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London--as lovely as ever--part 1

I returned last Saturday from 8 glorious solo days in London 4/22 - 4/30--my 4th visit, first international trip since I was last there in Sept 2019--to say I was overjoyed to be there again is an understatement, and I planned lots of things to do but also left time for happy wandering. The catalyst that prompted me to decide to go was seeing V&A ads for the Faberge: Romance to Revolution exhibit; tickets were going fast and I narrowed down my dates in late January once I saw that the UK dropped testing requirements to enter; it was the green light I'd been waiting for.

I flew United non-stop from SFO that had me arriving in London at 7 am on Friday--border control was quite busy, it took me 65 minutes to clear. I used around 60 on my Oyster card over 8 days; after much contemplation I decided I preferred to keep using the Oyster rather than a credit card or my phone. I used the Piccadilly line each way as my hotel was right across the street from the station, about 40 minutes. I walked 62 miles total!

I stayed at The Baileys Hotel on Gloucester Rd in South Kensington; I had stayed there in 2011 and loved it, then my next 2 trips chose the Bayswater area. The hotel was as wonderful as before--I had a Deluxe Double and was quite pleased with it, very spacious, well-appointed, comfy bed and quiet, even more so that it was ready for me when I arrived at 10 am. 2 good pubs nearby, a Tesco, and a Starbucks.

What I packed--weather ranged from 52-62, so duplicate wears and sink washing:
2 Garnet Hill light cashmere V necks, avocado green and black, 1 charcoal cotton/rayon sweater
5 tops - only wore 3 of them, 2 Garnet Hill surplice front in black and also black w/ white stripe and a Smoking Lily Ina in black
3 pairs Hudson jeans, only wore 1 black and 1 of the dark denim
Perfect Calvin Klein lightweight rayon black jacket--it dresses up, it dresses down, it is fabulous
2 pairs boots--black Pikolinos Vicar and green Fluevog Penney--only wore those twice
2 rayon scarves, 4 each Smartwool socks and undies, 2 bras, nightie, Giesswein wool scuffs, LeSportsac Everyday crossbody in black

What I did:
Tower of London--perfect outdoors setting when jet-lagged and I always want to see the ravens right away--they are preparing to molt and thus preoccupied with preening their feathers, but always mischievous & happy to get treats from people. Good lunch at the Armoury Cafe.

Portobello Road market on Saturday morning--disappointing this visit; more empty stalls, or ones that weren't open, but I also love the charity shops. Left by 11:30 just as crowds were surging in.

Covent Garden Market on Monday--they have antiques that day, also explored the nearby area and Cecil Court which had several great antiquarian book shops & a great antiques shop.

British Museum--I am not a fan of antiquities so this was my first visit & I zeroed in on the European rooms, specifically Sutton Hoo. 3 hrs and done.

Imperial War Museum--loved this! Great job with WWII, my favorite war, & also separate Holocaust floor. Spent 3 hrs.

I went to see Hamilton at the Victoria Palace Theatre on Wednesday night--loved the irony of seeing it in London, and it was wonderful, sorry I waited so long!

Hampton Court--train from Waterloo had me there just before opening, spent about 4.5 hrs exploring the palace & grounds, fed some crows, jackdaws, magpies & ducks & had a great lunch at the Tiltyard Cafe. Had hoped to visit the Royal School of Needlework shop but it wasn't open--maddeningly I could see people inside stitching :(

Day trip to Canterbury on Sunday from St Pancras--what a beautiful day, loved wandering the little streets, the gardens along the river, and visiting the Cathedral. Lots of used book stores--including one in the lopsided building, and the one antique shop that had cool stuff in the window was of course only open on Saturdays. Great late lunch at the Lady Luck pub. Arrived 10 am, left at 4:30.

Posted by
1206 posts

Christa, what wonderful wonderful descriptions! I really appreciate your sharing your itinerary and insights! It's been some years since I was back in London - spent a week there in 2010 and did a semester study abroad there ages ago and loved it! You've helped me move London to near the top of my list once the test-before-flying-back-to-US requirement is lifted. I especially appreciate that you did this trip solo - often my preferred travel style. You make it clear that a wonderful time can be had throughout London and beyond if done thoughtfully and joyfully! Thank you!

Posted by
1446 posts

Loved your detailed descriptions! Especially your wardrobe; you looking like Emma Peel! I used to travel solo and had a wonderful time traveling around England...always had a great time taking to people in Museum cafes. Speaking of Sutton Hoo, I assume you have see the "The Dig". I also love the "Detectorists" TV show of Treasure Trove hunters. I later toured Flea Markets throughout England, Scotland, and Wales with my Husband and toured tons of National Trust and English, Scottish and Welsh Heritage Sites. Too hard to leave home these days, but I can cherish the vivid memories that you can have when travel.

Really great information. Your posts have given me a lot of inspiration and joy. I also want to see Hamilton at the Victoria Palace Theatre on Wednesday night--loved the irony of seeing Thank you for your sharing. https://solitairespider.co/ online

Posted by
2602 posts

Kathleen--yes, I watched The Dig--honestly might not have toured the British Museum if not for the Sutton Hoo finds...I was actually quite taken with the other treasure troves there that have been unearthed in people's gardens or building sites, seems Britain is full of incredible things! I am a huge vintage flea market fan--collectables is probably a better word for the 1900s-1950s stuff I have decorated my home with--and always searching for them when I travel. Paris, Amsterdam & Budapest are particular favorites. Just didn't get lucky with shops in England this trip--my pocketbook is relieved!

Posted by
2602 posts

Jmauldinuu--this was my 13th solo trip and I must say I am spoiled by being able to set my own pace and wander at will. My best friend will be going to London next week, and while we discussed going together, with all the uncertainty of covid we figured keeping our trips solo for now was best.

Posted by
2329 posts

This makes me so excited to go to London for the first time next year.