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London - a Return trip for 9 days

Just returned from nine days in London in October with a good friend. We share interests in history, books, theatre, and all things Churchill, and she is a good sport about following me around in art museums and to chamber music concerts. We’ve both made multiple trips to London before, but I go there more often, so this was her trip. She has some mobility challenges, so tried to keep our pace a little more relaxed…and remember my husband’s parting words: “You can walk people into the ground. Don’t!”

Delta has a direct flight from Atlanta to LHR leaving near midnight which ups the chances of a little sleep. It arrives in London at 1:15 PM, and it’s easy to catch the Piccadilly tube inside Heathrow. I have a favorite Sawday’s B&B in Hammersmith, about a 40 minute direct tube ride from the airport, much faster than a car service if there’s any traffic. Getting in place still takes most of the day, so we booked dinner reservations at the historic Dove pub on the Thames in Hammersmith, and made an early night of it.

[If you’re headed to Kew Gardens, The Dove is in the general area. It’s tiny, and the food is excellent, but you probably need reservations, and a taxi, to find it. http://www.dovehammersmith.co.uk]

Day 2

In line at the National Gallery at 10 AM when it opened with our tickets for the new Van Gogh exhibition. It’s exceptional! Many of the paintings were done during the manic period when he admitted himself to the hospital/asylum outside St-Remy. They were gathered from museums and private owners, and many are paintings I had never seen in exhibits or books. He was painting fast and furiously, and the work is so fresh and colorful. The exhibit is named Poets and Lovers, which I don’t understand, but even if you don’t know a lot about art history, I think you will enjoy this one. Hangs into January, 2025.

Taxi to Borough Market for lunch at Fish and some browsing. Since we’re already on the South Bank, it seemed a good idea to catch another taxi to the Imperial War Museum. We focused on the newly redone WW2 section, and the book shop. We had both spent hours here on previous trips, but today we’re starting to flag, so it was a short visit. Home by bus & tube.

Evening tickets to hear the glorious a cappella group Tenebrae at St-Martin-in-the-Fields. Late dinner at Ave Mario in Covent Garden. I booked the reservation on my phone as we were leaving the concert, and mixed up 2030 and 2230, causing the young Italian woman at the front desk who couldn’t find my reservation to smile, “You’re American, right? You actually reserved for 10:30, but I’ll try to get you in by 9.” She did, and it was still packed and rocking when we left at 11PM. This is a noisy, fun restaurant, focusing on Neapolitan cuisine. All the young servers are Italian. Tried the pizza this time, and it was authentic, pillowy crust as made in Naples.

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Day 3

Churchill day! Chartwell is Winston Churchill’s private family home in Kent, south of London. From Victoria station it’s about a 40 minute train ride to Oxted, where there will be waiting taxis to drive you the 10-15 minutes to this historic property surrounded by gardens and woodlands. This is not a palace; it’s their family home, filled with their books and possessions, and there are knowledgable docents in every room to share the stories. It’s wonderful. There is a gift shop and a tea room, and when I return, I think I’ll make time to walk around in the town of Oxted before catching a train back to London. If you are a Churchill fan, you should visit! https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/kent/chartwell

Friday night is late night at the National Portrait Gallery (til 9PM) and we joined a LondonWalks small group led by an enthusiastic art historian who guided us through selected works in this newly renovated and reopened museum. An excellent tour. Will come back another day to see more. Dinner at Wagamama in Covent Garden and a quick grocery stop at Tesco Express up the street.

Day 4

Downton Abbey day! I think Highclere Castle’s main tourist season is spring and summer, but in October they offered a few guided tours which included the Egyptian exhibit and tea. This was a more expensive tour than the one I went on in May a few years ago, but we had a guide who took us to each room and offered stories and explanations, different from the do-it-yourself tours where you visit rooms which have a docent to answer questions.

It’s easy enough to get there on your own. Book a return ticket on a train from Paddington to Newbury. At the Newbury station there will be waiting taxis. Your taxi will give you a number to call when you’re ready to go back to the station. Google “Paddington to Newbury train” to see your different train options. You really don’t need a tour bus to get you there! https://www.highclerecastle.co.uk

Back in Hammersmith, we went to dinner at one of our host’s recommendations in the neighborhood, the Queen’s Head Pub, which became one of our favorite restaurants in London. https://www.queensheadhammersmith.co.uk

Day 5

A slow start Sunday morning with a decadent Sunday Roast Lunch at the Hawksmoor Knightsbridge and a stop at nearby Divertimenti on Brompton Road, my favorite kitchen shop in London.

Evening performance of Comedy of Errors at the Globe, followed by a scenic nighttime walk along the Thames to the London Bridge tube station. And home.

Day 6

Windsor day. We took Bus 702 from Hammersmith, and about 65 minutes later we were dropped on the main street of Windsor, half a block from the road that leads up to the castle entrance. The 702 also picks up at Buckingham Palace Road, Royal Albert Hall, Hyde Park Corner, and Kensington High Street. Very easy; you don’t need a tour for this!

The highlights of Windsor for me are the grounds, the gardens, the Long Mile, and St. George’s Chapel (open Thursday to Monday.) The palace is opulent, if that’s your interest, but once was enough on a previous trip for me. If it’s a good weather, crossing the river into Eton is a great add-on.

Back to the Queen’s Head that evening, for the best fish and chips I’ve had in London, ever.

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Day 7

To the Museum of Natural History for the Wildlife Photographer of the Year exhibit. Lunch in the beautiful William Morris decorated room at the V&A. And back to Divertimenti to meet Prue Leith and get my autographed copy of her new cookbook.

Les Mis tonight at the Sondheim, from front row seats in the Grand Circle (first balcony.) Fitting in dinner reservations on theatre nights is always problematic. Neither 5 PM nor 10:30 PM are desirable. We seem to be making a lot of Pret stops at the end of our trip. Tonight was worse; we went to McDonald’s on the way to Les Mis!

Day 8

I’m a big fan of LondonWalks and have done many of their 2-3 hour walks over the years. Today we went on their all-day trip to Oxford and the Cotswolds. The very reasonable price included all the transportation (trains and a private coach) and an enthusiastic guide. Our group of about 30 met at Marylebone Railway station at 9 AM, loaded onto our big bus when we reached the Cotswolds, and made our first stop in Witney, where we walked a country lane ending at the picturesque ruins of the Old Minster Lovell. Around lunchtime we drove to the market town of Burford with its lovely old Cotswold stone church. The afternoon was for a walking tour of Oxford, focusing on Trinity College, and we were back to London by train, offloading at Paddington about 6 PM.

Making a full last day, we were at St-Martin-in-the-Fields by 7:30PM for the English Concert: Bach for Heart and Soul, performed by a first-rate chamber group and vocalists, including an extraordinary young countertenor.

Day 9

I’m notorious for making the last day of a trip a Big Hurrah kind of day, but it was easier to do this time knowing our flight home from LHR leaves at 3:55 PM. (Nothing worse than ending a vacation with a 5:30 wake-up followed by frantic packing and a mad dash.)

It was easy to catch the tube at Hammersmith right before noon, and get off inside Terminal 2, where our Delta flight would be leaving. Plenty of time for shopping, one more Pret, and a visit to the Boots pharmacist for something to unstop my ears.

Exit row seats in the Main cabin were actually better than the bulkhead Comfort seats we flew over in. The only downer was the broken entertainment system for the entire plane for the entire flight! (I would much rather have watched four movies than collected the 5K consolation FF miles Delta immediately deposited in my account.) If ATL is your home airport, on international flights you know to wish for an F gate, NOT an E gate, otherwise known as the long slog home! Of course, we drew an E, and walked an extra mile. But it was a fun trip, and we saw some new sights and fit in as much as we knew we would enjoy.

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Parting thoughts:

London is truly becoming a cashless city. I was here in June and used cash in taxis at times, but this trip, the taxi drivers always pointed me to the tap in machine without asking “Cash or card?” I brought about 50£ but could have managed fine with none. Linking my Visa with no conversion fee to my Apple Watch was so much easier that pulling out a card, even an Oyster.

My favorite apps are Rome2Rio for planning, the Tube Map and Bus London for reassurance, SplitWise for keeping up with shared expenses, and GoogleMaps for walking directions. If I have train tickets, I use that train line’s app. I have T-Mobile with no roaming fees, so I can use apps as much as I want.

I’m always a little puzzled by American travelers’ concern for needing slash-proof purses, phone leashes, and hidden pouches, especially in a city like London. I’m in my seventh decade, started traveling at nineteen and lived in Europe five years somewhere in between the two, and I’ve always done perfectly fine with a zipped cross-body purse, a reasonable awareness of my surroundings, and the presence of mind to know where my phone and other belongings are. Just look at all the thousands of European women walking around every day who are not keeping their cards hidden in their underwear! And be reassured that you’re in a country where it’s not legal to be carrying a gun! Relax, and enjoy!

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Good to know about the Cash Lessness. Do any of the Street Marketeers prefer Cash anymore? Flea markets here in Seattle still accept cash, phone transfers to PayPal, and some Cards.

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Wonderful trip report Ruth! Sounds like you were able to do many interesting things not done on initial London trips. I took note of a couple of pubs in Hammersmith. We may stay out that way next time. I also have yet to get to the Imperial War Museum or the National Gallery. Just more reasons to return! Glad you had fun!

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Kathleen,
We didn't go to any street markets this trip, but I would think they would be the LAST Londoners to turn down cash!

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7980 posts

It sounds like you had a wonderful trip. Ruth! Thanks for writing - I enjoyed reading about your travels!

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14725 posts

You can walk people into the ground. Don’t!

Oh gosh, this made me laugh out loud! I've been accused of that too!

I'm so glad you guys had a fun trip! You did lots of really interesting things that repeat visitors will enjoy. I love that William Morris wallpaper in the V&A cafe. The photo exhibition sounds like it was pretty awesome as well.

Thanks so much for taking the time to post!

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2784 posts

I enjoyed your report but couldn’t help wonder how much more you do when “ you walk people into the ground”. Seemed pretty busy to me. Maybe no taxis?

I have been to England twice this year and didn’t have any cash.

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995 posts

Beth, I think it's mostly my husband who thinks I walk HIM into the ground! Most of my friends seem happy enough to keep moving. And, yes, I do catch taxis for a lot of shorter hops. What I didn't try to do this trip were big outdoor markets like Portobello where there's a lot of walking to get there, then lots more standing. This trip was plenty busy for me!

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3871 posts

Great trip report with tons of detail and useful information!
Many thanks for posting it.
I have really enjoyed reading it!
"I have a favorite Sawday’s B&B in Hammersmith..."
I find the Sawday's books and website useful...lots of interesting hotels, B&B's and pubs listed in their pages!

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152 posts

Thank you so much for the details and ideas! I love late nights at museums in London too!

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627 posts

Another interesting fun trip report. Can you just go on a trip every month and then tell us about it, pretty please?! Always happy when I see your reports.