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Off the beaten path in Berlin

I was supposed to go to Austin for a work meeting Oct 21 - 26. It was canceled due to It which must not be named. My initial thought after the cancellation was the same as that of any clear-thinking Berlinophile... "I'm already scheduled to be out of the office. I wonder if I can find a cheap flight to Berlin." So I looked... and I found one... so... off to Berlin for a Kurzurlaub (short vacation/break). As an aside, airfare + lodging for Berlin < airfare + lodging for Austin.

I'm going to forgo my typical long-form trip report and just mention a few places I visited that have zero to minimal mention on the RS website.

Bad Belzig

A search for "Belzig" on this site yields zero results. Bad Belzig is a town about 1 hour southwest of Berlin in the former East Germany. I enjoyed my few hours there quite a bit and would like to make it back some day for a more extended stay. It is in the midst of Naturpark Hoher Fläming. It has a great castle (with a 13th-century keep) that is still a living, breathing part of the community. It has an oddly-shaped church with a huge bell tower where Martin Luther preached on January 14, 1530. It has a cute old town with a number of half-timbered buildings. It has nature/bike paths that connect all the surrounding villages. It has a Therme. It has a TI staffed by an Englishman who is super proud of the area and who found himself searching for a forgotten English word or two to help a rare English-speaking visitor explore the area. He added my hometown to the page-long list of recent visitors to the TI -- all or whom had German postal codes.

Schmerwitz

At Schmerwitz, a village just outside Bad Belzig, one will find the workshop for Königsblau Keramik. I kind of love the pottery made by this company. The workers at the small workshop all have a history of addiction and are learning a useful trade. I speak German like a 3-year-old, and no one there spoke much English, but it was an interesting place to visit. The English speaker apparently was out of town! Adjacent to the workshop is a cafe that serves cake and coffee (and brunch on weekends). Nearby is the creepy Schloss Schmerwitz -- built in the late 18th century, used as Nazi youth military school during WWII, used as a Soviet military training facility postwar, and abandoned after German reunification. It is in the early stages of restoration (and is going to be gorgeous when restoration is completed).

Marienfelde Refugee Center Museum

The former village Marienfelde was incorporated into Berlin long ago and has a large facility that during the Cold War processed 1.5 million East Germans who immigrated to West Berlin. It provided refugees with documents, food and housing as they waited to be spread around West Germany. The main building is now a museum that documents the history of the facility. The exhibition has limited English, which is okay for me (though not ideal). The front desk person was unable to locate the English audio guide. One of the more interesting facts learned was that one of the administrators who interviewed refugees (including escapees) was a Stasi informant and passed on information gained from interviewees on how they escaped East Germany. The museum is free to enter. It will be of interest to hardcore Cold War history buffs, but certainly is not a "must see" (if such things exist 🙂). For a more recent history of the center, see this Medium article.

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Of course, I can’t pass up the opportunity for a self-deprecating humorous story with a heart-warming ending. I had a backpack on arrival at the museum and found the lockers. I put my bag in a locker, closed the door, and tried to lock the locker. It didn't work. I tried a few more times as a bemused German couple watched me. Finally, they pointed out to me that I needed to insert a 1 € coin in the locker. Oh yeah, I know these lockers! Silly me! I pulled out my change -- lots of 2 € coins and 50 cent coins. No 1 € coin. I tried the others, but none worked. The German couple continued to be entertained by the scene. I walked around to the front desk to get change. The front desk person opened the register -- no coins. She searched all over for a 1 € coin. No luck. Finally, the German man from the couple walks up, holds out a 1 € coin, and says, "A gift for you."

The 1936 Olympic Village at Wustermark

At the outskirts of Berlin is the 1936 Olympic Village. After the Olympics, it was used by the German army and then the Soviet army until 1994, when the Soviets vacated it. For years, the village was a favorite on "abandoned" websites like this one. Over the last few years, it has begun to be redeveloped as townhomes and apartments. It’s at a very interesting point right now. Crumbling ruins are still present, but so are renewed buildings that are a pretty good example of how a developer can turn boring, ugly Nazi architecture into desirable housing that is visually appealing.

Memorial of the Former Wehrmacht Shooting Site at Ruhleben Murellenberg

Once again at the outskirts of Berlin, there is the Mahnmal Ehemalige Wehrmachtershießungsstätte Ruhleben Murellenberg (translation above). It’s hard to find much English info on this installation, but it is a memorial that consists of 106 road mirrors – some with words, some without – sprinkled throughout a forest near the site of an old shooting range initially created by the Prussians. The memorial is dedicated to the memory of over 200 Wehrmacht soldiers who were “victims of Nazi justice” and killed in the forest and/or on the shooting ranges for desertion. It’s jarring to take a pleasant walk through the forest and be confronted with something so unnatural – perhaps emphasizing that the killing of deserters in this forest was also jarring and unnatural. The shooting ranges are of interest themselves. The larger of the two is surrounded by rows of deep trenches, I assume to prepare WWI soldiers for trench warfare. As for the smaller shooting range, one end of it had what appeared to be a fort built by a group of kids. Here is one person’s trek out to see the memorial.

That's it.

Except for a random restaurant recommendation. My last night at my B&B was night #50 since 2016. The owner took me out to dinner with one of her friends. 1987 Xigon. A new hip, trendy Asian place with lots of young people taking pictures and videos of their food. Part gastronomy. Part performance art. Interesting place.

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Nice how you continue to find new places of interest!

Also, I can’t imagine why your work meeting was cancelled. Clearly the organizers hadn’t heard the Big C isn’t around in Texas any more. 🤦🏻‍♀️ Also, cool as it is, Berlin > Austin.

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My wife and I returned 3 weeks ago from Berlin. We found it a city of young people, American fast food and Vietnamese restaurants. We visited three large museums on Museum Island, and found two of them (names withheld) to not be worth the time to see.

We took the two hour train ride down to Dresden, and stayed 3 nights. Now that's one absolutely great museum town, and it's the real Germany. We loved the place, and will return in the future to see the rest of museums and the Saxony region.

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Thanks for the report on your new finds around Berlin—more for us to explore the next time we visit, which will be May, 2022. I love your spur of the moment trips from the east coast.

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Dave,
I enjoyed your report. I like your creative use of days out of the office, switching from Austin to Berlin. Always ready to travel at the drop of a hat!
The wolf in sheep’s clothing Stasi informant who interviewed East German refugees!

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My wife and I returned 3 weeks ago from Berlin. We found it a city of
young people, American fast food and Vietnamese restaurants. We
visited three large museums on Museum Island, and found two of them
(names withheld) to not be worth the time to see.

I guess Berlin is not for everyone, but I feel like it is a wonderfully German take on the concept of international city. Get away from the city center and it gets very German -- Potsdam, Pankow, Friedrichshagen. Heck, my walk from the Zoo Station to my B&B on Nürnberger Straße takes me through an incredibly commercial area, but I get to pass the popular Berlin Imbiss joint Curry 36, Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, Breitscheidplatz with its "meatball" fountain, the Europa Center (capitalist West Berlin's pride and joy), an enormous sculpture that represents the 4 post-WWII military zones of Berlin coming together to create a single entity, and Stolpersteine at the threshold of the building that houses my B&B on its 4th floor. As for Museum Island, it has never sounded interesting to me. I've been in one museum -- only because I was traveling with a friend was dying to see Nefertiti. He had some sort of spiritual experience; I was beating my head against Nefertiti's glass case until security threw me to the ground and told me to cut it out.