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Lithuania June 25-30, '25

This was our 5th country visited on a 2.5 month trip. Unlike the previous countries visited, we have a friend in Lithuania that helped shape our itinerary as well as act as our tour guide in Vilnius. Based on her feedback and with only limited time, we were only able to visit Kaunas and Vilnius. If we had more time we would have visited a few of her other recommendations - seaside resort area, spa town, etc.

We travelled by train and bus, as well as being shuttled around by our friend's father a few times. For the limited itinerary we had, no rental car was needed as public transportation seems to serve well at least the cities we visited.

Overall, we enjoyed the historic towns and being immersed in yet another country with sad but interesting nazi/communist history. The countryside adjacent to the city was also very nice in Vilnius.

Based on our trip (and copying Steve’s rating system with ^ for ratings) this is how we summarize what to see/do:

^^^ Kaunas (2 days) Medium sized city with a walkable quaint historic zone with several sights to see.

^^^ Vilnius (2-3 days) Large historic town, decent nightlight, good dining, and lots of history.

^^ Trakai (3/4 day w/travel from Vilnius) Touristic area with lake and castle on island, an easy day trip from Vilnius.

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It would be fun to have a friend there! I didn’t make it to Kaunas (unless you count a wrong turn and detour) but Vilnius felt delightful and relaxed. The countryside I passed is very pretty - not dramatic (made for relaxed driving).

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Kaunas

We started our Lithuania visit in Kaunas since that was an easy flight from Bratislava. Our apartment was inexpensive and very nicely located at the juncture of the old town and the pedestrian only boulevard (but lousy balcony view of the back alley parking lot). We found some good traditional dining (one recommended by a guide) and like other central European countries found food portions to be oversized.

Our obligatory walking tour (several to choose from) shed light on the history of the country and city, took us to some interesting street art, communist buildings, and into the historic area. The pedestrian area of the town had a relaxed vibe and was easy to cover on foot making it a (^^^) experience.

Sites we visited by bus or longer walk;

^^ KGB Atomic Bunker Museum. This was a guided tour by reservation only of a communist era bunker (essentially looked like a basement) filled with communist era memorabilia (seems like a good word for bad stuff). This would not be for everyone as it is a bit disorganized, but it was a great glimpse into their past with a somewhat dry guide. We went at 6 PM since the guide works a regular day job (sent a message the day before requesting a tour). Price is fixed so whatever number of people sign up the price is split (for the most part). The entrance is a very non-descript spot in a plain looking building.

^^ Diplomates for Life Museum (aka the Sugihara House). This small museum presents the history of Japanese diplomat Sugihara who issued "Visas for Life" for Jews and other WWII refugees to get out of Nazi-occupied Europe. Since my wife is Japanese, this was a must-see stop for us and (^^^) for her. I knew nothing of this story until a few years ago on one of our many travels through Japan we stopped in the port city of Tsuruga - which is where the Lithuanian refugees arrived after traveling through the Soviet Union.

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Vilnius

Bus or train connections are available between Kaunas and Vilnius.. We opted for the LTG Link train since the price was comparable to a bus, and first class reasonable with comfy seats. Our Vilnius apartment near the train station was quite nice in an old building which was undergoing renovation (but renovation work was only evident in the hallways). Our friend was a little concerned about our location near the train station, but we never felt uneasy in the area.

Vilnius is much larger than Kaunas with a sprawling historic area. We started sightseeing on arrival with our friend acting as tour guide. Over the next 2-½ days she brought us to several churches (each a different religion and/or language), several historic structures, hill top views, and so on. Thoroughly covering the (^^^) old town can easily take about a day and a half. While my wife and our friend shopped one morning, I went to the ^^ Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights in a former KGB headquarters and prison. More fascinating/depressing history of occupied Lithuania.

In the evenings the town is bustling with nightlife. We spent some time at Piana Vyshnia, a Ukrainian Cherry Liquor (only) bar with a cool looking vibrant red interior (can’t miss if strolling past - also in Riga). We also went to the nightclub where our friend met her American husband. We somehow managed to “party” until about 2 am when we called it a night while our friend stayed out with her girlfriend until 4(!).

Day 2 we did a day trip to Trakai which is a touristic area for locals and others with casual lakeside dining, an impressive (^^) castle on an island, and some (^) countryside mansions. Getting to Trakai is normally by bus but our friend’s dad frequents the lake almost daily in the summer to swim and picnic, so he drove us. After a lakeside lunch of the local delicacy Kibina and a castle visit he brought us to his picnic spot along the lake - just a narrow patch of grass between the road guardrail and the water - which was lined with other families picnic blankets and chairs. It reminded me a bit of my youth swimming in lakes in Minnesota…except we never had a large castle on an island in the distance : ) We also took a drive to one of many large homes which were originally owned by Polish aristocracy (if I understood correctly) but now basically museums. Note - there is a sister site to the Island Castle which was a small upgrade fee as a combination ticket, but it was not worth entering (can’t recall the name unfortunately). After an afternoon of swimming and trying Lithuania picnic foods (always including beet soup), we returned to Vilnius for more sightseeing and dining.

We used the LUXExpress bus to travel to Riga. It is a 4h15m ride on a well appointed bus - although as usual on buses/trains the WiFi did not seem to work.

Our trip continued with a few nights in Riga, a week in Finland, a Norway big ship Cruise out of Southampton, and a few days in Bavaria. No trip reports planned for those destinations.

PS: PM me if you would like my Instagram username to see pics.