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June-July 2012 England & Wales

Just returned from two weeks in England and Wales and I wanted to share the most memorable bits. Salisbury.
We stayed in a b&b called the Edwardian, which had a great location, room and breakfast, but lacked in proprietor warmth. It was short scenic walk from the center of town along the river. The town was filled with locals and tourists on Saturday morning for market day with stalls filled with all sorts of things, including fresh mushrooms of all sorts and a mobile butcher. There were some great stores in town including a jewelry shop next to the Haunch of Venison where my husband got his watch battery changed. They had new and antique jewelry. Just like every city, there was a Marks and Spencers clothing/food shop and Waterstone book shop. Later that day we visited Salisbury Cathedral, boasting the tallest spire in England and one of the original copies of the Magna Carta. Don't miss the 2-hour tour of the spire...lots of steps...but worth the back-of-the-house view of the cathedral, including stained glass windows and church bells within hands reach, and views of the city from high atop the spire. Sarum College B&B, within the cathedral close, was sold out, but after visiting, we will book there next visit. Dinner at the Kings Head Inn was GREAT and the location along the water was pretty.

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Salisbury to Cornwall Stonehenge. A must visit...but you might find buying a British Heritage Pass useful, as it allows you to jump the very long lines to get in. I remember the days of sitting on the stones (1970-80's), so I was dissapointed with standing behind the ropes. Apparently if you book early, you can take a tour within the ropes...I'd recommend that. Okehampton Castle was beautiful. Set atop a hill in Okehampton, it wasn't very crowded and was fun to climb. We took the audio tour they offered, but after the first few stops, turned it off. It was more dramatic than informative. Tintagel has not received rave reviews on the RS blogs, but we liked it. It has been called 'touristy,' but we didn't find it any more touristy than some of the other Cornwall village we visited. We stayed at the Trevenna Lodge with views of the coastline. We ate at the King Arthurs Arms pub - twice because it was so fabulous. Fish and Chips and Beef and Ale Pie...yum. I was loving the ciders across England...and my husband the ales. The next day we had the BEST scones with clotted cream and jam at Pengenna Pasties. Port Isaac. Yes, we are Doc Marin fans, so this stop was a must see...although teeming with tourists in a way that Tintagel was not. I can see why they shot the show in this village by the sea. It was quaint with amazing views. The roads in Cornwall are very narrow. My husband got the hang of it, but it was tight. It takes more time than you think to get from one location to another because either you or the oncoming traffic is always giving way. If you rent, try to get a diesel car...we spent less than half the amount we expected on fuel because it got such good mileage.

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Lands End Others have posted they think Lands End is too touristy...in this case...I would agree. There are so many glorious cliffs and beaches, it seems silly to pay to gain entrance into an area with shops, restaurants and vantage points...along with busloads of tourists...just to say you'd been to the Southern tip of England. But, we did it! St. Buryan/Lamorna/Porthcurno WOW! One of our favorite B&Bs was Lowendra B&B (http://www.lowendra.co.uk/). They have just two newly refurbished, reasonably priced rooms with a great breakfast. The Minack Theater (http://www.minack.com/)
The most amazing view of the coastline as you watch a play outside. The hot tip is to take a picnic lunch with you. The couple in front of us had a bottle of wine and we were envious as we had arrived too late to purchase a drink from the restaurant. Dress warmly as the weather can turn on a dime.

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Wales Caernarfon Castle. The town is not as pretty as other Welsh towns, but the castle is fabulous. There are many nooks and crannies to explore and the views from all anges atop the castle walls are gorgous. The Victoria House B&B within the Caernarfon castle/town wall was clean, beautifully decorated, and Jan the owner was one of the warmest proprietors we encountered. Aberaeron. Llys Aeron (http://www.llysaeron.co.uk/) was another pretty B&B. Largest rooms and bathrooms of all and such luxuriously decorations. Dewi, the proprietor, was incredibly friendly and helpful. The town of Aberaeron is so pretty, sitting along the coast. Many of the homes along the water are painted different colors and it is clean and welcoming. Must try the Honey Ice Cream at the Hive. Carreg Cennan Castle. There are many fabulous castles in wales. This one is set in the countryside, rather than along the ocean, and has sweeping views. If you take a flashlight (torch, as the locals would say), you can go down a long walkway deep into the castle. Snowdonia. So many beautiful villages...so little time... Betwys-Y-Coed is gorgeous...Swallow Falls...and if the weather is good...the train up Mount Snowdon.