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Late November/early December trip to Austria and Germany

In the spirit of thanking those on the various RS forums, with special thanks to Emily and wmt1, I’ll attempt to summarize my recent trip.

PURPOSE: 1) I lived in and was married in Germany in the 70‘s and wanted to see how things had changed since then. I’ve been back acouple of times in passing, it was interested this time inreconnecting with old memories and old friends. 2) My niece is living in Vienna and I thought it would be fun to see her while there. 3) Since my trip coincided with the seasonal Christmas markets, I wanted to see what was there. I’d been to the Christkindlesmarkt many times while living in Nürnberg but hadn’t visited markets in other areas.

ITINERARY: I spent a week in Vienna, a day in Hallstatt on the way to Salzburg, three days in Salzburg and four days in Nürnberg. Despite the fact that I know many folks spend less time in Vienna, I felt like I could have stayed longer in order to see everything I wanted.

VIENNA: I stayed at the K&T Boardinghouse in the 6th district just off Mariahilferstraße. It was clean, convenient and I had a large room. Breakfast isn’t included in the price, but there’s Cafe Ritter on the corner and a supermarket nearby. I found it convenient to use the U-Bahn, which was less than a block away, and buses to get to everywhere I wanted to go. I bought a Gesamtnetzplan (entire transport system map) for 3€, which was invaluable in helping me find my way around. I also bought a weekly transit pass, which saved me a lot of money. During my stay I visited the main sites, with the exception of Schönbrunn, and also attended the Staatsoper (La Bohème), Sunday morning mass at the Augustiner Kirche, a Spanish Riding School performance and an afternoon concert at St. Peter‘s. One of my most memorable experiences was listening to the tour (offered only in German and only on weekends) at the Kirche am Steinhof by Otto Wagner. Not only did I learn a lot about Herr Wagner as a person as well as an architect, I also learned the many design features he incorporated to make the church function well in a mental health setting. And the church is simply stunning. The other thing I enjoyed that isnt often mentioned was to book a free walking tour with Global Greeters. I specifically requested a tour of areas in Vienna not often seen by tourists. My greeter was a retired UN social policy director, and we enjoyed a walk short walk around the Naschmarkt to see the Otto Wagner buildings, and then a bus ride to and a walk around the 19th district, which abuts the Vienna Woods. My greeter was informative and personable, and I enjoyed my three hour walk with him very much. Of course, I also visited many of the Vienna Christmas markets during my stay there. The only thing remarkable about that was my difficulty finding a Krampus ornament. Krampus is the one who accompanies St. Nickolas and punishes children who’ve been bad. He’s a scary fellow, resembling a devil with a long tongue, horns, a tail, one foot and one hoof, carrying chains and sticks. I thought it would be fun to send my grandson a Krampus for his annual ornament gift, but the vendors gave me a look or horror when I asked them for one. Apparently it’s just not done. Nevertheless, I was able to find one made in tin and handpainted in the Karlsplatz market, and a handblown one elsewhere. Tina, my hostess at the K&T, Shared a video from DEC. 6 on Mariahelferstraße, when many Krampuses roam the streets and scare passerby.

I also enjoyed spending an evening with a friend from Bratislava, who came to Vienna to spend a Saturday evening with me. We had coffee and Kuchen at Oberlaa and then roamed the Christmas market at Spittelberg, enjoying a Wurst and some Glühwein.

Edited to add: I found senior discounts available nearly everywhere in Austria but you have to ask. Usually only 1-2€ but it adds up.

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Ran out of room before mentioning my cooking class in Vienna. I love to learn how to make local dishes, and my class with Katharina at Bianca is(s)t was a good one. (Bianca is(s)t is a German play on words . Bianca ist means Bianca exists. Bianca isst means Bianca eats. Clever.) Ten of us students learned to make goulash, slaw, spätzle noodles and apple strudel. A lot of fun, an enjoyable dinner and a good way to interact with others during my solo trip. The only negative thing was that it took a couple days for the smell of onions from the goulash to leave my clothes. :-)

HALLSTATT AND SALZBURG: I traveled by ÖBB to Hallstatt via Attnang-Puchheim. The trains were punctual, clean and all had free WiFi. I also found free WiFi to be common in Vienna and Salzburg, even out on the streets. Not so on German trains, restaurants or out on the streets. My Nürnberg host explained that until very recently German businesses providing WiFi access were held liable for smutty or illegal postings by their guests, so few dared to offer WiFi. This is apparently changing since the law was changed.

Hallstatt— Beautiful as widely reported. I stayed at Seewirt Zauner in a charming room with balcony overlooking the town square. Many of the town businesses were closed for winter, but this didn’t stop the many busloads of Chinese tourists from visiting and photographing everything they could see. Mostly I walked around the town and the hills. I didn’t visit the salt mines, as I’d done that in Berchtesgaden in the past and didn’t need a repeat.

Salzburg — I stayed at the Hotel Elefant, in the center of town near the Rathaus. More expensive than I usually spend, but convenient and pleasant. I crossed paths here with a neighbor who was taking the RS Munich-Salzburg—Hallstatt-Vienna tour, and we attended the Mozart dinner concert at the St. Peter Stiftskeller together. Food and music were good, although the music was limited to “Best of Mozart“ selections. I couldn’t help wondering how tiresome it must be for the musicians to perform the same Don Giovanni, Marriage of Figaro, Eine Kleine Nachtmusik and Magic Flute Night after night. I took a cooking class here (Edelweiss Cooking School), which was enjoyable — strudel (again) and almond Christmas cookies, accompanied by a goulash soup lunch. Even though I had also taken a strudel class in Vienna, I enjoyed this, and it gave me a little person to person interaction, which I miss when traveling alone. In addition to the St. Peter’s dinner concert, I also took in an advent dinner concert at the Hohensalzburg fortress, which I enjoyed very much. It was held in a beautiful room at the fortress. The musicians played selections from Josef Haydn, Mozart (of course), Bach, Vivaldi and a lovely selection of Austrian carols and old folk tunes. Also enjoyed seeing the Christmas market and listening to a brass quartet and a children’s choir performing in front of the Dom. There was a special Silent Night exhibit at the city museum in honor of the 200th anniversary of the tune, which I found interesting. Saw three Krampuses, St. Nicklaus and a couple of angels collecting money for charity in a restaurant downtown. Bought a Bayernkarte for my travel to Nürnberg at the ticket counter because I had a couple of questions. Found out that it cost 2€ more at the ticket counter than at machines in the station lobby.

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NÜRNBERG:
I lived in Nürnberg, working in the German school system in 1971. Met my American husband there and was married in Nürnberg. Actually married twice — once (the only legal one) in city hall, and once in the military chapel, which had been an SS Kaserne in WWII. I was particularly interested to see how Nürnberg had changed, since when we lived there nothing at all was said about Nürnberg’s Nazi past. I had taken a gamble and written to my old address, hoping to connect with the daughter of my old landlord, who, I was fairly certain had inherited the house. She responded promptly by email, telling me to cancel my hotel reservation and stay as a guest in their home instead. She introduced me to her husband, and they became my Nürnberg family. I had a ground floor apartment to myself and could join family activities upstairs as I wished. The first evening I was there I accompanied them to a Christmas party with friends in a restaurant. I was glad I’d already had a week and a half to polish up my German skills, as I spoke not one word of English while I was there. They were all very complimentary, saying I spoke accent-free German, but I did have to remind them to slow down a bit and try to avoid speaking their Fränkisch dialect. The next day, a Sunday, we took a drive down memory lane, driving to the former military base and to an apartment where my husband and I lived. The base is now a German federal office for refugee affairs, with high security walls and armed gates, so we weren’t allowed to enter. We did take a few photos, so I’m sure we showed up on their security film. We also visited a medieval Christmas market in neighboring Fürth and enjoyed a show there by a jester. Returning to Nürnberg, we toured the tunnel system under the city, which was created in the Middle Ages for aging beer, but served as a bomb shelter during WWII, as well as a hiding place for Nazi-looted art. We topped off the evening with a visit to the Nürnberg Christkindlesmarkt.

Monday morning, my host returned to work, and I spent the morning at the Dokumentatazions Zentrum. I was there for four hours! It holds a wealth of information about the rise of fascism and Nürnberg’s role in the Nazi party. In the afternoon I toured the Dürer house and dropped by the Christkindlesmarkt for “drei im Weckla,” (three bratwurst in a bun). I also dropped by the storefront of Lebkuchen Schmidt, my favorite source for Nürnberger Lebkuchen, the famous spicy Nürnberg gingerbread cookie, and ordered a large box to be sent to my home. Also stopped by a supermarket to buy some Oblaten, the thin wafers German bakers place under their cookie dough to prevent sticking, and some premixed Lebkuchen spice packets to use at home for baking Lebkuchen.

Tuesday I decided to visit Bamberg, and rode the SBahn to the city. I toured the cathedral, the Residenz, the little Venice area, and the Christmas market and just generally wandered around this charming city. Returned to Nürnberg for one last dinner with my friends, vowing to keep in touch in the future.

The next morning I left at 0430 for my 0600 flight to Charles de Gaulle airport, connecting to Seattle and then home to Portland. I was pleasantly surprised to have no difficulty with crowds exiting Europe in Nürnberg or Paris or with US customs in Seattle. Of course, this was probably related to time of year I traveled. I used my Global Entry for the first time in Seattle and found that also easy to manage.

Loved, loved my trip. Not sure when I’ll return to Nürnberg, since many other places in Europe beckon to me, but it’s nice to know I have a family there. Hoping to host them in Portland in the future.

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Patricia, thank you for the detailed report. I lived in Vienna and Germany several decades ago and it is lovely to read about your stay.

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which had been an SS Kaserne in WWII.

Reading that, I had to smile. I lived in that area as a kid in the 50s. We used to hang around at the main gate to see if US convoys were coming in or out, hoping they would dump caramel sweets, chocolate, or cigarettes on us. The first cigarette I got, I (six years old) secretly smoked with a friend. What an experience. So I owe it to the US military that I completely quit smoking at the age of six. ;)

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Sounds absolutely wonderful. What a great experience catching up with friends in Nuremberg.

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Loved, loved my trip.

I loved, loved your trip report! Thanks for sharing. It's fun to read trip reports about places I have been and to see how others perceived those places. Sounds like you had a wonderful trip! Thanks again for sharing.

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14976 posts

Thanks for a great report.

We could have crossed paths in 1971 but I think not. In the summer of 1971 I was doing my first trip to Europe and Germany, starting in Lübeck-Travemünde and slowly working my way down to Munich, but I did not go to Nürnberg. Not until my second trip in July 1973 would I be visiting Nürnberg, stayed at the DJH hostel.

My compliments on the "akzentfreies Deutsch"