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Lisbon... The end of our amazing trip...

Lisbon...

Our last 5 nights of our trip were spent in Lisbon.
We took the train from the São Bento station to Campanhã station where we boarded the AP train to Lisbon.
TIP: I learned that all trains departing from São Bento travel to Campanhã station.

When I’d booked our train tickets, 60 days in advance, the first class tickets were only €2 more that those in second class.
Our seats were comfortable with plenty of leg room.
When the conductor came by, I pulled out our tickets but he asked for our IDs. So I showed him our passports and he compared the information in his handheld device and then said, “obrigado!”

My friend Chani, who was also traveling in Portugal, boarded the train in Coimbra. We’d planned to share a taxi ride to the hotel since we happened to be staying at the same place.
When we arrived to Lisboa- Santa Apolónia station, there were no taxis around so we had to wait for quite some time before the taxis arrived one by one. Interestingly enough, we passed this station three times later on, and there were plenty of taxis lined up outside the station.

We stayed at My Story Charming Augusta Hotel near Praça do Comércio [where the TI office is located] Our room was comfortable, with great A/C, and the bathroom had a nice rain shower.
Our room faced Rua Augusta, a pedestrian only street lined with shops, restaurants and pastry shops. We missed our Porto apartment with the nice balcony…

Since we were tired, we decided to eat dinner at our hotel’s 'Bistro Augusta'. The food was okay but nothing special and the service was very slow. After dinner we walked up to Gelateria Santini [Thanks Helena for this recommendation!]

Day 2- After a delicious breakfast, we walked to Cais do Sodré station and took the train to Cascais (trains run every 20 minutes) It’s a good thing we had purchased our Viva Viagem cards when we’d arrived to Lisbon because the lines to buy them at this station were extremely long!

When we arrived to Cascais, my daughter’s card was not working.
Fortunately there was a helpful railway worker who let her get through and then walked over to the automated machine to show us how to check the balance in our cards. Her card had been deactivated since she’d kept it next to her cell phone! Remember not to do this...

We then took the bus (#427) to Casa da Guia, a great place with amazing views of the coast where we met Kathryn (a great contributor to the Portugal Forum) and her daughter for a delicious lunch.
Kathryn suggested we walk along the coastal path to ‘Boca do Inferno’- an amazing sight.
Afterwards we took the bus back to the station then strolled around this charming town for a couple of hours.

Later that evening after resting in our A/C room, we walked up to Chiado then up to Miradourodo de São Pedro-great views of the city!
We ate a delicious dinner at Restaurante Lost In Esplanada. Since we didn’t have reservations we were able to sit on the terrace overlooking the city, not bad!

Day 3-
After another hearty breakfast we walked to Praça do Comércio and joined a free walking tour of the Alfama and the Mouraria neighborhoods. Alexandra, our tour guide, was very informative and enthusiastic about her beloved city. The tour lasted about 2.5 hours and it was a great introduction to Lisbon.

After our late lunch we took the train to Belém and visited the Jerónimos Monastery. We arrived at around 4:20pm and there were no lines! One cannot buy tickets at the monastery, so go directly to the Archeological Museum where you’ll find several automated machines (pay with credit card or cash)

The monastery is amazingly beautiful and we were thankful that it was not crowded.
After visiting the monastery we walked across to visit the Discoveries Monument and then to the Tower of Belém- both amazing.

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We almost skipped going to the Pastéis de Belém for their famous Pastéis de Nata but we decided we had to try them to compare with the ones we’d already tasted previously in Porto and during our walking tour in Lisbon.

There was a long queue at the entrance so we walked right in and found a table in the last room. Apparently they have 400 seats within seven rooms so one is bound to find a place to sit!
We ordered two pastéis de nata, sprinkled them with a bit cinnamon and our mouths watered as we bit into the crispy flaky crust and the warm sweet creamy filling. Yes, they are absolutely delicious!

We’d plan to take the train back to Lisbon but we noticed a tram that had plenty of seats so we took the tram instead. The tram (#18) took longer than the train but it was fun. Most of the trams we’d seen throughout the city were always packed like a can of sardines!

Day 4,
We walked to Praça da Figueroa with it’s beautiful fountains, looking for some shoe shops and then visited the Baixa Mercado under a huge tent. There were a multitude of merchants selling food, souvenirs and various types of Sangria.

We also a found a great place for a vegan meal but decided to return later on for dinner. We’re not vegan but the food looked fresh and delicious.

That afternoon we decided to go to 'El Corte Inglés', a great department store from Spain, where one can find almost anything you want. There is a large supermarket on the lower level, a bakery and various places to eat. I’d been looking for a pair of comfortable leather sandals but unfortunately they didn’t have my size. The saleswoman suggested going to the London Fly shop where I may find my size. We took the metro two stops South, found the London Fly shop but we arrived 5 minutes after they’d closed.
We decided to walk down Avenida da Libertade, a great street lined with posh shops, to the vegan restaurant we’d seen earlier but when we arrived the door was locked as they had just closed.

During our walk we’d stopped to help a man who had fallen (he reported that someone had pushed him and he appeared to have a fractured leg) There were others there that had taken charge of the situation and once I’d made sure that he was stable and that help was on the way, we left the scene. Within a few minutes we heard the siren of the paramedics.

We checked Google maps and found that we were not far from 'Boa, Bao', a Thai restaurant that had been recommended by Kathryn. This is a very popular place so when we arrived we had a 30 minute wait.

We enjoyed our food but the service was slow probably because it was such a busy place. FYI: They don’t take reservations.

Day 5- Our last day in Lisbon…

We took the Metro (blue line) to Marquês de Pombal and went to the London Fly shoe shop where I found a very comfortable pair of sandals. My first pair of London Fly shoes!

Afterwards, we had a healthy and delicious lunch at Eight- The Health Lounge

Later on we took a taxi to the Museu Nacional do Azulejo (National Tile Museum)- a great museum full of beautiful azulejos.

When we left the museum it was raining, so we took a taxi back to our hotel.

Since we’d had a late lunch, we weren’t hungry for dinner so we treated ourselves to a delicious gelato at Amorino!

The following morning we took a taxi to the airport to fly home ; )

The end...

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5210 posts

Hi Nancy!

Yes, other than getting sick, it was an amazing trip!

We didn't get to all the places I'd planned, but my daughter and I made wonderful memories spending this time together. : )

Posted by
233 posts

Lovely reports, Priscilla!

And, well... sometimes less is more. You didn't visit the surroundings of Porto, but perhaps because of that you were able to feel more the city's soul. That search of chicken soup... memorable! And I envy your time spent at the balcony watching the world going by! You even saw a candle procession!

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5210 posts

Hi Helena!

Yes, you’re right, sometimes less is more...

Thanks for reminding me about the candle procession. On the evening of May 31st, when walking back from Pedro dos Frangos, I heard a choir singing but couldn’t figure out where the melody was coming from. I then noticed the loud speakers on some posts of the streets nearby.
That night after we’d enjoyed our roasted chicken, I went to the balcony and heard a thousand people praying the rosary in unison as they walked along our street. Each worshipper was holding a lighted candle and the procession seemed endless. It was truly a memorable sight.

Thanks to you I now know that this ”Procession of Light” is dedicated to the Virgen Mary.

Posted by
61 posts

Hi Priscilla,
I am enjoying your posts. Thanks for sharing. We are planning to leave for Portugal on July 19th. Heard about the slippery sidewalks with mosaic tiles in Lisbon and Porto and, of course, downhill on slippery slope..... Any recommendation for footwear ? I wear comfortable shoes.

Thank you.
Enjoy while there.

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5210 posts

Hi Sampa,

The sidewalks can be slippery, especially when wet.
I wore my Keen Rose sandals and my Brooks running shoes. Both of these shoes have a good grip on their soles.

I think as long as your shoes have a decent grip they should be fine.

It rained for a while during our walking tour in Lisbon and our guide advised us to walk on the road instead of the sidewalks- being careful of cars, of course.

Wishing you a wonderful trip!

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564 posts

Enjoyed every word - thank you for all your great work on these trip reports.

Posted by
61 posts

Your help is really appreciated. Thank you Priscilla.

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906 posts

Thanks for the informative report, Priscilla. I've made notes about the eateries you recommended for my trip this autumn. :)

Posted by
6046 posts

Thank you Priscilla. I am so psyched I found your trip report.
Bookmarked.

Posted by
744 posts

Excellent report, Priscilla! So glad you had an amazing trip to Portugal with your daughter!

Posted by
5210 posts

Thanks everyone for your kind replies!

Christine (California), I can't wait to read about your recent trip!

Posted by
219 posts

Priscilla, thanks for all your detail. I am looking forward to trying that gelato Helena suggested! Did you find that you used your "zapping" card a lot (or did you have another type of card)?

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5210 posts

Hi Victoria,

Gelateria Santini is delicious! You can also find this gelateria in Cascais and in Porto (we didn't go to the one in Porto though)

We only bought the Viva Viagem "zapping" cards when we first arrived to Lisbon and used it to get to Sintra (on the train) and back to Lisbon.
We also used it to pay for the train to Cascais. You can also use it on buses, some trams, and some funiculars.
We didn't take any trams or buses in Lisbon; we walked almost everywhere.
We only took tram #18 from Belém to Cais do Sodré but I don't recall if we used the card or paid cash.

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3961 posts

Oh Priscilla, thanks for reminding us of the Gelato in lovely Casais! I recall standing in a long line. It was worth it! Nice to have those memories.