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London: Feel the THUNDER!

A stormy British night: flashes of lightning and bone-shaking thunder, followed by curtains of marble-sized raindrops; a perfect night to be in a pub. Out here in Hampstead, the pubs are relatively empty and provide a respite from the masses swarming everywhere along the Thames.

I finally visited the Tower of London and was overwhemled by the number of people stuffed into the place and underwhelemed by the things to see once within the walls. Originally, the Tower was a place of torture, and yesterday, it still was. "Crammed cheek to jowel" is the saying my dad used to use (and among his sayings, the only one repeatable in polite company) and nowhere was the more true than to see the Crown Jewels. Somewhere in the fray were cases containing the jewels, but the heck if I saw those. I had more luck on the little moving walkway -- oo, pretty pretty! -- that and the back of about a thousand people's heads were all I really saw. Oh, and I did see the ravens ravening about, so that was pretty cool.

Equally packed today was Westminster Abbey. When I visited on the same day back in 2015, the place was nearly empty and we were able to wander freely: not so today. There had to be about 3,000 people jammed in there, and moving was hard enough without people stopping at every monument to take a photo (and I do mean every. single. one). I also wonder if this was the first church many people have visited given the number of photos -- selfies and otherwise -- people were taking of the altar. The namesake of my wife's family is interred in the Abbey. You can find her grave if someone would move the organ that's been covering it since 2015. I suspect that once someone does move the damned thing, they'll find the skeletons of a half-dozen tourists, still with phones in hand, under there.

Better was the Chruchill War Rooms, which had the advantage of being pricy and limited in tickets. My wife is reading The Splendid and the Vile, about Churchill's war years, and she richly enjoyed seeing all the sights talked about in the book. I enjoyed the part where there was less of a Black Hole of Calcutta vibe compared to the other places we visited. To be perfectly honest, the War Rooms were interesting and worth the money. In fact, some lucky family was being giving a private tour where they got to go into the actual rooms with an IWM docent. Talk about skip the line!

Not crowded at all, Hampstead Heath and Highgate Cemetary. Now this was a treat! Walking through the Heath reminded me of strolling through Central Park in New York City. Dogs -- so many dogs! -- ran joyously unfettered. The joggers and strollers and swimmers carried with them a vibe of enjoyment and I felt a bit of the pulse of the real London, or at least the posh part I'm staying in.

Of the many people interered in Highgate Cemetary, Karl Marx seems a crowd favorite, 'tho I was drawn to Douglas Adams. I missed the grave of the Barker family, one of which went down with the Titanic. Still, even without the "greatest hits", Highgate is still and quiet and mostly empty of the living. Of all the sights I saw on this final leg of my trip, Highgate Cemetary and Hampstead Heath were my favorites (my wife favored the War Rooms).

So London is packed and thundery, even this late into the season. The taxi drivers are delightfully chatty; the Uber drivers are Uber drivers. The unholy nexus of Revenge Travel and Golden Week is bearable, if only slightly so. Would I come to London again under the same circumstances? Probably not, but it's possible the "crowds" of 2015 are a thing of the past and the crowds of 2023 are the future, so suck it up, buttercup (another dad saying).

-- Mike Beebe

Posted by
468 posts

My first trip to London was 2000--helping lead a high school trip. And my favorite location was also Hampstead Heath! Very fond memories of that park. I had an afternoon off from the kids and that is right where I headed.

Posted by
491 posts

Mary:

I'm actually here right now. My report is from today and yesterday.

Pete:

Yeah, Hampstead is kind of in the middle of nowhere, but it's perfectly charming and the Heath is a true treasure!

-- Mike Beebe

Posted by
33817 posts

thanks for the good words about Hampstead - I'll be there again on Friday to listen to and view again the magnificent instruments there at Fenton House. Did you manage to get a crêpe at the crêpe window?

Hampstead (and its Heath) is one of my favourite LOndon villages....

Posted by
1252 posts

Karl Marx seems a crowd favorite

The Marx Memorial Library is in Clerkenwell. Try finding that in any American cities! Trotsky and Lenin both spent some time in London too. I suppose the dead communists provide some sort of counterpoint to the black cab drivers in the rich tapestry that is London. A Karl Marx walk is something I've fancied doing for a while. You see their posters a lot, as featured in a work by Gilbert & George at the top of the page I linked to. I intend to go to The Gilbert and George Centre soon and write about it on here. I'm not sure their work will appeal to many of the usual crew here.

I like Hampstead too. I can reach there on the Overground train without going near central London. A walk on the Heath and Parliament Hill is cracking. I can never go to Hampstead without thinking of the late George Michael's unfortunate coming together with Snappy Snaps in the High Street though.

Posted by
9219 posts

Fall travel is my favorite time of the year to enjoy London. Fewer tourists.

5 years ago a friend who had never been to London joined me on a mid November excursion. Used the 2 for 1 deal to enter Westminster Abbey. Wandered about easily. Maybe 25 people inside with us.

Same with Hampton Court Palace. Have pictures of the back garden with nary a solo but us.

Very little rain and often blue skies. Mild temperatures.

Good time to enjoy soups and stews.

Still dream of the bowl of pumpkin and sage soup I devoured at The Dove pub 2 years ago.

OP do hope besides The Spaniard Pub you stopped in both the Duke of Hamilton and The Stag in Belize Park.

One of my first ever pub visits was The White Bear. It was a true proper pub until it was sold and turned into a gastro pub. Ruined the entire ambience.

Posted by
2247 posts

Well Mike I will be in London the first week of October until mid October. It will be more or less my first visit.

I plan to explore the parks (weather permitting) and the museums.

I assume that the parks might be able to accommodate me and hopefully the museums will not be overcrowded. I like walking and wildlife watching. I will be meeting a distant cousin for the first time and reuniting with an old friend who I have not seen since the 1960's

I can not tolerate being stuffed in to anything or anywhere. There has to be some breathing and elbow room.

Appreciate your report.

Posted by
2247 posts

Nick from Murcia

I have been thinking about over tourism and how to best control it. If it continues to be a terrible problem, tourists might be forced to make a reservation to visit particular cities such as London and Amsterdam. I am not talking about a reservation to an attraction or a district. I am talking about a reservation to be allowed in to an entire city.