Travelling solo and using public transportation, I spent 18 nights on the ground staying in Milan, Ortisei in the Dolomites, Padua, Bologna (day trips to Faenza, Ravenna, Parma), Varenna on Lake Como (with a day trip on the Bernina train), and a final night back in Milan. I am a woman well into my 70s and a budget-conscious traveler.
All my train travel was on non-reserved regional trains. Where faster train options existed, it usually meant I would save less than a hour and spend more time in train stations between trains, so I stuck with the regional trains. I want to give a heartfelt thanks to Kenko for advice on navigating the transport strikes.
Flights and ground transportation
I flew economy on TAP airlines from Washington Dulles to Milan Malpensa with a couple hours layover in Lisbon in both directions. I was a little concerned based on some negative reports on TAP but my flights went smoothly. I had window seats with no one in the middle for 2 of the legs. I planned on carry-on but was prepared to check my bag at the gate if required – which did happen for Lisbon to Milan. Coming home, I took the offered option of a free checked bag the whole way.
I knew a couple weeks in advance that the Malpensa Express train I planned to take from the airport to Cadorna station in the late afternoon would be affected by a Trennord strike on Sept. 30. I bought a ticket ahead of time for the first guaranteed train scheduled for around 6pm. Not a necessary or particularly smart move because there are no reserved seats. Meanwhile, I stood in line for about 75 minutes for one of the alternative busses that Trennord operates from Malpensa during strikes. My train was not yet on the board at the point I was able to get on the bus, so I took the bus which had a seats for all passengers and place for luggage. The train ticket I had purchased was accepted as the bus fare on the special bus to Cadorna. Except for the long wait, it went pretty smoothly.
At the end of my trip, I spent a final night in Milan and returned to Malpensa on Oct. 18, another transport strike day but fortunately Trennord, which runs the Malpensa express, was not affected this time.
Milan: Days 1, 2, and 18
Milan Sleep: For my first 2 nights, I stayed at the Cadorna Luxury Hotel. I chose it for location – about a 10 minute walk to the Last Supper and about 20 minute walk to the Duomo, and for my nights it was considerably cheaper than nearby options suggested on the forum or in the RS book. It was clean, quiet, efficient, modern décor but no particular luxuary. It is on one floor of an old apartment building – more like a pension than an actual hotel. I only saw 5 other rooms but I read there are a total of 10. No breakfast but coffee and tea making in the room.
If I had returned for my final night, the same reservation would have been about 50% more expensive, and while I wanted the Cadorna area for my first night, Milan Centrale was convenient arriving from Varenna for the last night. Back in Milan for my last night, I stayed at Hotel Garda near Milan Centrale station. They offered a reduced price if you paid cash.
Milan Dinners: For the first night, I ate at Nico’s, recommended by someone on this forum and a 7 minute walk from my hotel. I had eggplant pizza which was very good. The place was low key and friendly. I did not have or need a reservation (it was a weeknight). There were a mix of Italian-speaking and English-speaking customers with some regulars warmly greeted on arrival.
The second night, I tried Miscusi, recommended by my hotel. I had low expectations when I saw it was chain with a choose your own pasta, sauce, and topping format but I was really tired, it was starting to rain, the restaurant was across the street from my hotel. It was not bad but nothing to recommend, in my view. However, they do have vegan and gluten free options which might be good to know.