Continued from my Budapest report--I got on the plane to Munich last Monday with a severely put-out lower back. Armed with only motrin (thinking longingly of the pain patches, muscle relaxers and vicodin at home) I somehow endured the 1 hour flight, collected my suitcase and got on the Lufthansa Express bus--this worked well as the driver put my bag in the hold for me. I think the S bahn would have been too much in this condition. I paid the 18 euro to include a return, thinking if I had to take a taxi back, so be it. I'd studied my map and knew my hotel was on Mittererstrasse just off Bayerstrasse, and managed the 3 blocks. It was noon so couldn't get into my room, so I got a transit pass & headed out on tram 17 to Nymphenburg. I sat for a while and watched the swans, ducks and geese before getting a combination ticket & touring the palace, then out into the gardens to see the smaller residences--like Versailles, I much more enjoyed the small ones, they seem more personal. Late lunch in The Palmenhaus, nice beer garden and indoor seating, time to start having all the sausages and beer. By 5 I was done and needed to get off my feet so got into my room--Hotel Metropol was one of the nicest hotel experiences, very helpful front desk staff (directed me to an apotheke nearby), beautifully decorated common areas and the room was just lovely--queen bed, sitting area, quiet--and a fabulous breakfast to boot. Great to be so close to the Hbf as I used it every day for trains, trams, buses, U and S bahns, plus plenty of places for snacks. I reached out to the forum here and several people immediately offered ideas for my pain crisis--very grateful for that!
Tuesday I got more ibuprofen, pain cream and a sort of waist belt heating pad that really helped--also made me even more hot than I already was. I was determined to keep going and just endure the pain as it's something I get occasionally. I move at such a fast pace that really all this did was slow me down to a normal pace for most people. I got my ticket for the S and headed out to Dachau--all together spent about 4 hours. Like Auschwitz it has that odd, unsettling sense of serenity about it. Unlike Auschwitz the krematoria and buildings where people were gassed are intact and it was very disturbing to go into the chambers, had to take time to collect myself before moving on. I am very interested in WWII in particular and seek out these places when traveling but I think 2 concentration camps is enough for me. Back to Munich proper and I explored the Marienplatz area--very busy, loaded with tourists. I had the first of 3 meals at the Hofbrauhaus--loved it there! From the second floor there is an outdoor terrace that I felt comfortable dining alone in. More sausages and beer, though other meals I had sauerbraten and crispy pork roast.
Wednesday I headed off to the little town of Giengen an der Brenz, about 2 hours to the west. It is famous as the birthplace of Margarete Steiff and her brother who made the first teddy bear--there is a museum and you can see the original 1903 glass-walled factory. My family and I have been collectors since the late 1960s and for many years I wanted to visit, very glad I made the effort. There's a trail of bear paw prints leading from the train station to the museum, and while it's geared towards kids I was thrilled to see some of the really old items on display. At a nearby shop I was recommended the Hotel Lamm for Swabian food for lunch--excellent maultaschen (kind of like ravioli) and beer sitting outside and watching life in this small but charming town. This train trip was a first in that I had to make a connection--11 minutes in Ulm. Going there it was perfectly do-able, but coming back the train was 5 minutes late. Uh oh, 5-6 minutes was going to be difficult in my condition but I was determined and made it to the other track with 1 minute to spare.