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Narrowboats, London, and Wales - Part 17 (Castles)

Wales is famous for castles and is full of castles, in all states of repair and disrepair. I became interested in Welsh castles when I read the status report written by James of Saint George to Edward I, the king. As I recollect his report said, in so many words “things are going well and we are making good progress. But I could use more people and more money.” I don’t think the language of project managers has changed since the pyramids were built!

Edward had built four great castles (Harlech, Conwy, Beaumaris, Caernarfon) as part of his campaign to subjugate the Welsh. James of Saint George built him four state of the art castles. The last to be built, Beaumaris, was to be greatest and grandest, but Edward lost interest as he was trying to subjugate the Scots. Most of us (Americans at least) know Edward I as the evil king in “Braveheart”.

We visited two castles, Beaumaris and Caernarfon. We visited them across two days.

It was wet and dreary on the day we visited Beaumaris Castle. The castle is in the town of Beaumaris. There is a big grass covered municipal parking area, so there is plenty of parking. Beaumaris is surrounded by a moat with water in it. We had visited castles elsewhere with moats, but not water. Originally the moat was to be salt water. Now it is fresh. The moat is inhabited by Swans. Karen let me climb up the wall, she passed. The wall is not as high as Caernafon, but is plenty high when you are of an age and the steps are wet. Wet steps were especially an issue when descending from the parapet.

After exploring Beaumaris Castle, we found a shop and rejuvenated ourselves by sitting down for a bit and having a spot of tea and some shortbread.

Caernafon Castle is much more imposing that Beaumaris. The wall and towers are higher. Some of the towers include turrets. I think that turrets were added more for a “coolness” factor than for defense. The castle was meant to be imposing and impressive as a fortress and as the seat of government in Wales. In the 20th century the investiture of the “Prince of Wales” took place in the castle. Edward II was born at Caernarfon in 1284. Edward I is said to have previously told the Welsh that he would name a “Prince born in Wales who did not speak a word of English” and then produced his infant son to their surprise.

As with Beaumaris much of the interior buildings of the castle are unfinished or missing. I climbed all the way to the top of the Eagle Tower. I was happy for the rope “rail” going both up and down.

The Caernarfon Castle contains the Regimental Museum of the Royal Welch Fusiliers. As with many regiments of the British Army they fought all over the world in the wars of the Empire and in both World Wars. What I found most interesting is that they fought at every one of Wellington’s battles from the Peninsular Campaign to Waterloo. I was going through the exhibits when a fellow came in and asked “where is the stuff from the Zulu War?” I explained that regiment of Zulu War fame was a different one (the 24th Foot, South Wales Borderers)

Some pictures are at: https://goo.gl/photos/UzXb1e3GEhhNGMaTA

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I have been following your posts and they are great. Especially love this one as I am a fan of ruined castles and will be visiting Wales next year.