Please sign in to post.

Northern Italy by Train and Bus

Our plan was to visit smaller northern Italian cities - most new to us. We traveled Mid-September to Mid-October, 2025. Here's a quick overview. We loved this itinerary - we are slow, relaxed travelers.

We used Fred Plotkin’s book Italy for the Gourmet Traveler as a guide/roadmap to search out lesser-known destinations with a focus on food. While it’s not a recent edition, the suggestions of “Classic Towns” to visit seemed interesting to us and gave us a taste of three different Italian regions – Veneto, Lombardy, and Piedmont. Fred has also collaborated with Rick Steves for a more updated but less comprehensive book titled, Italy for Food Lovers. We weren’t looking for Michelin-star restaurants but tried to find trattorias, food festivals, markets, and pasticceria's with a local following.

The train or bus trips between each city were typically two hours or less with some trips complicated by rail strikes - that happened twice. In one case, we were lucky enough to get a ride and in the other we took a FlixBus (not usually affected by strikes) but there were delays and it took 8 hours to get from Padua to Mantua. It was an inconvenience but it all worked out.

We flew direct Atlanta to Venice. From the Marco Polo airport we took a GoOpti bus for a short ride to Treviso (4 nights) – a small city known for canals, frescoed facades and tiramisu – reportedly first created here.

Then a short train ride to Bassano del Grappa (4 nights)– with wooden bridges and mountain views.

Onward to Chioggia – (3 nights) described as Venice’s “laid-back cousin” with fishing boats, colorful houses and excellent seafood…calamari and glasses of crisp white wine.

North to Padua (4 nights) next. It’s described as a city of art, students, and a great aperitivo culture. The Scrovegni Chapel was a highlight.

Then a little jog south to Mantua, (4 nights) where we ate pumpkin-filled pasta and visited Palazzo Te, the Ducal Palace and the quirky Virgil museum.

Cremona, (4 nights) the city of violins was next. It’s famous for Stradivari and music but also, torrone (nougat) and cheeses from the Po Valley.

We spent 6 nights in Turin, a place that we’ve visited before and very much enjoyed.

Our last stop was a one-night stay in a hotel at Milan Fiumicino Airport for a direct flight back to Atlanta mid-October.

Posted by
3291 posts

Treviso:

We chose Treviso as our first stop because we felt that it was a small city with not so many sights and a good place to recharge after a long flight. But, there is quite a lot to see and do here…it’s a charming town and really worth a visit. Some people call Treviso “the little Venice”.

We picked up our room key at a nearby pasticceria (Antica Pasticceria Nascimben). Our room at Residenza Ca’Fe was just o.k. We probably wouldn't book it again but the location was very good. Our room was very small and the service was not great BUT, the pastries at the pasticceria were included in the price and very good.

One of our favorite places for an aperitivo was Osteria dalla Gigia, and the specialty there is a delicious deep fried “sandwich” of mozzarella and ham called “Mozzarella in Carozza”...great with a Campari Spritzer. The place is small with standing room only…inside or outside.

The dish that wins the prize for the most unusual was the Vitello Tonnato at Osteria Urbana. It’s a classic Piedmontese dish of thinly sliced veal topped with a sauce of tuna, crunchy capers and mayonnaise.

The Cathedral of Saint Peter the Apostle known as “il Duomo” is a highlight of the town. It’s origin dates back to the early Christian era (6th century.) We were fascinated by the crypt, with ancient frescoes in the oldest part of the cathedral.

Treviso was lots of fun!

Posted by
3291 posts

Bassano del Grappa:

It takes some time to become familiar with a city and we always remind ourselves that first impressions aren’t always accurate. At first look, on a rainy day, Bassano might have looked a little sleepy, but it turns out that is has much to offer. There are two major piazzas. Piazza Libertà and Piazza Garabaldi. We learned that the town is named for the Mt. Grappa rather than the popular Italian brandy. We booked a small apartment at Marinali Rooms - it was comfortable with an excellent host who has lived in the city for many years.

Our host at the apartment gave us an informal tour of the city...one stop was to Libreria Palazzo Roberti…a fantastic bookstore with a complicated history. The short version is that it was a 17th century palace where Napoleon lived for six months. Many years later, a local photographer became very wealthy from his design of the camera tripod and he used his wealth to buy the palazzo for his daughters to set up a bookshop. It’s still going strong today and the daughters are still running the shop.

The tour continued and we stopped to see Carteria Tassotti, a paper shop with cards, prints, and gift wrap in beautiful Italian designs. The shop also houses Giorgio Tassotti’s collection of decorated papers, popular prints, and books.

We walked to the castle (closed on Tuesday) and down a steep hill to Bassano del Grappa’s own Ponte Vecchio. The bridge spans the old town and a newly renovated part of town with hip restaurants and shops. The bridge has been rebuilt a few times due to flooding but with modern reinforcements, it’s holding strong today.

Our host suggested that we needed to see the village of Asolo not far from Bassano del Grappa. On the way, we passed the home where Ernest Hemingway lived while recovering from war injuries. He wrote A Farewell to Arms while there. It was only a 30-minute scenic drive around curving, narrow roads. The upscale village, visited by many celebrities, is on a hilltop with excellent views of the surrounding countryside.

There is a huge, lively market in Bassano on Thursdays.

Posted by
1881 posts

I'm really looking forward to more! Thank you for such a detailed report.

Posted by
3329 posts

Yes, I am looking forward to more. We have made two trips to Northern Italy without a car but have not been to many of the places you visited.

Posted by
3291 posts

Chioggia:

We spent 3 nights here. We were looking for a Venice-vibe and seafood without the crowds. Chioggia was just the right place. The first leg of our trip was a one-hour train ride to the bustling Venice Mestre Station. From there we transferred to a very crowded bus. The entire trip took about 2 hours.

We chose it mainly for the seafood and it didn't disappointed us. Our hotel, Boutique Duomo Hotel in the city center is comfortable but with a few quirks.

Chioggia feels like a real work-a-day bustling fishing village. It's a small city for wandering. The large Cathedral Santa Maria Assunta dates back to 1627 and has beautiful chapels and works of art.

Small restaurants called "cicchetterai" (like tapas) line the canals and come alive in the evening serving tapas-like small snacks of seafood, cheese, or meat on bits of bread. These are traditionally served with a glass of Prosecco or an Aperol apertivo. It’s a light, fun meal - a favorite was Bacaro Sevénte...so good!

We liked the small restaurant Do Ombré Ristorante & Fishbar.

We purchased bus tickets at a tobacco shop for our next stop...Padua.

Posted by
3291 posts

Padua or Padova:

Four night here...we splurged a bit on a beautiful apartment not far from the city center - Residenza Maria Luisa. Two bedrooms, a large kitchen and living area made for a very comfortable stay. We walked to the apartment from the nearby bus stop.

Civic Museum is practically next door to the apartment had an exhibition of photography by Vivian Maier. I believe that the exhibition has since closed but it was a fantastic exhibition and I'd recommend to anyone interested in photography if you find it near where you are.

The market in Piazza del Frutti filled with produce, meats, cheeses, jams, and so much more! It's great if you have a place to prepare or store food.

We visited Palazzo Bo where Galileo taught for many years. It was such an interesting tour. The lectern he used when he lectured to his students is on display.

We booked an evening visit to Scrovegni Chapel. The frescoes in the small chapel were painted by Giotto. We were required to purchase tickets in advance. To preserve the paintings, only 25 people are allowed to enter at a time. Before entering the chapel, we are required to sit in a special room with controlled air flow to acclimate our clothing to conditions that protect the art works. While there, we watched a 15 minute video that explained the history of the chapel and the meaning of the frescoes which depict Biblical stories. We were fortunate that only 7 people were in our group so we had plenty of room to explore the space. Each group is only allowed to stay in the chapel for 15 minutes.

Padova is filled with treasures: From the Basilica of St. Anthony; Prato della Valle; a grassy park with a ring a statues; to Torre dell’Orologio.

Posted by
3291 posts

Mantua or Mantova:

Mantova is another stunning northern Italian city with a Duomo, clock towers, and many palazzos. We stayed in Hotel Broletto in the city center. For a return trip, we might opt for another hotel but it was o.k. with a good breakfast.

A favorite meals was dinner at Osteria della Fragoletta. One of the traditional dishes in Mantova is tortellini filled with pumpkin, served here swimming in butter and topped with a sage leaf.

Palazzo Te is a worthwhile visit. Here’s one description: ”It’s a 16th-century villa built for the Gonzaga family. The place is full of wild frescoes and mind-bending art — especially the famous Chamber of the Giants, where it feels like the walls are collapsing around you!”

More frescoes await at the Ducal Palace. And, there is a wonderful archeological museum.

Locals hang out at cafes on sidewalks covered with porticos, there's a hat shop, a small produce market and more! A Hugo Apertivo is a good choice here...made with prosecco, mint, and elderflower syrup.

Posted by
3291 posts

Cremona:

It fit into our itinerary but we didn't have high expectations for our 4 nights in Cremona but, it turned out to be one of our favorite cities. We stayed in the city center in Albergo Duomo. Our room was small but comfortable.

The highlight there is the Museo del Violino - we spent quite a lot of time here. We have an interest in music but we're not musicians and we still found it very informative. Stradivari lived in Cremona - you can also walk by his workshop with a statue of him nearby. The violin that's part of the statue keeps getting stolen by vandals and when we were there in early October, it was missing.

People/families spend an evening in the main piazza and there are many nice shops.

We ate a nice lunch at a traditional trattoria…El Sorbir. The traditional dish is Mostarda with boiled meats. Mostarda is a northern Italian condiment made of candied fruit and a mustard-flavoured syrup. We tried it though we wouldn't go our of our way to order it again. The highlight was the chocolate budino with zabaglione cream sauce – a very rich chocolate pudding served on a sauce flavored with Marsala wine. A dessert to be savored.

The Ala Ponzone Museum is worth a visit. We also climbed the steps to the top of the Clock Tower...the tower next to the Duomo of Cremona is the Torrazzo di Cremona which is 112 meters (367 feet) tall, it is the highest medieval tower in Italy, and one of the tallest brick bell towers in Europe.

The weekly markets here are excellent.

Posted by
3291 posts

Turin or Torino:

This was our second time to visit Turin. Not sure why, but compared to the last time we were there it seemed a little less elegant and more gritty. Still, it's a city we'd return to.

We took a train from Cremona to Turin - we had a connection at Milan Central Station which is currently being renovated. It was confusing to navigate but we persisted and arrived in Turin safely from Cremona.

We spent 6 nights here at Residenza dell'Opera. It was a large one-bedroom apartment...fairly basic but in a fantastic location (not in the city center) with a nice kitchen and everything we needed. We liked the neighborhood with many diverse dining options nearby - restaurants serving Spanish, Chinese, Japanese, and Argentinian food, as well as many variations of Italian cuisine. We would stay here again. There is a "sister" hotel called Opera35 Boutique Hotel which is in a very nice neighborhood nearby and it looks a bit more upscale.

After visiting many palazzos and museums, we were happy just to wander around the city.

Posted by
3291 posts

This was a great itinerary for us. I'm sure there are many other cities like these to explore and we will likely do so for future trips. We typically travel a month at a time and usually rent a car. This trip was different as we only used public transportation - it wasn't always convenient but we packed light and stayed flexible.

For Transportation Planning: We used Rome@Rio and Google Maps to plan transportation options. We booked GoOpti Transport from the Venice Airport to Treviso in advance and we were the only passengers. For most of the rail/bus tickets we booked as we went along either online, at the station, or at a tobacco shop for bus tickets.

For Hotels: I typically use Booking.com for research. Sometimes I book with them, and sometimes direct. It usually depends on price. Many apartments now request a photo of your passports in advance and they send a code that will get you into the accommodation. WhatsApp is often used for communication with a host.

For Restaurants: We use a variety of sources but rely a lot of Google Maps reviews and photos.

Posted by
8998 posts

Marsle, I was so happy to see your trip report! I love to stay in the less touristy cities of Italy. I haven’t stayed in Treviso or Chiogga so I appreciate hearing about those. I had Bassano del Grappa on an itinerary one year, but I dropped it for Moena, instead. The rest of your cities are ones that I stayed at and enjoyed, also.

Cremona was the first city when I was able to be back after the Covid years. Hearing a violinist in the piazza while standing looking at the Duomo and clock tower with a few tears of gratitude is etched permanently in my memory!

Isn’t Mantova special? I was hoping to take my daughter there in September, but we ran out of time. I want to go back there again.

It’s interesting that you thought Torino was grittier this time! When I stayed there again in September I liked it even more than the first time. I do think my impression may be swayed because of the hotel where I stayed and the activities I did. My hotel was very nice. Having a nice room & elegant breakfast sets the stage for a positive opinion even before I started out walking. And the food tour was outstanding, plus the bike tour was a lot of fun.

I’ll have to check out the book/guide that you recommended - thanks!

I had the pumpkin ravioli again in Ferrara, similar to the dish you mentioned but the “sauce” lightly applied is butter & sage and topped with truffle - amazing! I’ve been able to recreate it at home. PM me if you would like the recipe.

Posted by
3291 posts

Hi Jean,

It was nice to read your comments! I remember reading your post about Cremona and how you described the magical feeling that you experienced there. It influenced our decision to add it to our itinerary. Thank you.

I agree that a really nice hotel can set the stage for how one might feel about a city. I'm glad that you enjoyed your hotel in Turin! I'd love to know where you stayed.

Yes! Mantova is special! There are so many treasures there. It was a pleasant surprise.

I'll be in touch about the Pumpkin Ravoli recipe!

Best wishes!

Posted by
1354 posts

Marsle, nice trip report. You put together a great itinerary. Thanks so much for sharing.

Posted by
15724 posts

Hi,

Thanks for information on Napoleon. He was known as only General Bonaparte then, an unemployed officer in need of a command, sent to Northern Italy, (a minor theater) by the French government to deal with Piedmont and its Austrian ally . After all, France and Austria had been in a state of war since 1792, four years prior to Napoleon's assignment to Northern Italy.