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Netherlands in January

I wanted to write a bit here about our trip to the Netherlands this January. We visited the cities and towns of Amsterdam, Delft, the Hague, Rotterdam, Utrecht, Kampen and Zwolle. Before talking a bit about our day-by-day itinerary, I wanted to be sure to share some important tips about traveling here!....

  1. You MUST buy your tickets for Anne Frank WEEKS in advance. I attempted to buy about 10 days ahead of time, and it was sold out. While Rick Steves and other books tell you to buy in advance, and I took them seriously, I had no idea exactly how far in advance to book. We ended up with a 3 hour wait, and it was cold and rainy that day.

  2. ATMs were easy to use here. We have Ally bank, an online bank, and our ATM card with a Mastercard logo worked fine. The ATMs are not as ubiquitous as elsewhere in europe, but ING and Rabobank have several locations in all the major cities that you will see as you explore.

  3. The trains were great, and easy, especially after we did our homework reading about them. If you want to buy tickets ahead of time (and I'll tell you why you might want to in a moment), you need to use the BELGIAN rail site (don't worry, no extra fees) - the Dutch site requires a Dutch bank card. If you do pre-buy this way, your ticket is good on any train between those two cities on that calendar day. The conductors are familiar with the Belgian tickets (our tickets were checked about half the time) and you can scan a barcode on the Belgian ticket if you encounter a gate in the station.

  4. It is entirely reasonable to buy your tickets at the rail stations - the trains are very frequent. But it is important to know that the options for paying (as an American) are 1) coins in the machine (no paper bills), 2) buying from a human agent at a service desk, or 3) use of a Visa/Mastercard with a chip and pin in some machines. Each of these comes with a silly fee of up to a euro per ticket (for not using a reusable/reloadable card as a Dutch citizen). So we used some combination of buying online ahead of time (to get us back to Schipol, for the more expensive legs of the trip), buying from the agent at a desk, and using coins for short trips. Most larger stations appear to have an agent to sell tickets but only during business hours.

  5. The Museumkaart/museum card was great. It paid for itself after a few museums, and allowed us to go into some small museums that we would have definitely skipped otherwise. I would strongly recommend buying the card at a quieter, off the beaten path, museum. This will be less stressful, and will allow you to visit Van Gogh, Anne Frank, or the Rijksmuseum with a better plan. The card IS accepted at the Mauritshuis in the Hague.

  6. I thought winter was a good time to visit. Things were cozy with some Christmas decorations left over. Besides, if you come from the American midwest or northeast, this will probably seem mild to you. It was rainy here and there. But the Rijksmuseum, Mauritshuis and others were uncrowded. Accomodations were cheap. I would take that trade-off. I thought Rick's description of this country as "wind swept" and dreary over the winter was a bit incomplete.

  7. There is more to the country than Amsterdam and a few cute small towns. I think Rick's book on the Netherlands is a bit too Amsterdam-centric. Some of our best memories were made exploring towns that weren't mentioned by him at all. Remember that in 2015 the internet is full of ideas for you - Yelp, TripAdvisor and others are full of information about where the locals go in any corner of any country.

  8. be on the lookout for businesses that do not take cash and take credit only. This can be frustrating as a traveler. This is true at Albert Heijn, and also at the Marqt. At Marqt we were caught with 20 euros worth of food and no Dutch card - luckily the machine accepted our American express without problem. We also came across restaurants in Utrecht and Amsterdam that did not take cash

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Day-by-Day

Day 1 - arrived in the morning, put our bags down, visited Rembrandt House. We liked this museum. It was a quick visit, and was a good place to buy the museum card. It let us see the bigger sights on a day when our jet lag was improving.

Day 2 - visited Anne Frank house in morning. As above, the wait was extremely long. The visit itself is on the quick end. After a pause for lunch and coffee, we visited the Verzetsmuseum (Resistance museum). Unfortunately the long wait at Anne Frank cut into our time at the second museum, which is worth a visit (especially with the museum card).

Day 3 - in the morning we visited the Rijksmuseum. Between the early hour and our museum card, we walked right in. After an excellent brunch, we hit the Van Gogh museum. This was a bit more crowded. Note that even with a museum card, you may have to wait in an outdoor "express line" that took us about 25 minutes. We had a total of three days of sightseeing in Amsterdam.

Day 4 - we spent most of this day in Delft, after a quick train ride from Amsterdam. We explored and visited the Vermeer Center. I thought the Vermeer center was pleasant and informative. There were no originals, costs 9 euros, and is not covered by the card. We grabbed a quick lunch, then took the train to the Hague, our next home base.

Day 5 - this was our day to explore the Hague. We started in the Mauritshuis which was quiet and easy. After that, we visited the peace palace/international court of justice. For most, this is a quick stop. There is a 45 minute audio tour of the visitor center. Only occasionally do they offer tours of the interior, and this is something that you book online ahead of time. After lunch, we stopped at the panorama mesdag, an odd little stop dedicated to the art of HW Mesdag and his panoramic painting of the beach, free with the museum card.

Day 6 - we took a day trip to Rotterdam. We walked around and saw the architecture. We had a nice time at the new market. We visited the museum boijmans van beuningen. This was a nice museum, and of course free with museum card. Most of the museum was quiet with the exception of the "from bosch to bruegel" exhibit, which was packed.

Day 7 - we left the Hague and spent most of the day in Utrecht. Utrecht was a great small city. We found great food and coffee, and liked museum speelklok (musical clock museum). From Utrecht, we took the train to Zwolle where we spent the last 3 nights. Zwolle was rainy but we found our place to stay without much difficulty.

Day 8 - in the morning we talk a day trip to nearby Kampen. Kampen was a charming and scenic small town. It is connected to Zwolle by a rail line that takes ten minutes. In Kampen, we walked around and got lunch. We also stopped into the kampen stedelijk museum. While much of this museum is Dutch only, it was pleasant to visit and warm up there for a bit with the museum card. Then we returned to Zwolle. We visited the Waanders in de Broeren bookstore, in a converted church.

Day 9 - we explored Zwolle. We went to the museum de fundatie (again, free with the museum card) - about 1/2 the museum was closed to swap out exhibitions, so this museum was free for everyone that day. The architecture was fun.

Day 10 - we took a train directly from Zwolle to Schipol and headed home.

For food, two highlights were "Bakers and Roasters", a New Zealand-inspired brunch spot with great coffee and juice, and "Meneer Smaakers" a burger spot in Utrecht with some of the best fries we've had a long time.

In terms of accomodations, things were affordable. In the Hague, we recommend the Holiday Inn Express, which was centrally located, clean, and came with free breakfast for 74 euros. In Zwolle we used AirBnB which worked well.

We would really recommend getting out and exploring the Netherlands a little bit. While our January trip was chilly, and occasionally rainy, the the deals and lack of crowds in most spots made it another great trip.

Posted by
985 posts

This sounds like a marvelous trip and I'm so happy to read that you got to visit so many places. It looks like you really did your homework and overall were well prepared. That makes all the difference!

Posted by
15781 posts

And you've found the major flaw in the RS country guide books . . . they are not complete, many worthwhile places aren't mentioned, while some "minor" ones get thorough coverage. I'm not knocking them, for the places they cover, they are invaluable. Still, it's good to use other resources in addition when planning a trip.

Thanks for the report, I enjoyed reading it, remember some places and noting others for a future trip.

Posted by
985 posts

Wonderful trip report! I did want to say that we shopped at Albert Heijn several times while in Amsterdam and we only used cash for our transactions.

Posted by
5837 posts

Nice report. Good read of your joy with "off season" travel. Thanks for the observations.

...you need to use the BELGIAN rail site....
Yes. To many Americans think that the only way to buy European rail is through RailEurope. I often get a better deal through the country's national rail company.

I think Rick's book on the Netherlands is a bit too Amsterdam-centric.
I believe that Rick is pretty clear that his guide books are not intended to be country encyclopedias. That said, I too enjoy places off the beaten path and have visited places not even covered by the more encompassing Lonely Planet guide books.

be on the lookout for businesses that do not take cash and take credit only.... We also came across restaurants in Utrecht and Amsterdam that did not take cash
Most interesting observation. We read in this travel forum so much of the opposite - businesses that only accept cash.