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NIN + Lysefjord August 2024

My husband and I have been to Norway once before, back in 2015. This time when it came up on our radar, it was for just my daughter and myself. We planned this back in January and had high hopes of going north and seeing much more, but that did not happen. My mother passed just a few weeks before we planned this, so I was not in the mental state to plan a longer, more involved trip. So we did the best with the time we had and the energy that I had for planning. We also were somewhat constricted as we had e-credits with Delta that had to be used by September 1, so we were a bit rushed for time.

Anyway, we decided to forego a rental car and the north and just take the easy way out and book through Fjord Tours and do Norway in a Nutshell with Lysefjord added in.

We flew on Delta from SEA on August 21, arriving into Oslo the afternoon of the 22nd. At the airport we purchased r/t tickets on Flytoget and went to track 3 to catch the train into Oslo itself. It was then a short walk to our hotel, Thon Hotel Astoria. By this time it was late afternoon and we were hungry and tired. Upon their recommendation we headed to Fiskeriet Youngstorget which was just a few blocks away. We both had the fish soup, which was excellent! After that we were exhausted, so headed back to the hotel and were in bed for the night by 5pm.

The next morning we headed to the bus station with tickets in hand. The driver could not get our tickets to sscan, but let us on anyway and we were on our way to Kristiansand. Upon arrival, the rain was just absolutely dumping. We are from Seattle, so are used to it, but this was just a torrential downpour that would not stop. We quickly walked over to the train station to continue on to Stavanger. That short walk completely drenched us and our suitcases, which have always held up great to the rain, but not this day.

We arrived and found our way to our apartment for the next few days, which was right next to the Valberget Tower. First order of business was to lay everything out to dry. The apartment had a washer/dryer, so we used Google translate to figure out the options to just use the dryer.

We wandered the town a bit and got the lay of the land, and then headed to dinner at Fisketorget, right down on the harbor. They had fish soup, which was very good, cocktails and then we shared a strawberry rhubarb compote with pistachio.

After dinner we continued to wander and shop. All the locals were wearing nice poncho jackets, not like a poncho we think of here at home. We had no intention of buying another jacket, but these seemed so usable that we both ended up buying one. I also found a beautiful sweater that I could not resist. After this we were off to the grocery store for breakfast items and I was thrilled to find my favorite Icelandic Skyr!

The next morning we met up at the tourist information building and were off for a kayaking trip on the Lysefjord. The drive there was beautiful and we were able to stop for a photo op. There were only 5 of us, so a nice small group. We arrived at the outfitter, Nordic Paddling, and got suited up and walked down to the water. We spent a full 3 hours on the water kayaking. Our guide was excellent and our group was a lot of fun. We went into Smuggler's Cove and saw so many sea stars. They are very different then here at home as they are tiny, only about 3" diameter whereas ours are quite large at around 7" most often, and larger. We did doge 3 big boats in the fjord and a few private boats. The water got quite choppy the last hour and we were rowing into the wind, so had to work hard.

Once back in Stavanger we were hungry for lunch so went back to the place we had dinner the night before, Fisketorget. We sat outside this time and had the catch of the day which was a white fish in the cod family, with vegetables. Very good!

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Then we raced back to the apartment to clean up and get ready for a splurge. We booked the evening at Flor & Fjaere which is the most amazing garden I have ever seen. Butchart Gardens in Victoria does not even compare, to give you an idea. It was a bit confusing to find the meeting location for the boat as it has changed, but we found it. There is a small shipping container at the meeting point that has their name on it and a bunch of flowers painted on it, so it was quite obvious. We boarded the boat and headed over to the island. They had different guides depending on what language you spoke, so for the English group there were only 5 of us. My daughter and I and a family from Switzerland. The tour of the garden was excellent and the back story of how it all came to be was just fascinating. After the tour of the garden, you go into the jungle house which is their restaurant where you get a 3 course meal. The interior was just as beautiful as outside and the food was very good. The drinks were extra, and there were many options. They start you with a charcuterie plate, then the set menu for that evening was fish soup, halibut with vegetables, and then rhubarb pie with ice cream and raspberry sorbet. It was all very good, but the fish soup was our least favorite of all that we tried on this trip. It wasn't bad, but when we were comparing all of them, this was at the bottom, which we hated since everything else was so great. The gardens even have a couple beach areas! Sand, beach chairs, cabanas, etc. If the weather were conducive, you woil;d have thought you were in the tropics somewhere! This was not a cheap evening, but it was an absolute highlight and we loved every minute of it!

The next morning we went to a bakery for breakfast, then wandered. We walked along Ovre Holmegate, which is a very colorful street only a block or so away from our apartment. We also ran into the Swiss family from the night before and spent a lot of time chatting with them near our apartment. The mom inquired about our ponchos and said she had to go buy one;)

We went to the canning museum and the cafe there for lunch. The herring salad was excellent! The museum was really interesting as it was a combination of a printing museum (mostly about propaganda) and canning. You could even buy the old pins to open a can of sardines, which of course nowadays the tins are pop tops. I bought a pin as it was just sort of fun:)

The rest of the day we just wandered up in that area, which is known as Gamle Stavanger and is rows upon rows of beautiful white homes. We we spent a lot of time checking out all the gardens along the way.

Dinner that night was at SOL. It was a 6 course tasting menu that I had high hopes for. My daughter enjoyed it more than I did. The food was fine, but it felt very overhyped to me and the service was not what it should have been. I left there feeling very "meh".

The next day we had a reservation at a place to leave our luggage. The company is called Radical Luggage and they have a few locations around town. My daughter booked and paid for it the night before, but when we arrived the next morning, there was nothing there. There was an empty house, that was it. So we quickly took our luggage to the train station and got the last locker there and left everything there for the day. We wandered to the harbor to find the most ungodly sight, a massive cruise ship. It was so large you could not see anything else, and of course the area was mobbed. We quickly got out of the hustle of that and found a rib boat ride over near the oil museum so went and did that. It was a lot of fun and took us back to the Lysefjord where we kayaked a few days before. We went into Smuggler's Cove again, but also saw a seal on the rocks, saw two goats whose farmer drops them off for the summer and comes back in September to retrieve them, and then some beautiful waterfalls.

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We made it back to the train station in time for our bus to Bergen. We did have the world's worst tourist on the bus with us though. I don't even know where to begin with him. While waiting for the bus, he was throwing his used tissues out just on the sidewalk, which stunned me into silence. Then on the bus he decided it was time to make a phone call for 2 hours at the top of his lungs. I shooshed him several times to no avail. I finally had to tap him on the arm and then put my finger over my lips. He understood that, but only moved a seat back and continued on for another hour. Then he came back to his seat, across from mine, and flung his legs to sprawl, kicking me in the leg. Then he spread his legs out and proceeded to let all the gas out of his body for quite some time. At one of the ferry crossings, he was not paying attention to the loudspeaker and as we were leaving our seats to go sit on the ferry, he shoved his phone to my mouth and kept yelling at me "translate! translate!". Needless to say I translated in my own way by pushing his phone back away from me, and walked away. I know there are bad tourists, but holy cow, this one took the cake!

We arrived in Bergen in the dark and the rain and walked to our hotel, the Thon Bristol. It was actually a really beautiful walk. The location was ideal. The next morning we had prepaid tickets for the funicular so took that up before the rains began. It was quite busy as there were several bus loads of people that were dropped off, but most people did not venture out onto the trails at the top. We did, and it was nice to wander with no agenda whatsoever.

Once back down in town, we shared a reindeer hot dog as we wanted to try one. It was fine, but did not knock our socks off. We wandered the fish market and bought some lingonberries for in the hotel. There was an Espresso House across from our hotel so we went there to dry out and relax a bit. Then back to the fish market for fish soup for lunch. Two fish soups and two flavored waters was about $60.

We wandered a few of the touristy shops, but just had to stop as there were so many people. Yes, another cruise ship. So we headed over to Arven, which is a silversmith. They made silver ware, jewelry, etc and it was a fascinating shop/factory. I bought a beautiful ladle that will get a lot of use during the holidays.

Dinner that night was at Bryggeloftet. The service was a bit slow, but they were short staffed. Otherwise everyone was very friendly, and the hostess did not like the table that was held for us, and said she was giving us a better one. Nice! We had a little view out over the harbor. The food was so good here! We shared mussels as an appetizer. We have so much seafood here in Seattle, and a lot of mussels, but the mussels there are tiny. Ours are much larger. They were very good though. Then we each had the reindeer filet with asparagus, potatoes.

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The next morning was to be a long day with the NIN tour. We started at 8:30am taking the train from Bergen to Voss. Then we changed to buses there, at which point my daughter spottest the worst tourist, so we rushed to the furthest bus to get away;). The Voss area was so beautiful! We then arrived at Gudvangan and caught the boat for the fjord cruise to Flam. The boat for this was different then the one we took back in 2015. Much larger, much nicer, and zero emissions. The fjord is just so serene and beautiful. The boat had two levels, as well as the sides so plenty of room for everyone to stand and take in the amazing scenery. And then it happened, we got close to Flam and there was a behemoth cruise ship again. I have never been a fan of cruises, but both this one and in Stavanger really reinforced this with me. Poor Flam, it is such a cute little town surrounded by so much beauty, but it has just been loved to death. Needless to say, we got the heck out of the immediate area and went over the the museum which was nicely done and not many people. Then we walked as far as we could on one side of the harbor. I wish we had our swimsuits with us to do the floating saunas. Tucked behind the regular buildings and food truck area, there was a Waffle Wagon, which looked like a wooden train. We bought cappuccinos up there and sat with another family and just enjoyed relaxing.

Soon it was time to catch our train up to the Kjosfossen waterfall. Here a lady in a red dress dances off to the side and legend has it that she is the Huldra and lures men into the woods to seduce them. We did not see this lady when we were here in 2015, although I read about her, but she was there this time.

After this wwe took the trail to Myrdal and then on to Oslo, finally arriving at our hotel at 11pm. We were exhausted! We stayed at the Thon Hotel Astoria again.

For our last full day we caught up on some sleep and then just wandered with no agenda. We went up to the Palace and wandered the gardens, then to the Nobel Peace Center, and then to the Fortress and the Resistance Museum there. We wandered back over to Fiskeriet Youngstorget for fish soup and then back to the hotel. We had dinner reservations at a very nice place, but cancelled them as we were just done for the day. Instead we had a tin of kippers from the canning museum, so had those in the room for dinner. Rather sad, but it worked and we didn't mind.

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Morning came early and we took the Flytoget back to the Oslo airport. We did not have our boarding passes so went to an agent and she checked us in and gave us the passes. At security, my backpack was pulled aside for that sardine key that I mentioned earlier. They kept saying I had scissors. Nope, just a sardine key;)

Flight to AMS was mostly uneventful. The lady at OSL that gave us the boarding passes and checked our passports said we were good, but once at the gate trying to board we both got pulled aside so they could check our passports. Not a big deal, except I felt bad for being that person to hold up the line. Once at AMS, Passport control was a mess as they had everyone using the self serve kiosks that were not working properly. Very glitchy, and some poor older lady was very confused and nobody was there to help her. To top it off, people in line next to us were mocking her, to which I promptly told them to have some patience. They did not stop and I felt so bad for the lady. The agents around there were not helping her either. Once we got through there,my daughter was pulled aside for extra screening. So I waited outside that area for a while for her. She saw a sign that said to dump your water, so she did, and then they yelled at her for doing that . Apparently you only need to do that if it is in a metal container, which hers was not. It was just very confusing etc. So then after grabbing lunch we headed to our gate in case of any other fiascos. Good thing because once there they called her name again, for yet another security screening. Not quite a cavity search, but close. I was trying not to laugh as everything that day was just not going our way, but I did not want to draw any more attention to ourselves. Needless to say, we were very happy to board and get settled in.

We arrived SEA nice and easy and I went through the Global line with just a photo taken and I was on my way. Our driver was there waiting for us, and my husband had big salads waiting for us when we got home. The dogs gave us a grand welcome home round of zoomies, and then we were in bed early. Our daughter stayed overnight and then drove home this morning.

It was a good trip, but far from our normal way of traveling due to circumstances, but that is ok. Life happens and I feel so fortunate to be able to travel. My husband and I hope to get up to northern Norway in the winter, so that is on the agenda.

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A few random notes. We each only brought one pair of shoes. I had my trusty waterproof OnCloud's and they are comfy and kept my feet completely dry. My daughter bought a brand new pair of Hoka's for the trip. Not waterproof, but they dried super fast so even while walking around when she would get wet, they dried while we were still out and about. No issues for either of us.

My daughter signed up for Clear before we left and did the biometrics at the airport. Super fast and we were on our way.

The Centurion Lounge at SEA actually had a line to get in. This is the first time I have seen that at the new lounge, but it moved very quickly and we were in the lounge in maybe 10 minutes or so.

I was surprised that our flight was out of the A gates at SEA, but was happy to not take the train. Everyone was very polite in boarding and standing back and waiting until their boarding zone was announced. Same thing at Schipol coming home. Both of these flights only had maybe 6-8 people pre board.

We knew Norway was expensive as we had been there before and we are used to Iceland. So this did not catch me off guard, but it was interesting to see how much our various meals out were. Some seemed very reasonable and similar to here at home, and others seemed much more. I rarely drink, but we often had one glass of wine each with dinner so I really noticed the cost of alcohol. Good thing it doesn't appeal to me most of the time!

I did take a tiny bag of my mom's ashes, like 2-3 pinches, so very little. We are taking mom around the world now, and a tiny bit of her is in Norway. I found a secluded spot, shed a tear and did my best to keep it together, and we hiked on knowing that she would have loved it.

I like fast paced trips and this was. The only thing I would change would be to have rented a car and get away from the hoards a bit. As I said though, the planning for this trip was just very different circumstances for me and that is ok. It just reinforced to myself the type of travel I enjoy and what I don't.