My husband Richard and I just returned from 2 weeks in Spain, where we visited Madrid, Barcelona and Sevilla. In each city we stayed in a budget hotel found in Rick Steve's Essential Spain book.
In Madrid we stayed in Hostal Gonzalo, which is very well located: an easy walk to and from the airport bus (5 euros in cash), near the Prado, Reina Sofia (home to Picasso's Guernica), and the Thyssen-Borbemisza museums. We walked all over the city, except for one trip to the University on the metro (a little confusing but not bad!) where we met a tour guide, Almudena Cros, who took us (along with one other tourist) on a fabulous walking tour of Spanish Civil war sites in Madrid (https://www.acrossmadrid.com/en/).
We loved staying at Hostal Gonzalo, which is run by two brothers who are very helpful and accommodating. It's on the third (we would say fourth) floor and served by a tiny elevator.
We took the fast train (on Iryo) to Barcelona (and then down to Sevilla and later back to Madrid) and it made me regret that the US has provided so little support to rail travel ion this country. What a great way to go between cities!
In Barcelona we stayed at the Hotel el Jardi, which was fine, although a bit pricier and less personable than either Hostal Gonzalo, or Pension Cordoba, where we stayed in Sevilla. Barcelona really is the city of Gaudi, and it was well worth touring some of his buildings. We visited the Sagrada Familia (which is not yet finished, after about 100 years in construction -- but soon, they say!) and Casa Battlo, a most amazing private residence.
The Pension Cordoba, where we stayed in Sevilla, was lovely! it's run by twin sisters, Maria and Ana, who were just wonderful, and near a number of tapas bars.
Big take-aways: social life is very important. It was wonderful to experience a culture where people and human connection is so valued. Every walk we took we wandered through public plazas, down pedestrian-only streets, and crossed avenues where pedestrians were given more than adequate time to cross the street (not true in Boston, MA!) In the morning we would see people washing the sidewalks in front of their businesses. Dinners and lunches were opportunities to connect with friends and eat at a leisurely pace. We loved it! And we were glad to be staying in hostals and pensions, especially because the first day we were in Madrid we came upon a demonstration against speculation in housing, with a focus on apartments that have been removed from the rental market and reserved for rentals to tourists, making access to housing for working people both more difficult and more expensive. I love staying in an apartment and going to the markets and cooking local food, but for the time being I may have to forego that pleasure.
Posted by
Colorado Mountains, USA
7937 posts
Isn’t October a great time to go? We went to Madrid, Basque Country, and Barcelona back in 2013. Not crowded, a little rain up north on a few days, but all-in-all wonderful. Sounds like it still is … thank you for your report.
Posted by
Reading, PA, USA
1637 posts
"regret that the US has provided so little support to rail travel ion this country. What a great way to go between cities!"
Remember that cities in the US are much farther apart and, when we did have good train service, we did not use it. Also, many Europeans today are budget airlines to travel between major cities.
Posted by
Twin Cities, Minnesota
1997 posts
What kind of weather did you have in October?
Posted by
OP
12 posts
It was very similar to weather in Boston (where we live) in both Madrid and Barcelona (maybe a bit warmer in Barcelona) -- and lovely in Sevilla, in the 70Fs. I had expected warmer overall, and ended up with sleeveless tops I did not wear. But with a sweater, always fine to eat outdoors!
Very little rain. I learned that the time zone in Spain is the same as in Germany (a relic of WW II) so it is dark at 8 am but also light at 8pm.
Posted by
OP
12 posts
Regarding trains, there are certainly cities on both coasts that relatively close and currently connected by less-than-excellent train service, and I think if it were better, more people would use it, especially since flying is increasingly like taking the bus, but with more security measures.