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Munich: It Was the Best of Times, It Was the Wurst of Times

Continued from my Budapest report--I got on the plane to Munich last Monday with a severely put-out lower back. Armed with only motrin (thinking longingly of the pain patches, muscle relaxers and vicodin at home) I somehow endured the 1 hour flight, collected my suitcase and got on the Lufthansa Express bus--this worked well as the driver put my bag in the hold for me. I think the S bahn would have been too much in this condition. I paid the 18 euro to include a return, thinking if I had to take a taxi back, so be it. I'd studied my map and knew my hotel was on Mittererstrasse just off Bayerstrasse, and managed the 3 blocks. It was noon so couldn't get into my room, so I got a transit pass & headed out on tram 17 to Nymphenburg. I sat for a while and watched the swans, ducks and geese before getting a combination ticket & touring the palace, then out into the gardens to see the smaller residences--like Versailles, I much more enjoyed the small ones, they seem more personal. Late lunch in The Palmenhaus, nice beer garden and indoor seating, time to start having all the sausages and beer. By 5 I was done and needed to get off my feet so got into my room--Hotel Metropol was one of the nicest hotel experiences, very helpful front desk staff (directed me to an apotheke nearby), beautifully decorated common areas and the room was just lovely--queen bed, sitting area, quiet--and a fabulous breakfast to boot. Great to be so close to the Hbf as I used it every day for trains, trams, buses, U and S bahns, plus plenty of places for snacks. I reached out to the forum here and several people immediately offered ideas for my pain crisis--very grateful for that!

Tuesday I got more ibuprofen, pain cream and a sort of waist belt heating pad that really helped--also made me even more hot than I already was. I was determined to keep going and just endure the pain as it's something I get occasionally. I move at such a fast pace that really all this did was slow me down to a normal pace for most people. I got my ticket for the S and headed out to Dachau--all together spent about 4 hours. Like Auschwitz it has that odd, unsettling sense of serenity about it. Unlike Auschwitz the krematoria and buildings where people were gassed are intact and it was very disturbing to go into the chambers, had to take time to collect myself before moving on. I am very interested in WWII in particular and seek out these places when traveling but I think 2 concentration camps is enough for me. Back to Munich proper and I explored the Marienplatz area--very busy, loaded with tourists. I had the first of 3 meals at the Hofbrauhaus--loved it there! From the second floor there is an outdoor terrace that I felt comfortable dining alone in. More sausages and beer, though other meals I had sauerbraten and crispy pork roast.

Wednesday I headed off to the little town of Giengen an der Brenz, about 2 hours to the west. It is famous as the birthplace of Margarete Steiff and her brother who made the first teddy bear--there is a museum and you can see the original 1903 glass-walled factory. My family and I have been collectors since the late 1960s and for many years I wanted to visit, very glad I made the effort. There's a trail of bear paw prints leading from the train station to the museum, and while it's geared towards kids I was thrilled to see some of the really old items on display. At a nearby shop I was recommended the Hotel Lamm for Swabian food for lunch--excellent maultaschen (kind of like ravioli) and beer sitting outside and watching life in this small but charming town. This train trip was a first in that I had to make a connection--11 minutes in Ulm. Going there it was perfectly do-able, but coming back the train was 5 minutes late. Uh oh, 5-6 minutes was going to be difficult in my condition but I was determined and made it to the other track with 1 minute to spare.

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Thursday I made the 1 hour trip to Nuremberg--arrived to rain but was prepared and got a pass and off I went to the Dokumentationzentrum via tram. Rick's guide says #9 but #8 also went there. About 3/4 through the tour of this fascinating museum--audio guide a must as no English explanations--alarms started going off and dire announcements in German (everything sounds dire in German!) told us to evacuate the building. Somewhat scary as about 20 polizei arrived and then the fire engines. I decided to walk the lake and see what else I could find of the Reichs buildings before going back to the old town. What a beautiful town it is! I had lunch at The Literaturhaus then set off exploring in the rain, interesting little shops and so many things to photograph. Toured the Durer house and also a wonderful and quite big Spielzeug (toy) museum--just full of incredible old toys, loved it. Back to Munich by 5 and utterly exhausted.

Friday was museum day--got my combi ticket and toured the Alte, Neue and Moderne Pinakotheks--the Neue was the most enjoyable, my favorite eras and artists. I stopped for a snack in the Alte at the café called Klenze and they had the most intriguing array of cakes and tarts to choose from--I tried an apple olive cake with a sort of cream cheese frosting that was deliciously different. Wandered the Marienplatz later and dinner at the Hofbrauhaus. Other places looked good but I wasn't feeling up to my usual explorations this time and stuck to what I knew was good at a place I felt comfy in.

Saturday--final day, at last! I had mapped out 4 flea markets and started with an easy one at Munchen-Reim, unfortunately filled with junky garage sale type stuff and mostly walking over rocks that were big enough to throw my back, so I next tried to find Kavalieremarkt but it seems to no longer be at Schwere-Reiter, and by then I was hot, cranky and really just DONE. Early dinner at Hofbrauhaus, one final wander and then time to pack. I always thought I would buy a cuckoo clock in Germany but the urge passed me by, same with the steins, so I compromised by getting refrigerator magnets of each instead.

Never have I been so glad to go home--it made me sad to realize that due to the back pain I was only enduring Munich and not enjoying it fully, but it is an interesting place and overall I liked what I saw of Germany. The people were always kind and helpful, moderate amounts of English spoken, surprisingly--I expected a bit more, but had no trouble getting help if I needed it. The food was every bit as incredible as expected--it's always been a favorite of mine. I trundled my bags back to the Airport Bus and arrived at the airport at 9 am, had checked my bag and been through security by 9:25--it was a Sunday morning, but overall I felt this was a very efficient airport. I feel I saw all my must-sees and while I didn't do a couple of things like the Residenz or explore a bit more--the happy wandering part that makes my trips complete--I am satisfied.

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276 posts

Sorry about your back but you did quite a bit despite your pain. Hope your flight home wasn't too painful.

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2688 posts

Flight home was 11 1/2 hours direct, thank goodness I had an aisle seat! I am an extremely determined person and this affliction is one I am familiar with--maybe if it had been something else that was new I'd have been stopped in my tracks. I do know I'd like to see more of Germany so overall I came away with a positive feeling.

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christa, I am in awe of your determination and ...well, spunk! Well written trip report and certainly I will be saving it for future reference. You visited some places and made recommendations that have really piqued my interest and I thank you for posting. I hope you're feeling much, much better! Oh, and very, very clever title :)

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Thanks, Andi! Tried to interject a bit of humor amongst my whining. I'm also sorry I didn't get to visit the English Garden, it would have probably been more fun than trying to find the flea markets my last day.

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681 posts

Loved your report. I am glad you are back and hopefully pain free.

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2688 posts

Nancy--Alas, my souvenir back pain from Munich is still plaguing me, nearly 3 weeks now. Lesson learned--I will always bring meds and pain patches when traveling since this is a chronic, though infrequent, issue. I'm just glad I still got to see so much in Munich!