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London-as lovely as ever--part 2

Day trip to Bath on Tuesday from Paddington--Bath is quite enchanting, loved the perfectly preserved Georgian architecture, the Royal Crescent where I toured apartment #1 and walked the Circus and nearby gardens, toured the Roman Baths at 10:30 before it was crowded, had lunch a the Coeur de Lion pub, and finally got to visit my favorite bookstore, Persephone Books. They moved last year from London and I collect their wonderful reprints of mainly women writers from the 1800-1900s. They were delighted that I came all this way just to visit their shop and of course I bought far too many books...I had budgeted my suitcase weight for them, though. Arrived 9:45, left 5:45.

Saturday I took a guided tour of the Houses of Parliament, and that was quite a fascinating experience, I highly recommend it. I would like to return and see it in session. The tour was 1.5 hrs and I must admit I had no idea that it was a palace before becoming Parliament, or how old it is. I loved seeing inside the chambers, and how vastly different the House of Lords is from the Commons.

Wednesday morning was devoted to 2 special exhibits at the V&A--first at 10 am was Beatrix Potter: Drawn to Nature...always loved her works and the exhibit was full of memorabilia, photos, books, drawings, really delightful. I finished early and explored a bit before my 11:30 ticket for Faberge--that was really quite something to see, one exquisitely jeweled and enameled thing after another, with great explanatory cards. Just when I thought it was done, the final room was full of just the Imperial Easter Eggs--so stunning, I actually gasped out loud with joy. The V&A really does wonderful special exhibits, in the past I loved ones about Frida Kahlo and Mary Quant. Really good lunch in their cafe, then to see the fashion and jewelry exhibits.

Shopping at Liberty--3 times this trip, sigh. This is the most incredibly unique and fabulous store, just the sight of its Tudor exterior makes me happy. I am a quilter so of course I had to buy fabric, but also 2 needlepoint kits, candy, a Liberty print shower cap and a gift for a friend.

What I ate:
Mostly at pubs--The Hercules near the Lambeth Tube station after the IWM, Euston Flyer across from the British Library, Stanhope Arms and Hereford Arms within a block from my hotel. I made a special trip to the Camden market to have lunch at the Cheese Bar--all British artisan cheeses--grilled cheese, mac & cheese, etc--don't care much for the market itself but the Cheese Bar is worth a trip. Eggslut on Portobello Rd did a really yummy breakfast sandwich. For a really nice meal I ate at The Ivy in Soho. Harrod's magnificent food hall was my choice for dinner in my room the first night--lots of excellent choices, love their salads and spring rolls.

Covid things:
As has been noted in the Forum lately, very, very little mask wearing--not on the plane, nor in the airport, on public transit, in museums, shops or restaurants. I was there when it seemed to be school holidays, lots of families around, and I wore my mask unless I was outdoors. Still, the entire week I felt the sword of Damocles hanging over my head and by the time I took my test on Friday I was more than a bit anxious. I chose Collinsons at St Pancras--around $40 US, very swift swabbing and in 45 minutes I had my negative result. I decided to base what I hoped was my last day around a visit to the British Library to see the Treasures and then to the British Museum, with some wandering in Bloomsbury.

While I had an absolutely spectacular time, no issues whatsoever, and did everything on my itinerary plus lots of other little random walks & discoveries, picking up ideas for my next trip, I don't know if I will travel internationally again until the return test requirement is dropped. I felt I had missed small windows of opportunity last fall, and thus I eagerly grasped at my chance--no regrets!

Posted by
4811 posts

This trip just sounds like perfection. I may throw away the week plan I have saved for when I get to London and use yours. 🤣

Posted by
9220 posts

Well done! Wholeheartedly agree on pub lunches. Never been disappointed and on my usual November trips love having a bowl of soup or bangers and mash. Warms the soul.

Thanks for a stellar trip report. Good to know about Collinsons.

Posted by
4256 posts

I hear you Christa. I am actually in Sicily now and have to take my test today. Feeling quite anxious even though we wore masks indoors most of our trip. Hoping to get to London next April and will bookmark your report for suggestions. Glad you had a great trip.

Posted by
985 posts

What a lovely trip! The whole thing sounds like an enjoyable relaxed adventure doing what you wanted when you wanted, without rushing from A to B to C. Glad you got to savor your time in England.

Posted by
1419 posts

I too loved your trip report. Thanks for sharing.

Posted by
2688 posts

Travelmom--I kept gathering up places I needed to re-visit (some are musts on every trip there) and adding in new things, and when it came to the 2 day trips honestly there are so many towns that are within 2 hrs by train I can keep doing those forever and not see all of them. Bath was a must because of the wonderful book store--I made a FB post saying "when your favorite bookshop moves to Bath you get on a plane and a train and go visit them".

Claudia--pub food is my most favorite thing, sometimes hard to choose! A savory pie is usually the answer. What I noticed, being solo, is that in the late afternoon (I am sometimes ready for early dinner at 4:30--5 pm) they fill up with happy hour folks and it's hard to get a table, so lunch was usually easier. Funny thing--I ate at The Hercules, and a day later started reading Burning Bright by Tracy Chevalier, which is set in that neighborhood circa 1792, and the pub is mentioned, along with The Pineapple at the other end of the road.

Nance--I really made a point to explore surrounding areas even more so on this trip--the signposts with maps and street indexes are wonderfully helpful, showing me things that were nearby that I might not have realized despite being an avid map reader--I always have my Streetwise map at the ready!

Posted by
14976 posts

Hi,

Thanks for the recommendation of The Hercules. Every time in London I am at Lambeth North, but never ate in that area though.