Just returned from a 10 night trip to the Loire Valley, Brittany and Normandy. Wanted to share a few thoughts on the trip and our experiences. My husband and I are mid 40's and this is our 3rd time to France. We both speak some French. Because of previous poor trip weather in September, I made it a point to travel in August. (I can't go in July due to work restraints) We were richly rewarded with beautiful weather every day in the mid 70's with last couple of days in the 80's. Pure sunshine and not a drop of rain. Since it was early August we had a lot of other French tourists to keep us company. Really, we ran across very few English/American tourists except for Bayeux/D Day beaches. Our tour guide for D Day said business was down by about one third from last year.
It was interesting to essentially be on vacation with the French. The average French tourist is about as polite or rude (depending on your viewpoint) as Americans. They stop in the middle of the street to figure out their next move, their children throw temper tantrums, and they jockey for position just like us. In a way it is comforting to know we are all the same. As for the tourist professionals (hotel, restaurant, wine tasting, and chateau personnel), all were extremely nice and helpful. We have always been treated well, but it seems that this time, people were even friendlier. Maybe it was the region. Even the toll booth people are sweet young ladies and men where I remember gruff older men in the past.
If there is one thing I would emphasize from lesson learned on this trip, it would be to get up early and get to popular sites and areas early in the day. Sometimes I felt like the bad guy not letting my husband sleep in but it was well worth it to beat the crowds. Very important when you are travelling at peak season like we did.
We arrived early AM at CDG, picked up our car (an automatic Audi A1-small) and were on our way. I didn't like the fact that you could see our luggage through the hatch back, but having that small car to fit through tight spots was absolutely invaluable so many times over. We had 2 large suitcases (don't tell Rick), our 2 small carry on bags (backpack size) and a 12 bottle wine box. It all fit with the back seat pushed down. My husband is very good with such matters. Here is our overview:
Amboise 2 nights
Dinard 2 nights
Bayeux 2 nights
Etretat 2 nights
Giverny 1 night
back at CDG 1 night before flight home
I will hit some highlights and gloss over other details where I don't feel I have much insight to offer.
On our way to Amboise, we stopped and toured Cheverny. It was busy since it was afternoon, but not overly so. We enjoyed it including the hounds. We tried some violet flavored ice cream sold at a little stand near the hounds which was very interesting, in a good way. The next day, we toured Chenonceau first thing, including the lovely gardens and farm (cute donkeys). As we were leaving the large masses of people entering made us glad we had come early. That afternoon we went wine tasting around Vouvray. Marc de Bredif, Cave des Producteurs, and Chateau Gaudrelle. All places were nice and good English spoken at all of them. We especially liked the experience at Gaudrelle, the young lady was very sweet and it was a very personal experience. We bought some bottles at all places. Wine box almost full-but this was our only wine region.
*** to be continued
Posted by
OP
Farmington Hills, MI
21 posts
On our way out of Amboise the next day, I made a last minute to decision to visit Villandry because of the gardens. I had seen a couple of gardens in England last year and initially didn't have Villandry on my list in order not to overwhelm my husband with chateau. Honestly, it turned out to be my favorite one. On the previous 2 chateau, the furniture was more Renaissance period. At Villandry, it was more modern 17th/18th century (not sure) which I like so much better. Plus from the inside of the house you get the best views of the gardens. Don't skip it! The gardens themselves-absolutely spectacular. So glad I went.
As a downside, this happy detour put us into Dinan a bit later than hoped for. I was not prepared for how busy and crazy Dinan would be. The plan was to park and just walk around for a couple of hours as a stop on our way to Dinard. At first we could not even find a parking space. I was about to give up when my husband spotted one. All I had to do was go down a street the wrong way for about 4 parking spaces. No biggie. Love that small car. I am afraid that I found Dinan to be very touristy tacky. I am afraid that the crowds I encountered affected my experience. Again, this is the height of the French vacation period. If we had gotten there early AM, then maybe I would have enjoyed it more. My husband it not as easily bothered by these sorts of details. On the plus side, the French have very good taste in dogs and there were lots of cute ones to see.
On to Dinard which is only mentioned by RS for a couple of paragraphs. Supposedly favored by English tourists but again didn't find many. I wanted to stay in Dinard because my husband loves the beach. This is a slightly upscale beach resort and I really liked it. After the closed in feeling of Dinan, Dinard felt open, airy and lovely. It was very busy, but did not feel congested. There is a very nice sandy beach and lots of families with young kids, but really all ages. The shops in town were not the same cookie cutter ones we found in Dinan, St Malo, MSM.
The next day we took the first ferry over to St Malo. Another reason I picked DInard was this ferry as we would not have to navigate to St Malo and find parking. Since we were early we found ourselves almost alone along the ramparts. That was the best part. The interior walls by the time we made our way in were fairly congested. Had some crepes for lunch and caught the ferry back. Husband went to the beach to get a sunburn while I washed out some laundry and took a nap that afternoon.
On our way out of Dinard, plan was to make a stop at Mont St Michel. I had no intention of climbing all the way to the top because I was concerned it would be too difficult for us. However, we again walked along the ramparts and then just started walking our way into the commercial area. Before, we knew it, the church was in close sight and we decided to go all the way. I am not that much into churches and honestly it didn't do that much for me. But since we were there might as well check it out. The truly amazing thing of course is how they were able to build it at that elevation. Had lunch on the Mont. Definitely get the fluffy omelette. This is different than the other ones you will get in France. I didn't realize that. Really good. Go early to lunch as places will get packed.
On to Bayeux and time for laundry at the laundromat. For a big load of laundry in the large machine, use 2 boxes of detergent, not one. Saw those instructions after the fact. Oh well, I think we were clean enough.
***to be continued
Posted by
OP
Farmington Hills, MI
21 posts
The next day we took a full day Overlord tour of the American D Day beaches. We are moderately interested in the subject, but not history or military experts. I think it was about the right level of detail for us. I would recommend the company.
The next day we arrived about 5 minutes before opening at the Bayeux tapestry. Everyone else there was with a group and went to the group entrance where they were slightly delayed. We went to the left entrance and literally were the first people in. It worked out very well.
On our way out of town that morning, I decided to make another unscheduled stop. I was taken by the story of the artificial harbor created by the British at Arromanches les Bains. Once I found out that parts of the original harbor remained, I just had to check it out. It was definitely a worthwhile experience, the movie in the museum there explains it well. It was Sunday and apparently this little town is a hang out for the local French. We had some lunch and went on our way to Etretat. No issues until about 3 miles outside of Etretat and it was bogged down by traffic. Again it was Sunday and the day before August 15th, the Day of Assumption, a French holiday. Lots of camper vans. We made it to our hotel, Dormy House and were very grateful for private reserved parking. Our room had an amazing view of the cliffs. I could literally lie in bed and see the cliff. The beach was full of vacationers. The beach here is large pebbles and rocks, but there is a nice promenade.
The next day emerges sunny and beautiful. We skip breakfast and drive to Honfleur first thing. Parking is easy at this hour and we make our way to the Vieux Bassin for a lovely breakfast. The only place in France where we saw waffles for breakfast for my pancake/waffle loving husband. Of course they are not into maple syrup but honey will do. I had a sugar crepe. We enjoyed walking around Honfleur and trying to catch the elusive special light. It was lovely, but maybe the light is best early morning and close before sunset I believe I read. There are some unique stores in town and we had lunch before we left.
The next day, we enjoy a leisurely breakfast at the hotel. We leave for Giverny and take it easy once we have reached out B&B.
The next morning we arrive at Monet's garden right around opening time but this is apparently not enough. There are about 20 people ahead of us in line and it takes a very long time to buy tickets. We should have worked to buy tickets the day before and I believe there is a separate entrance for group and ticket holders. The gardens are quite lovely, and since it is August the water lillies are beginning to bloom with pink flowers. I believe this is a place where you just cannot avoid the crowds. Maybe late afternoon, but we didn't try it.
Our journey is almost over. We just have to make it to our CDG hotel and get up early for our flight the next morning.
*** final thoughts to come
Posted by
OP
Farmington Hills, MI
21 posts
So to sum up, if I went back to northern France, I would probably do it during the second half of August as I understand that the French vacationers start dropping off at this point. Still, it was very interesting to be on vacation like a local.
a few final points:
-buy a garmin type device. I have seen some people say they are going to use an app on their phone for navigation. If that relies on a cell tower, they will be out of luck in a lot of places. I bought an international phone plan from Verizon and was basically never able to connect except for when I used the hotel wi fi.
-it's ok to take a break from French food. We enjoy fine dining at home and I made reservations at several nice restaurants. Most worked out fine, but unfortunately, we're not big fish, duck, rabbit or lamb fans. Shellfish is good. This made things very limiting in many of these restaurants. We did not see shrimp offered very much and the one place in Honfleur where I saw lobster on the menu it was very expensive. Towards the end, we had dinner in Giverny at a place where we could get a crepe for dinner and an egg/salald/cheese plate. We also planned an Italian restaurant in Etretat which was a welcome change. Adjust as you go.
-If a place/attraction catches your attention, try to have some flexibility built into your itinerary so that you can enjoy it
-Don't leave chocolate in a hot car. : )
Posted by
Denver, CO
796 posts
Great trip report - thanks for taking the time to share! I was in the Loire Valley last April, so it was fun to read about your trip there.
Posted by
Granite Bay
28 posts
Would you mind sharing where you stayed in Amboise if you recommend it? And any restaurants in that area that you enjoyed? Thanks.
Posted by
Franklin, TN, USA
920 posts
judys......we visited Amboise and the castles in May and stayed at the Manior Les Minimes in Amboise......it was WONDERFUL. I was just reading this report as we visited The Loire Valley in May and were taken with its beauty. We especially loved Amboise, the corner patisserie there and they had some great restaurants....I need to do my research to get the names but will get back to you!
Posted by
Franklin, TN, USA
920 posts
judys......the 2 restaurants we loved were La Breche and L' Alliance. We felt they were the best in Amboise!
Posted by
Granite Bay
28 posts
Thank you, Jane!
Posted by
OP
Farmington Hills, MI
21 posts
Judy, we also stayed at Manior les Minimes, a splurge but we loved it. A beautiful view of the castle and the river.
We loved L'Alliance-friendly low key place with good food. We also ate at Chateau de Pray, and we were disappointed. The food was just too fancy for us and had some strange combinations that made it difficult for us to select something we could enjoy.
Posted by
Granite Bay
28 posts
Thanks, Cynthia, glad you had such a nice trip.
Posted by
Midwest
541 posts
Fun read. We also were in Normandy in Aug. Our family including teens loved it and it was our favorite area of our 18 day multi country trip.
Thanks for posting
Posted by
Myrtle Beach, USA
12313 posts
I was worried about having my phone navigate, especially out in western Brittany. I did some testing on my phone using Co-Pilot and I'm 99 percent (still can't be 100 percent) that it uses prestored maps and GPS location without any cell tower requirement. I used no phone or data but never got far enough from any cell tower to tell for sure. I guess I'll find out when I get there mid September. If worse comes to worse, it has a show map option.
I've traveled many times in Germany during September and loved it (lots of rain up by the Danish border though). I'll have a good rainshell if it rains in Brittany/Normandie but I'd really like decent weather elsewhere (Loire and Paris). Still, it's better to travel in the rain than not travel at all.