Day 4: Today we decided to finish visiting what we could of the canal houses.
We began with museum Van Loon, a beautiful house with gardens that stretch to the coach house behind. How luxurious to have two lots! The house had many interesting rooms and was worth the visit. Alas, the coach house was being reading for a party the next day so we were unable to enter that section.
Next we walked to Geelvinck Hinlopen Huis, Many beautiful pianos and a wonderful stroll through the garden but the home itself only had four rooms open to the public. We were followed around by two older ladies drinking tea who watched us constantly as if we were going to attempt to steal something - off putting to say the least. Simply not worth the visit unless you have a museumkaart as there is not much to see.
I was excited about our next museum as I have worked in cat rescue for many years and own seven cats. I had to get to KattenKabinet! Downstairs a gift shop with a cat sunbathing in the window, but upstairs many beautiful art prints, posters, figurines of cats, with a live cat winding its way through the rooms to receive petting. This is cash only - 7E for entrance.
From KattenKabinet we strolled the opposite side of the Herengracht and came across a restaurant with canal side seating - a Greenwoods! We enjoyed wine, truffle ravioli, and wonderful barbecue sandwich piled so high with goodies it had to be eaten with a fork.
More evening strolling...
Day 5: Today we walked to the Van Gogh museum. Even with museumkaarts we had to stand in a long line about 30 minutes in order to receive another ticket to enter the museum. I loved seeing paintings that I had only seen in books. The museum was not overly crowded but we were surprised at the rudeness of people who just shoved their way in front of you. I began standing close enough to the art work where there wasn't room to push in front. A long walk home, followed by the rest of our picnic purchases from the Saturday market.
Day 6: Today we walked 15 minutes to Centraal, bought train tickets, and hopped the next train to Zwolle, about an hour ride from Amsterdam. We were met by one of dh's former student and husband, "The Whiskey Couple". Haans has lived all of his life in Zwolle and he and Becky gave us a most excellent tour of the old city where they are well known. Historic candy shops, whiskey tasting, churches, neighborhood pub, and a lovely dinner. They really should be official tour guides for the city! A late train ride and walk back to the apartment.
Day 7: Almost time to move to Haarlem so today is laundry day. Oh gosh, machines are so different here. Even with verbal and written directions I was unable to get the washer in the basement to do more than beep at me. We ended up washing by hand, and carried clothes down to the dryer. Argh - the dryer! It would evaporate water and condense it into a little tray that had to be emptied. I ran my clothes for two hours only to find a steaming hot, wet mass of clothing. Total user error! Everything was taken back upstairs and hung to dry. We left the apartment and just wandered Amsterdam, walking over into the RLD, grabbing some frites with satesauce (delicious), and shopping for a cheap pair of slippers. We wandered the city into early evening, sad that we were leaving.
Posted by
OP
Orange Park, Fl
985 posts
Day 8: We packed up, slid the key under the door, and carried our backpacks to Centraal. Today it is much busier and I unfortunately chose the line with people who had a million questions. After about 20 minutes I had our tickets to Haarlem. Note: there are two Haarlem stops. Don't get off on the first one! We arrived and walked into town, finding the Ambassador without much problem. We left our bags in a locked room and took off to the V&D department store for lunch. On the 6th floor there is La Place (soups, sandwiches, salads, and desserts) and we carried our trays up one floor and ate out on the rooftop. Wonderful views of the city! We returned to check into our room and then left for more exploration, stopping to visit the Archaeology museum, and then wandering to find the location of Corrie Ten Boom Huis. Dinner and a quick visit to High Times and we were in for the night. My hotel complaint: although roomy, there is no fan in the bathroom so both rooms stay very humid. Clothes dry sloooooow.
Day 9: We had failed to notice that the Corrie Ten Boom tours were given in different languages at different times so we had half an hour to squander - easy to do as the Saturday market was set up. We returned and were first in line for those with no reservations. The tour was free and simply wonderful with a knowledgeable hostess who told us the story of Corrie's life and history of the house. Note: This tour was so much better than the Anne Frank Huis - simply no comparison. We enjoyed the open market some more, walked to Bij Babette's for lunch with a shared dessert, and then trekked over to Teyler's museum - fantastic museum!!! Lots of fossils, rocks, minerals, as well as art work. We then wandered the canal coming to a huge windmill. At this point we turned as it was getting quite cool and breezy. After a light snack we decided to chill at High Times for awhile and then called it a night. Tomorrow we begin our RS BOE 21!
Posted by
OP
Orange Park, Fl
985 posts
We were busy at it every day. Even though we had both climbed lots of stairs at the hospital and walked miles in our neighborhood, it was different walking on cobblestones and I did have some blisters even though both shoes were well broken in. I took two different pairs - Presidios for when I would really be hoofing it, and Alegrias for lighter or evening strolling. It was nice to have different fitting shoes. I also took a pair of sandals to use as slippers/light walking and was so glad I had them for Monterosso, Italy. Others were wearing boots, me sandals lol. I did end up buying some cheap slippers which I left in the trash can in Paris.
We missed so much over there - Zaanse Schans, Delft, Leiden, Bruges.... we will simply have to go back. Most people spoke English, were kind and helpful, and we never felt unsafe, even late at night.
Posted by
Coeur d’Alene, Idaho, USA
13927 posts
Excellent Trip Report! I have to say I laughed out loud when I got to the part about the laundry. Yikes!
And your comments about the shoes is so important. It is just so hard to imagine how different it is to walk on cobblestones vs asphalt!
Posted by
franktown, colorado
2252 posts
Wonderful trip report! And I had to smile at your last sentences: it's often said to "always leave something/someplace to come back for.......". Enjoy your RS tour and I'll look forward to more of your posts!
Posted by
St. Louis, MO USA
1976 posts
Great report!
I was struck by your sentence "We missed so much over there..." That's always a dilemma for me when I travel. In London, for example, I was so close to so many places I wanted to go - Wales, Scotland, Iceland, Ireland - that it was almost maddening at times. I saw lots of ads for travel to Dublin on the Tube and I thought, It's only an hour flight from London. I could totally go there for a couple days! That constant tug is why we have to go back!
Posted by
OP
Orange Park, Fl
985 posts
Pam - yes, I imagine my feet were doing circles in my shoes and toes working side to side. And that laundry - whew! We used different machines twice later on.
Andi - no chance of doing it all in a week, even a month! I did feel comfortable enough with the city that I was asked for directions several times by other tourists and was able to tell them how to get where they wanted. We are actually home from the 21 day tour - flew back this past Saturday.
Sarah - yes, I kept thinking about the things we weren't seeing but there really was not time. We stayed out all day every day! But that's okay. We fell so totally in love with Amsterdam that we will go back. I loved the lively city, so much to do and look at.
Posted by
Coeur d’Alene, Idaho, USA
13927 posts
Nance, you know what I think helped me with cobbles? I use a fitness product called a BOSU.
I stand on it barefoot with the flat side up and do about 5 different positions including some one foot balance positions. When I started last year before the 21 BOE I had to hold on to something to be able to stand on it but now even just doing it occasionally my balance has changed enough I can manage without holding on. It does help with that feeling (and really I know exactly what you mean) that your foot is circling, lol!
PS Have no interest in the BOSU company other than I use one for balance training.
Posted by
OP
Orange Park, Fl
985 posts
Thanks for the link, Pam. I will definitely consider getting my feet better prepared for next time!
Posted by
Edmonton, Alberta
796 posts
Dryers in Europe: worthless! I do not think you did anything wrong, they do not do the job. I have used dryers in French rentals and found it easier to just put everything on the bathroom towel rack, heated if lucky! How they dry towels is my question???
Thanks for the reports. I enjoyed reading of your adventures.