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New Mexico (and a bit of Texas)

Recently returned from a week in New Mexico, a favorite destination of ours. Sometimes we drive it (1-1/2 days) or sometimes we fly, this time used Southwest Airlines via Denver. In the old days of Northwest Airlines there were 3 nonstops/day Minneapolis >> Albuquerque but with the Delta merger those mostly went away except 1 seasonal flight in summer. Delta now wants to route us via Atlanta or SLC, both 2-3 times farther flying distance, no thanks, so Southwest it is.

A month ago I was driving past a yard sale and saw a nice beige straw cowboy hat sitting on a table and I thought, aha, that’s the solution to having to wear my floppy wide-brimmed “old guy” hat on hikes in strong sun places to protect against skin cancer. Those old guy hats have the style of a tissue of Kleenex, whereas a cowboy hat is full of style. So $3 later I have a new hat. It sure is a pain to carry it on an airplane, it has to sit on a guy’s lap for each flight. Watch the Diet Coke spills.

Having visited all 50 US states there are 2 that stand out to me as being like different countries, one is Louisiana, the other New Mexico. So a bit like taking a foreign trip. We have friends with money in Santa Fe to stay with so for us it is a plush vacation. Lodging is provided in a separate guest house but since they eat all their meals out it isn’t necessarily a cheap vacation. Fortunately, Santa Fe has one of the best American restaurant scenes and the food is a bargain for the quality.

Arrived to ABQ airport, undergoing a lot of noisy renovations right now. Caught the car rental shuttle, got a good deal on a rental car but had to beg for a free water, “Enterprise always gives us free water” I said (it’s true), and it worked. Hit a lot of city traffic northbound for the 60 mile drive to Santa Fe. Arrived at the beautiful architect-designed AirBnB our friends run on their 2 acres south of the capitol, so walking distance to the plaza. Wonderful shaded outside patio with wild deer snacking, pleasant weather the whole visit, blue sky all 5 days. Views of the Rockies as well.

First night went to La Choza, a great New Mexican restaurant. New Mexican food is a bit different from Tex-Mex. There’s always the choice of red or green sauce on top, I just choose “Christmas” (half and half). Despite all the trips to NM and SF I still had not visited Taos or the Valles Caldera, so first day did a hike in the caldera, access is via Los Alamos with a security stop which was just a few questions. Had a nice hike in the pine forests of the rim of the caldera, apparently where the show Longmire was filmed. That night we waited an hour for the hottest restaurant in SF, Leo’s, a Thai/Malaysian fusion, essentially new dishes based on ingredients from those places. Very inventive and tasty, but one dish was too spicy to taste the food.

Santa Fe has a series of festivals all summer, Indian Market is probably the biggest one with 1000 native artists selling art and jewelry. Friday was the beginning of the 313th annual Fiesta de Santa Fé, a week-long series of events. Friday evening is the burning of Zozobra, a huge event where about 50,000 people gather to watch an enormous animatronic puppet burn. Conceived by an artist about 100 years ago, Zozobra is a cleansing ceremony where the town writes its “Glooms,” worries, fears, etc., on paper to stuff into Zozobra for burning and purging.

Here’s a series of videos of the burning. Chanting of “Burn him! Burn him!” can be heard from the crowd. Zozobra grunts and moans. I’d never seen drones used in this way. Loved all of it!

https://streamable.com/qp2kfm

https://streamable.com/9g723b

https://streamable.com/qixtjz

https://streamable.com/m1hi3h

https://streamable.com/2v8w9s

And yes, the modern Burning Man event is based on the older Zozobra ritual.

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PART 2

The next day we visited one of the many art museums, this one was the folk art museum. Particularly interesting were the telephone wire weavings from Vanuatu. Continued that evening with another fiesta event, the Mariachi Extravaganza which is held in the beautiful outdoor Santa Fe Opera venue. It’s nice to see the local Spanish/Mexican community keeping up traditions. Here’s another video.

https://streamable.com/8nnfsh

Our last day in SF we drove to Taos, looked at the Rio Grande Gorge on the way, impressive. Noted that the local jewelry stands at the nearby rest stop had hired an armed guard, is that really necessary? In the past have seen an armed guard at the Albuquerque Kohl’s also. Drove into Taos, unfortunately the Pueblo (Reservation) was sealed for the day so we were not able to see the old Pueblo building that claims to be the oldest house in the country still in use, 700-1000 years old. Drove back on the High Road to Taos, more pine forest mountain scenery like the caldera, went through a few Spanish-speaking towns left over from the Spanish Empire days, was surprised to find out that some of the old Spanish towns were given community land grants from the US government similar to the process of land grants (reservations) for Indian tribes. Here’s some background if interested

https://www.nmlegis.gov/handouts/LGC%20061015%20Item%202%20Community%20Land%20Grants%20in%20NM%20-%20Professor%20Garcia%20y%20Griego%20615.pdf

Moving on from gorgeous Santa Fe and the Rockies, the objective was to head to the SE of the state and see the 3 national parks there (incl one in adjacent Texas). Normally when driving from MN we are too sick of driving to add the extra 1000 miles to pick up these parks. The drive down to Carlsbad started out pretty with a lot of green due to rains. Then south of I-40 progressively it got more desolate. Roswell was the first city after hours of driving, nice courthouse but skipped all the UFO stuff. Artesia is the next town south, VERY scruffy with all the oil drilling and refining, three out of four vehicles were a truck hauling something: acetylene tanks, a skid loader, whatever. Last came Carlsbad, really in a similar vein to Artesia, but a little nicer. After check-in at hotel drove the 40 minutes to Carlsbad Caverns National Park to see the bat exodus from the cave, happens at sunset. Made it with lots of time, quite the wonder to see the vortex of hundreds of thousands of bats swirling out into the dusky light.

Returned early the next morning, well at 8:30, to line up for a tour of the King’s Throne part of the cavern. Normally this could have been reserved online but with staff cuts they offer the tour on a day-by-day basis when staff is available and sell the 24 tickets at the visitor center at opening. We were fourth in line so got tickets. At 10:15 took the elevator down into the cavern, there’s a snack bar and flush toilets there underground. Tour took about 2 hours, park ranger was very (really much too) talkative, I would have been happy with a quarter of the words, but that’s the way it goes sometimes. Very nice formations on the tour and the sheer size of the cave complex is beginning to come into focus.

Went back up the elevator for a picnic lunch we brought, a bit of a struggle to find a picnic bench out of the sun but succeeded. At 1 pm or so we walked to the natural entrance where the bats leave in the evening to begin the 1 mile descent to the main cavern. I’ve never seen such an expansive entry to a cave, very high ceilings all the way down to the main level. The main cavern is hard to describe other than to say the big room is so vast and high, it takes another hour to just circle this room all the way around the perimeter. A person with claustrophobia will be fine in the cave it is that expansive. And unlike another large cave, Mammoth Cave, this one is wet and has good formations that are very pretty.

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PART 3

Spent the afternoon cave touring hours with an active duty medical doctor from California on a detail to a base at a nearby remote area. Needed to vent politically with kindred spirits. A really nice guy. We are lucky to have people like him who choose a lower salary when performing a public service.

Moving on to Texas, just a quick 2 hour hike at Guadalupe Mountains National Park to Smith Spring. Somehow I missed in planning the trip that the climate here is like Tucson so by 10 am in early September it is too hot to do much hiking. We picked the 400 ft gain Smith Spring hike and that was tiring enough to satisfy us that we did see a part of the park without risking our lives in that heat. Signs suggested no hiking after 2 PM for good reason. Gave the new cowboy hat a good workout here, no sunburn. Drove west to El Paso to turn right for Alamogordo back in New Mexico. El Paso was a striking town with a high mountain ridge cutting one part of the city off from the other. Almost to Alamogordo we hit the US customs citizenship check point. If you don’t already know these are all over the border area, been through a couple in Arizona several times, and can be 60 or more miles north of the border so unexpected. They ask your citizenship and if US is the reply and they believe you on you go. They often hire native Spanish speakers (for good reason) to man these posts and I am always tempted to reply, “And what is YOUR citizenship” but never do. It’s a crappy job to be out in some hot remote area quizzing drivers all day.*

Arrived at White Sands National Park by 6:30 pm for the sunset which was very pretty red with the clouds. Spent about an hour walking on the white dunes before sunset, strikingly white sand that looks like snow. Following day drove to ABQ, stopped at the highway sign for the Trinity A-bomb test site of 1945, realizing that the actual test site (open only twice a year) is a good 20 miles south of the highway and out of sight.

Stopped at a restaurant of the local Twisters chain in the Albuquerque’s South Valley to eat lunch before the flights. Wild that as soon as we ordered a Breaking Bad tour RV showed up and 30 tourists pile out and enter the restaurant. This was the restaurant used in the show's filming, if you remember Gus and all that. They pose in booths used for the TV show and beside Breaking Bad photos on the wall. Hard to believe Breaking Bad is still enough of a thing to support daily tours like this.

*Adding that these citizen checkpoints are not new. I asked a guy in my LA Fitness class who I knew grew up in El Paso how long the check south of Alamogordo has been operating and he said at least for 40 years.

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2970 posts

Enjoyed your trip report.

Been to Santa Fe once and would like to get back at least one more time.

Sometimes we Americans forget what a wonderful, beautiful and interesting country we have.

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1348 posts

Having visited all 50 US states there are 2 that stand out to me as being like different countries, one is Louisiana, the other New Mexico.

I have lived in both (currently living in one), and I agree with your assessment.

Nice trip report.