Please sign in to post.

Leipzig this September

Since I got quite a bit of advice here, I'm doing a trip review.

I spent last week in Leipzig, travelling by plane to Berlin and then by train. I stayed one night in Berlin at the Motel One Hauptbahnhof. I wouldn't recommend it unless you're leaving by train in the morning like me, as the area is still quite undeveloped. The tram along Invalidenstrasse is now running, though, making transport to the rest of Berlin better. I did like the hotel itself and would try other branches of the chain. I had a good dinner at a place called Staendige Vertretung, on the bank of the Spree near Friedrichstrasse station - flammekuche with black pudding, apple and onion.

In Leipzig I stayed at the Days Inn, which is in a quiet area just east of the city centre, fifteen minutes walk or two tram stops from the Ring. The hotel is in a slightly modernised ex-DDR tower block, but perfectly comfortable and good value. The receptionists were very helpful - one warning me against travelling to the city my first evening due to a PEGIDA demonstration. It's close to the Grassi Museums, which cover anthropology, musical instruments, and decorative arts. I only visited the last of those, which has a particularly good art nouveau and art deco collection.

I do want to recommend a restaurant in the area which I thought was very good. It's called Zunftkeller, in the basement of the Haus des Handwerks. The food is local and seasonal, which in September translated to lots of game meat and wild mushrooms.

In Leipzig itself I also visited the general art museum, which I enjoyed, and the Runde Ecke Museum, which covers the nature and activities of the East German Stasi, or secret police. The labelling and the documents on display are all in German (and often in very difficult legalistic and political German) but you can hire a very informative English audioguide. It's in the former city headquarters of the Stasi, largely preserved and with a reconstruction of a detention cell from another building.

Thanks to recommendations here I visited Halle and the gardens at Woerlitz. Unfortunately the railway line from Dessau to Woerlitz is currently replaced by buses due to the railcars having broken down. But the gardens are still spectacular. I did a circuit of the inner parts but couldn't wander as far as I wanted due to suffering from backache.

Halle has some interesting older buildings surviving. I visited the Moritzburg art museum but at the time most of the permanent displays were replaced by an exhibition of Anthroposophist art, which didn't interest me a lot. I enjoyed the Bruecke paintings that were on show, however.

I planned to go to Zwickau for the Audi Museum, but discovered online that a large part of it was closed for renovation, so decided to leave it for a later trip.

Travelling back from Leipzig to London, I was very unhappy with the situation at Schoenefeld Airport. They are trying to push too many budget flights through what is still a very small ex-DDR terminal, and the queues for security and for passport checks at the gates were quite appalling.

Posted by
11294 posts

Thanks for your report! Sorry you couldn't see the car museum at Zwickau, but glad you got to see the Runde Ecke (which I found depressing but very interesting).

Posted by
2297 posts

Leipzig is indeed the perfect example of a hidden back door that can be very rewarding if you dare to go! One of my favourite places in Germany.

I was very impressed with the Museum Rund Ecke. I do speak German fluently but my husband doesn't. He went through it with the audio guide and it was just excellent.

The Grassi museum is still on my to-do list. Walked by there a few times but haven't had a chance to go in, yet.

Posted by
12040 posts

I think Leipzig has one of Europe's best zoos, but I realize this isn't why most people travel to the continent.

Also, sitting at a restaurant on Barfüßgäßchen (Barefoot alley?!) provides one of the better people watching venues I've encountered in Germany.

Thanks for the report. I somehow missed the Rund Ecke Museum.

Posted by
4684 posts

I think it does mean "barefoot" - probably refers to some kind of religious order.

Posted by
14977 posts

Leipzig is worthy of one's time if you're into music, where the houses/museums of Bach, Mendelsohn, Liszt, Wagner, etc can be seen. If your interest is Napoleonic history, the Völkerschlachtdenkmal with its adjacent museum commemorates his defeat at the Battle of Leipzig by the Allies, ie, the armies of four nations.

Posted by
12040 posts

the Völkerschlachtdenkmal with its adjacent museum commemorates his defeat at the Battle of Leipzig by the Allies,

Something tells me that the design teams from the Lord of the Rings and Hobbit films are familiar with the monument. It struck me as looking like something the dwarves of Middle Earth would have built.

Posted by
14977 posts

The Völkerschlachtdenkmal built in 1913 was to commemorate the centennial of the liberation of the German area in 1813 by the Allies from the French yoke in the War of Liberation, unless one sides with Napoleon and les français, then you wouldn't call it the War of Liberation, would you? The monument is one of the 5 huge Prussian monuments (or monstrosities) in Germany. In 1945 when US troops got to Leipzig, not the Russians, and the site of the monument, they rained artillery on it. That painting showing the meeting of the three victorious sovereigns (the King of Prussia, Tsar of Russia, and the Emperor of Austria wearing the typical Austrian white) after the battle you can also find in two other museums, the one in Berlin and the Army Museum in Vienna, ie, three different cities/museums to see the same picture depicted.

Posted by
12040 posts

The monument is one of the 5 huge Prussian monuments (or monstrosities) in Germany.

What are the other 4, if you don't mind sharing? Let me guess... the Niederwalddenkmal? Deutsches Eck? Brandenberger Tor? Burg Hohenzollern? Walhalla and the Befreiungshalle are both Bavarian, I think.

Posted by
14977 posts

"...if you don't mind sharing?" ?? Should I or would I ? Of the sites listed, Niederwalddenkmal is correct. That is one of the five. Deutsches Eck...the present one is a much more modest version of the Kaiser Wilhelm Denkmal, since the original suffered war damage. You can see another obvious Kaiser Wilhelm Denkmal on the Hohenzollern bridge in Cologne not far from the cathedral., or am Königsplatz in Stuttgart, or the Kaiser Wilhelm Denkmal at Dortmund-Hohensyburg, went there the first time in 1987, from Dortmund Hbf took almost one hour with the U-Bahn, then the bus , then walking to the actual site itself.

Befreiungshalle located in Kelheim /Bavaria. Note the list of events shown inside from 1813 to 1815 leading to the final victory of the Allies over Napoleon at Waterloo or Belle Alliance in Prussian-German historiography is inaccurate historically, biased (and you blatantly see why), and incomplete....Dresden (1813), Ligny 1815, Montmirail 1814 are left out as are others.

The other three are the Bismarck Denkmal in Hamburg, ie, at Landungsbrücken, and (2) Porta Westfalica in Minden an der Weser, something to behold, and (3) the Kyffhäuser Denkmal. You see that none of the five is located in Bayern.