areas. I've found that almost ALL the galleries are open weekends instead of the rotating and sometimes surprising closures during the week. I realized that my last trip when I was on the search for Philippe's tomb and got to it on either a Saturday or Sunday.

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434 posts

Our tour guide in Bayeux talked about the kids using the clickers after field trips. I knew it would annoy me to pieces so we did not get any for our kids!

Thanks for the Saturday Louvre tip! I've actually not been on the weekend before, but every other weekday they're open.

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32 posts

Thanks for the great trip report, Lyndash! I love your museum pass strategy.

I'm curious about your experience with the weather in February because I'm also contemplating off-peak travel. Was it warm enough to sit at an outdoor cafe? Stroll leisurely through a park?

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951 posts

Thanks to all the great responses. I think almost everyone loves Paris and are happy to visit vicariously.

Mardee, my ‘worst’ day, speaking as a wimpy Texan was the day I went to Haarlem. It was in the 30s all day. Probably people from Duluth would be in a light jacket! I’m getting the A’dam tr up soon I promise.

Jeanm, I did not know that about the Paris Monuments. Next trip I’m going to line up those sights but still will probably get the Carte Blanche. Thanks for the advice.

RJ, I really liked the Resistance Museum, it’s an interesting combination with also focus on Jean Moulin, who I did know about, and General Leclerc, who I didn’t know anything about. Their stories are fascinating. It’s very information intensive, lots of reading. Some videos but not a lot. You really get an insight into what the collapse after the invasion and the long years of occupation. I don’t think Americans really have a clue what that time was like.

Pam, I think you are right about the Louvre tip. I also think going late on their long days might be a good idea as well . I walked in about 3:30 one day and people were streaming out. I stayed until 7 something and was getting almost peaceful in some areas. I checked online to see their info on closed areas but they weren’t completely accurate at least one of the days I went.

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Currer, I did not think it was warm enough for me to sit outside for a cafe stop. But bear in mind I’m a Texan. I was perfectly comfortable walking around on the streets or in some green space, though. Other people were sitting out in cafes, not lots of folks but some. If they were doing those warming heaters, maybe I might have been tempted, but I don’t think I saw any of those this trip.

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3206 posts

The warming heaters have been outlawed as being bad for the environment, so you will no longer find those in Paris

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951 posts

Thanks Carol, I do remember hearing that sometime ago but I had forgotten about it. I’m thinking perhaps it’s the case in Amsterdam, too. I don’t think I saw any heater lamps there either.

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768 posts

Lyndash, how wonderful to have spent 10 nights in Paris, armed with the museum and transportation passes…knowing you could return later on the same trip.
A couple of comments:
Le Grande Arche- I/we made the trek to go to it…and were glad we did. One thing we didn’t do was walk up the steps for the view.
Le Florimond: lucky you, eating there 3 times. Four of us ate dinner there last summer drawn by “Grandma’s cabbage rolls” on the menu because DH is Polish. But we all agreed that the Lemon Soufflé dessert was the winner. We ordered 2 to share and would have gone back, but that was our last night in Paris.