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July-Aug 2023 trip report Part 3: Roma

Overlap/repeat of overview from parts 1&2

3 posts for our trip to Italy - one for each city we stayed in, 4 nights, 3 full days each.
I should also note that this was my sixth trip to Italy and my husbands fourth. Having already hit the big 3 and their major sights in the past, this trip we mostly focused on food, day trips and just relaxing.

Links to parts 1 (Firenze) & 2 (Sorrento):

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/12-nights-in-italy-jul-aug-2023-trip-report-part-1a-firenze

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/12-nights-in-italy-jul-aug-2023-trip-report-part-2-sorrento

Arrival in Roma

We arrived in Rome at 5pm via fast train from Naples and took a taxi to our hotel in Trastevere (€12). We were assigned a room on the third floor overlooking the interior garden, great view. A few steps from our door were the steps to the rooftop terrace, so once we were settled in we headed up for a quick pic. There were no other guests on the terrace which wasn’t too surprising considering the heat and lack of shade. Great view but better for evenings after peak of the heat.

We were glad we arrived early enough to explore the Trastevere neighborhood before sunset. It was our first time staying in this part of the city and I was a little nervous (looking at maps in advance) that it may be difficult to get around. We asked the hotel front desk if it would be easy to walk to campo di fiori and they said “oh yes, it is very easy”; they were right, it was super easy to navigate. We made our way to the city center, through campo di fiori, by the Pantheon and through Piazza Navona. It was a good 20-30 min walk but didn’t feel like it was that long given we were taking in the sights.

By this time we were ready for dinner, so we strolled a few blocks from P. Navona and I was pleased to find my beloved Osterio da Mario open (one year when we were here they were closed on holiday); note this restaurant was found as an RS recommendation in 2014. And so, we were seated outside and were surrounded by locals, always a good sign. The tables were a little close together for my liking (I need my personal space, haha) but we enjoyed it, there was a good vibe as we settled in for what would be a fantastic dinner.

We started with bruschetta and a half liter of wine to share, followed by the Roman chicken for me, and the hubby chose gnocchi with sea bass. The chicken was just as amazing as I remember it. We ended the meal with an espresso, for a total bill of €41,50 (including bread and acqua naturale) - not an expensive dinner at all!

After dinner we made our way back through P. Navona then back to Trastevere where we enjoyed a performance with the young crowd at Piazza Trilussa. There was quite a crowd including a few that were just circling around the band dancing. One dude was getting down I couldn’t resist videoing some of it (and later when re-watching the video I zoomed in to watch said dude rocking out when I realized and said to my husband, “he’s lighting a doobie”. Ahh people watching …) it was a great way to end the night.

While Trastevere may have been known as more of a local neighborhood in the past, it seems to be the new lively hotspot these days. We knew on night one we made a good choice in where we decided to stay this trip.

Continued in comments…

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146 posts

Continued….

First full day in Roma

It was a busy first full day with a tour of the Domus Aurea underground and an evening food tour of Trastevere (via thetourguy.com).

After breakfast at our hotel we made our way down to the taxi stand at P. Trilussa to catch a taxi to the monument. We arrived early enough - thanks to the recommendations on this forum about the domus aurea ingresso - to find the entrance with 10 min to spare.

When planning the sights tor this trip, this peaked my interest being (1) underground, for a reprieve from the heat (2) being there is ongoing excavation at the site (3) given the price of tickets and they were readily available. The downside to a weekday visit is you do not get a tour and access of the entire monument where the ongoing excavation is taking place, but you do get a guided tour in any case and in our case our visit fell at a time when a new exhibit was added for a short period of time “l’amato di iside”. So many cool artifacts on loan and display, along with the various corridors within the monument and video depictions of what the site was thought to have looked like. This is a hidden gem the tourist masses have not discovered. Definitely recommend.

Following the tour we needed a pick me up but didn’t want to do anything big given the food tour that evening, so we walked back to Trastevere and thought what better way to spend the afternoon than with apertivos and a nap before the evening tour ..

Our food tour (Trastevere local food tour)
included a group of 10 from almost all corners of the US - SoCal, Florida, NY, Jersey and Puerto Rico. It was a great group and our tour guide, Dimitri, was excellent. Starting from Piazza Farnese, the stops included:
-wine, cheese and meat from “Viola” in campo di fiori before heading over to Trastevere
-next stop, a funky candy themed spot “Caramella” for wine and arancini - the best arancini we’ve had to date
-third stop - for the sit down meal at “Casa Mia” which included bread, cheese, cacio e pepe and amatriciana pasta (the latter not better than Osteria da Mario), veal and vegetables in the most amazing gravy, and of course, more wine. The meal ended with a cheers of limoncello shots
-fourth and final stop, for gelato .. probably the best I’ve had but I did not note the name and I cannot seem find it on maps, weird.

We all went our separate ways with several suggestions from Dimitri of other places to try. This tour definitely ranks as one of our favorites. With only two full days remaining I was wondering how our trip passed so quickly…

Second full day in Roma

Today was a free day and I was hoping the hubby would be ready to give the train another go for a day trip to Orvieto. Surprisingly he agreed, and so we woke early to catch the regional train at 9am. However, I didn’t do a deep enough dive on research and wasn’t prepared for the possibility it was in the boonies (est) track of the train station. I thought 10 min would be plenty of time to locate it from arrival at the train station, but we found ourselves running to catch it, only to miss it by (literally) 30 seconds. On the bright side, regional train tix can be used for trains within 4 hours, the downside was the next train was departing from a different station. This gave us the opportunity to try another first for the hubby - the metro (I haven’t taken it since early 2000s). We have thus far avoided in the summer but thought maybe we should give it a go for €1 each in lieu of the likely €10 taxi ride alternative.

To be Continued …

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146 posts

Continued…

The metro was great. We navigated to the appropriate line easily, purchased tix - although had to use card when my preference is cash - and before we knew it, 7 min later we were at Roma Tiburtina station. We had 40 min to wait which we didn’t mind after having missed the earlier by a hair. We stopped for a caffe crema at the station (why can’t we find these in the states? If anyone knows where-please share!) and made our way down to the platform. The regional train was surprisingly comfortable (more so than Metrolink at home), was empty and the AC worked better than the fast trains. An hour and a half later we arrived in Orvieto and made our way up to the hilltown via funicular (so cool!).

Because we arrived so late we missed the opportunity for the underground tour so instead we wandered for a bit and then stopped for lunch where we shared a pizza - it was fantastic but the vibe of the restaurant felt off. I actually got locked in the bathroom and nearly panicked. After lunch, we took a few photos as we wandered around and found our way back and to the train station with time to spare.

Back in Trastevere, we returned to Caramella for dinner where we ordered way too much - I wanted bruschetta, while the hubby wanted to try the fried pizzette and more arancini. And although that should have been enough, I couldn’t resist trying their amatriciana and the hubby was ready for a more American sandwich and ordered the club with fried egg. Everything was delicious - now my new fav restaurant for amatriciana. We made friends with the waiter who is actually dating an American living in LA so it was cool to talk to him and hear about his experiences in visiting SoCal. After this meal we really were in a food coma with us both joking about loosening our belts and that we needed to walk some of this off because it was too uncomfortable to sit down. We wandered in search of musicians and happened across one where we watched for a bit before turning in for the night.

Final full day in Roma and departure back home

On our last full day in Roma, we were able to sleep in, relax and just take in being here. Finally got around to taking pics of our hotel garden and the church inside the hotel. Pretty cool place although a little higher than my budget would have liked.

We took more pics of the Trastevere neighborhood, it really is beautiful, and then we made our way over to the Jewish Ghetto. Here we located bronze cobblestones that can be found placed in front of homes in remembrance of those who were arrested, deported to Auschwitz and killed; pretty sad and moving to see in person.

We then made our way over near the Pantheon area to try “Two Sizes” tiramisu - recommended by our food tour guide and it did not disappoint.

We returned to Trastevere for dinner and located a restaurant I had bookmarked in my research on this forum to try, “La Tavernetta 29”. There was a short line but we were seated outside within minutes. The service was great and the food another favorite for the trip: lasagna for the hubby and vodka pasta for me.

The next morning was our departure and like that our trip was over.

Summary of Roma -

Where we stayed: Donna Camilla Savelli (Via Garibaldi, 27)

Final notes/observations for this leg of the trip:

-Loved the hotel and the location. It’s too bad the terrace did not have any shade or we would have spent more time up there during the day. Also a pigeon problem here if you eat in the hotel garden. Wifi worked good but not on the terrace.

-Great restaurants nearby

-recommend a tour of the domus aurea

-recommend a trastevere food tour

-arrive early to the train station if you are taking a regional train! This was my first time taking a regional train and my first time missing my train..

Posted by
7799 posts

Really enjoying your trip reports, Crystal!

Could you tell me the specific name of your Trastevere food tour? My daughter & I did one last year, and it was, unfortunately, the worst food tour I have taken in Europe. I would love to have a positive experience next year when I’m back in Rome.

Posted by
146 posts

@jean thanks!

It was “trastevere local food tour” offered by thetourguy.com and our guide, Dimitri, was great.

I’m pretty sure in my research it was your comments on your food tour that was the deciding factor for me in picking between two different companies for our tour :-D so thanks and I hope you have a better experience next time.

Edit to add: Although the food tour was sold as Trastevere it did start at piazza farnese (presumably it was easier for the group to meet up at?) with our first stop being in campo di fiori. Some of the tour members commented on that but I didn't think it was a huge deal and it was fine by us.

Posted by
4044 posts

Hey, Jean! Can you name your food tour? I'm headed to Rome in April, plan to do a food tour, and would like to avoid that one!

Posted by
3438 posts

Thank you Crystal for all 3 parts of your trip report! I have enjoyed it all very much.

Did your food tour include the Carciofi alla Giudia?

I got locked in an ancient bathroom on a wine tour in the Priorat, and then again in a bathroom in a NYC restaurant!

Posted by
7799 posts

@Dave, here’s the details, plus a bonus about tiramisu.

“ I really enjoy food tours and have always recommended them for a chance to try several local foods & hear interesting stories of the area. Here’s one I do not recommend: “Rome Trastevere Food Tour – Do Eat Better Experience”. The guide barely shared any info walking us in circles and as a finale, she started walking away with gelato in hand without even giving us directions of how to get back to our meeting spot! I had to call out to her to find out which direction we should walk. The highlight was a great carbonara and white wine at a restaurant and a sample at a generational cheese shop; otherwise, it wasn’t memorable.

On the other hand, if you like food experiences and also tiramisu, be sure to stop into Mr. 100 Tiramisu near the Pantheon! The place is full of atmosphere, and good luck trying to decide which tiramisu to order from the huge list on the wall! We opted for the sample tray of three, selecting: a pistachio cream & crunchy coconut; a pumpkin with ginger & chocolate shavings; an intense dark, sour cherry with chocolate – all wonderful!”

Posted by
4044 posts

HI, Jean. Thanks for the additional information on the food tour! A friend and I are going to Venice and Rome. I've been to both; he has not been to Venice; he has been to Rome but has more he wants to see. I'm hoping to do a food tour at both places and hopefully catch some recommendations for the rest of our stays in each place. Thanks, too, for the Tiramisu recommendation. I have my restaurant recommendation "Note" started so that I can add places as I run into them.

Posted by
4044 posts

Crystal--

Falied to say that I really enjoyed Part 3. Thanks for sharing your trip!

Posted by
477 posts

Thank you Crystal for your recommendation of LaTavernetta29. We are hoping to get to have dinner there at the end of September.
Jean anvd Dave - I am doing a food tour with Devour Tours, Testaccio Rome : Food and Market tour. I'll post on how it goes. They usually have a sale on Black Friday.

Posted by
7799 posts

@Leslie, thanks! I’ll be back next May and would definitely like to do a food tour or another cooking class in Rome.

Posted by
146 posts

@estimated prophet - thank you! It did not include Carciofi alla Giudia - I thought it was supposed to but I could be confusing that with another tour we considered…I would love to try that! Similar experience on my food tour in Firenze - I thought it was supposed to include bistecca fiorentina, but it did not, was bummed because we’d been wanting to try that and thought the food tour would be an opportunity to sample it, but I likely mistook that as being offered by a different tour co.
You got locked in - twice!! what are the chances? Not a fun moment !

@dave - thank you!

@leslie - please let us know how the Testaccio tour goes, that is on my radar for a future trip