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Krakow Daytrip Report - Underrated Upper Silesia

Hi all, I wanted to post this trip report I've had sitting on my laptop about a day trip that I did from Krakow back in early Aug to the relativity undiscovered next-door region of Upper Silesia. I was visiting friends for a few days before traveling on to Sweden and had a rental car at my disposal. I hope to shed some light on a few alternative day trip ideas from Krakow, outside the typical Zakopane/Salt Mines etc.

The full day plan was this:
(All sites within 1:30 hr from Krakow)
Morning – Visit the baroque town of Pszczyna and see the old German Palace
Midday – Stop in Katowice and see the brand-new Silesian Museum
Afternoon – Check out the Benedictine Abbey in Tyniec (oldest monastery in Poland)

Here is my photo album of the trip - https://photos.app.goo.gl/vNGytwZaUFbQWPUR8

First a little context about Upper Silesia…
Silesia is a historical region in the southwest of Poland and is rich in culture, tradition, and industrial heritage. Having been contested between the Germanic world and Slavic world over centuries, it has an eclectic mix of architecture and history. This means visiting here offers a unique perspective into Central European history. Upper Silesia is the easternmost part of the region, compared to Lower Silesia which is closer to the German border. Silesia has a very strong regional identity, its own dialect, culture, and customs even a fledgling independence movement.

Driving around Upper Silesia, I found an eclectic mix of architectural styles that spoke to Silesia’s complicated multicultural history. Gothic cathedrals stand tall next to baroque palaces and modernist structures, each echoing a particular era's spirit. Many towns and villages have a distinctly Germanic feel, with half-timbered houses and cobbled streets, interspersed with later Communist buildings.

The region grew rich with the exploitation of its vast coal and mineral resources during the industrial revolution and later Communist period. This wealth is evident in the grandeur of many of its buildings, as well as in the sprawling mining complexes and factories that dot the landscape. These industrial sites, once the beating heart of the Silesian economy, have now mostly decommissioned and transformed into innovative cultural and recreational spaces. For instance, old mines and factories have been repurposed as museums, concert halls, and even shopping centers.

The Silesia Museum in Katowice tells this story much better than me but that covers it I think :)

Part 1: The Adventure of the Tour de Pologne
The trip started out with quite the adventure as when I woke up I found all roads around my hotel in Krakow had been completely shut down by the police for the Tour de Pologne, a multi stage bike race across Poland modeled after the Tour de France. There was literally no way to get out of the area where the hotel was except by foot, people were stranded, a line of cars of both locals and tourists trying to get out but no one would be let through. No one could get to work, or catch a plane or anything, a major cock up by the local authorities not letting an exit for cars in the area.

I only had this day to make my day trip so I decided not to give up just yet. I followed some local Poles in my car and they were in their car. We worked together to navigate the pedestrian only narrow back streets (which were empty) until we got into a business parking lot. I guess the local Poles were pretty frustrated at this point as they tore down the barriers to the next street. I follow them over the sidewalk onto the next street where we were met by a Police blockade only a few meters from the entrance to the expressway and freedom!

Continued below:

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The local Poles tried their luck but after several minutes of angry arguing with the Police got them nowhere and they were turned around. Then it was my turn to try my luck. I played stupid and mentioned something about an airport and a late flight, the officer did not speak English well and after radioing his commander they waved me through the blockade and I was home free on the express way in a minute. What an insanity!

Part 2: Pszczyna + Schloss Pleß
My first stop was Pszczyna, an ancient city and former capital of the Duchy of Pless in German or Pszczyna in Polish. It was under the rule of Polish, Austrian, then Prussian rule and back to Poland after WWI. Its charming market square is filled with pastel-colored baroque and 19th century buildings, mainly from its German phase. The main attraction is the Pszczyna Castle (https://www.inyourpocket.com/katowice/pszczyna-castle_155752v), also known as Schloss Pleß. Once the residence of local German dukes, it is a fine example of baroque architecture and is surrounded by a beautiful English-style park. Inside, the castle offers perfectly preserved 18th and 19th century interiors including original furniture and artifacts, a rarity to survive both WWI and WWII.

Speaking of WWI, Schloss Pleß was very historically important as it was the Eastern Front HQ for Kaiser Wilhelm II. You can still tour his private apartments including his original desk and a large table where he and his generals planned out WWI, this was the place where the Kaiser decided to enact unrestricted submarine warfare against the USA, prompting them to join the war. They even still have the original table where they took an iconic photo of the Kaiser with Hindenburg and Ludendorff, see my photo album. Overall I took 2-3 hours to see the palace and town square.

There is also a Silesian ethnographic museum and European Bison reserve close by but I had no time to visit. Had to move one to Katowice. During my visit I only ran into local Polish tourists, it felt like I was the only foreigner in town lol!

Part 3: Katowice + Silesian Museum
On my way back, I stopped at Katowice, once heavily industrialized during the Communist times, the city has transformed into a modern cultural hub in the last decade. The city's new era is symbolized by the Silesian Museum (https://www.inyourpocket.com/katowice/silesian-museum_137651v), a brand-new state of the art museum built atop the former coal mines. Above ground, you'll find sleek modern glass buildings, but the main exhibitions are found underground, preserving the memory of the mine. The museum showcases a wide variety of exhibits, including art, historical artifacts, and multimedia installations detailing the history of the region.

I only had time to visit the “Upper Silesia throughout the history” Exhibit which told the story of the region from prehistory, through the middle ages, and up to the fall of communism. The exhibit is very well done and immersive, you went from room to room each set up in a different age of history with original artifacts. There were also a lot of multimedia and interactive experiences, a lot of money and time was spent creating this place, unfortunately only a handful of foreign tourists were there, most of the time I had the whole place to myself. The exhibit also shed light on the little-known post WWI Silesian Wars between Germany and Poland for this lucrative coal-mining region (in which actually Poland won).

I ate lunch at close by a restaurant called PLACEK (https://www.placek.katowice.pl/), which specialized in gluten free versions of traditional Polish cuisine. I had a Zurek soup and Ruskie Pierogi it was actually quite good, some of the best pierogi I’ve had in Poland, gluten free or not, they were made with a buckwheat dough and filled with cheese and potatoes and topped with caramelized onions.

Continued below:

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Part 4: Tyniec Monastery
The last stop was Tyniec Monastery (https://www.inyourpocket.com/krakow/tyniec-abbey-krakows-cliffside-monastery_73875f), one of Poland's most significant religious centers. It's renowned not only for its historic and architectural value but also for its modern-day monks who continue to live by the Benedictine rule, producing organic foods and hosting spiritual retreats.

Located on a series of cliffs overlooking the Vistula River, the Benedictine Abbey in Tyniec is a serene escape from the hustle and bustle of Krakow, but only a short 15 min drive from the city center. As the oldest monastery in Poland, it dates back to the 11th century. The complex is composed of a fortified abbey, a church, and monastic buildings. While here, you can also purchase products made by the monks, including jams, honeys, and herbal teas, I bought some local Liden Flower tea.

The panoramic views of the river and the surrounding landscapes from the monastery are simply breathtaking. One could walk down and there was a bike path and fishing area along the Vistula, it was very popular with local families, I saw no foreign tourists just like in Pszczyna. Interestingly I saw a marker for the Camino de Santiago at the monastery, signifying this is a stop for the medieval Camino coming from Central and further Eastern Europe. A leisurely stroll along the Vistula in the golden hour of the afternoon capped off this very busy yet rewarding day trip!

Here is the link to my photos again - https://photos.app.goo.gl/vNGytwZaUFbQWPUR8

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Wow, thanks, Carlos. I was pleasantly surprised by your comments about

Katowice, once heavily industrialized during the Communist times, the city has transformed into a modern cultural hub in the last decade.

We visited a friend in Katocwice in 1983 or so, and it was stark and gray, almost a stereotype of Soviet era design. I'm glad to hear of the transformation.

Thanks again for an interesting report.

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Thanks Jane! Katowice was a pleasant surprise, it's now a hip fusion of a revitalized urban playground, 19th century German architecture, and sparkling new 21st century glass skyscrapers. Very clean, welcoming, and undertouristed. A nice accompaniment to busy Krakow, Katowice feels similar but different - https://www.inyourpocket.com/katowice

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I'm just beginning to read your thread. Oh my, what a mess with the closed roads and nice job playing hapless tourist to get yourself out!

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I had a Zurek soup and Ruskie Pierogi

I'm already missing Polish food!!

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I'm just beginning to read your thread. Oh my, what a mess with the closed roads and nice job playing hapless tourist to get yourself out!

Yes one to tell the family back home, I must say I felt a bit like James Bond 😂

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I love reading your reports of day trips from this area. On my first trip, I had a couple I wanted to take and it didn’t work out. So I was glad to get (unexpectedly) the opportunity to take an overnight from Krakow last summer. I headed toward Zalipie and several of the wooden churches. I ended up in the town of Nowy Targ for an overnight and never saw a tourist. Of any nationality. But the drive there from my last stop of Church of St. Philip and St. James was gorgeous. (I did have 3 more stops the next day before returning my car.)

There really is so much to see in the surrounding area and I would never have known if you hadn’t mentioned so much of it!

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I must say I felt a bit like James Bond

🤣 Indeed! 🤣

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For fellow history buffs, I recommend a visit to the tri-point spot in Myslowice just outside Katowice where the Prussian, Russian, and Austro-Hungarian empires met, Three Emperors Corner.

The spot seems isolatedbut it's not too far off the main road and there is a housing development right there, I saw a father biking with his two young children so it's probably a safe place. There was a group of young men partying there during our visit but we didn't feel anxious about them (but we did stay aware).

It's a bit disappointing that this spot which was so pivotal in Poland's history doesn't seem to be appreciated much by the Poles today, I would never have known it even existed had I not just stumbled upon it during a web search - this should have more prominence than it currently does.

To find it in Google maps, locate it using plus code 65J5+232 Sosnowiec, Poland or search for Trójkąt Trzech Cesarzy.
It's located where the Biala Przemsza river empties into the Przemsza river.

Note: There are 2 historical landmark icons shown on Google maps, we visited the spot on the Northwest sector of the tri-point which seems to be the main attraction, from other visitor's photos the other one seems to have just a small black monument - perhaps there is more to it but I didn't investigate it due to time constraints.

If you go make sure you take the street named Dawnego Pogranicza instead of Szlak Dawnego Pogranicza.
Unbenownst to me, the latter is more of a trail which is muddy and full of ruts, which makes sense since Szlak translates to Trail, and Dawnego Pogranicza translates to Old Borderland (per my iphone translator).

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Upper Silesia is a singularly important historical area. Those post-WW1 Silesian Wars lead to the plebiscites that resulted in the detachment of Upper Silesia to Poland.

I saw Katowice, ie the train station area only once. That was in 2001 when the train stopped there for some minutes and I had a bit of time looking from the window, which could be opened then. First time I ever saw coal in boxcars on the tracks.

Thanks for the information on the Silesian Museum in Katowice. I saw the Upper Silesian Museum in Germany, ( das Landesmuseum Oberschlesien ) located in Ratingen in the greater Düsseldorf area. Take the S-Bahn Direction : Essen to Ratingen.

It would be very revealing and interesting to compare and contrast the presentations and coverage of both museums.