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North Korea: my own travel as a politcal act

Rick says: "....Americans who "travel as a political act" can have the time of their lives and come home smarter--with a better understanding of the interconnectedness of today's world and just how our nation fits in...." I couldn't agree more! This inspired me very recently to travel to the world's most isolated country: North Korea.

For many years I assumed it was illegal for American to travel there; just like Cuba. A couple years ago I attended the Toronto Film Festival, and attended the screening of the first western film allowed to be filmed inside North Korea: Comrade Kim Goes Flying At the Q&A after the screening one of the British producers mentioned that he also runs a travel company and does tours there. After it was all over I struck up a conversation with him, mentioned my love for travel and wished I could join one of his tours. I was quite surprised when he told me Americans were in fact allowed to travel, no problem. He gave me his card with the url of his site, and I told him I would contact him soon. Soon turned out to be about 24 months:) But I was indeed able to join one of his company's tours in Jan. 2014.

It was very easy to get the North Korean visa all I had to do was provide a digital copy of the photo page of my passport, digital passport photo, and a simple visa application all of which was emailed to the tour company for processing. At no time did I have to surrender my passport; the visa is issued on a separate piece of paper. The company has it offices in Beijing and the flight to Pyongyang originates there, so I also had to also get a Chinese Visa on my own.

Before the tour begins all participants are required to attend an orientation meeting at the offices in Beijing the evening before the flight. It's here where you get to meet the tour company rep who will accompany us into North Korea for the entire tour. He laid out the ground rules of traveling in NK and some pointers on how we were supposed to behave etc. But he told us once we had raptor going with the official govt. minders things would be laid back for the most part...and that was very true.
Next morning we all met back at the offices for the bus to the airport to catch our 90 minute flight to Pyongyang. We flew on the national carrier Air Koryo, they used a very new Russian built jet. Flight was very enjoyable, my seatmate was a friendly North Korean gentlemen returning from business in China, he spoke excellent english and we had an enjoyable conversation about our two countries.
We arrive at Pyongyang airport, immigration was a snap, the officer was friendly and my US passport wasn't an issue. In fact at the long line at customs one of the officials noticed me holding my US passport and ushered me to the front of the line! Once everyone passed through customs we met our official minders and bus driver who would accompany us throughout the entire tour, and took us to the the hotel in the city center for our first group dinner.
At this point I should note that the tour company out of Beijing requires all participants to sign a non-disclosure agreement about what we see and do throughout the tour. NK bans most all journalists from visiting, so they will often pretend to be tourists and join tours like mine. The agreement is so the tour company doesn't fall out of favor with the government and get banned from the country...effecting their business. So in a public forum like this I can only talk in general terms about the tour.

continued.........................

Posted by
9110 posts

....Part 2

My tour mates were mostly Australians, with a Swede, a Swiss, a Kiwi, a Brit, Canadian, and another yank in the mix....all solo travelers. We were treated very well by the locals, they were all very friendly, just as curious about us as we were with them, and quite a few spoke english and asked what the deal was with Dennis Rodman, who was also in country at the time;) At no time were we prohibited from making contact with the any of the locals we came across. The schools were on a winter break so there were lots of kid around rollerblading, turns out they loved the Reeses Peanut Butter Cups we passed out:) The government minders were also good people, with a great senses of humor:) Not the robotic talking heads I expected. They were always receptive to sites we wanted to see which were not on the official itinerary. Without exception they were always able to squeeze them into the tour, no problem.

Food was great. All lunches and dinners were at different restaurants with different cuisines at each one. They were even nice enough to provide western utensils at each location...I'm hopeless with chop sticks:)

Shopping was very interesting. USD, Euros, and Chinese RMB happily accepted everywhere. You can get it all: cheap Russian Vodka for only 1 euro a liter, lots of DVDs about the country and titles from the domestic movie industry, ginseng teas, propaganda posters, and some amazing art work. Surprisingly the none of the art was political, most of it was stunningly beautiful nature scenes. But it was way out of my price range, shipping via DHL is available for the larger works.

Sadly I can't go into details about most of the sites we saw. I will say they ranged from the very interesting, to surreal, to unintentionally funny, a couple a bit disturbing. The group had fun discussing them at the various hotel bars in the evening. My favorite was the working revolving bar on the top floor. It's frequented by a lot of western diplomats, and one night got to meet the German Ambassador. The general consensus was that the best sites were the ones where we were able to interact with the locals: the ride on the metro, the water park, and the equestrian center.

To wrap it up. It was the best trip I have ever taken. Of course there is good and bad in NK, but I was glad to see some of it through my own eyes and not through other governments and the media. There is a good chance I will return in the near future, possibly this August to see the Mass Games. The company offers a wide assortment of tours to all corners of the country.

If anyone would like to know the name of the company I used, links to some video clips I recorded, or would like me to go into more detail about what a did and saw...feel free to PM me.

Posted by
12040 posts

Seems like they've lightened up (at least to foreign tourists) a little since the days of Kim Il Sung. My sister took a bus tour in the early 90s, and the narration was one ridiculous lie after the next, like showing you the factory where Mr. Kim invented the computer and the clinic where he discovered the polio vaccine. And that street with all the pot holes? It's because of a recent attack by unnamed "imperialist agressor".

Posted by
1446 posts

Wow, Michael - that's great!

I traveled throughout Iran on my own, as a solo woman traveler, for 10 weeks in 2001. I was in Beirut on Sept. 11th and on my way to Teheran on the 12th. The bombs had started to fly in Afghanistan, when I was in Mashad. This was long before RS thought of taking a crew there and to declare that travel in such a vilified region is "a political act"...

I agree with you that such travels are enlightening in many ways. IMO, it's a "human act" to want to know other people and the situations under which they live. Travel, for me, is about learning about history, society and culture and about all the things that we have in common - and in better understanding the things that we don't share.

You and I are exceedingly fortunate to have the opportunity (and the resources) to travel to places that are so different and to meet generous people who are willing to share who they are. It's also refreshing when we are approached with genuine curiosity about who we are...

Posted by
2774 posts

Very interesting trip report, Michael. I'm curious about what made this your favorite trip.

Posted by
9110 posts

I've been fascinated by NK since I was a teenager. I've read about over a hundred books about the country over the years and each one said how much North Koreans hate Americans because they were "brainwashed" into thinking we were they're enemy who would kill them on-site. Perhaps at one time in the past that was true, but the hatred just wasn't there. They were regular folks just going about their lives in difficult situations.....it was fascinating to see that first-hand.
Also just the the adventure of being able to visit the world's most isolated country that's unlike anything you will see on the planet. As I mentioned every person on that tour was traveling solo which meant they were all travel nuts like myself. It was great to be among other travelers will similar mindsets. Every one of the people on that tour vowed to visit NK again. Maybe that will happen maybe not, but that was the impact the trip had on everyone including myself.

Posted by
2774 posts

Thanks, Michael. I can see why it would be fascinating, but probably not somewhere I will ever go. All the more reason why I enjoyed your report.

Posted by
1446 posts

There is a HUGE difference between the power base that controls regimes (North Korea, Iran, Syria, and Chile under Pinochet for example) and the people who have to live under them.

Understanding that distinction is key and is one of the biggest insights gained by traveling to places like this.

It also drives home the point, to me at least, of just how fragile our own system is.