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Mini Trip Report - Chamonix and Annecy Sept. 2022

I was rereading a thread about France and realized that I could share this info in the Trip Reports section, hoping to help others! :-) Better late than never... my first post to Trip Reports!

Reporting back after our wonderful month in France! Chamonix and Annecy were some of our favorite places on our tour around France! Here are some observations to share:

We traveled from Sète to Annecy on Sunday, Sept. 18, planning to then take the Blablabus to Chamonix. Unfortunately, our train had unexpected delays on the tracks, and we arrived too late to catch the bus. Not willing to pay 300 Euros for a taxi to Chamonix, we ended up with an Annecy preview that night. We'd planned to stay in Annecy after Chamonix, then take the TGV to Paris.

Two takeaways: Walk to a nearby hotel when you arrive late and need a last minute reservation, rather than using Booking.com. We were worried we wouldn't have a room, and it was 7 pm on a Sunday - and it was fine. But if we had booked directly, in person, we would have saved 20 Euro. The hotelier couldn't refund that for us bc we'd used Booking. Oh well.

Also, traveling by train on Sundays in France can be tricky. We had trains cancelled at the last minute several times during our stay, on week days as well. But when we went to book the TGV from Annecy to Paris, the prices were very high, and availability was slim...so we moved our date to Monday and paid much less for the tickets. Glad we were flexible!

Chamonix highlights - we LOVED this city, and hope to return some day. Check the dates for the lifts as you plan for spring or fall...we arrived the day after most of the lifts were closed for the summer season. This meant we couldn't do some of the Balcon hikes we were anticipating- hoping to ride up, hike across with great views, and ride back down again.
*Borrowed hiking poles from our hotel - greatly appreciated!
*Cascade du Dard hike to a waterfall was pretty and rated easy - but be careful where you enter. One entrance is a 50 minute hike. The one we took made our hike 4+ hours, and much more moderate than easy, as advertised.
*Chalet la Floria was rated an easy hike, but more like moderately challenging for me with the altitude changes and equivalence of 57+ flights of stairs climbed! So worth it, though, as there was a beautiful refuge there with a delicious menu and spectacular views. We lingered there for a few hours, and highly recommend it.
*Montenvers train to see the Mer de Glace is really worth the ride. Here we were able to have a lovely pause at the restaurant there, with drinks and ice cream, taking in the views. This was the only panoramic restaurant we could access with so many lifts closed. (We chose not to go to the Aiguille de Midi peak.) There's a Glaciorium small museum, and you can hike to trails from there. Friends did descend to the Glacier cave, and it was a grueling 500+ steps back up to the platform! The trains run frequently, and you want to sit on the left side ascending, and the right side descending for best photo ops. They're building a huge expansion and upgrade to be finished in a year or two. We want to go back!
*[1]: http://chamonix.net is an excellent resource for trip planning. We listened to the Montenvers audio guide while sitting in the sun, gazing at the mountains and waterfalls at the restaurant. It was great!
*The Blablabus was not only the cheapest way to get from Annecy to Chamonix, it was also faster than the train would have been. Good experience.
*We bought a hiking trails map from the TI for about 5 Euros, and that was interesting, along with the free brochures they have there.
*There's a free electric bus that circles the town with many stops, and your hotel will also give you a free pass for the city buses that go between the neighboring towns.
*Enjoyed tartiflette at Josephine, and fondue and Cafe Gourmands at Au fer du Cheval
*Beauty everywhere - from abundant flower baskets to cool murals

Annecy next...

Laurie

Posted by
481 posts

Annecy was beautiful, too, but rainy for most of our stay. If we get to return there, I hope we will be able to see the city with sun shining throughout! Annecy is lovely, historic, charming, and very walkable. We originally had a reservation right on the canal at the Hotel de Palais de L'Isle, but then found an apartment that was less expensive by the train station, about a 15 minute walk. Next time, we would choose a place closer to the old town area for more ambiance.

*Sapaudia was a delicious, Italian style pizza restaurant - we ate there the first night on the rec of our hotelier. We were tired and frustrated about our missed bus, and it was already dark, so we couldn't even see the lake...but we ate here, and had a really good and satisfying meal of pizza and salad and desserts. Things were looking up after that meal! :-) We ate there again after Chamonix, when we were back for our planned Annecy stay several days later.

*Art installations were in the Jardins de L'Europe and along the shore of the lake. They were interesting to see.

*The water in the lake is really clear and inviting, and even in the chilly drizzle I took off my shoes and waded out into the lake for a few minutes. Beautiful views with clouds settling above the lake, hiding some of the peaks. We could only imagine how lively and busy the beaches would be in the warmer summer months.

*We took a 1.5 hour lake cruise, which was in the brief part of the day that the rain stopped for us! All in French, but the views were lovely, and we were happy to be out on the water.

*There were excellent markets on Saturday and Sunday. Since we were staying in an apartment, I was finally able to buy a rotisserie chicken, veggies, and potatoes for us to enjoy, instead of just wishing we could in other trips with hotel stays. I chose fresh figs and strawberries, too. So, so good!!

*We were glad it wasn't peak tourist season when we were there - it was easy to stroll around, popping into shops, or enjoying treats in cafes whenever we wanted.

  • Next time, we would like to have a car and drive around the lake to visit other towns in the area, and take some hikes. This time, we were able to walk around and explore at our leisure, and that was nice.

One more thought...we traveled by trains and used carry-on only on this, our longest trip yet. One of our train trips we chose the top level of the train, thinking we'd have better views. We didn't think about carrying our bags upstairs! So, our subsequent trips, we chose the lower levels, and that was just fine!

Laurie

Posted by
6525 posts

Thanks, Laurie! Annecy is a place we'd love to visit. We were there on the RSE Eastern France tour, but only long enough for the lake cruise and a quick lunch.

Posted by
972 posts

Thanks Laurie! Did you stay in each town for two weeks? We thought about doing this exact trip — spend a month between the two!

Posted by
481 posts

Thanks, Calimom! I wish we could have spent a month there! Overall, we had one preview night in Annecy when our town was late, then four nights in Chamonix, then three more nights in Annecy.

We hope we can return to this area and stay longer next time. We’d time our Chamonix visit to when all the lifts were open…and hope for better weather in Annecy to do more outside exploring!