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Paris, Burgundy and Provence July 2015

This is the trip report for our family’s first trip to France in July, 2015. There are four of us, including my husband and myself, and our then 21 YO daughter and 17 YO son. Only our daughter speaks French, so she was our designated interpreter for the journey. Of course, the rest of us learned the basic travel phrases, as well as the importance of greeting shopkeepers with a “bonjour madame/monsieur” when entering a store. Virtually everyone we encountered was polite and helpful, and some were quite friendly.

Day 1 Friday, July 17
Arrived at CDG at 2:25 pm. after an 8 hour flight from Atlanta. At the airport, we got money from the ATM and purchased our museum passes. We took a taxi into the city to Hotel Saint Germain at 88 Rue Du Bac. (All four of us and our luggage plus the driver squeezed into a Prius!) We were very pleased with the hotel. Not only was it very pretty, but the rooms were fairly spacious, with wifi, modern bathrooms and comfy beds, and most important — air conditioning! (It was sweltering during our trip.) In addition, the multi-lingual staff was very helpful throughout our stay. We dropped off our bags and freshened up before heading out. We got a late lunch at a bistro on the conner near the hotel — our first Croque Monsieurs! Then we walked toward the Louvre, soaking in everything along the way. After the Pyramid we continued to the Tuileries Garden, where we enjoyed not only the scenery, but also took turns getting cat naps under the shade of the trees there. Eventually we roused ourselves and continued our journey west toward the Eiffel Tower. As we walked along the Seine, we enjoyed people watching and seeing all the activity along the banks, particularly the boules games. We stopped for a drink at one of the cafes along the river before continuing our walk. By the time we reached the Tower, we had just enough time to get crepes from the stand at the base of the ET for our dinner. We were thrilled when the lights first began to twinkle. We finished diner in time to make our 11 p.m. Eiffel Tower reservation. We took the elevator to the second level. (This was the only time where I felt like we were in actual danger of being pick-pocketed, as we were smushed into the elevator like sardines. My husband and I had on money belts under our clothes with the passports, credit cards, etc. My daughter and I had on small cross body bags which we wore with the flaps turned toward our bodies.) After about an hour enjoying the view, we elected to walk down rather than take the elevator. At the bottom, we were all exhausted, so we took a taxi back to the hotel and crashed for a very good night’s sleep. 
More to follow.

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Day 2 Saturday, July 18 
After enjoying our hotel’s very good (and complimentary!) breakfast (coffee, juice, croissants and baguettes with butter and jam, yogurt in very cute little glass jars, fruit and cheese), we walked to Notre Dame, arriving early enough to walk in without waiting in line. We spent about an hour to an hour and a half. We continued walking to Saint Chappelle, where our museum passes allowed us to bypass the long entrance line. The glass windows were gorgeous. We got lunch at Cafe Bords de Seine, overlooking the river, and enjoyed more people watching and taking in the windows of the shops along the way. In the afternoon, we toured the Louvre, again bypassing the long entry lines by using the group entrance with our Museum Passes. We spent about 3 hours in the Louvre, hitting the big three, and spending a good bit of time among the Egyptian antiquities. We returned to the hotel for a nap before walking east to 16 Rue Princesse to Le Bistrot d’Henri, which was recommended to us by a friend. We enjoyed an excellent meal, and found terrific gelato just around the corner at Amorino for dessert. This area was great, with lots of open air street-side bars and restaurants and shops. We walked back to the hotel and again slept well.

Day 3 Sunday, July 19 
Breakfasted again at the hotel before walking to the Orsay Museum. We arrived about 9:15, just before the 9:30 opening, and were about 15th in line. It had begun to drizzle rain just as we arrived, so we were glad to get inside. We loved this museum, and spent the entire morning there. We had a pleasant, if expensive, lunch in one of the museum restaurants, before walking to the Orangerie to see the large Monet paintings. we enjoyed this museum a lot also, and also got to see a Rodin piece outside. Next up was a riverboat cruise on the Seine. Despite being warned off Bateaux Mouche by another post in the RS France forum, we ended up on the Bateaux-Mouche. (We were just too tired to keep walking to find another boat.) The idea of a Seine cruise is great, just pick another boat. This one apparently caters to tour bus groups, and the people on our boat thought nothing of talking loudly to each other and blocking the view to take LOTS of group selfies. 
After the cruise, we continued to Sacre Cour and spent about an hour admiring the view and people watching. There were a couple of guys who performed amazing acrobatic feats with soccer balls while balancing on the columns. As we were walking down back toward Montmartre, we were accosted by some very aggressive panhandlers who were selling string bracelets. They grabbed my son’s arm and hurled insults at us as we tried to pass. These were the only aggressive panhandlers we encountered on the entire trip. We took a taxi for the 6.6 km trip to the Rue Princesse area for dinner and ended up at a bistro on Rue Mabillion, followed by more gelato at Amorino. 


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Day 4 Monday, July 20 
Breakfasted at the hotel again before taking the fast train from Gare Lyon to Dijon. We enjoyed the scenery as we passed, and remarked that the farmland, hay fields and cows reminded us of home. We ate sandwiches on the train for lunch. After getting our rental car at the station in Lyon, we drove to our gite in the tiny, picturesque village of Volnay. We met our delightful host, Charlotte Buffet, to get the keys and take a quick tour of the house. The gite is in the heart of Domain Francois Buffet, and was wonderful for our family. We ate breakfast and dinner each night at the table on the terrace in the garden. It was quiet, serene, and very restful. The house has 3 bedrooms (with good beds), 1 1/5 baths, and a modern kitchen. There was even a washing machine, so we could wash a few clothes. Charlotte recommended several local stores in nearby Beaune, so after unpacking, we headed out to pick up some groceries at E.Leclerc, which is similar to Target. One of our adventures this trip was figuring out how to place our order for deli items such as cheese, meat and pate. (Just how many kilos of pate does a family of 4 need anyway?!?) The wine selection at the the store was very good (no surprise, being in the heart of Burgundy) and we got several locally produced bottles, as well as some of the local Creme de Cassis, which was excellent.

Day 5, Tuesday, July 21. 
We had arranged for an all day private wine tour with Max Erenau on Tuesday. Max and his English wife, Beatrice, operate a luxury hotel barge on the canals in the area. Max picked us up in his minivan at 9 a.m. and we set out for a fun and educational day of learning about viticulture. We drove length of the Route des Grands Crus, from Gevrey-Chambertin to Nuits Saint Georges to Santenay. We got to see some of the vines of many of the more prestigious winemakers, including Chambertin, Clos de Vougeot, Romanee-Conti and more. We stopped for private tastings at three domaines, and got to visit their caves. We also visited the Clos de Vougeout, a 12th century winemaking barn built by monks. Now a Unesco Heritage Site, it functions as an educational museum about winemaking, and is headquarters of the famous Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, of which Max is a member. We also stopped for a lovely poolside lunch. While not inexpensive, this was by far one of our most favorite and educational days in France. 


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Day 6 Wednesday, July 22 
We spent the morning touring and shopping in Beaune, followed by a very nice lunch at Le Caveau des Arches, which is in walking distance of the TA in Beaune. After lunch, we drove to Chateau Le Rochepot. There were a few other families there, but it was quiet enough that we could meander slowly and see everything at our leisure. On the way back to Volnay, we stopped for photo opps in several charming villages.

Day 7, Thursday, July 23 
We spent the morning in Beaune, followed by a private tasting and cave tour at Domaine Francois Buffet, with our host, Mark Buffet, who is the winemaker today. We walked down the street for a delicious lunch at Restaurant Le Cellier Volnaysien in Volnay, which is famous for its Coq au Van. After lunch, we drove to Fontenay Abbey and had the place almost to ourselves. We passed through many picturesque villages on the way to and from Fontenay, and stopped in a few to take photos and admire the architecture. 

Day 8 Friday, July 24 
Time to move on to Provence, although all of us could have easily spent a few more days in Burgundy. We packed the car and began the long drive to Avignon. Apparently, we should have expected that half of Paris would be doing the same thing on a Friday at the beginning of the holiday season. Needless to say, we spent a very long time on the road, and finally arrived in Avignon about 6 p.m., and easily found the B&B Place du Palais des Papes. I read about this B&B in one of my guide books, and it was a wonderful find. The location must surely be the best in Avignon, as the apartment looks out directly onto the terrace in front of the Palace of the Popes. In the evenings, we could hear the music outside through our open windows. On our arrival, our hostess, Sabine Ferrand, welcomed us and made us feel at home immediately. She made dinner reservations for us, gave us directions and sent us out to walk a short way into the square, where found ourselves in the middle of a large, ongoing street party. We did not know that our visit coincided with the theater festival, and so the entire area was wall to wall with theatergoers. There were musicians and street performers everywhere. We sat down at our table out under the trees in the square and enjoyed a cold bottle of local rose with dinner and watched the festivities from a wonderful vantage point. Performers from many of the shows paraded by. Among the more memorable were people in fish costumes perched on stools, and several people wearing nothing but large packing boxes as costumes. While Paris and Burgundy had been much warmer than we expected, that was nothing compared to the heat in Avignon. It was absolutely sweltering. The heat wave made our first night fairly miserable. We had the windows of our two rooms open and the ceiling fan on, but we were convinced that there surely must be lava under the floor.

Day 9, Saturday, July 25 
After a restless night, we enjoyed a very nice breakfast on the covered terrace overlooking the Palace. Our itinerary for the day included a drive to Senanque Abbey near Gordes, where there is perhaps the most famous lavender shot in Provence. If you haven’t seen it, it is worth googling. It is almost impossible not to get a frame-worthy photo here, especially in the early morning light. We arrived early, and so missed most of the crowds we had been told to expect. We were not able to go into the Abbey itself, because the dress code prohibits baring one’s knees and shoulders. Because of the heat, we were all baring knees, and I had on a sleeveless shirt as well. But we were satisfied after walking around the lavender field for a while and purchasing some lavender products in the Abbey gift shop. I also purchased a CD of the monks singing (imagine Gregorian chants), and it has become a favorite on my playlist. Unexpectedly, we passed many bicyclists on the hilly roads around the area, and admired their stamina.

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Next we headed to the charming village of Roussillon, which sits on one of the largest ochre deposits in the world. It is a quaint village with lots of cute shops. We had a pleasant lunch on the covered second floor terrace of La Grappe de Raisin, which had a misting system in the ceiling. This provided very welcome relief from the heat. My mozzarella and tomato salad was particularly good, as it was drizzled with an excellent balsamic vinegar, and my husband’s creme brûlée was served in a cute boat and was delicious. We bought several linen items in Roussillon, including a cover for our daughter's bed and some small pieces of pottery with hand painted lavender blooms. In the afternoon we drove to Pont du Gard. This amazing aqueduct was well worth the trip. The adjoining museum is excellent (and air conditioned). Who knew that the river under the aqueduct is a local swimming hole? We took a break on the shady terrace overlooking the river and enjoyed a cold rose. We returned to Avignon to explore and have dinner at another excellent outdoor restaurant recommended by Madame Ferrand. This time, we were amused by two of the servers who looked very much like actors Johnny Depp and Ben Affleck. They clearly were aware of the resemblance, and were playing it up with both their manner and attire. When we returned to Madame Ferrand’s for the night, we found that the other guests had departed, leaving us alone except for our hostess. This allowed us to open the doors to our rooms so that there was a welcome cross breeze between our rooms.
Day 10, Sunday, July 26 Arles. On our last day in Avignon, we drove south to the town of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. We arrived too late to see the bullfight there, but got to see the Mediterranean, as well as many of the beautiful white Carmargue horses. We had paella for lunch at an open-air restaurant. While the cuisine was so-so, the ambience was delightful, due mostly to a trio of patrons at the restaurant across the street from our table. The man was playing a guitar and singing, accompanied by his two female companions. We realized after a moment that they were singing in Spanish, and in fact, we thought that this area was more like Spain than France. We returned to Avignon in time to explore a little more, and had a final dinner at another of Madame Ferrand’s recommended restaurants — this time a short drive outside the ramparts of the city.

Day 11 Monday, July 27 
Sad that our journey was coming to an end, we returned our rental car and took the high speed train back to CDG. Our only trouble on the return journey was finding our reserved seats — 4 other travelers were sitting there, but they quickly and politely moved elsewhere — and getting off at the wrong station. On the trip from Paris to Dijon, the conductor had announced the stations several times. That did not happen on this trip, and we got off too early. Helpful TGV employees were on the platform, however, and helped us get on the next train about 10 minutes later. Lesson learned — next time we will find out ahead of time how many stops the train will make before our station.

Favorite souvenirs: tea towels printed with recipes for traditional French dishes, straw market baskets with leather straps (both my daughter and I use these almost daily), bottles of herbs de Provence, lavender sachets and oil, and my CDs of monks chanting (perfect for relaxing and falling asleep). We absolutely loved France, and look forward to returning in 2016, when we drop off our daughter, who will begin a French language study abroad program at the Sorbonne.

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5294 posts

Sherrie,
Thanks for sharing your trip report! I enjoyed reading it very much & even got some ideas for our upcoming trip!

I can't believe your stamina! It's hard to believe that you stayed up past 11PM on your day of arrival!

I guess it makes a difference because I fly from the West coast, and when I arrive in Europe, I'm totally exhausted!

Where did you buy the straw baskets with leather straps?

I just sent you a PM ;-)

Thanks again!

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10210 posts

Sounds like you really had a wonderful time -- and planned lots of wonderful things, such as the wine tour, found a terrific gite, etc. I'm sorry it was so hot -- but your phrase that "surely there must have been lava under the floor" in your B&B in Avignon did make me laugh!!

Thanks for putting together and sharing this wonderful and comprehensive trip report!

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11294 posts

Great report!

I took an nighttime cruise on the Bateau-Mouche in 1989. There were no selfie sticks then, but the rest of your experience exactly matches mine - huge tour groups all talking over the commentary when "their" language wasn't on the loudspeakers. Not fun.

So, yes, for anyone else reading this - do as Sherrie says and pick another boat. A Seine cruise is great, but the large boats aren't.

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483 posts

Sherrie, thank you for your wonderful and detailed report! It sounds like this was a fantastic family trip, and I really enjoyed reading about regions that we haven't explored yet. You've given me some great ideas for future travels. Our family was also in France in July 2015 and I agree it was truly a sweltering experience. The heat wave didn't diminish our enjoyment, but we were very thankful our hotels had air conditioning!

Laurie