My wife and I took the window of opportunity to break out of the pandemic travel blues for a 4 night excursion to Lisbon. I scoured the Travel Forum for all the current and past posts and returning the favor. First, the high level observations:
- 72 hr covid test window for entry can be nerve wracking but you will get through it (we went to CVS).
- We used Verifly with American Airlines - uploaded all our intel and that was it. Passports is all airlines and Portugal entry looked at. Returning the States, you need test the day before. Lots of places in the city to do this but plan accordingly. It was more self created stress but worked out.
- People are traveling, our plane was full. So were the sights and everybody was so happy to be traveling again (despite the pandemic and the war in the Ukraine).
- The Portuguese people are very friendly and welcoming and while Portuguese is a tough language to pick up, most everyone spoke English and those that didn't, we had fun pantomime moments.
- Bring sneakers! No heels...its a hilly town and those sidewalks are gorgeous but flat soles with grip.
- If you love rooftops bars, you have found a nirvana.
- Pasteis de Nata is all that - the breakfast (anytime) pastry is so good you will try every place that sells them. My wife loved Manteigaria (shops around town), I loved Pasteis de Belem. Make it a challenge to find your favorite, your stomach and taste buds will thank you!
Hotel
We stayed at Le Consulat (former Brazilian Consulate). Our room was very big even for US standards and the location is great (Bairro Alto). Tram 28 stops at the front and there is a lovely square as well. We walked everywhere and everything we wanted to see in Lisbon proper seemed no more than 15 minutes.
Dining
The food is spectacular! Seafood, pork, meat, pastry - wow! We had several great meals. Here are some of the places where we ate:
- Minibar (Jose Avillez restaraunt) - 'speakeasy' molecular gastronomy. One of the coolest atmospheres we have ever ate in...so very cool. We had the tasting menu and it was spectacular...it was a splurge but way under what I thought the bill was. We had the table for 2-1/2 hours with dinner and lots of drinks 135 euro.
- O Faia - (Fado and dinner) - another gorgeous setting. Dinner and a show (drinks extra). The food was great (Octupus and lamb for main dish were excellent). The show was so much fun - the guitar players and the singers all were great. Its an intimate setting, the service was outstanding and we left with big smiles on our faces.
- Prado - another tasting menu. The pork belly, angel fish and tuna were all stars. The seafood is so amazingly fresh! Great cured meats appetizer as well.
- A Praca - at the LX Factory (under the bridge). Lots of restaraunts and bars here...very cool. Great ceviche and grilled goat cheese sandwich...and a liter of sangria! We also had lunch at Time Out Lisbon....its such a cool place. We had steak sandwiches and some great desserts. I cannot recall the names of the restaraunts but make it a point to get there.
Sites - we did not get to everything we wanted, here are some highlights...
- go to every Miradouro possible. The views are always great and they all have kiosks serving drinks and snacks.
Castelo de San Jorge - outstanding. buy ticket online and walk right in. Stunning views and the Alfama neighborhood at your feet. You could spend an entire afternoon/day doing these two things alone.
-Núcleo Arqueológico da Rua dos Correeiros - free archeological dig with an archaeological tour guide! Bank was building underground garage and came across three layers of Lisbon life back to the bronze age. It is so well done.
Jeronimos Monastery - stunning. Must see. the Museu Nacional de Arqueologia is attached and well worth the visit.
Monument to the Discoveries - massive in scale. a must.
Pasteis de Belem - always crowded, find out why.