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London with T(w)eens

Just got back from 8 days in London with my husband and our kids, 15 and 12. I really appreciated all the helpful advice while I was planning and wanted to share our experience in case it’s of help to anyone. Some of our itinerary as far as what we did, what days, and what things were paired with others were very intentional with our kids in mind. Tried to always have a more “kid oriented” activity paired with something a bit more “adult”.
We arrived pretty early to Heathrow (a little after 7am) and had quite a bit of time to kill before we could get in to our accommodation. We chose to take the Heathrow Express as my kids were free and because we had the Friends and Family Railcard, my husband and I got reduced fares. It was actually the cheapest option and worked great for us. We stayed near Victoria, so we left our bags at the left luggage facility near Platform 8 (it was pretty pricey, but worth the convenience) and ventured out a bit. We hopped one tube stop over to Earl’s Court because my whole family are Dr. Who fans and there’s a Police Box/Tardis outside the Earl’s Court exit. Only a quick photo op but fun all the same. Back to Victoria, We wandered down to Buckingham Palace to kill more time and then collected our bags as we were able to leave our bags at our rental flat and pick up keys for a check in time a couple hours later (once the cleaners were gone). We rented a flat through a company that Rick recommends in his London book: visitapartmentslondon.co.uk and it was great! With moody teens and multiple days, I wanted us to be able to each have some space at the end of the day and not just all be stuck in one hotel room. It was such a good choice. This company lets you specify if you are looking for budget, moderate, or luxury properties. Our flat was quite comparable to a Premier Inn or similar place. We saved money because we got groceries for breakfasts every morning and I cooked about 4 or 5 dinners. We had a property about half way between Victoria and Pimlico. It was quiet, lovely, and exactly what we wanted to give everyone a little space. Mary and Simon from the company were great to work with, responded immediately to inquiries, and everything was as expected. I would highly recommend this company.

Because we got in so early and got ZERO sleep on the flight over, we napped for two hours in the afternoon and then got back out into the fresh air. We got groceries, had dinner and then ventured out on Rick’s “Westminster Walk” audio tour.

Day 2: We had prebooked tickets to Shakespeare’s Globe Theater. I would highly recommend one of the tours. You learn so much! We tried an underwhelming Pizza Express for lunch near the theater and then made our way over to St. Paul’s Cathedral. We also had a timed entry ticket. It wasn’t too busy and my kids enjoyed (and huffed and puffed” hiking the 500+ stairs all the way to the top. The views were great. We grabbed a quick snack in the crypt cafe and then headed over to Madame Tussaud’s Wax Museum. Yes, a total tourist trap, but I remember going when I was 13 and thinking it was the coolest thing ever. My kids really enjoyed it. It would not be on my list without kids, but with kids, it’s worth it. One note, there is an optional, HORRIBLE 4D Marvel movie at the end. Not only is the movie horrible and too loud, but the 4D effects like shaking, bumping seats, air blown on you, mist sprayed on you is just plain annoying. One of my kiddos has a lot of sensory sensitivities and Mme. Tussauds did a TERRIBLE job of warning you what this experience was going to be like. They said “you might feel a little bump on your chair”. It was so much more and my poor kiddo was just a basket case after it was over. So, if you’ve got a neurodivergent kiddo or are neurodivergent yourself, do not do this part of the Tussaud’s!

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Day 3: We ventured to Watford Junction from Easton and spent the day at the Warner Bros. Studio Making of Harry Potter. If you’re a Potter fan, this is a must. It was huge and is a Harry Potter fan’s dream. All four of us love the books and this was delightful. We got in to the studio about 10:30 (due to some train cancellations) and we got a 3:15 train back to Euston. We had a lovely pub dinner at St. George’s Tavern (recommended in Rick’s book for eating near Victoria) and then saw “Phantom of the Opera”. It was an excellent production!

Day 4: Today was a special day trip to the SE coast to the seaside town of Bexhill on Sea. I have dear, almost 40-year friends, who live there and we went for a lovely visit.

Day 5: We ventured to the Tower of London in the morning. Because we were planning on seeing the Tower of London and Hampton Court Palace, I purchased a one-year membership to the Royal Palaces. The membership gets you into something like 6 palaces. For two adults and two children, it was cheaper by 80 GBP to buy the yearly membership than it would have been to buy four tickets to the Tower and four to Hampton Court. We arrived for our 10am entry about 9:40 and the queue was PLENTY long, but we got in no problem and once in, it seemed quiet. We too Rick’s advice and went past all the people and straight into the Crown Jewels. There was no line outside at all and although there were plenty of people already in there, it was manageable. We then got into a group for the next Beefeater tour. It was very entertaining (my kids were itching to actually get into the buildings so they got a little bored). Our group (being July) was HUGE and it was hard to hear our guide sometimes even though he was practically screaming. We had lunch at the Armouries Cafe which was very good and then toured the rest of the Tower. By the time we stopped for lunch the line for the Crown Jewels was enormous. Definitely go first! After the Tower, we went to the National Portrait Gallery to see a special exhibit that was open on the six wives of Henry VIII. My youngest and I are Tudor fans, so this was a highlight for us (and watching all the drunk football fans as England was playing the Euro final that night!!). After dinner at the flat, two stayed back at the flat and my eldest and I went on a Jack the Ripper walking tour through a company called Rebel Tours (rebeltours.co.uk) I chose this tour based on a recommendation from Jess of the YouTube page “Love and London”. It’s a women owned company and their tour focuses on the lives of the women; who they were, their backgrounds, their families, etc. rather than the gore of the crimes itself. Our guide, Cecily, was very knowledgeable, and I learned a lot that I did not know. It wasn’t super exciting, but it was interesting, and I appreciated the focus of it (and we got over 20,000 steps that day!)

Day 6: We ventured from Marylebone to Warwick to spend the day seeing Warwick Castle. We chose this based on Rick’s book and on folks like you here who said “if you have kids/grandkids, go to Warwick”, so we did. It was a delightful day. We say the jousting and trebuchet demonstrations, went through the whole castle, walked the ramparts, and had lunch at the cafe there. We had prebooked tickets back to London, so we couldn’t explore the town as we ran out of time, but the town of Warwick itself seemed delightful and I think it would be worth a wander.

Day 7: We headed to the National Transport Museum in the morning. If you like all things London Transport and/or you have kids, I highly recommend this. It is very kid friendly and so interesting! You learn everything about the earliest modes of public transport through modern times. We had lunch at the cafe at the museum, which was just fine and filled hungry stomachs. We watched a street performer in Covent Garden, wandered some of the market stalls and then made our way to a timed entry to Westminster Abbey.

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Day 7 (cont): The Abbey wasn’t open to the public until 2:00 due to a service going on earlier in the day. I don’t know if this had anything to do with that since, there are only a certain number of tickets they allow on a given day anyway, but it was PACKED. I have been to Westminster Abbey many times, so I didn’t feel like I was missing out, but it was shoulder to shoulder. You could barely move, barely see anything. I have never seen it so packed. I guess, I would say if you’re going to go, get there and be in line first thing in the morning. Otherwise, it was just too crowded to be enjoyable. We had a lovely dinner at an Italian restaurant on Vauxhall Road called Il Posto. It was delicious. The whole wait staff was Italian and everything we had was great. It was a “splurge” dinner for us, but we really enjoyed it.

Day 8: Our last day! :( We went to the British Library to see the “Treasures Room”. Definitely not interesting for little kids, but our teens really liked it. The things there were fascinating and I think we were in and out in about and hour or 90 minutes. Our next stop was Hampton Court Palace. We got to the Palace around 11:45 and didn’t get a train back until almost 4:30. The weather was great, the Palace was not crowded at all and we saw everything. I’ve always loved Hampton Court and my kids really enjoyed it too.

Our trip came to an end and we got home ONE DAY before the tech. disaster that messed up all the airlines! Phew. Walked 58.1 miles/ 132,845 steps. Had a great time! Sorry this was so long. I hope it’s interesting/helpful to anyone planning a London trip. Again, I really appreciate all of your suggestions and help while I was planning!!

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2766 posts

Great report, thanks for posting it for us all!

I know that Pizza Express near the Globe Theater and you described it well. They used to try putting on airs by having servers offer freshly ground black pepper with these theatrically large grinders, and I started to explain that that isn't the kind of pepper that goes on pizza but I couldn't get through to them and gave up.

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7976 posts

Heather, thanks for the trip report! This will be very helpful for me next year when I take my grandson and granddaughter to London (they will be 14 and 11 then). Great tips and ideas! Sounds like you had a wonderful time!

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2783 posts

Have no trips with kids planned but I enjoyed reading this. We just returned last month from a trip to london with our 23 year old niece. Like you we rented an apartment which I think is key for happily traveling with multiple generations.

I have been to Warwick and remember thinking this would be so much more fun with kids!

The transportation museum sounds fascinating.

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9218 posts

Thank you for your trip report. Very pleased to know you all enjoyed your stay and exploration of London.

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57 posts

Thank you for all these details. I will reference this as I plan our family trip with 10-16 year old children. Sounds lovely. We love Shakespeare.

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Thanks for this trip report!
Planning to be in London in a few weeks and I've picked up a few more ideas--especially for the odd hour or two here and there.