Naples: we made the mistake of taking a day trip to Naples on a Sunday. Took the hydofoil from Sorrento, walked up the Via Toledo to the Archaeological Museum, walked back through Spaccanapoli and took the Circumvesuviana back to Sorrento. The city was deserted, particularly Spaccanapoli, so we regret missing the "life" of the city. Both of RS's pizza places were closed we did find one of Fodor's places (Lombardi a Santa Chiara) open and had great pizza. Sorrento itself: don't miss the walk down to Marina Grande. Paestum: well worth the trip. Our original plan was to take the boat to Salerno and the train to Paestum but apparently the company that sails to Salerno is not sailing from Sorrento this year. Nobody at the TI or at our hotel desk could seem to help us with coordinating ferry times (we found online info after the fact), so we ended up taking the Circumvesuviana to Naples and taking the train to Paestum. I know we could have gotten off at Pompeii and walked 20 minutes to the Trenitalia station, but for some reason (I still don't understand why, perhaps the heat?) we didn't and were kind of glad we didn't. The Regionale train was jammed packed from Naples and if we had gotten on in Salerno, we would have stood. In Naples, Regionale tickets are not available at the great Trenitalia automated machines but must be purchased from the Hudson News (of all things) newstand and store across from the larger ticket office. A long day back and forth to Paestum but well worth it.
Places to eat in Sorrento: absolutely recommend Ristorante Delfino in Marina Grande. Great food and one of the nicest settings we've ever eaten at.
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