My 1989 Germany, Austria, Hungary, Switzerland trip

Yes, those trips of yesteryear...nice, interesting report. Thanks. In 1989 I was over there for 4 weeks in July/Aug., saw the Wall once last time in East Berlin before it fell. What a difference then in travel styles in contrast to now! I used "Let's Go," stayed in hostels and Pensionen, only went to France and Germany , along with a day trip to East Berlin, went as far as Prenzlauer Berg district where I saw walls plastered with bullet holes, crossing not at Checkpoint Charlie but Friedrichstrasse, tons of people doing likewise. East Germans were already leaving "the workers' paradise" in droves for Hungary since the Hungarians had opened the border with Austria....heady times.

Thank you, Rob! I enjoyed reading your (1989) trip report. (And yours, too, Fred!). I look forward to your next chapter.

Love reading your report Rob and you too Fred. Waiting to read more!

You've brought back some memories for me.

I was in Germany in early October 1989. On a tour of Lubek, West Germany, we were taken to the border with East Germany. I still have the handout we were given explaining the border markings and what bad things would happen if you strayed across the line (there is even a depiction of snarling German Shepherds on the East German side of border map). The guide gave a pro forma speech about hoping that Germany would be reunited one day and I remember thinking how utterly impossible that idea was. One month later, it happened- history does indeed have its surprises. Yes, the Iron Curtain was weakening but anybody predicting the swift downfall that happened in November would have been deemed a 20th century Cassandra had they uttered those thoughts prior to the actual event.

Thanks for replies everyone. I'll do Chapter 2 in a few days. In terms of predicting what was going to happen, I was a voracious student of East European politics starting in late 1988 when I started following what the new reformist Hungarian communist government was up to. They were talking about going to a multi-party political system by then, and then, in January 1989, the Polish government agreed to have political reform talks with the then illegal Solidarity trade union. Events moved so fast that the issue of just relegalizing Solidarity wasn't even on the agenda, that was a given, it was how much overall political reform would be allowed. That June, still in the US, I followed the semi-free Polish elections in which the Communists were politically wiped out. (defeated in all seats in which they allowed opposition candidates to run). So, by that summer there were clear signs of something big about to happen, but just how it would all play out was certainly unclear, and to what extent as well.

We demand pictures!

Heady times ...in June 1989 two communist countries, these single party police states, celebrated their 40th anniversary of existence China (PRC) and East Germany. We know what solution was finally resorted to in China when the Army (PLA) was brought into politics in early June, the massacre in Beijing. Since "Gorby " had told the hard line East Germans not to expect Soviet armor to carry out the "Chinese solution" , ie a la 1956, that fortified the reformers. What I saw in East Berlin on Unter den Linden, such as their version of the "changing of the guard" (Wachablösung) in July, who would know that regime in the summer of 1989 was living on borrowed time. This was also a tourist sight ...seeing the East German soldiers do their goose-stepping routine.

I assume , rob in cal, that the Hungarians required a mandatory daily exchange of money when you got that visa, just as the East Germans did, which was $16 every day you went through the border at Friedrichstrasse, ie, you gave them 16 DM, you got back 16 East German Mark that was like Monopoly money. Like Hungarian money it was worthless outside of East Germany. I never kept a single piece, not even as a souvenir, spent it all or just gave it way. If you saw the Hungarian version of the "changing of the guard" then, you saw them do their goose-stepping routine also. I assume you used German in Budapest when you dealt with their service people or red tape. Or, was it half/half with English?

At the border check/crossing Friedrichstrasse where I saw lots of different nationalities basically doing what I was doing, all the signs/instructions were in German, nothing in any other language. East German officaldom saw you, obviously a foreigner, before even seeing your passport, addressed you in German.

Fred, there was no minimum spending requirement at all. But you couldn't take Forints out of Hungary (as if anyone would want to). I remember finding some English speaking Hungarians to talk to, and the Germans I met on two occasions were from East Germany. I didn't go to any military type events, but I remember seeing Soviet occupation troops on leave touring Budapest just like the rest of us tourists.

Chapter 2,

I arrived in Budapest on Sunday July 23. That day I went to the City Park and wandered around there, getting a tasty and gigantic fried chicken lunch for about a dollar. Right away I was enthused about the metro/bus ticket prices of 3 cents a ride (I think a ticket was 5 forints and it was 160 forints to a dollar, or more on the black market, which I didn't partake in, though there were some shady looking characters at the train station offering the black market exchange rate). That night I stayed at a room in someones house for something like 7 dollars in Buda. But over most of the next 10 days or so I spend in Budapest I stayed in Pest, in different hostels, which were usually college type dorms converted for the summer, with very cheap prices.
During my time there I did the usual tourist things, and I remember seeing Eastern Europes first Mcdonalds which had opened a few years before. It was always crowded any time of day. I actually wanted to go there once but the lines were too long. There was a rival "city burger" chain with multiple outlets, but these were never crowded.
I really enjoyed the Castle Hill complex of museums and buildings. I got a lot of the 10 cents soft ice cream there and elsewhere. The most memorable museum for me was the Communist Party history museum. First of all, it was totally empty except for me, a sign right there of the decline in vigour of the party. It had interesting (for a political history student anyway) photos, posters and memorabilia of the Party's history from the 1920's onward, but the museum section from 1956 on was shut down. This must have been due to the then ongoing debate about the true nature of 1956 anti-communist revolution, but it was pretty interesting to see the ramifications of that debate right there at the museum. I believe the displays were only in Hungarian, but I could get the general gist of things from the photos and posters.
I also enjoyed walking around Pest, the Parliament area, the Danube, the bridges etc. For food I often went to budget priced cafeteria style restaurants where you would load up the tray (I was a young guy back then with a big appetite) with bean dishes and veggie dishes and maybe a meat dish as well and end up paying a couple of dollars. I did end up eating at a few regular restaurants as well, but I really liked the low key cafeterias, with the big portions and the low prices.
One big event going on was Billy Grahams visit. When I arrived there were small posters all over announcing his big evangelism crusade rally on the next Saturday, at the Nepstadion, the Peoples Stadium. He arrived in Budapest sometime that week and had a cordial meeting with the Prime Minister. I went to the rally, which was an overflow audience, so I ended up sitting on the stadium field with a few thousand others. I believe it was one of the largest gatherings in Hungarian history. It was held in conjunction with the European Youth Baptist congress, so there were an extra amount of clean cut, well mannered young people in town that week.
At the hostels I met a few other travelers, some Americans, and some Europeans. I remember one Ukrainian student who was thrilled to talk to me. Once I met a nice East German woman who said if they or I hadn't been leaving the area (can't remember which) I could have come along with her family on their travels in Hungary.

I did a lot of wandering around Budapest and probably missed some things that a more efficient visitor would have seen, but got a feel for the city at any rate, and it struck me as half way western, and half way not, in terms of the stores, the people, the ambiance etc. One evening I spent at a sort of international youth discussion group and met a few English speaking Hungarians. Can't remember what all we talked about, but also met some dutch travelers and had dinner with them afterward (at a restaurant, not one of my cafeterias) Next chapter, 2 side trips

@ rob in cal...In 1989 the Hungarians appeared satisfied with :"goulash communism". In contrast the Czechs and the East Germans, had a min exchange amount, where upon finding out how many days your stay was, say 5 days, each of those days, the min amount was mandatory. You had to tell them in advance the length of your stay. Interesting to read about the people you met at the hostels, since it was the vacation spot for East Germany youth. Among US and west Europeans I know only three (women) who went to BP in the cold War days, language wise they had a most frustrating time with the Hungarians at train stations, hotels, etc since it was useless trying to communicate in French, English, or Spanish. They were all asked in German, that appeared to them as the only foreign language used by the Hungarians. It looks as though you didn't run into the same frustrating experience.

East Berlin was mono-lingual, ie. German, even in the area frequented by lots of tourists, the Brandenburg Gate and Unter den Linden. In 1987 I went over on a whim, by accident, solo, crossed over at Friedrichstrasse. At small restaurant / cafe on Unter den Linden sat this solo American woman, was given the small menu in German. She and I were the only foreigners/tourists. The waitress came back, the American woman started talking to her in English. Upon hearing that the waitress just abruptly walked away. Did one expect an English menu back then? Certainly not in East Berlin, let alone West Germany. The locals always knew I was a foreigner/tourist in the 1970s and '80s in Germany. At local eateries and restaurants I was never asked or offered an English menu, not the same now. The US woman was just left sitting there. No other waitress came by. After a while I told her what menu choices were available

Fred, great story about Berlin, I wonder how close our paths came to crossing in the 1980's.

Chapter 3, side trips
While in Budapest I did take two small side trips. One of them was an all day trip to Lake Balaton. I don't even remember what town I went to (the perils of 27 year old trip reports), but I do recall swimming for awhile and enjoying the ambiance as I'm a lake person. It was a small town and I had to walk a little while to reach the beach.
My other side trip was more intriguing. I had met an adventurous American who was later planning on going to Albania of all places after Hungary, who suggested we take a trip to a youth camp somewhere out in the country. I don't remember exactly where it was, maybe two hours out of Budapest by train. We got off in a village with one paved street and then dirt roads off of that, and for some reason looked for a place to stay there rather than at the actual camp. We didn't like the price or something, so ended up staying at the camp. It had a swimming pool, and bungalows to sleep in. When we got there lunch or dinner had already been served, but IIRC they fixed something up for us. I don't remember the overall cost of staying there, but it wasn't much.

After eating I went swimming at the pool and met some nice German girls. I realized that they weren't from West Germany when they started complaining about how expensive things were in Hungary. Hungary was as close as you could get to budget travelers paradise, so I realized then they were from East Germany, which came out soon after anyway as we started to talk about our lives.IIRC they had just started working at a factory and were on a summer vacation to Hungary.
I think my travel buddy and I went back to Budapest the next day, as the camp wasn't that exciting, but I wouldn't be surprised if we were the only Americans who visited that summer.
I have to confess I failed as a traveler in some respects, not taking the Danube cruises, or seeing any of the Danube bend, not going to places like Godollo or Vezsprem to see historic places. I really should have gone to Godollo the day I got to Hungary as that Sunday a special election for a seat in the Hungarian parliament for the Godollo district was being held. What made it special was that due to the new laws already being put in place, anti-communists, not just non-party independent candidates could now run for parliament seats. Four seats had come open that summer, and one was in Godollo. I believe a candidate from the Hungarian Democratic Forum won the seat. The party would go on to form the next government in Hungary in 1990 after general elections were held in the spring of 1990. I really should have gone there that day just to observe a random precinct or two, and visit the royal palace afterward. Ah, the regrets of youth.
After I believe 10 total days in Hungary, it was back to my German speaking safety zone. Vienna (again) and the Swiss Alps were calling.

Chapter 4

I left Budapest to head back toward the Alps, but stayed in Vienna again. Can't remember why, I think I just liked the atmosphere and so spent a few more days there. Then it was off to Innsbruck, Lucerne and Interlaken. In Lucerne I stayed in the hostel type room in a regular hotel, for a much cheaper rate. Some of the other people there (other North Americans and Europeans) asked me about the shopping bag that was my overnight bag. I explained that I would leave my heavy duffel bag at the train station lockers on overnight stays. I don't remember too much of Lucerne. Didn't see the Swiss transportation museum, which I would now see for sure, and don't remember if I saw the fallen Lion monument to the Swiss guards killed in the French Revolution. In retrospect that's a fascinating historical monument that I would really have liked to see.
I do remember the covered bridge, and also how neat, tidy and elegant Lucerne is, almost central casting for "hey lets make a perfect Swiss small size city".
At Interlaken I met another young American, another Rob, no less, from Long Island. We were both headed to Balmers, a famous Interlaken youth hostel, staffed by North Americans ( Canadians, and US I think). One day we went up one of the mountains, not sure which actually, and walked down, having taken the lift or rail to get up there. I think on either the second, probably the third night at Balmers one of the staff members asked me what I was doing still there, as this was of course unusual for young American visitors, to actually stay for awhile, beautiful area or not, after all your typical young American at the time had their obligatory Eurailpass, and the usual bucket list of things to see.
My new travel companion and I headed off to Munich as I had to be in Frankfurt for my flight home fairly soon. I remember changing trains in Bern and thinking that it looked like a really nice looking city, with people swimming in the Aare river. I remember thinking there are so many great places to see in Europe, its a shame I have to be getting back to the States.
In Munich I had another of those moments when I was wandering around, maybe after lunch, not sure, but anyway found myself in this really nice, elegant neighborhood, and again remember thinking, wow I really need to spend more time in nice places like this that are enjoyable just to soak in the atmosphere.
My last night in Europe I spent in Frankfurt before my flight, and at the hostel I stayed at watched the German news and there was really thorough coverage of the ongoing (this is mid-August by now) Polish parliamentary discussions which led to the appointment of Tadeusz Mazowiecki as Polands first non-communist prime minister. He took office a week after I was back in the US, and that was a fitting post script to my somewhat politically inspired trip to Europe.
Of the six trips I took to Europe between 1979 and 1992, all of the others were more structured, once with my family, twice to stay with a German family, twice to go school, and the last one to take a painting to be authenticated in Bologna in 1992. This trip was the closest to a typical American summer abroad in Europe, and I'm glad I took it. I missed seeing a lot of the sights as I wasn't the most organized, but had memorable experiences anyway, and good times meeting people as well.

@ rob in cal...I'm curious in light of language instruction in those days of yesteryear in Central Europe those East German girls you met , did you talk to them in English or German, or half half, since the lingua franca of Central Europe prior to the end of commie days outside of the local language was German. Fantastic that you made it over for six trips from 1979 to 1992. In roughly the same span I was there in 1977, 1984, 1987, 1989, and 1992, all with visits to Berlin, except in 1977, which I bailed out from that visit the last minute. I stayed at a cheapie Pension on Kurfürstendamm, charged 35 DM for a single with the WC/shower down the hall, plus a traditional deutsches Frühstück. No buffet in those days.

Fred, I talked to the East Germans in German, and I don't remember anything peculiar about there accents or anything. I too was in Berlin in 1987, in October that year staying with a distant relative. Wonder how close we came to crossing paths back in the 1980's.

@ rob,

Being in Berlin in 1987 was special since it was the city's 750th anniversary...great. I flew back there twice from Hannover-Langenhagen. Our paths did not cross in 1987 in Berlin since I was there end of July7August. The first time I met East Germans youth was in 1973 in Prague, spoke only German to them, same as to the Czechs since that was the lingua franca.