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Louisiana Bon Temps

I’ve always preferred to think of America as a stew pot rather than as a melting pot. Vive la difference. In Louisiana, that stew is a gumbo. A little different, a bit muddy, and better with some hot sauce.

Our visit here was part independent travel, part RS tour. No, not Rick Steves — Road Scholar. We’ve now done exactly one of each.

Our first stop down Highway 61 from Mississippi was St. Francisville. Treasured old houses, a nod to its 19th C. Jewish community and a local history museum that introduced Louisiana, its native communities, the struggle among the intruding Spanish, French, British and Americans for control of West Florida and Louisiana, and the struggle of formerly enslaved people 100 and 200 years later for their rights.

Onward to the Louisiana Arboretum in the central part of the state with its bayou, birdlife, pines, cypress, oaks, mulberry bushes and more. Then, Lafayette for 3 nights. The Boudin Festival in the neighboring town of Scott was so-so. Music was more rock & country than Cajun and boudin is apparently an acquired taste. But some folks suggested the Artwalk that evening in Lafayette. Not all that much art, but the teens and twenty-somethings on the street were artworks themselves - well-tattooed and pierced. BeauSoleil bookstore was special. We spoke with staff there about their commitment to make a range of books and ideas available - and how the Seattle Public Library makes material available on-line to young readers anywhere in the country. We also found a nice tapas place - Pamplona - for dinner as an alternative to the étouffée, red fish, crab cakes and gumbo that we had our other two nights in Lafayette. The next day we enjoyed a Cajun/Creole re-creation village, Vermilionville, with some Cajun music and dancing that was being broadcast live on the local public radio station.

Laissez Les bon temps rouler

Off to NO via the southern route - US 90 with some detours. First was Rip’s Rookery (as in Rip van Winkle, so named because a 19th Century actor who played that part built a home here) was fantastic with its Roseate Spoonbills and egrets and other birds. From there we went to Avery Island with beautiful and very natural seeming ponds and gardens and its own egret rookery. We skipped the Tabasco factory and tour.

Next stop, a po’ boy in Houma. Very friendly folks there and a couple of locals who shared their histories a bit. One was a 63 yo African American woman who has lived in Houma all her life, though she was in the military and stationed out west (California). She’s very involved with her church; she was at this lunch spot to pick up burgers for a bunch of folks back at the church. The other person we spoke with was a white lawyer who lived about 400 yards from our lunch spot. He also grew up in Houma - and went to law school at LSU. His practice is probate and small business. Many folks around here have a 6th grade education, he observed. Loves his practice and helping people. He gave us strong warnings about crime in NO and roundly critiqued its current mayor. Of course, the shrimp po’ boy had wonderfully fresh shrimp and the sweet potato waffle fries were oh-so-light.

On to N’Orleans

MusicFoodMuralsResilienceCelebrationRespectReligionSinHistoryRiverfrontFloodingDiversityElegantCasual

… and damn near zero graffiti.

On our own - and with a friend who moved here just three years ago - we got around a bit. Lots has been rebuilt in the 20 years since Katrina. There are beautiful parks. Murals astride the flood walls along the Mississippi and in the neighborhoods with little to no graffiti. My sister tells me the same was true about the lack of graffiti in NO when she lived here decades ago. It has to do with respect.

(Will wrap this TR up in the first reply, below. But meanwhile thanks to ekscrunchy, salbeachbum, kenko, acher, TC and others who helped me with trip planning in recent months.)

Posted by
824 posts

We had great dinners at Atchafalaya and Le Petite Grocery. Loved the zoo, the Insectarium and the St. Charles Steetcar ride through the Garden District. Saw new housing - public low income (?), though it looks pretty nice. Research tells me there is less public housing now than before Katrina. Our friend loves living here and considers himself a true New Orleanian now. (We’re not sure all would agree.)

French Quarter Fest / Road Scholar “Tour”

5 nights in one hotel a “tour?” Yes with the many group activities and meals, even though the draw and focus was time on our own to take in the Fest.

Multiple lectures by musicians who were also professors - in some cases with music by quartets they led. Dr. Doreen Ketchens and Doreen’s New Orleans Jazz were outstanding she told and they showed how early jazz is rooted in spirituals. And my could she blow that clarinet! For four mornings, we were treated to lectures and performances about NO jazz, its history and roots, as well as Cajun music and the multitude of genres we’d hear at the fest. We’d hear of the pain and loss and poverty and hope and joy and religion, history, cultures and hurricanes that give birth to the spirit and vitality of New Orleans. The second line, names from Buddy Bolden, Jelly Roll Morton, King Oliver, Louis Armstrong, Mahalia Jackson and others from elsewhere, like Duke Ellington.

At the festival itself, highlights included hearing Doreen’s New Orleans Jazz on the street while they were busking for ‘buckets of money,’ hearing the John Mahoney Little Band (including Road Scholar lecturer Dr. Ed Wise on the Bass), and just taking in 3-1/2 days of traditional jazz, boogie woogie, R&B, funk, pop, rap and hip hop, as well as music that defied classification. And my, how so many New Orleanians and festival regulars dressed! In colours to beat the band! A great time was had by all.

We really enjoyed the group on this tour and we’ve made friends who we will get to know better in the future.

We also had some more great dinners on our own at Cochon and at Peche. Peche was pretty phenomenal - one our two best on this trip. The other was earlier, up in Memphis at Flight. Atchafalaya in New Orleans deserves a very honorable mention, as well.

Hiway 61 Upriver

If you missed it earlier, let me shamelessly encourage you to look at the first part of this TR from Memphis through Mississippi …

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/memphis-and-mississippi-s-hiway-61

Posted by
65 posts

Louisiana is indeed a gumbo, especially the French influence. Part came directly from France, part indirectly via Canada. These were the French Acadians who came from Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. Their French regional origins and dialect were different from the Québecois. Acadian in French is Acadien, from which the name Cajun is a derivative.

Then there were two groups of Africans. Some were slaves but others not, as there was a small but substantial community of never-enslaved Africans as well. Unlike the slaves and ex-slaves, they were literate/educated, Catholic and largely the two groups did not engage with one another socially. They spoke French whereas the former slaves spoke Creole, a dialect comprised of French, Spanish and African influences, and largely unintelligible to French-speakers. Musically they created their own genre which combines French with blues influences, called Zydeco (a Creole pronunciation of les haricots, the French word for green beans).

Posted by
18088 posts

Great report, Fred!!! I'm so happy that you got to hear Dr. Ketchens! We ran into her busking in the Quarter on our last NOLA trip 3 years ago and couldn't believe our luck (had seen her on CBS Sunday Morning). That woman is the BOMB. Please, please share more of your favorites from the festival, Frenchmen St or elsewhere?

(I have "Hey Pocky Way" stuck in my head and can NOT get it out.)