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My first tour: Loire to the South of France

I just finished my first Rick Steves tour, Loire to the South of France, on July 1, and I am happy to say it was above and beyond what I hoped for. Last spring when the tours were released, I floated the idea to my mom–what if we did a tour together, just the two of us? She was in! (I should add here that my husband deserves major credit, as he held down the fort at home and cared for our kids–which I am endlessly thankful for, and grateful for the opportunity to travel with my mom). My mom has taken several tours before, in fact she and my dad did the Turkey tour earlier this spring. As for this tour recap, I plan to share some highlights of each destination, as well as my thoughts as a first time tour traveler. I have traveled to Europe several times: as a high school student with a school group, a post-college backpacking trip, a few trips with my husband, and more recently, two family trips with kids, one to Ireland and one to Italy and Switzerland. I love family travel, but this was an opportunity to travel with just my mom. We both have milestone birthdays coming up next year, I will be 40, and she will be (redacted). :)

Packing/Logistics
I brought a carry-on rolling suitcase (Eddie Bauer brand), a small REI daypack, and a leather crossbody purse. My suitcase weighed 19.5 pounds and I carried it on (though the strict Icelandair agent in Seattle made me put it in the bag sizer and weighed it carefully). He was very by the book. I can post what I packed if people are interested. My mom checked her bag (same bag, but her bag was heavier). Icelandair has a small personal item requirement, and I got my backpack through by putting a few things in my suitcase and keeping my purse inside my daypack. The daypack fit comfortably under the airplane seat, however. We arrived at Seatac airport around 3 hours early, and the security line was a breeze thanks to TSA pre-check. The 7 hour flight to Iceland went by pretty quickly, and I tried my best to get some sleep. We arrived at Keflavik airport to blue sky and sun, where we had an hour and 20 minute layover. That was more than sufficient and after a minute of searching around, we found our way to passport control. Our 3.5 hour flight to Paris CDG also went smoothly, and I slept for most of that flight. In Paris, we had to wait for my mom’s bag for about an hour. Our original plan was to take the train to Chartres, but there was rail work on the train line, meaning our train options were severely limited. I had found a few routes that worked, but they would have involved several changes, and also–it was to be 100 degrees in Paris when we landed! Trying to navigate through the Paris Metro when we were hot, tired, and jetlagged did not sound pleasant, so we booked a private transfer. That worked wonderfully aside from our minor snafu of getting in the wrong car at first (he had the same name as our driver!). Finally we found our driver and we were on our way to Chartres, trying to enjoy the scenery but also dozing along the way.

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Chartres
We arrived around 4:30 and got checked into our tour hotel, Hotel Campanile Chartres. Our room was tidy and comfortable, though for some reason I cannot remember too much about it. I am not clear on if there was no AC, or if the AC was broken. After freshening up a bit, we went for a walk and made our way over to the cathedral. I remembered reading about Cafe Bleu on the forum and in the book, so we had dinner there. My croque monsieur was delicious, as was the burrata we shared. After dinner, we got an ice cream and walked around the cathedral a bit, before going back to our hotel room and crashing by 9pm.

Our tour started the next day. We met some fellow tour members at breakfast, and had a nice time getting to know them. Otherwise we spent some time walking around Chartres and exploring near the cathedral, which had a church service going on. For lunch we shared a baguette sandwich and enjoyed sitting outside at a cafe. In the afternoon, we went back to the hotel to rest a bit before meeting our tour group. Our welcome meeting was at 5pm, though our guide Julie posted on the tour itinerary that she would be in the lobby 30 minutes early checking CDC cards. Our welcome meeting took about an hour. There were 26 people on our tour, including my mom and me, a family of three with a teenager, five people traveling together, several couples, and several solo travelers. During the meeting we had a few small snacks and some drinks, went over tour expectations and logistics, and chose our buddies. After our welcome meeting, we re-grouped with our whisper phones and did a walking tour of Chartres before dinner at…Cafe Bleu! Dinner was excellent, with a cool asparagus soup, roast chicken, a potato dish, and a chocolate brownie type dessert. A glass of wine was included with dinner. After dinner, we went to the hotel briefly, and it was starting to cool down and cloud up. I convinced my mom that we should walk over to the Chartres cathedral for the light show, so we did that despite stormy looking skies. Though it rained and there was some thunder and lightning, it was an incredible experience.

Our next day in Chartres, we had a walking tour through town, which was one of my favorite things in Chartres. I enjoyed the refresher on gothic architecture, complete with a demo thanks to some good sport tour members, as well as learning about the use of the arithmetic knotted rope. We then had a tour of the cathedral with Malcom Miller, who was incredibly knowledgeable, though a bit hard to hear. For lunch, we went to La Picoterie, where I had a delicious raclette crepe and a small cider, and my mom had a huge salad that was also quite good. After lunch, we reconvened for the stained glass museum and presentation. It was interesting, though by that point, jet lag was hitting me hard. That night we had a lovely dinner at an Italian restaurant, and were also joined by two of our tour mates. Since it had been so rainy the night before, we decided to go see Chartres en lumières one more time. It was just as magical the second time! Sometime after 11pm, we headed back to the hotel to pack up and collapse into bed.

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Chinon
After Chartres, it was off to Chinon! We met our bus driver Joseph, who was fantastic, and hit the road. The bus was very comfortable, though my understanding was that it was a replacement bus, as our original was not available. It did have USB adapters at each seat but no wi-fi.

On the way to Chinon, we stopped in Amboise, which was a cute town. We opted to visit Chateau du Clos Luce, where Leonardo da Vinci once lived. Though I enjoyed the indoor portion, I really enjoyed the gardens and looking at some of the large replicas of his inventions. We also had a nice lunch outside at a cafe. On the way to our next stop, Château de Chenonceau, our guide Julie gave an excellent overview of the chateau’s history. I loved all of our tour bus “lectures,” but this was one of the most entertaining, as we learned the rather salacious history of Henry II. The chateau was stunning, but I again really loved seeing the gardens and the grounds from the outside. I should add that by this point in the tour, we were getting quite the mixed bag of weather, with clouds, sunbreaks, rain, and thunderstorms. On the plus side, I felt like the clouds made the pictures of the chateaus even more dramatic.

In Chinon, we stayed at Hotel Diderot, which was one of my favorites. It is run by Jamie, who is American, and Jean-Pierre, who is French. We had a ground floor room which opened up to the leafy garden. The rooms were beautiful, and I enjoyed being able to have a glass of wine in the garden courtyard. They make their own jams there, and Jean-Pierre did a wonderful wine tasting that most of our group opted to join. Chinon was also where one of my favorite group dinners was, at Au Chapeau Rouge. I had sea bream, which was in a delicious saffron sauce, shared a nice bottle of rose, and had the chocolate cherry dome for dessert. Delicious!

For day two of tour de chateaus, we visited Villandry and Azay-le-Rideau. I enjoyed them both, but by that point I was hurrying through the interiors a bit more. I thought the gardens at Villandry were stunning and incredibly ornate. The moat at Azay-le-Rideau made for beautiful pictures to capture the reflection of the chateau, and we had a nice lunch at the cafe there.

Sarlat
On our way to Sarlat, we stopped at Oradour-sur-Glane, which I knew would be difficult, but I was very interested in visiting. I was not familiar with what happened here until a few years ago, when I read “The Alice Network” by Kate Quinn. It was an incredibly moving and difficult place to visit, and it is hard to put into words what the experience was like. Seeing the town frozen in time and knowing that so many suffered unspeakable horrors was utterly heartbreaking.

I really enjoyed our three days in Sarlat! It was one of the places I was most excited to see, and it was the perfect mix of activities. Our group dinner here was one of my favorites-- the duck confit was delicious. We were also treated to a stunning double rainbow when we left dinner. Going deep into the Rouffignac cave was such a neat experience, though it did feel eerie at first. The weather continued to be very fickle and had thunderstorms in the forecast, but thankfully the storms stayed away and we were able to canoe. What an experience! Didn’t someone say “it was the best of times, it was the worst of times…?” (I’m only kidding, mom!). Canoeing was harder than I thought, and turns out I am not that great at steering. Oops! Good thing we had fun, laughed a lot, and marveled over the spectacular scenery. We had one rain squall along the way, but thankfully the sun came out and dried us off. After a few hours of padding, I was grateful for a cold French beer at the end. Saturday, the market day, was our free day, which was well timed. We spent a few hours wandering around the market and picked up picnic supplies for lunch and for the next day. I also picked up a few art prints.

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Sarlat continued
For the rest of our free day, I wanted to see more of the area, so I decided to rent a bike. I rented from Liberty Cycle, which is right at the trailhead of the Voie Verte (a greenway bike path) that runs from Sarlat to Cazoules. Since I wanted to cover ground more quickly, I opted for an e-bike and rode about 11.5 miles out for a total of 23 miles. I didn’t quite make it to Cazoules since I started my ride in the afternoon and wanted to ensure I had my bike returned on time. I also knew I wanted to linger more on the ride back to take pictures. I also stopped for an ice cream. Thankfully the day was relatively cool and mostly sunny, though I did ride through a few small rain showers. If you are interested in seeing more of the area, I'd highly recommend renting a bike. A conventional bike would have been fine, but I enjoyed having an e-bike. For our final dinner in Sarlat, my mom and I went to Le Bouchon, a wine bar, and had an absolutely delicious meal of charcuterie, tapas, great wine, and dessert. It was tucked away in a small alley and the food was fantastic, especially if you are looking for something a bit more casual.

Carcassonne
We left Sarlat on a very rainy morning, but after a few hours on the road, the skies cleared and we had wonderful sunny weather for the rest of the tour. At one of our stops, we stopped an had a picnic lunch, or people could opt for the food options at the autogrill. I had been to Carcassonne as a high school student, so it was nice to see the town again, though our time there was brief. I had to leave in the middle of the walking tour to attend to some matters at home (everyone was fine, but it affected my travel plans for after the tour). Since I had to work Since I didn’t finish the tour, I don’t have much of an opinion about it, but some other group members mentioned that it was not their favorite walking tour. Our group dinner at Le Patio was absolutely lovely, and I really enjoyed my cassoulet and the dessert, which was some kind of cheesecake with fruit topping. We also had an absinthe demonstration, which was entertaining. I tried the absinthe (it does not have wormwood now) and found the flavor to be interesting, if a bit strong. Finally, we topped off our time in Carcassonne with one more walk to see the city walls all illuminated, and we toasted with cups of champagne. Magical!

Arles
By this point, the weather had cleared and it was sunshine and warm temperatures for the rest of our tour. On the way to Arles, we stopped for a tour, wine tasting, and lunch at Domaine Guinand, which is an 8th generation family run winery. This was one of my favorite experiences. I enjoyed the tour and the tasting, and thought all the wine was delicious, but especially enjoyed the rose. Our lunch was lovely–great company, long tables set up under the trees, clear blue skies, great food and wine, and the sound of cicadas in the trees. I also bought a bottle of rose, which thankfully made it safely home in my (checked) bag.

After lunch, our bus ride to Arles was just long enough to make me sleepy. Our first stop was the Arles antique museum, which was interesting but I was still feeling a bit sleepy from lunch. My favorite part was seeing the amazing Roman barge that had been excavated from the Rhone river in 2011. After our time at the museum, we had our walking tour through Arles. I had been to Arles back in 1998, so it was neat to revisit some familiar sites. After our walking tour, it was nearly 5pm and very warm, so I was ready to relax a bit.

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Arles continued
Thankfully our hotel had picked up our bags from the museum, so we just had to grab them from the lobby and head to our room. We stayed at Hotel Calendal, which I thought was really lovely. Our room was bigger than some of the previous hotels, as it had a double bed as well as a twin. Our room also opened up to the back garden area, which was a really nice place to relax with a drink or an ice cream from the hotel bar. That was our next stop–rose for me, and an aperol spritz for my mom. Since we were tired, we had pizza from the hotel bar with some tour members and enjoyed a leisurely time sitting in the garden.

The breakfast at Hotel Calendal was my favorite of the trip. It had a huge selection, lots of fresh fruit, and a juice machine to make your own orange juice. Our day at Pont du Gard was one of my favorite experiences of the tour. I had been here nearly 25 years earlier, so it felt really special to be back. I enjoyed our tour, especially when we got to walk across the water channel at the very top! I didn’t even know you could do that–perks of being on a tour! (The gate to the top was otherwise locked). Our guide was great and provided a lot of insight about the history and engineering of the aqueduct. I am still amazed that it was built with no (or very little) mortar. After our tour, we took some pictures from the various viewpoints and then went down to the river. I had worn my swimsuit, so I jumped in the river and swam a little to cool off, and to enjoy the view of the aqueduct from the water. I could have easily spent a few more hours there. After getting some ice cream and walking some more, it was time to head back to the bus. Once back in Arles, we had a great lunch near the hotel, at Saveurs et Toirs. It is a small place, but we sat outside and had a great view of the area. I had the croque monsieur, which was both delicious and beautifully presented, as well as a local beer. After lunch, I picked up a few souvenirs for my family and a few friends back home. My mom went to the hotel to rest, and I went to tour the arena and walk around some more. I think this is the day I walked over 22,000 steps, and nearly 10 miles! After being in the heat, I was ready to relax so I went back to the hotel to take advantage of the small Roman style bath, with a sauna and small pool/jacuzzi (the water was cool, not hot). Later that night we had our group dinner, which somehow I cannot remember much about. I took pictures at most of our dinners, but I did not take a single one here. I do remember that we had fun, though! After dinner our guide offered an optional walk, and we walked down to the river. It was a beautiful night. On the way back to the hotel, there was a performance at the arena, so we watched some of that, then it was back to the hotel to sleep!

Les Baux/Nice
On the way to Nice, we stopped at Les Baux. Our first stop was at the Carrieres des Lumieres at Les Baux, which was incredible! It is an immersive sound and light show on the (indoor) quarry walls, and the theme was Venice, La Serenissima, plus a shorter experience about Yves Klein. It is hard to describe how wonderful it was, the imagery is spectacular and the sound really enhances the whole experience. We got there right when it opened, so it did not feel crowded at all. We also had some time to explore Les Baux. We spent time in the castle ruins, though I enjoyed wandering more than listening to the audioguide. We also had time to browse a few shops, pick up a sandwich for lunch, and have ice cream before returning to the bus to head to Nice. At our final “aire” rest stop on the way to Nice, we said our farewells to our wonderful driver Joseph and our guide presented him with a card we had all written in. Julie, our guide, and Joseph, truly made a wonderful team and made the tour run incredibly smoothly.

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Nice
Upon arrival in Nice, our drop off was quick, as we had to park a short walk from the hotel. Our room at the Mercure was small but pleasant, but the location was top notch, right near the pedestrian promenade and beach. After checking in, we had a walking tour to get oriented. Nice felt very busy after staying in smaller towns, but it was very lovely and charming. After our walking tour, we ended up back in the old town with some fellow tour members to have a cold beverage since it was very hot out. We stopped for a drink at La Favola, and decided to eat there too. I thought the pizza was great. After dinner, my mom walked around the old town, noticing that Nice reminded us both of Italy. Despite being full from dinner, I could not bypass good ice cream, so we tried Fenocchio, which was excellent. The promenade was a lively spot, with many people out walking, socializing, listening to buskers, playing volleyball on the beach, and enjoying the beautiful night.

For our last day in Nice, I went out for an early morning walk along the water. After breakfast, we had a lovely walking tour of Nice. I found the House of Reproach to be particularly fascinating, and really enjoyed learning about (and trying) socca from Chez Theresa. In the afternoon, we relaxed at the plage (beach club) that was across from the hotel. I alternated reading with swimming in the Mediterranean sea, and had one last spritz while relaxing and enjoying the beautiful setting. We also visited with some tour members that we saw at the beach and reminisced about what a great tour it was. Finally, it was time to get cleaned up, packed up, and head off to our farewell dinner. It was a fun way to wrap up a wonderful tour, especially when we shared our favorite part of the tour and celebrated our wonderful guide Julie. After one final cup of champagne and farewells on the beach, people started to drift back to the hotel, especially those with early flights.

The next morning, I was up at 4am, headed to the airport by 4:30, and had one final croissant and macchiato at Pret. By 7am, I was in the air and saying au revoir to two memorable weeks in France with my mom. With a stop in Frankfurt along the way, I was back home with my family by dinner time and it was a VERY happy reunion! Unfortunately our family travel plans for after my tour were dashed by (yup, you guessed it, that pesky virus) and they were not able to meet me in Europe. Thankfully everyone is happy and healthy now, and I’m already perusing Kayak and Google Flights to daydream about our next family adventure.

I am so grateful that I took my first tour and to share this experience with my mom. She always says I inspired them to travel to Europe, and so it was truly wonderful to go on a tour together. Overall, I was really impressed with the whole tour experience as a newcomer. I loved the mix of activities, our tour members were fun and friendly, and the food and wine were truly great. I would definitely take a tour again, though I don't know when that would be. I'd love to visit some new places on my list like Poland and Portugal. On another note, this tour was also a welcome reward for finishing this school year. Teaching has not been easy for the past few years, and this year was the most challenging yet. Taking this tour was a great way for me to recharge and to enjoy one of my passions--travel!

This recap ended up getting really long, but hopefully it was enjoyable and/or helpful to those of your who plan to take this tour. Cheers and thanks for reading!

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2732 posts

Meg, thank you for your trip report. So glad you and your mom had a great trip. I can’t wait for the rest of your report.
I’m taking the same tour mid-September.
Kathy

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3961 posts

Meg- Thank you for sharing your wonderful trip report. I really enjoyed reading it. I felt like I was with you along the way! This too was my first RS Tour (2013). One of my favorites! We are still in contact with a couple tour members.

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This may be our next tour, so thanks for taking the time to write this with all the details. We had Julie as our guide for Eastern France and loved her.

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Meg, as the mother of an adult daughter who is my favorite travel partner, I especially enjoy this trip report. This tour has been on my bucket list for a long time and your report has moved it to the top of my list for 2023. I just have to see how my September tour in England goes before I book for next year. It is really the chaos of the airports that makes me hesitant. I am not a good flyer in the best of times and the extra stress this year in airports has me worried.

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2498 posts

I enjoyed this even though I have no plans to take a tour. I started reading it because you and your mother were traveling together which I thought was so nice. I then got interested in the descriptions of the places you went!

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2352 posts

Great report! I'm looking up all the places you mentioned and everything looks so interesting.

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531 posts

Thanks Meg! I'm facing a potential layoff at work, but still going on this trip in late September. Reading your trip report brought a smile to my face and gives me more reason to look forward to it.

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Thank you Kathy (horsewoofie), Janis, Patty, Laurie Beth, BethFL, roubrat, LizLynnwood, Jill, and Luv2Travel for your kind words.

Kathy, Jill and LizLynnwood, I hope you all enjoy your tour and that you will post trip recaps. I'll be curious to know who have for guides.

Laurie Beth, I hope the England tour and navigating the flights both go smoothly. Flying through Iceland was very relaxed and Nice was an easy place to fly out of. I suppose a lot of it was just pure luck. I didn't have any issues with my flights (aside from having to book a new flight home due to changed plans) and my bag made it home fine (with the bottle of wine intact!).

Patty- the Eastern France tour looks amazing! My parents will be taking that tour next year and I wish I could go! Julie is such a wonderful guide.

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2469 posts

Meg,
A thoroughly enjoyable trip report, so very special to do this with your Mom. And you are lucky to live in Edmonds, the headquarters of RS Europe.❤️

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3227 posts

Thanks Meg for your lovely report. This tour is in my top 5, or 6. I hope Malcolm is still around giving tours by the time I take this tour.

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2712 posts

I enjoyed your report, Meg. Thanks for sharing it. It sounds like a great tour! I have been to many of the places you went, so it was fun to read your impressions.

As someone who has spent many days with my granddaughter doing online schooling (mostly first grade), I concur that you deserved a break! I salute you and your colleagues who had to endure online teaching. I can’t imagine how you got through it. So glad you had a nice trip with your mom. And bravo to your husband for covering for you while you were gone!

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531 posts

Hey Meg, is there anything that you wish you had brought on this trip or anything that you would have left behind?

47 days and counting until my trip!! 😊

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Thanks Judy B! Edmonds really is a great place to live, especially this time of year.

Thank you lisa g and diveloonie. Diveloonie- I hope you can take the tour and go on the Malcom Miller tour, as he is a wealth of knowledge to say the least.

Carroll- thank you for your kind words! That is wonderful that you were able to help your granddaughter with her online learning.

Jill- funny you should ask but I made a note on my phone of everything I packed while I was on a long layover in Frankfurt. I also wrote down what I wish I did and didn't pack. Overall I was pretty happy with my clothes, despite having a range of weather. I can post my full list if you want.

What I didn't use and would not bring again:
Hydroflask water bottle- too big for my purse and there was almost never a place to fill with ice or very cold water. I just refilled a plastic half liter bottle. If I wanted very cold water, I would buy a new one, either in a store or they were 1 Euro on the tour bus.
Laundry detergent sheets- I just used the soap at the hotels.
Two fewer tops- didn't wear them as much as my others and could have left them home.

Wish I had packed: (* means I purchased along the way)
Benadryl stick for bug bites (mosquitos got me in Arles). *I bought a remedy at a pharmacy, though it was not Benadryl.
Bug repellent wipes
*A small reusable shopping bag
*Glue stick for my travel journal
A hat
Another dress or skirt

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Meg - Thanks so much for the detailed review, especially for the "things I wish I'd packed?"
We are going on the tour next year on Sept 24. Anyone else on that tour?

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My husband and I are booked for this tour starting Sept. 10, 2023 and have really enjoyed your and others report on your experiences. Iam keeping a list of some of the restaurant etc. that have been recommended so we will have a starting place to choose when we go. So looking forward to this trip!

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Janis, sorry to hear the mosquitos got you in Arles too! I didn't think about packing bug repellent but I definitely will next time. Thanks for sharing the article about Malcolm Miller!

IrishEyes and mjbower346, I hope you both enjoy the tour as well as the planning and anticipation leading up to it!

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I enjoyed your trip reports! I’m inspired to write one for my Best of Munich, Salzburg and Vienna tour from this past July.

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531 posts

Meg, I just finished this tour and had a great time! Our tour guide, Patrick Vidal, was awesome. We also had a second tour guide for half of the tour who was shadowing him (Claire), unfortunately she had to leave early to sub for somebody who got ill on a different France tour.

Thankfully, neither I, nor nobody else on the tour got covid. A few people, incl me, had the sniffles, but nothing major. I brought several covid tests with me and tested negative the entire trip. Everybody masked on the bus, though sometimes they had to be reminded. Unfortunately, the breakfasts and dinners were still closely packed together, but we didn't seem to have any other options. I wore a mask when I wasn't eating.

I'd post a trip report here, but I have my own blog (with pics) and they frown upon including outside links here. 😊 Will DM you my link, although I'm a couple of blog posts behind right now haha.

I've never had so much bread and wine in my entire life. Will have to detox over the next couple of weeks. 😛 On the bright side, per my fitbit, I walked over 85 miles in the past 2 weeks.

Thank you for all the helpful info! This trip was worth every penny.

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6502 posts

Thanks Meg, I enjoyed reading this and appreciate the effort you put into it. Malcolm Miller seems to be immortal. We took one of his tours about 12 years ago.

This seems like a very good tour which I'm unlikely to take because I've been to all the places it goes except Arles and Nice. I wish RS had a tour specifically for the south of France -- Provence and Riviera. Road Scholar has one and I may take it one of these years.

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2352 posts

I'd post a trip report here, but I have my own blog (with pics) and they frown upon including outside links here.

Jill, I believe it's allowed as long as it's on your profile ;)

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416 posts

Meg, I really enjoyed reading your trip report! You covered several places and events that I really enjoyed in person, and also a few spots on my bucket list! I loved the Chartres en lumières…that’s great that you were able to see it twice!

Thanks for your reflections on what you wouldn’t pack next time, and what you needed…helpful, especially when trying to travel carryon only.

Laurie