My Last Two Weeks in the UK

The Malthouse is a pub & restaurant with hotel rooms spread across several buildings. I booked one of their “suite-superior-ensuite" rooms and was accommodated in a of their ground floor room with a walk-in shower – their Lounge Suite. It’s on a secluded courtyard shared with another room and my room had its own conservatory & lounge area, it was a rather large bedroom, with a very spacious shower room. Booked breakfast with the room, and I enjoyed the ease of having breakfast and supper at The Malthouse and lunch at museum cafés.

Friday 4 October went to Blist Hill Victorian Town and spent the day there. It was fun to watch the various school groups on field trips visiting the museum, and I didn't have to talk to them – I'm on vacation. One of the neat, fun little activities is that Blist Hill has a bank where visitors can trade modern money for pre-decimalized money, that then can be spent through the town. I’m always entertained watching the confusion over pre-decimalized money. Saturday 5 October used the local bus to travel to the Coalbrookdale Museum of Iron and Abraham Darby's iron furnace. Had a pleasant guided tour of the site and geeked out on iron history and took many selfies at the furnace. Looked back photos I took when I visited in 2016, and boy I had a lot less gray hair. Then I walked the mile back down to Ironbridge. Friday and Saturday night The Malthouse had live music, a couple cover bands doing 80s, 90s and 00s. That was fun and enjoyable.

Sunday 6 October was my last full day in Ironbridge. After breakfast I walked to the remains of the Bedlam Furnace, which is believed to be the location where the parts of the Iron Bridge were cast and is the subject of the 1801 painting Coalbrookdale at Night – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Madeley_Wood_Company#/media/File:Philipp_Jakob_Loutherbourg_d._J._002.jpg – which is one of my favorite pieces of art.

While at the furnace I could see the various walking trails climbing up behind the furnace. What the heck, why not! and I started up a hiking trail, probably a almost a half mile up and into the woods. I told myself this was far enough and not get myself too deep where I can't get myself out and turned back. I walked back to town and got drawn into a very tiny little shop, I don't know if it's considered a tearoom or a café or cheese shop. Small narrow space, their kitchen was downstairs in the cellar, and then up a narrow steep staircase was the dining space with 6 tables and maybe seating for 12. Here I had one of the simplest, most delicious lunches – mushrooms on toast topped with Montagnolo cheese, then a small piece of goose egg lemon curd cake.

After lunch I spent time admiring the beauty of the Iron Bridge, especially after its 2017 restoration. As supper time approached it was starting to rain and I couldn't help but to admire the beauty of the evening, the cool temps, the last of evening twilight, the patter of the rain and wisps of clouds slipping over the crests of the hills. Then spent the rest of the evening sitting in the conservatory/lounge area listening to the rain against the plexiglass roof.

Monday 7 October was my travel day, moving on to Manchester. Had breakfast and afterwards stepped outside into the morning twilight, rain had stopped, clouds thinned and I walked back to the Iron Bridge and snapped a couple beautiful photographs of the bridge silhouetted against the river and sunrise peeking into the Gorge.

I'd come to Ironbridge to enjoy the iron & industrial history and worship at the altar of the iron gods, but it got me in another way. Ironbridge reminds me of an Appalachian Trail town. Think of a place like Harpers Ferry – the old historic town, the texture of the day, the smell of the damp woods, the breeze, rain clouds rolling in, licks of autumn color on the leaves. After my accident it's been easy to accept I'm not getting on a bicycle again, I'm not accepting much anymore that there would be no more hiking and camping. The more that I've walked this past year, the more that I tell myself that I could hike again, and my visit to Ironbridge just pumped that fire even more. Sitting in the hotel room conservatory listening to the rain took me back to the nights in camp, laying in my hammock and listening to the rain beating on my tarp. I'm intending to step on the AT at some point in 2025. I just have to do more work to get my hiking legs back under me and accustomed to carrying a 20lbs pack again.

Checked out of the Malthouse and took the train from Telford to Manchester, and checked into Whitworth Locke. As I got off the train and walked up the platform to the gates, my arm was suddenly grabbed and pulled by a very desperate and confused lady. Poor lady, I’m just a random passenger and I have no idea how I could have ever helped her. As soon as she grabbed me, station attendants swarmed over and extracted me and calmed her down. Locke was an easy 0.5 mile walk from the station carrying my two cases and an EDC bag.

I really didn't have much of anything planned for Manchester. I left the afternoon and evening of 7 October open and only planned to do a load of laundry. I went out for supper to an Indian restaurant and a Tesco Express was right across the street from Locke so I picked up some items to cook for breakfasts. I also left 8 October as an open day and only accomplished a visit to the Manchester Museum.

For the 9th I'd booked a tour of Snowdonia, North Wales, and Chester with Rabbie's. Wednesday was a rainy morning and only 5 people were taking the tour. A big plus in my book. Drove out of Manchester to Conwy to visit the castle and town. I spent time at the castle but decided to cut that short. It was raining, the stone was very slick, and while I would have assaulted their towers and spiral staircases, this day was not the day to do it and I thought better of it. I didn't want to become an issue and impact anyone else's day. I headed into town and visited the smallest house in Great Britain and then happened to find a yarn shop, and thankfully only did £46 damage. We drove up into the National Park. Stopped in Betws–y–Coed for lunch, then continued on to Chester for a couple hours before returning to Manchester.

I may have done Manchester dirty. Except for the Rabbie's tour I planned nothing and did nothing. When I was planning this trip I wanted to split Ironbridge and London, stick something between them and see how I'd handle another train journey and location switch. The selection of Manchester was outside of my 16th/17th century interest and was a matter of just closing my eyes and sticking my thumb on the map.

Thursday 10 October brought my time in Manchester to an end and it was time to head to London. Took the 11:55am Avanti train to Euston and then a cab to Locke-at-Broken-Wharf. Once checked in I headed over to Covent Garden for a couple hours and then settled back in the room for the night.

Friday 11 October made a return visit to the Tower of London and spent a few hours there before walking over London Bridge and briefly visited Borough Market. On Saturday I headed over to Leadenhall Market then on to Camden Market and Sunday I went over to Portobello Road Market.

Monday I planned a visit to Windsor Castle. More than anything I had to visit St George's Chapel. As I headed out there was going to be something going on at St Paul's that would apparently include the King. All sorts of black SUVs escorted by police, St Paul's was closed for the day, roads were going to be closed, and crowd barriers set up. Got into St Paul's tube station and found ALL the escalators going up, but none going down and I'd have to go down the stairs to the platform. That's always fun when I always have to step down first on the left leg. When I got back into London there were a lot of police officers as I came out of the St Paul's tube station. I was tired, got some groceries and just hid in my hotel the rest of the night.

Tuesday 15 October, went out for a walk and swung by Borough Market. Stopped in Neal's Yard Dairy for cheese to take home and then by Whirled for some black licorice fudge to also carry home. Back at my hotel I got everything sorted, organized and packed to return home on Wednesday. Came home On UA919 and Now waiting on my flight to Richmond.

I really like reading your trip reports, last year’s and now this year’s. Your determination always leaves me with optimism (I hope that makes some kind of sense). Plus you see some places that aren’t on the run-of-the-mill tourist plan. But be careful - Manchester can grow on you! Lol.

VAP, I am kind of late reading about your accident, recovery and former trip. What an incredible life story you are continuing to add to! Your inner will and strength to see your travel goals achieved is admirable. I’m really amazed by your fortitude! Thanks for sharing your experiences about some of the ironwork places in England I don’t know much about.

Hi - Just a question, perhaps I misunderstood. Is "Maizey" a pet? Is she getting fed while you are away? Saw "she will be fed up on my return."

I enjoyed your account of your trip. I'm sorry about the bike accident. As a fellow hiker I believe you can hike again. Speed and distance aren't as important as people think. It's moving meditation.

So happy to read your report and that you were able to finally make your trip. Interesting places visited. I’m going down a rabbit hole reading up about the places you mention.

Pleased to see your trip report. Oddly I had one of these disconnected thoughts that you were around Telford somewhere like now when I was on the Stafford Railway Station to Telford bus last week.

By the way you did miss things in Manchester, but it doesn't matter. The city goes back to Roman times, and really grew exponentially during the Industrial Revolution so there was/is a synergy there.
Always a good excuse to come back.

But be careful - Manchester can grow on you!

Of course!

By the way you did miss things in Manchester, but it doesn't matter.

Quite a lot that I missed. Manchester was a victim of the way I structured my visit, something to break up the time between Ironbridge and London. But it also gave me more time on trains and helped put to rest my nagging concern regarding getting in and out of seats and the amount seat pitch and clearances beneath seats.

...Is "Maizey" a pet? Is she getting fed while you are away? Saw "she will be fed up on my return."

LoL yes, Maizey is my dear corn snake. Generally she gets fed every 10-14 days, so I can feed her before I leave and then again when I return. At this time though, she's begun a blue phase. It's the period before she sheds when her coloring gets very dull, her eyes get cloudy and develop skin caps. She's not comfortable in her skin at this point and she'll stay burrowed, won't stir, and does not show interest in food. It'll now be about Sunday or Monday before she shows interest in food again.

Mustlovedogs & TexasTravelMom, thank you. I gotta just keep sucking it up and getting on with it.

Leslie, to get comfortable with the thought of hiking again I've had to learn how to flop myself on the ground and get myself back up again. I've been eyeing getting a pair of these trekking poles -- https://lekiusa.com/collections/trekking/products/legend-black-carbon?variant=46106174062886

Thanks for the report, VAP! I really enjoyed reading it! Lucky you, to have such a convenient way to get to the airport! One more reason I miss living in a big city.

After your explanation about Maisie, I looked up corn snakes, and they sound really interesting. I do like snakes—I found a blue indigo snake once when I was visiting a friend in Florida (back in my late teens) and carried it around on my shoulders for a few days. There is something very soothing about snakes (well, the non-venomous ones, lol!).

mushrooms on toast topped with Montagnolo cheese, then a small piece of goose egg lemon curd cake.

Ah, one of my favorite feel good meals that I picked up while living in England, mushrooms on toast. And now I'm off to the grocery store for mushrooms. Wonder if they'll have lemon curd cake. I'll just pretend I'm having it in a tiny little shop, "up a narrow steep staircase [in a] dining space with 6 tables and maybe seating for 12."

I enjoyed reading your descriptions. And I really love how you cast your stay around Ironbridge. I don't have any connection to iron works, but you made it sound very appealing!

Mardee, snakes are absolutely fascinating. There are a few worm snakes that live in my coal pile, but eastern black rat snakes are very common at work and they exist in an outdoor museum exhibit area with lots of visitors so they're comfortable around people, not skittish and very docile. During summer it is very common to see them out and about. They even have names. One big girl I used to hand feed eggs to. Who would have ever have thought that when mentoring new staff and youth volunteers on chicken care, I'd teach about paying the egg tax, and be nice to the blacksnake in your coop.

CWsocial, so simple and so obvious, how is it I'd never thought of mushrooms and cheese on toast? Worse yet, why was this the first time I encountered it on a menu in England?

Worse yet, why was this the first time I encountered it on a menu in England?

Based only one London friend's comments to me years ago, I am going to say that it would be like having peanut butter and jelly on the menu in the US. As much as we might love it at home, would we ever order it at a restaurant? ;-)

Having said that, I had an upscale version of mushrooms with grated cheese on toast as an appetizer in Stockholm. I wonder what my London friend would think of that? And, or greater concern, what would she think of me for ordering it!

BTW - if you make mushrooms on toast at home, I've found a drizzle of fresh lemon (from my lemon tree is best) to be a lively addition.

VAP, that sounds so cool! The only snakes I've ever had around me were the garter (garden?) snakes that used to coil up in a pile on the sunny stones near my garden in the spring. I loved watching them, though, and always welcomed their presence.

CWSocial, if I ever pass your way, can I stop by your lemon tree and pick one? I've always wanted to pick one from a tree. :-)

Mardee, if you pass my way during lemon season (which would be fabulous!) you can pick a dozen or a couple of dozen. Last year my tree had hundreds! The tree was the very first thing I planted at this house, with a Sorrento-driven vision of bowls of lemons every day.

For things like mushrooms on toast!

You are an excellent writer and I so enjoyed reading your travel experience. Thank you!

Mardee, if you pass my way during lemon season (which would be fabulous!) you can pick a dozen or a couple of dozen.

That's definitely worth a trip to CA! That, of course, and the pleasure of your company. ☺