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Northern Italy October 2024 trip report

Travelling solo and using public transportation, I spent 18 nights on the ground staying in Milan, Ortisei in the Dolomites, Padua, Bologna (day trips to Faenza, Ravenna, Parma), Varenna on Lake Como (with a day trip on the Bernina train), and a final night back in Milan. I am a woman well into my 70s and a budget-conscious traveler.

All my train travel was on non-reserved regional trains. Where faster train options existed, it usually meant I would save less than a hour and spend more time in train stations between trains, so I stuck with the regional trains. I want to give a heartfelt thanks to Kenko for advice on navigating the transport strikes.

Flights and ground transportation
I flew economy on TAP airlines from Washington Dulles to Milan Malpensa with a couple hours layover in Lisbon in both directions. I was a little concerned based on some negative reports on TAP but my flights went smoothly. I had window seats with no one in the middle for 2 of the legs. I planned on carry-on but was prepared to check my bag at the gate if required – which did happen for Lisbon to Milan. Coming home, I took the offered option of a free checked bag the whole way.

I knew a couple weeks in advance that the Malpensa Express train I planned to take from the airport to Cadorna station in the late afternoon would be affected by a Trennord strike on Sept. 30. I bought a ticket ahead of time for the first guaranteed train scheduled for around 6pm. Not a necessary or particularly smart move because there are no reserved seats. Meanwhile, I stood in line for about 75 minutes for one of the alternative busses that Trennord operates from Malpensa during strikes. My train was not yet on the board at the point I was able to get on the bus, so I took the bus which had a seats for all passengers and place for luggage. The train ticket I had purchased was accepted as the bus fare on the special bus to Cadorna. Except for the long wait, it went pretty smoothly.

At the end of my trip, I spent a final night in Milan and returned to Malpensa on Oct. 18, another transport strike day but fortunately Trennord, which runs the Malpensa express, was not affected this time.

Milan: Days 1, 2, and 18
Milan Sleep: For my first 2 nights, I stayed at the Cadorna Luxury Hotel. I chose it for location – about a 10 minute walk to the Last Supper and about 20 minute walk to the Duomo, and for my nights it was considerably cheaper than nearby options suggested on the forum or in the RS book. It was clean, quiet, efficient, modern décor but no particular luxuary. It is on one floor of an old apartment building – more like a pension than an actual hotel. I only saw 5 other rooms but I read there are a total of 10. No breakfast but coffee and tea making in the room.

If I had returned for my final night, the same reservation would have been about 50% more expensive, and while I wanted the Cadorna area for my first night, Milan Centrale was convenient arriving from Varenna for the last night. Back in Milan for my last night, I stayed at Hotel Garda near Milan Centrale station. They offered a reduced price if you paid cash.

Milan Dinners: For the first night, I ate at Nico’s, recommended by someone on this forum and a 7 minute walk from my hotel. I had eggplant pizza which was very good. The place was low key and friendly. I did not have or need a reservation (it was a weeknight). There were a mix of Italian-speaking and English-speaking customers with some regulars warmly greeted on arrival.
The second night, I tried Miscusi, recommended by my hotel. I had low expectations when I saw it was chain with a choose your own pasta, sauce, and topping format but I was really tired, it was starting to rain, the restaurant was across the street from my hotel. It was not bad but nothing to recommend, in my view. However, they do have vegan and gluten free options which might be good to know.

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Milan, continued Part 2 of trip report.
Dinners, continued: At the very end of my trip, when I stayed at Hotel Garda, near Milan Centrale, the hotel recommended an osteria across the street. This was a lively place with reasonable prices. I had pasta with shrimp and zucchini that was tasty plus a quite large mixed salad.

Milan Sights
My priorities were to savor the Last Supper and the Duomo with no pressure to pack in too much more.
I had an 11 am Last Supper with English tour ticket with instructions to arrive 30 minutes before. This experience did not disappoint! The tour guide mentioned that if we ever have an opportunity to come back, to try for a time when the sun is starting to go down for the best light and light most like what Leonardo intended. I don’t expect to return but thought I would share the tip.

I had some time to spare before the Last Supper, so I went to the Basilica di Sant’ Ambrogia which RS book describes as an art-packed church going back to early Roman times. It was near both my hotel and the Last Supper.

I had Duomo rooftop/terrace ticket for 2:30 which was another outstanding experience. I greatly appreciated listening to the RS Duomo neighborhood audio tour covering the rooftop, inside the Duomo, outside and nearby area (Duomo plaza, Victor Emmanual Gallery, La Scala). Fortunately, I had time between the Last Supper and the Duomo to run back to my hotel for my earbuds for the audio tour, and to pick up some vegetable focaccia for lunch.

After the Duomo area, I followed the suggestion on the RS audio tour for very high end window shopping in the Quadrilateral area. While I was not interested in shopping and I’m not very fashionable myself, I am somewhat interested in fashion and design as a key feature of contemporary Milan that I wanted to at least glimpse.

When I returned to Milan on my last day, I had time for one museum and it was raining too much to enjoy just walking around. I went to the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana art museum. I particularly liked the video that explains Raphael’s “cartoon” drawings for a fesco, and the Leonardo room.

Milan metro. When I left Milan for Ortisei, I took the metro from Cadorna to Milan Centrale, buying a metro ticket from a machine (with some help). When I returned to Milan at the end of my trip, I saw the signs for the credit card tap and enter option for the metro so I did that which was easy.

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Ortisei (part 3 of trip report)
Travel: I used the Trenitalia app, with Milan to Verano and Verano to Bolzano in one purchase. There was an Italo train from Milan to Bolzano, I believe, but it offered no advantage for my schedule. I took the bus from Bolzano to Ortisei. Travel went smoothly.

It was rainy or cloudy along the way but clear and some sun when I got to Ortisei. This turned out to be the best weather I had in Ortisei.

I stayed at Hotel Cosmea, near the center of town but on the other side of the road from the shops and bus stop. As the hotel advised, their sign was visible from the bus so it was easy to find. It is a smaller and less expensive hotel than the ones I saw suggested on this forum. Because it was the end of the season, they were totally flexible on cancellation policy and were no longer offering half board. The owners/managers were lovely, friendly, helpful, accommodating. They provided walking poles to borrow and took time to adjust them so that they were the right height for me. Because the weather was iffy, they made suggestions on my hiking plans. I was using Laurel Barton’s easy hike recommendations which my hosts very much agreed with. Because the weather was iffy, they also strongly suggested that I come back about noon the first day to check the weather update before heading out again. I had cold wet weather with low visibility, no sun, and some snow for 2 days. The snow was not in town but in the mountains and actually very pretty. I did enjoy some lovely walks and lift rides despite the weather.

Then, on the third evening, I developed a stomach flu or bug. Apparently, this is not uncommon. The hotel provided me with peppermint tea. I also had brought immodium and pepto bismo. Although their kitchen was officially closed, on my last evening, as I was feeling a little better, they offered to make me some clear broth with pasta noodles, which I definitely appreciated. Originally, I was only planning on staying in Ortisei 3 nights but because of the local transport strikes planned for Oct. 5, I extended my stay to 4 nights. As it turned out, although I just took walks in town on Oct. 5 because I was still not feeling well, I was really glad that I wasn’t traveling when I didn’t feel well. Due to the combination of wet weather, upset stomach, and potential bus service disruption, I didn’t get around to taking busses to some of the nearby towns as I had planned.

I did have a chance to enjoy other food before the stomach upset. I had a very nice wild mushroom risotto at Mauritz Keller, a restaurant recommended on this forum. I also enjoyed lunch or snacks in refugios on the trails. Near the tourist information office, there was an interesting special art exhibit by local woodworkers. The work was generally more sculptural and larger than the wood carved pieces in the local shops. I also had time to visit the local museum.

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Padua. (Trip report part 4)
Feeling better, I traveled to Padua. Originally, I planned to stay 2 nights but because I extended by stay in Ortisei to avoid travel on the Oct 5 local transit strike, I had only one night or about 24 hours in Padua. My priority was the Scrovegni Chapel for the Giotto frescoes. I had reserved tickets for 7 pm taking the double visit option. On some nights, you can reserve a double visit of 30-40 instead of 15-20 minutes and pay less than it would be for 2 visits. This was amazing, especially the approximately 5 minutes in between when I was the only person in the chapel. Decades ago, I took an art history course in college that focused quite extensively on Giotto so I really valued this opportunity.

Before my Scrovegni Chapel visit, I had time to walk around the historic center of Padua, using the RS book chapter as a guide. There was an outdoor art show or market near my hotel. A number of sights I might have been interested in were closed on Sunday late afternoon and/or on Monday but I knew that before arriving. I had planned to at least visit the Saint Anthony Basilica on Monday morning but unfortunately, my stomach upset returned and I wasn’t up for it.

Sleeping and Eating in Padua: I stayed at Albergo Verdi near the city center. It was very reasonably priced and a good location. Some restaurants I had read about were closed for dinner on Sunday. I ended up eating dinner at a lively interesting place called Peace and Spice that was near my hotel. It had Middle Eastern food with specialties from a wide range of national cuisines in the Middle East and North Africa. The wines were all organic. You choose either 3 or 5 dishes for a fixed price. Everything was very good.