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London again, but this time not as the leader of the band

Several months ago, my daughter decided she wanted to return to her favorite city, London. She asked if I would like to go with her and I happily agreed. We last went June 2023, she, her brother and I. This was a trip she planned- with my suggestions from my RS fam of course!

She wanted to do and see some things that she had not seen during her previous visits there. We did that, and more! :)

Day I: We arrived from IAD early to Heathrow at 6:30 AM. We took British air this time which was a considerable improvement on the flight experience from United in 2023. The seats were more comfortable (although I did pre-purchase an aisle seat for each of us).

I had pre-booked the Heathrow Express to Paddington. After customs, we actually arrived at the Premier Inn Paddington station around 7:30 AM. It was a very smooth and quick ride in and I highly recommend it for anyone staying in the Paddington area who can pay ahead of time to get the cheapest tickets prices.

When we got to the hotel, which is literally directly across the street from the Paddington tube stop, I asked if there could be an early check-in, (not at 7:30 mind you) but before three. I was told that they were sold out the night before and an early check-in was probably not an option. I do wish now in hindsight, I had booked the night before our arrival so that we could’ve checked in, put our bags away, gotten a shower and maybe taken a quick nap. I’m going to tuck that away for the next trip if we get there on such an early flight.

They offered to hold our luggage and told us to come back and possibly check in to see if a room was ready later in the late morning. so we gave them our bags and off we went.

I shared with her many of the RS forum recommendations , especially for the food/restaurant choices. They were all really good and I greatly appreciate knowing about them ahead of time. First choice for breakfast this morning was Sheila’s. It was a cute little place near the hotel and the food was delicious, but the coffee was even better!

After breakfast, we headed down to Hyde Park and walked around. It was drizzling enough to warrant an umbrella and chilly, but not too bad. It felt so good to be outside! There were swimmers swimming in the Serpentine that I just found amazing. Swimming right alongside the geese and ducks, in the rain, in the chilly weather. My son was a former swimmer, and I just had to send him pictures of these people getting on with it, walking to the lake in their speedos while I had on my trenchcoat! it was a sight for sure!

We then headed over to the V &A museum, which we missed the last time that we were here. It was such a vast museum, almost overwhelming with all of the items and different collections. The medieval and renaissance hall were of particular note to my daughter and I. So many interesting and incredible pieces to see!

One thing that I was kind of surprised by was the amount of dust that you could see on some of the more notable items. For example, the cast of David had a layer of dust on various parts of the sculpture that was very noticeable. As a museum professional, my daughter noticed it immediately. There seems to be a need for more attention given to the dusting/cleaning of some of the open objects. I don’t know if it is because of budgeting or just the vast amount of pieces that require care in this museum’s collection that causes the issue, but it was surprising.

We also really loved the jewelry and the stained glass section. It is such a vast museum. I just read Carrie’s trip report and she mentioned doing a tour through there. I think that is a great idea because it does narrow down your focus. We took a nice break in the beautiful café and had a scone and tea. The ambience there is lovely.

We then headed back to the hotel around 1 to check on possibly getting into a room, but there were none to be had. So we headed down to walk around Mayfair.

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Day 1 continues…

My daughter acted as tour guide most of the time and used Google Maps for the majority of the trip. It served us well. Mayfair was another area we didn’really explore much of before. I had copied a walking tour from an online site and followed that. We enjoyed poking around there.

We ended the first day by heading over to Selfridges to ogle at the size and contents
of that store. I was beginning to tire, so we decided to head to a pub. We took Claudia’s advice and went to the Victoria Paddington. Really nice pub with a great atmosphere and the food was delicious. Thanks Claudia!

We headed back to the Premier Inn about 4:30 and our room was ready. I asked about the restaurant closure situation. They said it was a broken water main that did pretty extensive damage. There was no evidence of this in the lobby or hallways, though, thank goodness. It’s a shame that it happened to a new hotel.

We had booked a twin and it was immaculate. The bigger bed was a queen size snd there was a made up twin sized bed. This was our first Premier Inn stay and I can see why all of you are so happy with it. The beds, pillows, and the duvet/comforter were AMAZING! I have already informed my husband that I am ordering a set for us at home.

We forced ourselves to stay awake till 7. I really had a fitful time getting to sleep this first night, unfortunately. Not sure what to attribute this to, other than the fact that compared to last trip I was able on the arrival morning to check in early and get a reprieve- shower, fresh up, etc. I think I was just over tired. Next time, I will budget for that extra night for sure.

It was a very full, fun day to start our adventure!

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For real Claudia about the swimmers! The image of us in our coats, standing next to the Serpentine Lido when it’s chilly enough to see our breath, taking pictures of the ducks and swans as a forty-ish chap (in only his best speedo and swim cap) comes walking down from the car park to swim with the others will be a long time remembrance. :)

Thanks for the link! I just sent it to my son. He’ll love it! So much fun!

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Day 2 We had breakfast at Treelogy, which is right beside the hotel. It is a nice spot to eat a bit of porridge and coffee before being on your way. This turned out to be our best weather day: a sunny, crisp Autumn day and it was just lovely. We started the day at the British Library. I loved this museum. While the collections here are obviously not on the scale of some of the other London museums, this place had the exhibits that really spoke to my interests. I could have stayed here for a long time! The only downside was six or so of the Beatles items in that exhibit were temporarily removed, but the others were amazing. I thoroughly enjoyed seeing the Education and the Biblical cases. Just fascinating. Their gift shop was very nice, too.

We went from there by bus up to Camden Market and Camden Locks. What a cool place! My daughter checked out so many of the vintage stalls. You could spend a day just going through them. I was surprised how crowded it was for a weekday in the fall. I can’t imagine how it would be during high tourism season. We had lunch at “The Cheese Bar” (another RS forum suggestion). We each had the best grilled cheese sandwich, chips and ginger beers. The people running this restaurant were so warm and friendly. Highly recommend. Along the canals, we saw a long boat “captained” by three women who were making their way through the locks. It was fascinating to see two of them get out and begin to turn the lock mechanism to enable the boat -steered by the third woman-to continue through.

We then headed to the big Sainsbury’s in Camden Town. Stocked up on British chocolates and digestives. If our bag had been bigger, we’d have bought a lot more! Great selection there. We carried our goods and walked over to Regent's Park and walked up Primrose Hill to relax and take in the view of the London skyline. We may have eaten just a few while digestives there :)

Next stop was Abbey Road, to see the studios and walk the iconic crossing. I didn’t remove my shoes, but I was grinning ear to ear while doing this. Watching people trying to time their attempts and not interfere with traffic was quite a site! I think the cars gave me a break - maybe they are more courteous for “pensioners.” lol As a Beatles fan, I really wanted to see this spot and it was a lot of fun.

We then headed to the Beatles store for me to finish my Beatles fix for the day before heading back to Paddington. With the big lunch (and a few Sainsbury’s treats) still on our stomachs, we opted for a meal deal
from M & S Food at the station and took it across the street back to the room. Having our hotel so centrally located really was nice on this day because we were toting quite a bit of stuff!

It was a beautiful and enjoyable day. We logged 20k steps and slept so much better this night.

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Day 3 Part 1
We had an early morning booking to attend the Houses of Parliament audio tour. We ate at Gail’s outside Paddington station which proved to be one of our favorite spots for a light meal. The porridge and scones are made on site. Delicious!

We then headed down to Westminster, or at least we thought we were heading towards Westminster. This was the only time that my very efficient tour guide got a little turned around because of the engineering work that was being done. Fortunately, we sorted ourselves out and got to the Houses of Parliament about 15 minutes after our dedicated time stamp. For anyone wanting to know, they will still admit you if you are a little late for the audio tour, not the guided tour. So actually when I thought I should change the tickets from guided to audio, this worked out for us in the end.

The Houses of Parliament tour proved to be one of my favorite things that we did. The audio tour lasted about an hour, and it was so full of information that I found extremely intriguing. It was so interesting to find out about the background of what occurs before you see what is shown at times on US television. I think at a future visit, I may return just to hear more if I go to the guided tour, but really felt like I got a lot out of the one we went on. We left the Houses of Parliament tour after eating lunch and tea at their very nice café. Our seat at the table was in front of a window that looked directly up at Big Ben. Can’t get much better than that!

We then headed to Pimlico. This was an area that my daughter had never been around and she wanted to see it as well as to find a knitting store called Beautiful Knitters for her to get yarn and supplies to carry home. I liked walking around Pimlico a great deal. When I was researching flats to stay in last two summers ago, several of them were in the Pimlico neighborhood, and I did not know how I would like it, but I would not hesitate to stay there if we go back again. After walking a bit, we found the shop. I must say there were a lot of very passionate people about knitting spending time there! I am not a knitter myself, but my daughter said that they quality of the yarn and the helpfulness of the staff were really great. It’s a tiny little place, and it was so crowded. I decided to sit outside on the stoop and enjoy the atmosphere of the neighborhood.

After making all of her purchases for future Christmas present projects, we walked a little more and then decided to head back to the hotel for a little rest before we got ready to go to dinner prior to the play. The only thing we had on today’s itinerary that we did not get to was to go to the National Gallery. I was feeling a little tired from all the walking and I was worried that I would not enjoy the play as much if we tried to squeeze in a few hours at that museum. It proved to be a good decision, I think, but I will try to go to that museum if I return.

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Day 3 Part 2
After resting a bit, we changed and headed down to Soho and had dinner at the Lyric. This was our second favorite pub after Victoria Paddington. I can’t remember which of you suggested this place, but we thank you for that suggestion. We ate upstairs, and the vibe was just terrific. We had a little time before the show so we shopped a bit at Hatchards and Waterstones. I could spend a day in Hatchards alone.

Some of you who have been following my discussion about my upcoming trip may be wondering why we went to the 7:30 performance of Macbeth when I had originally had tickets for the 2:30 matinee. (and changed the guided/audio tour at H of P)
After buying the balcony tickets, I had a friend from the UK, who knows a little bit about West End theatre. She told me to keep looking online and that return tickets for better seats could possibly show up. SoI did, and sure enough, I was able to snag two seats for the night performance in the stalls section! Fortunately, the Harold Pinter theater accepted my return of the balcony seats and refunded my money toward the new tickets. We had a really good seats in stalls row R, right on the end of the row.

This performance of Macbeth was absolutely incredible! David Tennant and Cush Jumbo were brilliant, as was the entire performing cast. For this performance, you used headphones to wear during the entirety of the performance. It was a sensory experience that is hard to describe. At times I could actually hear David Tennant’s breathing. Crazy good. My daughter is a huge fan of Shakespeare and an even bigger David Tennant fan, so this night was incredibly special for her. She told me that this was HER Taylor Swift concert. Lol

After the after the performance took their bows to a standing ovation, she wanted to bolt out the door to see if she could see David Tennant at the stage door and potentially get his autograph on her program. I stood in the back while she waited at the railing along with probably 100 other people. As he moved down the line signing the programs, he was so gracious. My daughter, after getting her autograph, thanked him for a wonderful performance, and he looked up at her and spoke to her and told her she was very welcome. I’m sure this will be a memory that she will have for a long time. He comes across as a very kind and humble human being.

It was a very special day for us all the way around. We got back to the hotel and tried to go to sleep, but I have to admit it was hard!

For those interested, I did receive an email that said this Macbeth performance will be in theaters starting February 5. I’m not sure when it will be in the US, or what cities it will be in, but I would go see it at the theater in a heartbeat!
Here is a link to the information about the theater show times

https://www.macbethdonmarcinema.com/?utm_source=Donmarwarehouse.com&utm_campaign=DonmarWebsiteorNewsletter&utm_medium=Banner

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Day 4

We slept in a little bit on the Sunday after the Macbeth performance. We went to Mimo’s Cafe for breakfast. It was another really good choice that was recommended from the forum. Afterward, we headed down to the Globe Theatre for a potential tour. We hadn’t bought tickets ahead of time, but we ended up walking right in to a tour that was just about to start. It was a fascinating tour, led by a wonderful young lady who obviously knew so much about Shakespeare, the theater and its history in early London. She was great and we really enjoyed ourselves during the hour tour.

We took the bus to Brick lane and walked all through the market checking out the street art, the stalls, etc. but I think I preferred Camden Market to this one. We tried to go to Beigel Bake but the line was so long. It was a beautiful Sunday morning and the area was really hopping. We ate our lunch at Kahaila before walking to Spitalfields and more of Shoreditch. Kahaila was a really nice spot and I was particularly impressed with their dedication to their community and their charity based business model. This part of London has a totally different feel from the neighborhoods that I had been into before. Very trendy and pulsating. It was very interesting to see so many different London neighborhoods on this trip to compare their feel.

Since it was Sunday, we knew that the Columbia Flower Market would be held, so we walked over to that. Vendors of all different kinds of plants and flowers lined the entire street. People were carrying huge palm trees and various types of potted plants back to their homes; there was such a variety of offerings! Again, it was very crowded here. I cannot imagine what it would be like in the summer or high season.

We took the bus back up through the East End toward St. Pauls Cathedral. I was really hoping to get to the Evensong service, and we just made it! It was a lovely service, the choral hymns sound so incredible in this space.

After church, we took the tube back to Oxford Street bc my daughter wanted to go into Marks & Spencer. We really enjoyed shopping in this department store, as it had clothing and items that were more in our price range! Lol I think my daughter will be purchasing quite a few things from there online and having them shipped to the US. She liked it so much.

We grabbed a dinner from Pret and headed back to the hotel. We were averaging 18-20k steps per day, so those Premier Inn beds felt especially great as the trip began to wind down.

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Day 5 Final Day and Morning of Departure

For our last day, we left for Hampstead Heath, followed by Highgate. It was the rainiest of our days, particularly in the morning. We had breakfast again at Gail’s near Paddington station before taking the multiple tube connections to get up to Hampstead. We walked through several of the neighborhood streets looking at all of the beautiful homes- my goodness they were stunning- before it began raining fairly hard. We ducked into Daunt bookstore and spent a almost an hour looking into books we want to read when we get home. I did purchase a wonderful paperback, “Kala” by an Irish author, Colin Walsh. It’s really good! Highly recommend!

Afterward we walked down through the village and went into a cancer research thrift shop. My daughter picked up a couple of designer tops that she was very happy about. I found my sweet robin’s egg blue tea pot in a nice home goods store. Then it was on to the Heath. What a superb park! Fortunately, the rain had mostly stopped, and it was just a light drizzle. There were so many people out walking all of their wonderful dogs; it was just like a day you would imagine in an English park: drizzly, overcast, cool and quiet. The dogs were running around and were so happy to be in the wet grass and mud. We saw one retriever carrying its owner’s long handled yellow umbrella in his mouth. I thought it was perfect! We walked up to Parliament Hill, which is a really neat place to see the London skyline, but because of the fog and the rain we really didn’t get a good view. With effort we could pick out some of the iconic London sites in the distance, though.

We left Hampstead Heath and traveled by bus up to Highgate village. We walked on the main road, very quaint, and once again saw a Gail’s to have lunch and a cup of tea. I told you we really like this place! :) Their pumpkin soup was incredibly delicious on a cool, drizzly day. We then went to Highgate cemetery. We had considered taking a tour, but it was over an hour away from when we got there, so we just decided to do our own. It is a huge cemetery with an east side and a west side. With the entry fees, you are given a map that that details many of the notable people who are buried there. I was most interested in seeing the burial site of the singer/ musician George Michael, who I just adore, as well as the writers George Eliot and Douglas Adams. It was a unique visit place to visit.

From there we walked back through Islington ( this neighborhood doesn’t do as much for me) to get to the tube to go back to paddington. We stopped in at our room and dropped off our purchases, before heading down to Little Venice and the Rembrandt Gardens. This was our last night, and we went back-and-forth about which pub to go to. We were going to go to the Swan, but then we decided that we would try something closer so we opted for another that was right near Little Venice called The Bridge House. We ordered fish and chips. The ambience and drinks were great, but the fish and chips were mediocre.

Last morning:

We took Heathrow express back to the airport. So easy. While we were walking around waiting for our departure, I happened to see a store that sold carrying cases. Lo and behold there was a stand with Roka London backpacks! I’ve been thinking about getting one of these since so many of you have talked about them. This was my big splurge! I got a Canfield version in an ochre color. I just love it and used it to go home. I told my daughter that all of my Rick Steves friends would be happy for me! :)

We had such an amazing time during this trip! I feel indebted to so many of you for sharing so much advice and suggestions that I passed on. We made a lot of great memories that will be cherished. I’m already planning to go back to England, but I think next time we will head out to the countryside. There’s so much more to see!

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Mustlovedogs, what a great report! It sounds like you and your daughter had a wonderful time, and I really enjoyed reading about it!

The theatre sounded like an incredible experience! Macbeth is one of my favorite plays. In fact, I stage managed a production back in college and still can quote many lines from it by heart; especially his "tomorrow and tomorrow and tomorrow" monologue near the end. I also loved your description of Parliament. I have never done a tour there, so I think I will definitely change that next time.

I'm especially pleased that you managed to find (and buy!!!) a Roka bag! I met up with a forum friend yesterday in Minnesota, and we were both carrying our bags, lol! She had a crossbody bag and now I want one of those!!!

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Hi, It sounds like you also had a great trip! So many different things to see and do in London. I can see why Claudia has to keep going back every year. :-)

I just added Kala to my amazon shopping cart. Thanks for the book recommendation.

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What a fantastic trip, and I’m so glad you explored so many different parts of London.

Outdoor swimming is a year-round activity for a lot of people here - particularly amongst middle aged and older women. I’m more of a May to November sea swimmer but I have been in December and March. When Mardee was here at Easter I showed her the little beach near me and sure enough, there were people swimming.

ROKA backpacks are great. I was at the cinema recently and had to move to let another woman into her seat. “Nice backpack,” she said - and sure enough she had one too. Definitely a sense of community.

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mardee- it was an amazing presentation of this play. I’ve only seen it once other time in the states, but my daughter worked pt in her younger years at a Shakespearean playhouse and, like you, worked on the set design for their shows. She was blown away by the choices they made for this production. The performance they are using for the theaters is coming from the Donmar and from the trailer, it looks like there are a couple of changes from what we saw, so I can’t wait to see that one as well. Just hope it is shown in a theatre close to me.

Golden Girl- Yes, finding that backpack (and my little blue tea pot) were so fun! So, the kid has her David Tennant moment, but I get my Roka backpack! Win, win! :)

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I love a Premier Inn bed, so much so that I bought a Hypnos mattress on the basis that they were the brand that Premier Inn used (Hypnos also supply the beds for all the Royal households). They no longer use them now and have changed to Silentnight however I've yet to try those beds out.

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When Mardee was here at Easter I showed her the little beach near me and sure enough, there were people swimming.

Oh, yes, I remember that, Golden Girl! Brrrr.....!!! I did love those heavy towel/coat coverup things they wore, though. What were those called? I've forgotten the name.

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It sounds like you had an amazing time! Thanks for the pub recommendations, which I have bookmarked. I have more on my list of things to do/see in London after my trip earlier this year than I did before.

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Sounds like a great trip. Sorry you didn’t go to the Swan Pub, they have great food.

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This sounds like an absolutely lovely trip with so many special moments!!! I really enjoyed this report. You really made good use of your time. Thank for for writing this up.