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Loire and South of France: May 4, 2014

I was on the first tour May 4, 2014. There was a good balance of guided time with the group and free independent time. The guide always gave you enough information to be on your own. She never left the group until she knew everyone’s plans and that the people knew how to use the trains/buses to get back and forth to the hotel.

I arrived in Chartres Sunday afternoon as many here suggests. The people on my tour who arrived on Saturday said they could have spent the time elsewhere. Sunday evening after the group dinner, it’s worth to walk around and see the other light shows in addition to the Cathedral light show.

On Monday after our time with Malcolm Miller, we had an optional group picnic followed by a short guided walk. It was pleasant and informative. There was still time in the afternoon to explore, rest, enjoy a glass of wine, and revisit the Cathedral. In the evening there was plenty of time for a leisure dinner and the enjoyment of the views of the Cathedral.

I passed on the Leonardo da Vinci home and had a bite to eat with a tour mate. After sampling chocolates we walked them off along the river bank way. Seeing the Chateaus from both afar and close up were all wows. It’s worth the view if you can walk to the rear grounds of Villandry and take in the vantage of the garden patterns from there. Amazing what a man will do for a ladies’ attention! The family run hotel in Chinon was fun and a pleasant surprise.

In Mortemar we had our picnic stop with all our goodies from local markets. Take a moment to pop into the village church. The names of the WWI and WWII who gave service are on the walls of the interior columns. I have a a famiy name I currently researching. Later the time given to Oradour-sur-Glane is important and poignant.

After the Cave tour it was down pouring so we explored the same village I think. In Cenac we had time to explore and had a picnic lunch. When the weather broke the guide arranged the canoe trip and she went with those people. The rest of us went on the barge ride. We were the first Rick Steves group to ever do this barge tour. Afterwards the bus driver took us up to a hill town for a scenic overlook of the Dordogne… the name is in my notes but not in my brain at the moment. Then we met the canoe group at the landing.

The Sarlat free day was a welcome break to be at leisure for the market, sightseeing, shops, and enjoy some more wine! Our guide arranged an optional activity in late afternoon which was a boules game in the park with a local apertif. It was a great evening to have an informal dinner with new friends or for couples to go off for a romantic dinner on their own. Sarlat also is the best place for laundry. Their is a drop off laudrymat and then they deliver it to the hotel. SInce I had been in Paris for 3 days prior to the tour, it was more than refreshing to have my clothes cleaned outside of the sink!

Continued...

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Carcassonne is sleepy on the outside and compressed within. You easily can linger late into the day and wait for the day crowds to disperse. The next day I got up very early to take in the views as the day was clearer and the sun was peeking out.

My favorite day was Day 9. We visited the eco-family run winery and I made conversation with the owners. Their delicious family made lunch was eaten outside on the terrace with additional wine, a very lovely time. I’m serving their wines for our Christmas dinner this year. Next was the awe and wow of the Pont du Gard. How do you top centuries of exploring this engineering achievement? With an ice cream cone from the souvenoir stand. Be prepared to walk!

Arles was a wonder and I’d love another day there as there’s much to see and explore. I had put my feet up late in the day and fell asleep. I missed making plans with others so I walked back to the square where the Van Gogh statue is located. There are several family run cafes there and I chose the one where all the French people went. For 18 euros I had onion soup, chicken, salad, bread, and a pitchet of local vin. It’s the cafe with the red and white checked table clothes. They are also in the square but the rains prompted most people to go inside as I had done.

You end in Nice with a great local guided walk. I spent my free time wandering along the nooks and crannies, down on the beach having some fish at the restaurant across the street from our hotel, walking the Promenade, and having dinner with tour mates.

This was a relaxing filled tour where you learn about French history, French wine making and the value of a bottle that is labeled AOP. You try local specialties like foie gras and cassoulet, and you sit back and enjoy the beautiful scenery throughout the countryside even if it does rain.

I’d suggest spending a few nights in Paris pre-tour. On Sunday take the direct 11am train from Gare Montparnese to Chartres. I had my water bottle and a snack bar and used the hour to review photos on my camera, and read parts of the RS book I tore out. The next direct train without stops was at 1pm.

There was plenty of time to unpack, walk around, and admire the Cathedral and town before meeting the group. There are many small cafes near the Cathedral. I ate at ‘Le Petit Serpentine’ (quiche, greens, and a glass of wine for 13 euros). The Monoprix was open on both Sunday and Monday, and the department store was open on Monday, too, if you forgot to pack clothes!

Sarlat restaurants I enjoyed: “La Rapiere” (salmon, asparagus, greens, potato, wine) 26 euro;
“Chez Antone” (Pasta, salmon, large salad, wine)17.50 euros

Our group was very active and took part in all the optional activities planned by the tour guide There were other activities I didn’t mention else they’d be no surprises for you. Everyone in our group was flexible and kept an open mind about the day. This made for a smooth and wonderful travel together. This has been one of favorite European tours and one of my top Rick Steves tours. Our guide was a key element to this factor along with the beautiful country of France.

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Great review! My husband and I have booked this tour starting September 20. Can't wait! We have been to many of the locations already, which means we'll have more time to explore wonderful sites we missed on our other visits.