This is going to be much less detailed than my usual trip reports, but we had such a good time in Venice and Rome between our recent RSE tours that I wanted to share some highlights.
VENICE
We flew into Venice from Nice after the Loire to the South of France tour. We took the airport bus to Piazzale Roma, where we bought a 7 day vaporetto pass. Then we hopped a #1 vaporetto, three stops to San Stae. From there it was a short walk, maybe half a block or less, to our hotel, Al Ponte Mocinego, Santa Croce 1985.
I'll cut any suspense: we loved this hotel. We loved the room, the neighborhood, the staff, the convenience... I can't remember any problems or complaints, but if I think of any as I write this (always a possibility,) I'll let you know.
Our room was on the first floor up, and I don't think there was an elevator. Our host beamed when he showed us the room, especially when he threw open a door to show us our private balcony, overlooking a small garden. We were there for five nights, and I never saw anyone in the garden. The room was big, nicely furnished, with a mini-fridge and a special air purifier “capable of eliminating 99.9% of viruses and bacteria from the air and surfaces...”
I will say we sprang for the “superior” room, €185 instead of €160 for the “classic” room, at the recommendation of someone on this Forum.
The included breakfast was served in a small courtyard as well as in an interior breakfast room. The offerings were typical: yogurt, cheese, salami, fruit, rolls or bread, cereals, and juice. There seemed to be hot food available as well, including sausages, eggs, and bacon, but you had to ask for them. Coffee, tea, and water were also available.
There was a buffet, but it was not self-service. A charming, friendly, and hard-working staff plated everything for you. Some people went back for seconds; we routinely had more coffee or started with more. We found the caffee latte and cappuccino rather too milky for our taste, and began ordering espresso on the side. After two mornings of this, the staff would ask us “Extra espresso?”
We arrived on a Friday evening, and I had asked our hoteliers if they recommended we make a reservation for dinner. They assured us there were a number of good restaurants in the neighborhood, and we'd be fine.
And so we were. We walked about ½ a block, crossed a small bridge, and found Mura San Stae. There are a couple of Mura restaurants in Venice recommended on the Forum. Since we didn't have a reservation, we were not able to sit outside, but we didn't have to wait for a table inside. The food was very good. Stan had gnocchi with tiny little octopuses, and I had a good risotto with asparagus and shrimp. We had the house soave, and coffee afterward. Stan had a good tiramisu, as well. We liked this place so much we returned two more times. We recommend the risotto “del giorno:” it was asparagus and shrimp the first time, and scallops and artichokes the second. I had the house specialty, “spaghettone del nonno” once, and it was wonderful. Perfect pasta with a very tasty light sauce with veal cheeks.
Our favorite restaurant was also in our hotel's neighborhood; in fact, it's just a few meters down the street: Osteria Mocenigo. We dropped in Saturday afternoon; the host asked “Do you have a reservation?” “No,” we said, figuring we'd have to leave. “Sit down!” he roared, and we had one of the best meals we had the whole time we were in Italy. Stan had good veal, and I had grilled cuttlefish with polenta, which was exceptionally good. We immediately made reservations for the next evening. Stan had seared tuna with vegetables on our second visit, while I had fried calamari, also with vegetables. Both dishes were perfectly prepared.