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Nice trip - Spring 2015

I tagged along with my wife to a conference she was attending in Nice this past April.

Night flight from MSP to Paris, then on to Nice arriving at noon. Rented a cab to the hotel (cash only, ~$35). Yes there probably are cheaper ways to get into town but I am ready to go and I don’t want to wait around. I want to get to the hotel, drop off my stuff and get out and see the sights.

We stayed at the Goldstar Resort and it was very nice and a convenient location for getting to the beach (5 minutes) or train station (10 minutes). Rooftop pool nice for relaxing after a long day of walking around. Friendly and helpful staff. My wife’s conference was at the Acropolis which is a 25 minute walk. The room also had a kitchen so we could make meals in the room to save time and money. There is a Carrefour just a couple minutes away so it was easy to buy what we needed. We mistook the dishwasher for a stove so one night we wound up eating pan fried frozen pizza. We used the microwave to thaw it out and then fried it up. Really wasn’t bad and the crust was crispy. Down the street toward the beach is Iskender Kabob which was my favorite inexpensive sit down place to eat.

The weather was in the mid to upper 60’s and mostly sunny. It was so nice to walk around in short sleeves outside for the first time in six months. The water was cold, similar to what I have experienced swimming in Lake Superior and Lake Michigan, so if you can bear the first minute or two you will be fine for about 20 minutes before needing to get back to the beach to warm up. The beach in Nice is made up of smooth rocks so if not renting a setup at one of the bars along the beach (and why wouldn’t you unless you are cheap like me) then get a well-padded blanket/towel (~$35, not cheap so I sat on guidebooks, one for each cheek) and got water shoes sold at nearby souvenir shops.

We didn’t rent a car. It didn’t seem necessary since the train station was 10 minutes away and there is bus service to many of the places we wanted to see. Using the train to Monaco, Cannes, and Antibes worked fine but our bus experience to Cap Ferrat required more waiting than I care for which was about an hour for a bus line that is supposed to have 2 to 4 buses per hour. Didn’t care to try buses again to avoid more waiting and wondering when the bus would show up. I think using the trains to see as much as we could at the start of the trip and then renting a car for other sites later would have worked better for us.

Being a pack mule for many years carrying my kids and enough water to resolve California’s drought I no longer carry anything except my phone. If I feel inclined I’ll take pictures of maps or certain pages of guidebooks or I’ll just rely on my memory. Arriving by train in Monaco I just followed the peloton into town and for Cannes and Antibes I headed for the water. It all worked out fine. Either I’m getting lazy or I just don’t care if I have to wander around aimlessly for a while. You never know, you might find something interesting.

We had two spendy dinners at la Volga and Bistro d’ Antoine. The rest of the time it was restaurants or snack food along Cours Salay, Iskender Kabob or meals back at the room. Socca was just so-so. It was just chick peas after all so I wasn’t expecting an explosion of flavor. It is cheap, filling, and easy to eat while walking around. Instead I would recommend the flatbread sandwiches/pizza. For something sweet I really liked the fruit slices that were boiled in sugar water ten minutes a day for 45 days. I think the citrus fruit slices were the best.

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Oddest sight was the view of a distant hotel form the city walls of Antibes. Looking in the direction of Nice along the shoreline I saw a structure that looked very futuristic. I didn’t notice it on the train ride out to Cannes but heading back to Nice I paid attention and it turned out to be a hotel. Probably not the most efficient use of space but a very interesting looking place.

We really enjoyed the promenade. It is very wide and long. Nice views of the water and buildings and plenty of entertaining people watching. Plenty of chairs/benches to take a break on. Nice way to walk off dinner and end the day. We also enjoyed Cours Salay and Vieux Nice areas. The market is very colorful with plenty of flowers and fresh produce, souvenir shops, eating establishments and bars. It is also fun to wander the narrow streets of the old city and to go into the churches and see their works of art.

Day 1: Landed at noon and on the promenade by 1:00. We walked along the promenade to Castle Hill and climbed to the top to enjoy the views. Descended the other side of the hill to the port and took a boat cruise. Then over to Cours Salay for dinner and a walk around Vieux Nice and then along the promenade to end the day.

Day 2: Daytrip to Monaco. Flyby’s of the cathedral, palace and gardens. We spent several hours enjoying the aquarium exhibits and time on the rooftop terrace for the views. Walked to the Jardin Exotique. I think the route marker to the garden said “Route Des Alpes”. The Alps portion is just that, it’s a bit of a climb and the route is not frequently marked. A few times we thought we lost the trail. This place reminded me of the Botanical Garden in Phoenix, one of my favorite gardens, with a large variety of cacti. Very nice views of Monaco and the Mediterranean. You can take Bus #2 if you don’t want to walk or get a bit lost.

Day 3: Rothschild Villa and Kerylos Villa. Not really my thing but my wife enjoyed the villas. Of course I wouldn’t mind living in one of these places but I would have to win a few lotteries to afford it. My favorite part of the day was spending time on the beach at Beaulieu-Sur-Mer. Very cozy family oriented sandy little beach on a bay. Always bring a bathing suit with you.

Day 4: Helped out setting up the booth for the conference. Once the work was done it was time to spend the rest of the day on the beach in Nice. The one nice thing about the rocky beach is that you are not covered in sand or bringing it home with you. Unfortunately I lost my wedding ring while swimming. I covered a lot of water so when I noticed it missing I knew it now belonged to the sea. At least we’ll always know where it is.

Day 5: On my own sightseeing now until the last full day. Day trip to Cannes and Antibes. Train to Cannes and just walked to the water and made a quick trip to see the Carlton Hotel. Stopped to see the movie star handprints and admire the yachts in the marina. The main reason I went to Cannes was to catch a boat to Ste Marguerite to visit the fort and see the prison cell where the man in the iron mask was held. I really enjoyed touring the fort and there are some really nice views from here and this place would make a fine day trip with the family. As for Cannes, the beachfront sidewalk was narrow and the sandy beach was taken over by the bars renting out spots. Not real inviting. Definitely prefer the promenade and beach in Nice. In Antibes I visited the Picasso Museum and walked along the fortress walls. I would have liked to spend more time here wandering the streets. Next time.

Day 6: I took the hoho bus tour to as an easy way to get to the Chagall and Matisse museums. I really enjoyed the colorful Chagall paintings and the audio tour filled in the details. The Matisse museum seemed underwhelming after the Chagall so I would recommend stopping at the Matisse museum first.

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Day 7: I Just wandered around Cours Salay and old nice and visited the modern museum of art in the morning. In the afternoon I walked the length of the promenade just to watch the sea. Visited the Musee Massena and enjoyed the cool sea breeze and shade in their garden.

Day 8: Our last full day and my wife can sightsee again so we wandered around Cours Salay and old town looking for souvenirs, climbed castle hill again for the views, relaxed on the beach, and visited the fine arts museum.

Day 9: fly home.

With a car and more time I would have liked to visit La Trophie, Fondation Maeght, a hillside village or two and Grasse for the perfume museums. A little more beach time, too.

Nice felt very homey. I could see having Nice as a possible snowbird location to escape Minnesota from January through March.

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233 posts

Bob, I really enjoyed your trip report! Thanks for posting it. So many interesting details! Your travel style is very different from mine, and I find that very refreshing. (Brrrr on the swimming, though. Too chilly for me!)

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11507 posts

thanks for your trip report.. I really enjoyed reading it.. we liked Nice also..

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311 posts

Thanks so much for sharing an itinerary of your travels. We are headed to Nice and Monaco in March, so I enjoyed reading the details of your stay. Although it won't be beach weather when we visit, we are looking forward to the museums and villas. We will be relying on public transportation. Would you mind sharing how you got to/from the villas? Rick's directions sound a bit involved. Thanks in advance for any tips you can share.

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We took the bus to the Rothschild villa. This was when we waited an hour for a bus that was supposed to run 2 to 4 times per hour. It must have been running at 10:00 and 10:59 (when we got on) so the 2 stops per hour was met but I wasn't happy about the wait. We also felt lucky to get on since there was quite a crowd waiting for this bus. There also was a bit of a walk to the villa but not bad. Of course there were plenty of spaces available in the parking lot which I noticed because we usually rent a car.

From there we walked to the Kerylos Villa along the water. I don't think it was too far but my wife and I are pretty fit and we walked about 15 miles a day on this trip according to our fitbits.

Then we spent time on the beach then walked into town (I think it was La Porte) looking to take the train back to Nice. The ticket machine was broken and the line at the teller was pretty long so we gave the bus another try. This time the wait was short but the bus was crowded at 6pm (rush hour so it figures) but got us back to the port of Nice. We, as well as others on the bus, thought we would be dropped off where we got on the bus in the morning, not the port. It added about 15 more minutes to the walk.

I'm sure using the buses will be fine. Lots of people on this site prefer public transportation over renting a car. I'm not one of those people.

This trip was different for us since we spent so much time based in one city. Because of that we felt we could use public transportation like we do when we spend several days in larger cities. The trains to Monaco and Cannes worked great as do the subway's in the larger cities. But, I would have rather had a car and will schedule my sightseeing differently the next time I am based in a smaller town where I would take advantage of the trains early and then rent a car for the sights that would be easier for me to access via car rather than using the bus system. To each his own.

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311 posts

I appreciate your response. Hats off to you and your wife! Don't think my husband and I could do 15 miles/day. Thanks for being so specific about your travels. I took lots of notes.

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10193 posts

ok I've gotta ask -- how did you confuse the dishwasher for the oven??? Obviously this didn't look like any dishwasher we can imagine!

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76 posts

When coherent it is obviously a dishwasher. I believe the dishwasher was beneath the stovetop which added to the mistaken identity. Our first day was a very long day since we can't sleep on planes and were in a hurry to buy food that evening before the Carrefour closed. A closer and more careful examination, opening it up, would have avoided this mistake. It took more effort but the pizza turned out better than had it been cooked in an oven due to the crispier crust.