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Our Christmasmarkt Blitz 2024

Back home from our eight day Christmas market blitz with three of my favorite, high-energy travelers. We all sing together, and one is the director. This is concert season, and we had exactly nine days off over Thanksgiving if we headed to the airport straight from rehearsal and got home with one day to spare (recover, plan next rehearsal, or cushion any travel emergency!) We also needed to begin our trip in Salzburg, where markets open a week earlier than most of the German ones. This was much speedier than my usual trips, and I wouldn’t have attempted so much so fast if I didn’t know each of these locations well. Bottom line: we played hard and had a blast!

Finished our rehearsal at 2 PM on Sunday before Thanksgiving and taxied out from ATL on Delta to Munich by 6 PM. Seats in Comfort, but that’s relative…. Nobody slept much. Landed at 9 AM, bought our Bayern Pass using the Deutsche Bahn app, took the elevator down a floor to the S/U-bahn station, and were on our way to Salzburg. We were traveling (relatively) light and had one train change on the way. Ready at the door for the exit, we weren’t quite fast enough leaping over the gap, and last one out got slammed by the doors closing. Kaboom! And there went her phone, six feet under, to the track below us! It landed safely between the rails, but too far down to reach.

Mary speaks respectable German, but the guy in the control booth’s only suggestion was to come back tomorrow as there was nothing he could do, with trains coming every two minutes. That wasn’t the right answer, so Mary found three guys in bright yellow ‘Sicherheit’ (safety) vests and explained her predicament. One located a long-handled grabber; they all met us at the tracks, waited for a break between trains, then grabbed her errant phone. We thanked them profusely, might have taken a selfie, and were soon on the next train to Salzburg. Disaster averted.

Salzburg

By early afternoon we had dropped our luggage at the always friendly Weisse Taube, my favorite hotel in the old pedestrian city, and were sampling gluhwein and checking out the market stands in what is blissfully uncrowded Salzburg Chriskindlmarkt on Dom on a weekday afternoon. Salzburg has the most gluhwein choices of any market I’ve visited. Especially love the ones made with white wine or Prosecco. Need to work up to the red, gradually. By sunset we were clip-clopping through town behind a matched pair of white horses driven by a young woman, the second generation of carriage drivers in her family, who gave us the highlights of Salzburg history as we rode along.

[In the US, especially in Atlanta and other hot, touristed cities, I am adamantly opposed to all forms of carriage horse trade, but in European cities like Salzburg the horses are obviously valued and well cared for. There is no comparison to how they are treated in Atlanta.]

Brats or schnitzel was a difficult choice for our first dinner, but both were outstanding at Zum Zirkelwirt. Glad it was a short walk back to our hotel; we’ve been awake for hours.

[In the old city of Salzburg there are relatively few restaurants, and if you don’t want more stand-up brats at the market, give your hotel a few days’ warning to find you a dinner reservation.]

Tuesday was our introduction to German breakfast - leisurely and extensive at the Weisse Taube, with good coffee and conversation. Our hotel is a block from the ice skating rink by the Mozart statue, where the kindergarteners skate in the mornings, pushing big plastic animals to help them balance. We started our day at the wonderfully-curated Christmas Museum by the ice rink, and made it to the Dom for the noon organ concert. On to the oldest bakery beside the water wheel for bread and cookies, through the famous cemetery with the Catacombs and massive Hohensalzburg in the background, into the tiny church in the cemetery, and then to the famous Stiftskirche St. Peter around the corner.

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St. Peter Stiftskulinarium, Europe’s oldest restaurant, is also on that corner. If you have dinner plans elsewhere, it’s a great afternoon stop for drinks in their festive outdoor area. They change the decor every Christmas, but it’s always pretty, and far from the crowds. We made a long stop, and lots of pictures.

That afternoon we shopped our way from the Grünmarkt (freshest pretzels) and the hand-made peppermint candy shop, to the market at the Sternbräu, then down the Getreidegasse to the shop with Czech rhinestone trees. Back to the Dom market for one last night, then dinner at Zwettler’s, my favorite restaurant. Schnitzel, Käsespätzle, and Kaiserschmarrn!! Oh my!

Regensburg

On Wednesday after breakfast we’re on a train to Regensburg. Staying at the Sorat, on the Danube overlooking the city, just a scenic walk across the bridge. Grateful to be arriving by taxi. Last time here I left a chunk of shiny, new, black rental BMW on a concrete pillar in their underground parking garage. This is a very nice business style hotel. I booked here months ago and may have upgraded, but our rooms have wonderful views across the river into the city.
https://www.sorat-hotels.com/en/hotel/regensburg.html

Over the bridge to a very late lunch of their famous tiny, smoky sausages at the Historische Wurstkuche, which also claims to be the oldest restaurant in the world. You can do takeout outside, but we opted for indoors, with tables, and heat. Our destination today is the Christmas market at the Thurn & Taxis palace. It’s dark by the time we are walking through the small city market on our way to the palace. St. Emmeram’s Palace is the residence of the Thurn und Taxis family. With over 500 rooms, it’s the largest privately inhabited palace in Germany. They offer interesting tours if you’re there during the day. This market has the most hand-crafted items I’ve seen at any market. The stands wind along lighted paths to the palace and fill the courtyard. This one is unusually pretty at night, with torches and open fires. Sometimes there’s live music. Many food choices in the courtyard. And there’s flaming gluhwein!
https://www.thurnundtaxis.com/experience/romantic-christmas-market

We were there on a night with a special lighting event. The blond Christkind angel came out onto the balcony and read a poem. We had been given white helium balloons earlier, to process around the castle when they doused all the lights and projected white polkadots onto the castle walls. We re-entered the courtyard, and after a blessing by the priest, and a countdown, all the balloons were released into the night, and the party resumed. This is one market that doesn’t end at 8 PM. I think they sell special tickets for those who are entering after 7 PM.

We were looking for a restaurant on our way back through town, and found L’Osteria serving pretty good pizza to a packed house after 9 PM. It was a nice break from brats, and we’ll be ready for more German food tomorrow. There are some lovely churches worth visiting in Regensburg, but if I return, I’m going to the Dackelmuseum - Regensburg’s tribute to all things Dachshund!

We started our Thanksgiving with the Sorat’s extensive breakfast, including Prosecco if you wish. We’re heading to Rothenburg ob d. Tauber, with three train changes. We’re using the DB app to buy all our tickets, but before I left home I printed out the train schedules for the likeliest stretches of time we would need to leave in the mornings, incentive to get us moving on time. Driving to Rothenburg would take less than half the time and much less hassle…but we don’t have a car….

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Rothenburg ob d. Tauber

Our first change at Nuremberg was easy. The stairs got steeper and the times shorter in Ansbach, and at Steinach, because of our late arriving train, we had 3 minutes to run down and up steep stairs and dash to our car to board, while being yelled at by the driver (whose train would be ending at Rothenburg!) All was forgotten after we made the ten-minute walk from the station through the magical Rödertor gate leading into the old city. We’re staying at Pension Elke over the family grocery store, a very simple place, but I’ve loved returning here for 20 years. (If you know this family, I’m sad to say Herr Endress’ father passed away a few months ago.)

Rothenburg was both magically decorated and empty of visitors on this chilly night before the market opened. We had dinner at Gasthof Goldener Greifen on the main square. I’ve had wonderful meals here in the past, but think the ownership has changed since two years ago. It was still friendly and good enough, but not like it used to be. They were closing early this night, and we were grateful to be getting Thanksgiving schnitzel anywhere. When we left, all the shops in town had closed, the rest of the visitors had not yet arrived, and we had the city, the Christmas lights, and the decorated windows all to ourselves. Magical!

We had three nights and two full days to enjoy Rothenburg - a true vacation! We were at the Käthe Wohlfahrt megastore when it opened…and got it over with. Found some great artisan shops on back streets and the antique shop where I find vintage stuffed animals. Shared a chocolate covered schneeball from Diller Schneebalentraume; one was enough. Discovered the Café Lebenslust (recommended by the owner of the Anneliese Friese shop) for coffee and hot chocolate. And were on the square for the festive opening of the market on Friday night.

Saturday’s weather was sunny again. We collected more gluhwein mugs and drank more hot chocolate. Listened to a children’s recorder group practicing in St. Jacob’s, then returned that night for an organ concert. (Almost as cold inside as out; everyone kept their coats and gloves on, and there were stacks of wooly blankets to take to your pew.) The castle garden was beautiful, and at Plönlein, Rothenburg´s landmark, there was no one else in our pictures. Never made it to the Nightwatchman’s Tour because we were enjoying long dinners at Gasthof Butz and tiny Alter Keller, both booked for us by Herr Endress.

We pretty much got all our shopping done in Rothenburg. Our packable duffels are now stuffed full of treasures, and nobody’s looking forward to shlepping all this stuff to Nuremberg on three trains in the morning. Although Herr Endress warned us a taxi would be very expensive, he made a call for us, and the offer we got was 200 euros! Deal! We were dreading even the walk back to the train station, and now for 50 euros each we could be driven door to door to our next hotel. Our driver couldn’t have been nicer, and the journey on back roads through frost covered fields and sleepy villages was beautiful. Best decision ever.

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Nuremberg

In Nuremberg we’re staying one night at the Hotel Victoria, a perfect location just inside the old city walls and a quick walk through an underground passage to the train station. https://www.hotelvictoria.de As much as I love the city of Nuremberg, I’ve vowed never to be here again on a weekend during the market. The crowds can overwhelm. We hoped by getting here on a Sunday when it opened, we would at least have three or four enjoyable hours to see it. As it turned out, it was so COLD that the huge crowds never showed up that day.

We ate our Nuremberg brats, bought Lebkucken and star gingerbread cookies at Lebkuchen-Schmidt, thawed out in a bookstore, then walked and shopped til we were frozen again. Returned to our hotel for their special gluhwein cocktail hour for guests, then went to the nearest Paulaner brewery restaurant for dinner. Freezing outside, and we want to catch an early ICE train to Munich in the morning.

Munich

Munich will be another one-nighter before we fly home. We’re staying at the lovely Hotel Platz, which is about a block from the Viktualienmarkt and a block from the Marienplatz, a great location. https://www.platzl.de/en

What we’re looking forward to most in Munich is meeting up with our German friend Magi, who sang with us when she lived in Atlanta as an au pair almost ten years ago. We all arrived at our hotel at the same time and headed into the Viktualienmarkt for Gulaschsuppe at the Münchner Suppenküche. Walked through the market on the Marienplatz on our way to see the animated Steiff windows at Galeria Kaufhoff, but we’re shopped out. With Magi leading the way, we zipped out by S-bahn to see the Ice Box Surfers in the English Garden, then walked back through the market at the Residenz. Had the most decadent hot chocolate of my life at a shop in one of the luxury arcades on that street. Popped into Dallmayr where they were serving samples of a beautiful purple gin made in Bavaria called The Illusionist. Ended our evening with a festive dinner at Altes Hackerhaus, where our server comically pantomimed his distaste at serving Magi (who had a two hour drive home) glasses of non-alcoholic apfelschorle.

Tuesday morning we were up in the dark for the quick walk to the Marienplatz station to catch the S8 to the airport, about a 35 min ride. We made it to MUC in plenty of time but what a mess at the airport. Delta check-in is upstairs, not on the ground floor as would be expected. We were in the priority line, so got through the Delta part quickly, but passport control was at near standstill because the automated readers were all stuck on spinning circles of death. The officers in the control booths sat with nothing to do because nobody could get through the control gates to reach them. One lone official was on the side with the growing lines of increasingly panicked passengers, and she essentially gave up. We made it to our gate as the buses were boarding to go to our plane, but with no coffee; not the best start.

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Wrap-up

Our Delta flight attendants on the way home were lovely, and encouraged us to write Delta to complain about their recent decision not to offer bottles of water. They don’t like that either. We knew ahead of time that we wouldn’t get much water so brought our own, but what a miserable 9+ hours it would have been if we hadn’t.

Most helpful apps were Splitwise Pro for tracking expenses, the Deutsche Bahn app for buying train tickets and finding schedules, and GoogleMaps for walking directions.

We brought three empty packable duffels (Eddie Bauer) amongst the four of us and filled them all by the return trip. We all packed fairly light and all agreed we would take even less next time. (I jettisoned my tall winter boots in Salzburg, deciding they’d been worn too many years and were no longer supportive enough, going to my short waterproof backup pair, proving one pair is enough!) I’ve made much colder trips to Germany than this one, but we were all glad we brought silk or thermal layers to wear under our pants. And our one traveler with a bright red down jacket was always the easiest to spot in a crowd.

We made a lot of stops for such a short trip, but the longer stay in Rothenburg in the middle was the most relaxing and helped us regroup. (We met travelers doing 10 city markets in 10 days, which sounded exhausting.) Of our five hotels, all were in great locations, four were more upscale business type hotels, but our simple, quirky B&B over the grocery store was probably everyone’s favorite. What a fun trip this was! Already thinking about where we might go next. Tschuss!!

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Great report!

Did all the lodgings have keycards you kept with you, or did you every have to leave room keys at the desk?

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Keycards at all the hotels; keys at the Pensione, but we kept those to also get us back in the outside door after the grocery store closed for the night.

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Excellent, enjoyable trip report. You packed a lot into your trip.

Schnitzel, Käsespätzle, and Kaiserschmarrn!! Oh my!

Oh my, indeed. Sounds amazing to this Austrian/German food deprived soul!

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I loved reading your report, thank you! We did the markets in 2022, in Salzburg and Munich. We adored Salzburg, and I agree, Zwettlers as well as Weisse Taube are wonderful! There is a cute little coat shop across from the hotel, did you see it? We all bought coats there on our trip. A bit hard to bring home, so we wore them, lol.

I am looking to go back for the markets this year, so took some notes from your report:)

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My husband and I did a trip like this about 10 years ago and loved it. It was fun reading your report. Thanks for sharing!

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Ruth, I think I would like traveling with you! And thanks for the mention of the carriage horses, I feel the same way. I was heartbroken in Egypt to witness the suffering of the horses (and Donkeys) there.

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Great report Ruth. I was wondering if you’d share the type of local, hand crafted things you all enjoyed at the Turn and Taxis market? I am often drawn to felted, carved by hand and blown glass things durning my travels.

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Ruth, thank you, my last Xmas markets trip was 2019, and I'm itching to return. I love R'burg! Your TR was fun to read and I could feel the excitement and energy! So happy the phone was rescued.Thanks for sharing, and Happy New Year's!

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Another great trip report and verrrry timely with me hoping to get a Christmas markets trip on our agenda. Many thanks Ruth!

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Lovely trip report! Makes me want to get on a plane right away!

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Loved your report! I'm cold now and need a hot cup of tea. You mentioned the dachshund museum. In London recently, my friend and I happened upon a dachshund meetup in Hyde Park. Hundreds of them dressed in brightly colored Christmas sweaters. It was a fun serendipity as we were planning simply to walk through Hyde Park to find the Speaker's Corner.

Glad you had such fun in your Christmas market blitz trip!

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Thanks for your writeup on all the fun stops you made in Munich and Salzburg. We'll be there next year for Christmas Markets and I'm taking notes. I hope we have half as much fun as it sounds like you did!!

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Ruth, thanks for taking the time to write this wonderful trip report. I almost went on a Christmas Market trip this year but am going to bookmark this for next year.