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Narrowboats, London, and Wales - Part 19 (Steam Train and "Dark" Territory)

On our last full day in Wales we rode the 25 mile long Welsh Highland Railway from Caernarfon to Porthmadog. The tracks are narrow gauge and the trains are pulled by steam locomotives. Because the route is so winding the locomotives are articulated. The round trip from Caernafon to Porthmadog is about five hours with a one-hour layover at Porthmadog. While purchasing our tickets I found the souvenir garment that I was looking for; a nice fleece jacket with Welsh Highland Railway crest embroidered on it.

While waiting for the train Karen noticed Buddleia (butterfly bush) was growing out of the crevices in the rock wall next to track. At our house she has to go to great effort to get it to grow in the garden.

The Welsh Highland Railway goes through the south side of Snowdonia. It is very scenic. There is plenty of opportunity to get pictures of mountains, valleys, farms, and sheep doing their thing. It is a single track railroad, but with traffic going in both directions. There are no signals on the wayside. I did not think about these facts until I saw a sign, as we entered a station, “End of Token Control”. Then it dawned on me. The railroad was un-signaled “dark territory”. A train would be allowed to enter a section of track only if the train driver had, in his hand, the token associated with that track section. The train drivers exchange tokens at the station at the center where the trains meet. Tokens are the oldest and now rarest form track occupancy permit used by railroads. We had quite an interesting discussion with the conductor about the Welsh Highland Railways control system. I don’t think he has this discussion with a customer very often. There is a picture of a train driver holding a token; it looks like a piece of pipe with a key hanging off of it. Before I retired I was responsible for building software for rail traffic control centers.

The train spends about an hour at Porthmadog where the locomotive is uncoupled from one end of the train and brought back to be coupled to the other end of the train, now the front end. We then started on our journey back to Caernarfon. But as we were pulling out of the station and while crossing a road the locomotive lost steam. We did not get explanation how that happened. But after a few minutes (it must have seemed like hours for the traffic waiting at the crossing) the train was pulled back into the station and the locomotive given a chance to build up steam again. The Welsh Highland Railway is steam powered, they have at least one diesel locomotive just in case.

During the return trip we ordered lunch. It was good but I don’t remember what it was. No Diet Coke or ginger beer with this lunch, we had Welsh hard cider and Welsh lager.

Not far from Caernarfon a fellow got on the train and struck up a conversation. He had a bag stuffed with cameras. He had noticed my Olympus EM5 which is fairly small camera with a retro look. The fellow thought that I was another film enthusiast. He had been waiting for the train to take pictures. We explained why it was late and that was when we learned about the backup diesel locomotive. The photographer never used digital, only film. So we had encountered a guy who was a “nut” squared; both a steam enthusiast and a film photography enthusiast.

After returning to Caernarfon we did our exploration of the castle.

Some pictures are at: https://goo.gl/photos/UzXb1e3GEhhNGMaTA

Posted by
470 posts

Michael, just wanted to say thank you for your terrific trip reports which I have been following with great interest. Never done a narrow boat trip, tho' seen a bit of Wales. Enough detail to get an understanding of how it all went. Very informative and helpful.
Katy

Posted by
619 posts

Another very interesting episode in this group of reports, which are not getting the responses they deserve. It makes a good change from all the questions about how to see the whole of southern England, together with a Beatles tour of Liverpool, in the space of a morning.

Although there are specialist varieties with different colours, which people buy for their gardens or to attract butterflies, buddleia is pretty much a weed through much of the U.K. It is commonplace growing in walls and rock faces, and is a nuisance because of the damage it can do. Cutting back buddleia is a common practice. Even if you want it, it still needs regular pruning. The U.S. also has weeds which we in the U.K. struggle to grow.

The Welsh Highland Railway is an enjoyable ride, but the return journey from Caernarfon to Porthmadog takes most of the day. From Porthmadog you can take another train, the Ffestiniog railway, to Blaenau Ffestiniog. This is an old slate railway which goes to the quarries up on the mountain, and is probably more scenic and exciting than the Welsh Highland. A real enthusiast might then take the regular train from Blaenau Ffestiniog to Conwy, and then get the bus back to Caernarfon, although I am not sure how early you would have to start to do it all in a day.