With a new, twice-weekly, direct flight to Rome from our home airport in France, we decided to spend a week in the Naples area. We went the last week of March before the European spring breaks because tourist season explodes from then on. One drawback to our twice-weekly flight is arriving in Rome at 8 pm, which meant a night and dinner in Rome. We stayed next to the train station and thought we were back in France as every table in the restaurant we chose was occupied by French people. BTW, there was no pressure to tip, since the Italians know the French follow their customs.
The next day we took an Italo train to Naples and were met by the Monetti taxi company recommended by many on this Forum. I knew that our short timeframe would incur higher costs at times, and this was one of them. Our only time to go to Herculaneum would be arrival day, stopping for two hours on our way to Sorrento. Mr. Monetti and his son Christian dropped us off. There were no lines and no crowds, but I knew that with only two hours we would need a private guide if we wanted to make sense of this extraordinary site. Our guide was well worth it. In fact, what is excavated is only what has become accessible, the rest sitting under present day buildings. Experts aren’t sure how large the site could be. What we did understand is that people died of the heat and gas. A haunting photo in the on-site museum is of a skeleton arm with all the gold rings on the clutching fingers. Memento mori.
Day 3 Two transportation tips: we took the 10:00 Circumvesuviana train to Pompeii for an 11:00 Mondo Shared Tour. The Circumvesuviana was extremely late, which we learned is normal. The others on the tour had taken the 9:30 train and were fine. To return we took the Campania Express. When buying, you have to say Campania Express or you will automatically be sold a Circumvesuviana ticket. A lot of surprised people thought they had bought Express tickets but were left on the platform because they had Circumvesuviana.