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Last Trip Report - Naples......

Well, may of you won't agree with my assessment...but it's my Trip Report! Ha! Now bear in mind, we were there less than a day...but still these are my impressions. I'd like to preface that we loved Venice, Rome and the Amalfi Coast...all different, all unique. I'm also not a prima donna....I've liked in a 3rd world country without clean water, etc.

Initially we were just doing Naples as I booked our trip Open Jaw. I wanted to see Pompeii and this made sense. About 2 months before our departure, DH decided he didn't want to see Pompeii, he just thought he'd be tiring of all the Ruins Viewing, and wanted to just tour Naples. Since he let me do EVERYTHING, didn't get involved at all in the planning or decision making (as he knows I love that and trust me completely), I felt I would concede this one thing. Oh well, maybe I'd be tired, too, right? Plus I heard it's very very hot.

Last Day: Private Driver picks us up at 8:00 a.m. and we drive the 90 minutes to our Naples Hotel (Hotel Piazza Bellini...the only good thing about Naples). It was a beautiful drive on the Coastline for awhile, loved seeing Sorrento, Mt. Vesuvius...just driving thought all the towns was fun. As we entered Naples, I thought...hmmmmm....doesn't look so nice. However, like all cities, there are industrial parts that are the seedier parts of town.

Naples was gritty, dirty, congested (makes Rome look like rural roads), car fumes were obnoxious. Graffiti Everywhere...I mean even nice building along the street. It just seemed dark. WE checked in and decided right then we were going to Herculaneum. We ventured out to a bank to get some Euros and walked around an hour trying to find one. We didn't like this city at all. Got a private driver to take us for 2 hours and bring us back...70 Euros.

Went to Herculaneum and DH really, really enjoyed it, as did I. I knew then he would have loved Pompeii, so was disappointed we hadn't made arrangements. I suppose we could have, but at that point it was closer to midday and we just thought it would be cheaper and faster to do this. We had a very enjoyable time and got the headphone. What a fascinating place...well worth your time. 2 hours wasn't enough for us...we had to meet the driver. 3 hours would have been better AND plenty. So, schedule 3 hours if you go there, but you can see a lot of it in 2 hours if you have to.

So, we made our way back to the National Archaeology Museum. I don't know...I got really tired fast of seeing all the statutes..maybe I was just tired that last day, but I didn't enjoy it as much as I thought. We saw the artifacts from Pompeii, and I didn't thing there was that much, really. Maybe we just didn't see all the rooms.

We then walked back to our hotel and decided that evening we would go to that famous pizza place close by starting with an "S"...sorry Sorbini's, maybe? Until then we would walk down the main thoroughfare...(the one like in Rome) Via Corsi I think. Well, yuch. Dirty, no good shops...not glamourous at all. Tried to follow our map to make our way to the waterfront and could never find it...got lost. I was getting tired, so we made our way back to the Piazza Bellini for an aperitif. You know, even this popular Piazza just looks sad. We disliked Naples quite a bit...sorry if that offends anyone. Maybe it's the "real" Italy...who cares? I have only so much money and time, and I don't care to be around this type of atmosphere...I can do that at home in my seedy areas.

Went to the Pizza place that was PACKED! So, we are excited to eat original Naples pizza...the birthplace of it! I almost laughed. Any frozen pizza was better than this. The dough almost seems undercooked...like an extra think tortilla. People are rolling their floppy crust pizza like a tortilla and eating it that way. They sauce wasn't anything great. I don't know...I'm not a foodie or a pizza snob at all....

Posted by
524 posts

So, I didn't even eat much of mine and then we headed back to our hotel...which was an oasis to us. WE were leaving for the airport at 5:30 the next morning.

WE are up and the hotel calls us a taxi, and gives us a receipt slip that shows it will cost 15 Euro. The ride took all of 5 minutes, ok, I have no problem with that. So we get out of the taxi and the driver says 30 Euro. DH says what and he repeats 30 Euro. DH shakes his head and shows him the slip that says 15 Euro and the driver say "no...30 Euro". DH is pissed at the point and says. NO....hand his 15 Euro, we grab our bags and leave. That was the only time in Italy we were trying to be ripped off by a taxi driver. Figures.

So, we didn't like Naples. Maybe if we had stayed down by the water only we would have...I don't know. But in any case, Naples is NOT a smaller Rome at all...so be warned. I really, really wish we had figured it out and just took the fast train back to Rome for the night. Or at least been aware of what we were getting into, and planned on spending the day at Pompeii and then get a hotel by the water and just staying there until the next day. Anyway....if you are like me, enjoyed my trip reports...then be aware!

Posted by
7054 posts

Lulu, I'm sorry you didn't take to Naples. You are in good company (folks have a very visceral reaction, similar to Palermo)...for what it's worth though, it sounds like you missed a lot of sights (San Martino and Santa Chiara Monasteries, several grand churches and cathedrals) and some nicer parts of town (Vomero district and Margellina down by the waterfront) where you can get away from the chaos. I think coming from Sorrento is a bit of a culture shock because they're apples and oranges - different size and scale. You definitely need some nerves of steel to take in Naples and you also have to give it some time...there are some cities in the world that are just that way...very hard to warm up to them until you have some time to let the atmosphere sink in, preferably when you're feeling energetic and very patient. Istanbul too is crazy congested, overwhelming, and falling apart in a lot of areas too (not to mention traffic choked) and people are spilling out all over the place (i.e. sensory overload). Neither city is particularly relaxing and you have to be alert and on your toes. I had to drink multiple espressos in Naples all day long to keep my head from exploding, but I still have very fond memories of it in spite of it all - I was very lucky and met up with some locals who took me around and had terrific hospitality (homemade food - delicious!) which colors my view of the place in a positive way. Thanks for your report...your impressions are all valid and accurate (but I wish you had more time in Naples to report on).

Posted by
2790 posts

Lots' of "tired" in there. I think that may have had a huge impact.

That said it's OK if you don't like a place.

(But we skipped the original pizza place and went to the other one Rick recommends and loved it!)

I have done Naples twice just for a day. First time was during the garbage strike a few years ago. I hated it. Second time I warmed up to it and now want to give it a 3rd shot.

Posted by
7054 posts

I think Carol nailed it. You can't go to a place like Naples in a tired state - it will annoy the heck out of you and you'll hate it very quickly. You have to have all your senses with you and just go with the flow and just absorb the chaos...there is beauty underneath all that mess but it takes a while to peel back all the layers. It's definitely not curated or sanitized for the tourist in mind but you get a good sense of how other people, including many poor immigrants, make do in a place that has a long history of mafia corruption and failure in basic local services like trash pick up and pollution control that we take for granted. The pastries and coffee are delicious (especially sfogliatelle and baba cake) - but not everyone loves Neapolitan pizza.

Posted by
14731 posts

Love your report and so glad you got to Herculaneum!

With each trip you will refine your planning and find what works for you all. I am thinking one of your takeaways from this trip is that research makes a difference!

Posted by
524 posts

I appreciate what you are saying. I suppose my comments are more for the audience that aren't regular travelers, of who will go different places before circling around, if ever, to the same place. I waited 31 years of marriage to go to Europe....for just 10 days. I just don't have the time or funds to give a place multiple chances to amaze me, and I imagine others don't either. So, I guess for the traveler like me, this is just an insight to my impressions if you don't have time to learn to love a city or town.

It's good of you both to give your opionions for a well rounded view!

Posted by
167 posts

I have been to Italy and left most of the tourist hot spots, must do list, etc. out of my travels.
Like the original poster, I think there are so many wonderful places (with less tourists ) that I would like to spend my time in.

So I appreciate the honest impressions!

Posted by
11613 posts

Lulu, I appreciate your post - you are always ready to take into account the variables (being tired, not knowing what to expect...). I would never suggest a first-time traveler to Italy to put Napoli at the end of a 10-day trip. It needs time and patience. Personally, I love Napoli and go back every other year, or more, but I have the privilege of spending some time there (four to six nights). Disclosure: my father was born near Napoli, so to me it's home second to Roma.

I'm happy you had an almost perfect trip!

Zoe.

Posted by
985 posts

LuLu - I appreciate the honesty of your trip reports. I too don't have the funds to keep returning to a place waiting for it to grow on me. With that said, I wouldn't necessarily skip Naples based on your report but I would certainly take it into account, along with the other posters comments. I know I'll be over that way again and am glad for your feedback.

Posted by
2688 posts

Agree absolutely about visiting places in a tired state, or anything less than tip-top condition--it's going to affect your opinion and enjoyment of the place. I travel solo and have learned to pace myself and yet still sometimes find tiredness and aggravation wearing away at my usual intrepid resolve & cheerfulness. Case in point was my visit to Prague last May--after a pleasantly busy yet relaxing week in Krakow, Warsaw and Gdansk where you could actually find solitude in public spaces if need be, Prague was overwhelming in terms of the sheer numbers of people, crowds, had a hard time at first with orienting myself, less than clement weather and I just felt cranky. Beautiful city and I saw (and ate) so many wonderful things but inwardly it was a struggle. I call this "second country (or city) syndrome", and thus now plan to visit the more exhausting/busy cities first while I'm still perky.

Posted by
2540 posts

Thank you Lulu for your trip report about Naples. In my opinion, too often trip reports are bit one-sided and fail to include a realistic view of a city or region. Your report reminded me of a Christmas letter received some years ago, in which the author included some lowlights...refreshing balance to my life/kids are perfect letters.