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London and circle tour of Scotland

Well, the forum ate my post last night so I had to start chapter 1 from scratch!

Anyhow - here is the link to a massive 500+ photo journal of our tour of Scotland FEAT: myself and my 20 year old son.

https://flic.kr/s/aHsm6o3FpX

Our trip began out of LAX nonstop to London Heathrow via Virgin Atlantic. We enjoyed the service and the entertainment on board and would fly VA again.

Grabbed the Heathrow Express train to Paddington and transferred to the tube (we had purchased pre-loaded oyster cards which work for the tube and the Gatwick express but NOT the Heathrow Express). I liked the 15 minute ride vs making a bunch of stops and to me it was worth the premium price tag. You can buy the tickets for a specific time for the first use, and then get a standard return to use up to one year after, it will save some money vs buying at any number of vendors on the way to the trains, or on board from the conductor.

We overnighted near the British Museum and found the location was very much the London of our minds! The food at the Museum Tavern was ok, but the beer selection was good and the mince pie was a solid introduction to pub grub and a menu we would find repeated all over the areas we visited. After going back to the room for a quick recline, we headed out to meet a friend for a pub crawl. Starting at St. Paul’s, up to a skybar, across the Millennium bridge, and to a pub by the Tate Modern then ending at an old pub with a modern twist inside. It was an amazing intro to London and a highlight on the very first night of the adventure.

Up early (with a bit of ouch from a couple too many pints) for a quick look at scaffolded Big Ben and Westminster Abbey before taking the tube to Victoria station to get the Gatwick express. We arrived in Edinburgh and took the bus to Waverly with no issue. We had chosen to stay on the royal mile at the Raddison Blu and were VERY happy with our decision. It was very easy to walk to all the main sights, and the staff was wonderful with suggestions for food and activities. Had an amazing steak dinner and hit the bed early for our first full day in Scotland.

The Edinburgh castle was our first stop of the morning on a clear and windy day. The castle was amazing although the large memorial building was closed for a concert so we were unable to enter. After a stroll down the mile a ways, we took a cab to the park for our hike to the seat. I had not done the research so we ended up taking the trail to the right along the crags instead of up the trail to the seat. As it turned out, it was a perfect walk that got our blood pumping, gave great views of the city, and led us to the valley between the peaks for a beautiful hike to the small ruins above the huge park. It was a perfect intro to hiking in Scotland and amazing that it was a 15 minute walk up the mile to our hotel. We went to the Greengrass district for lunch and could see just how inspired JK must have been while writing her famous books. It really is HP come to life. Back to the hotel for a rest and then we had a delightful evening out at the http:/ /www.royal-oak-folk.com/page8.html £5 cover and a couple of pints will get you two 45 minute music sets and a raffle at the break! It was a great night, and we enjoyed a kebab pita on the way home for dinner.

Next morning saw my first attempt at the left side of the road. Grabbed a rental car at Waverley and headed out to Stirling Castle. We loved the castle, but also our stop at https://www.stirlingbagpipes.com. We bought a custom made set of highland pipes from Alan, and enjoyed the October quiet as we spent the afternoon chatting and building our set while he told stories and imparted info, and even enjoyed his Braveheart sword! It was a gem of a visit and another highlight of the trip.

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Our destination was Pitlochry and we arrived in time to check in at our guest house http://www.claymorehotel.com/. We headed into town for dinner at The Old Mill which was fantastic, and then back to our comfy beds for a great night’s sleep. Breakfast was amazing (full Scottish plus Euro buffet meats, cheese, and cereal) and our host gave great advice for our drive to Inverness. We took a quick walk to view the massive damn and fish ladder and then had a quick stroll down the main drag before heading out toward Inverness. We made stops at The Queen’s View and The Falls of Bruar. Both were jaw dropping views after short hikes, and the shopping center at Bruar is pretty cool and has a ton of high end food, clothes, and souvenir options. We went north past Inverness for a visit to Culloden and the cairns nearby.

We arrived at Inverness and had a white knuckle moment as the car’s navi took us down the one way loading only streets before we realized that our hotel wasn’t really accessible by car. We re routed and dumped it in the multi level garage and walked to https://www.blackislebrewery.com/barandrooms/. I loved our great (but spartan) ensuite room that overlooked the ‘secret garden’ an outdoor heated and covered area that’s great for a nightcap with the restaurant’s own pizza and organic beer on tap. Inverness was great and we enjoyed our evening checking out music and food as well as walking by the river and climbing to the castle.

Next day was going to be a long one and we left early for Loch Ness and Castle Urquhart. Arriving before the crowds on a clear day was crazy good and I enjoyed the Urquhart site a lot even though it’s very tourist friendly. We traveled on past the Eilean Donan castle (low tide but still amazing) and then on to Skye via the Skybridge to Portree. We stayed at a lovely property, but did not expect the town to be as small or as limited as it ended up being. We did the upper loop that afternoon and opted to skip the hike up to Storr after climbing to the first ridge from the road only to see just how far it was to get to the viewpoint above the rocks. We opted to do two shorter hikes in the Kilt Rock area and went to the quiraing rather than staying far north. We returned via Uig to the hotel for a late afternoon rest. We were scheduled to stay a 2nd day, but decided to leave a day early to have more time in the Glen Coe area to enjoy forests vs the rugged barren Skye.

We had a horrible meal at the Well Plaid, and would recommend making meal plans in advance in Skye. The town is quite small and the choices are really limited. This is the point of the trip where we realized we preferred a little larger town as a base rather than a tiny coastal town with tons of charm but few services. Pitlochry and Ft. William were much better..

We had great service from http://bosvillehotel.co.uk/ and they provided a great breakfast, excellent guidance and were very nice in refunding our 2nd night when we decided we'd like to move on early.

We left Portree for Tallisker and distillery tour and tasting which was an awesome experience and the location and drive was really stunning and rugged. We left there and headed out to the fairy pools. The wind was gusting so hard through the valley that it would blow people off the path, and the sun was not out so there was no blue. It was a really good cardio hike, but there were other waterfalls and pools that we saw that were more impressive IMHO. Backtracking off Skye, it was our hope to have lunch in Plockton, but we arrived at 2:30 and the cutoff for lunch at the one and only place was 2:15 (it is later in Oct and a lot of the smaller shops are closed for the season in tiny places like this). Oh well, cliff bars, water, and almonds from the road for lunch. Heading back past the Donan castle and on to the Ft William area!

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After deciding to leave Skye, we booked an adorable guest room last minute at http://www.culacrick.co.uk/ where the owners were adorable, the room comfy, and it was 20 minutes from the main drag in Ft. William. Went to town for a seafood dinner which was a highlight and truly a taste of the area with mussels and whiskey! Ft. Williams was the perfect size town for me and their main street was the classic bend of retail, tourist, pubs, and food options for what we enjoy as a home base town. No breakfast available at the property, and it's remote (you can't walk to Ft. William for breakfast), but the nearby hotel let us partake of their breakfast for £10 which was a solid value for a full Scottish plus buffet options.

We wanted to hike to the falls in Ben Nevis, but the morning brought clouds to the ground that obscured everything but the tree tops. I had to go back to Ft. William as I had left my raincoat in a dressing room while trying on kilts. We were there on a rainy Sat am, and unknown to us, there was a bagpipe and walking parade (??) down the main street with pipers and drums, plus people carrying signs naming the area they were from. It was so magical and unexpected and another one of those moments you can't predict.

We opted for a trip to Glenfinnan for a shot at seeing the Harry Potter train. We arrived and made the quintessential mistake of parking at the visitor's center. This resulted in us hiking to the view above the shop which was a panorama of the valley, but the train and viaduct was a huge distance away. We decided to hike across a really soggy bog (which ate one of my son's shoes and was NOT a highlight of the trip for him) and waited out the train in the drizzle until the whistle sounded and the Jacobite steam train arrived at about 10:45. IT WAS MAGICAL EVEN FROM FAR AWAY!!! As a Potter fan I was in heaven. This area is stunning and an amazing stop for anyone IMHO. In retrospect, the shot of the train coming at you, along with the concrete path right up to the viaduct can be found in the 2nd lot (coming from the Ft. William area) where you can part and walk right up to the bridge and climb past the tracks and view the train from straight on.

We headed on to Glencoe for our night at https://www.islesofglencoe.co.uk/ which was a stunning location and our room had a ridiculous view. The property was a bit dated and showed many years of use, but it was clean and comfortable and had a little town with a few good eating places plus full facilities at the property.

We took an afternoon drive out into the Weeping Glen and took a short hike out into the lost glen. A little further down the road I had been challenged to recreate a shot from the James Bond movie Skyfall. We did our best and then headed back to the hotel stopping by town to make reservations for dinner that evening. We had learned at this point that if you don't want pub food, you MUST (even in off season, I can't imagine summer) make dinner reservations. We had an amazing meal at http://www.thelarochrestaurantandbar.co.uk/menu.html which was definitely elevated bar food! YUM!

Leaving the next morning we were headed to a place where we had heard you could feed a set of highland coos https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g190803-d2579451-r147325355-Trossachs_Woollen_Mill-Callander_Loch_Lomond_and_The_Trossachs_National_Park_Sco.html but arrived in the rain to find that the coos had been taken off display for the season. SO SAD! We went into the store and spoke to a LOVELY lady at the register who drew out on a paper bag directions to their winter pasture, and then went back into the kitchen to get us a bag of potatoes and apples do take! We drove out and found them in a gorgeous pasture above the loch and a much better photo op than we would have ever gotten at the store! These are huge and majestic creatures and to see them this close was amazing.

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Carrying on down the road we stoped at Drover's Inn for a pint in this haunted old stone hotel, we drove past Loch Lomond and on into Glasgow for our final night. We went out for pizza at the insanely crowded, and insanely good http://paesanopizza.co.uk

Got up in the am and headed out to near Stirling for a visit to the Wallace Monument and one last thigh burning hike up a hill. It was a fun visit, a nice drive, good weather (although windy and cold) and even thought the sword may be fake, it was a great last visit before heading back to the airport to drop the car and head back to London for a last night before heading back to LAX. The Glasgow airport has tons of food choices and I'd say it's a good stop for a meal before flying out.

Our last evening in London we stayed right at Paddington station as we had a 10am flight and wanted to give 2+ hours for the airport.

It was a good thing we did, as the security screening was a PIA as my 6 tiny bottles of souvenir whiskey triggered a hand screening at both Glasgow and Heathrow. My son was feeing tired and not super hungry so he opted to stay in cozy at the hotel, while I met another friend and went out for curry. Was a great last night, and an amazing trip overall. Once again thanks to the RS community for the research and opinions that I found on this awesome forum. Hope this helps pay it forward for others.

Posted by
1518 posts

Wonderful "you are there" photos. I enjoyed the up close and personal style. Too many of my friends send us cold blooded scenics on Facebook. Yours had human or animal interest or lovely rushing waters. You did a great job picking some iconic shots...I could identify where you were without captions. I especially loved the lobster/crawfish plate...I could almost taste it. Thanks for the vicarious trip!

Posted by
681 posts

Loved your trip report. This is a trip I have been planning so it was great to see all that you accomplished. Thanks

Posted by
174 posts

Tom your pictures are great! Thank you for sharing. I was in Scotland late April early May and your pics brought back the beauty of Scotland for me. Of course I have the itch to go back.

Posted by
49 posts

Your pictures are great. Scotland is on my list but it just moved higher. Great trip report also.

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1043 posts

Thank you for taking time to write a detailed report and to share photos! I will be going to Scotland in July 2018 and took some notes especially about needing to make dinner reservations and the car park location for the Viaduct. I have just finalized my accommodation and itinerary after realizing many places were already booked solid for the summer. I did not realize Scotland was so popular. The last time I was in Scotland was 36 years ago. I. can't wait to go back to really appreciate the scenery and culture.

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107 posts

Thanks for your detailed report and specific comments, especially about the Heathrow Express. We'll be using it next week as we head to Edinburgh.

Posted by
10192 posts

Tom, what a fantastic, fantastic trip you and your son had. Thanks for sharing in so much detail. You're making me yearn for Scotland and especially a return to Glenfinnan. We didn't have long enough there last year, and the time we did have was almost completely washed out by intense rain. (I loved how you related that your son's losing his shoe in a bog was NOT his favorite part of the trip! haha).

Thanks for taking time to write such a detailed trip report.

p.s. edit to add: Loved looking at your photos, which reminded me of what a special time this must have been to share with your soon. And I just loved that you had a picture of your trip planning google doc in there !!

You really did it up right -- covered a lot of ground and saw an enormous number of gorgeous places. I'm very jealous.

Posted by
3561 posts

Great report! We are doing Scotland this summer. Lots of good tips in your report, we will be making advance reservations for dinner and staying at the Bosville hotel, cause they were so good to u!

Posted by
3483 posts

Thoroughly enjoyed your trip report, and your photos are wonderful.
I lived in Scotland as a child, then again as a student; so have a great love for the country.
I was in Edinburgh this past September, but not for long enough.
Got to go back soon!