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Naples old town

I just returned from a wonderful 2 week trip to Rome, Positano and Naples. I knew to expect different levels of cleanliness and overall ambiance in each city. Each hotel we stayed at was unique. We were able to stay in historic centers in Rome and Naples. I have stayed and been extremely happy in 3 star hotels in Amalfi, Rome, Florence, and Lake Como. We stayed at an incredible 4 star hotel in Venice so I was beyond excited to finish our trip with the last 2 nights in Naples at a 4 star hotel, Decumani Hotel de Charme. The website says :
The Decumani Hotel de Charme is a charming hotel located in the heart of Naples, Italy. It is situated in a historic building, specifically the Palazzo Riario Sforza, which was once the residence of Cardinal Sisto Riario Sforza.

The hotel itself was okay - not as nice as all of the 3 star hotels we have stayed in. I can see maybe 20 years ago it was something really special- the breakfast room itself was beautiful- the food was disappointing. The real issue was the historic old town area. It was filthy. Broken glass all around the piazza, cigarette butts thrown to the ground and trash piled up in the street and graffiti everywhere. It was tragic seeing swastikas spray painted on churches and the Madonnas outside the church entrances.

It was a different world when we got to the main street and went to the newer section of town where there were wide esplanades, cobbled streets with shops on the ground floor with apartments above. There was not one ounce of graffiti anywhere there but the old town area was riddled with it. Perhaps it is due to the fact there is a university near the old town. It was odd. I wanted to warn others to perhaps avoid staying in this area of Naples unless you don't mind the trash and graffiti. I wish we had stayed in another area.

Posted by
4580 posts

We did a 3 hour tour that mainly consisted of historic Naples and saw what you described. Our guide was so proud of Naples but also embarrassed by the garbage and graffiti; especially the graffiti on Greek and Roman columns. I also had a friend that stayed in historic Naples last year a week before me. Her quote in a text to me,
"I freaking adore it. It is chaotic, crazy, exhilarating, dirty and wonderful all at the same time."

Personally, I can't wait to go back and I'm intrigued to stay in the area because it was magnificently chaotic. But I also wonder when push comes to show if we'll stay somewhere less rough looking.

Posted by
6441 posts

Westie, Is there a neighborhood in Naples that you feel would be a better place to stay? We'd like to be in Naples to go to the archaeology museum, look at nativity figures (I think I heard they are sold year round) and get pizza. From Naples, we'll head to Puglia and eastern Basilicata, possibly making a slight detour to Caserta.

Posted by
1568 posts

This opinion is based on a week's visit to Naples several years ago, but we liked our apartment just off the via dei Tribunali and thought that the whole street was fine, but especially the west end (where we stayed and what's closest to the archeology museum). It's parallel to and one block north of the Spaccanapoli.

To hear about the swastika graffiti is heart-breaking.

Posted by
38 posts

I really enjoyed the San Ferdinando area and near the port seemed nicer to me. Honestly, had my 6’2” husband not been with me I would have moved hotels. The San Ferdinando area mentioned reminded me of architecture of Barcelona or Paris. There were apartments above the restaurants in that area and lots of hotels near the port. I would try to stay there if we ever return . It was lovely and felt safe. We walked from there to our hotel after dinner and the closer we got the streets got smaller and dirtier. I sound terribly prudish, but I was quite taken aback.

Posted by
2547 posts

We stayed at the Grand Hotel Oriente on the RS Southern Italy tour and it was really nice. We never felt unsafe in that area. The breakfast was really good (and included my favorite sfogliatella) and was served on the top floor of the hotel with wonderful views. We also had cocktails up there in the evening on the outside patio. We have been to Naples twice and it is not my favorite place as it is dirty and gritty as mentioned but does have some interesting things to see.

Posted by
884 posts

Hmmm, I’m sorry you had this experience with the Decumani Hotel de Charme. We stayed there in February and we were happy with the hotel and location. We were there 3 nights. We thought the breakfast was very good and the breakfast room was truly magnificent. We did not feel unsafe in the area.

Just wanted to post since we had such a different experience.