I took my third solo trip to Italy in September. This time, I concentrated on Naples and Rome: 5 nights in Naples and 4 nights in Rome. I was much more familiar with Rome than I was with Naples. I had spent one day in Naples about 12 years ago and all we did was the archaeological museum and ate pizza.
I flew Delta round trip from Tampa to Rome. All my flights were smooth and on time. Passport control in and out of Rome was a breeze as they were not doing the EES fingerprinting. I headed to Naples via train the same day I arrived in Rome.
NAPLES
Took a taxi from the train station to Hotel Piazza Bellini and got there mid-afternoon. Thanks to those who have recommended this hotel on the forum, it was wonderful. Excellent location, very clean, quiet, very good breakfast and friendly staff. It’s a short walk to the Dante metro stop. Several restaurants close by to choose from.
Walking food tour - booked through Get Your Guide. Very enthusiastic and entertaining guide. We braved the crowded cobblestone streets of Centro Storico. We sampled buffalo mozzarella and other snacks, fried pizza and margherita pizza, aperol spritz, limoncello, and of course gelato. The group was very friendly and we had a good time chatting with each other. One of the ladies and I met later that evening for dinner, so that was fun.
Sansevero Chapel - this was on my must-see list and it did not disappoint! The Veiled Christ is stunning and the other sculptures are wonderful as well. I recommend getting the audio guide for a few more euros, it helped me understand the art so much better.
Herculaneum - booked a group tour with an archeologist through Get Your Guide. The company was Askos Tours. Took the local train to Herculaneum. Not sure of the exact train, I just asked someone at the station. Tapped in and out on the trains, and was charged about $12 total. Excellent guide, she told us so many things about how the city was affected by the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius and how it was different from what happed at Pompeii. Lots of walking and a few steep curbs to navigate.The frescoes were beautiful and one large fresco still had such vibrant colors. I’m so glad I took the tour, it made the experience much more enjoyable and memorable.
Duomo di Napoli and the Treasures of San Gennaro - gorgeous church and it was interesting to see the robes and jewels that are used for the bust of San Gennaro when they have the festival each year. Also used an audio guide for this that gave descriptions of the other items. It’s a pretty small museum, so doesn’t take long to see it.
Pio Monte della Misericordia museum - went here just to see Caravaggio’s The Seven Works of Mercy. I really like his art and this was spectacular. It costs €10 to visit this museum, but luckily I was there on the day when many museums in Italy are free.
Monumental Complex of Santa Chiara - absolutely gorgeous! The frescoes on the walls and the Majorcan tiles and columns in the garden are so beautiful. It was peaceful and not too crowded, so I just stayed a while. One of my favorite places in Naples.
Royal Palace - the marble staircase was just magnificent. The rooms were interesting with gold leaf on the ceilings and the other art and fancy furniture. It didn’t take very long to go through it. The signs explaining the rooms and their history were in Italian and English.
I loved Naples and wished I had another day or two to visit. My favorites were Herculaneum, the Santa Chiara complex, and Sansevero.
(See comments for Rome report)