Just returned from two weeks in Scotland. We've been several times but this was the first in many years. Totally enjoyed it, and appreciated the help from Rick's Scotland guide. Here are a few observations:
Lodging tips:
-- Eildon Guest House, Inverness. Very good B&B in a nice neighborhood just up the hill from Inverness city centre. Efficient innkeeper Jacqueline is great — offers good tips for restaurants. Good breakfast, comfortable rooms.
-- Mhor 84, Balquhidder (Kingshouse). Quirky ex-roadside motel in a building from the 1740s run by the Lewis family of Monachyle Mhor fame. Rooms are small but quite comfortable. The food is outstanding, as would be expected!! Probably the most satisfying dinner of the entire trip.
-- Stein Inn, Isle of Skye. Classic pub with rooms – what they say is the oldest inn in Scotland. Enjoyed four nights here, including good pub food. Most important feature: Stunningly beautiful setting.
Top attractions:
-- Scottish Crannog Centre, Kenmore. Re-creation of Iron Age lodging in Loch Tay. Good presentation and demonstrations. Great for kids to learn and try things out. Our No. 1 visit.
-- Neist Point, Skye. Amazingly dramatic cliffs and water views. You can walk to a lighthouse right out on the point, but be aware that the walk is quite difficult. Very steep climb back up to the car park.
-- St. Columba's Isle, Skeabost, Skye. A bit difficult to find given no signposts, but worth the effort. Site of what was once the Cathedral of the Isles for 300 years. Now just ruins and memorial stones. A good reminder that the buildings aren't what's important in our spiritual journey.
-- Urquhart Castle, Drumnadrochit. Classic ruins right on Loch Ness. Don't miss it!
-- Highland Folk Museum, Newtonmore. Outdoor "park" with rebuilt buildings showing highland life. Free!! Worth a visit.
-- The Battle of Bannockburn. New (at least to us) visitors center with innovative "battle room" where you can participate in "fighting" the battle yourself. Good job of fairly setting up Scottish and English points of view coming into the battle.
-- Dunvegan Castle, Isle of Skye. Historic building with interesting history and beautiful setting. Also has nice gardens.
-- Stirling Castle, Stirling. Amazing setting high on a hill. Perhaps the most interesting restoration work of any historic site I've visited. The royal palace, chapel and great hall now appear how they would have in the time of James VI/I.
Issues/things to watch out for:
-- Go early!! Especially in the summer, some of these places get very crowded. The earlier you arrive, the better. Stirling Castle and Urquhart Castle, in particular, have limited parking areas given their popularity.
-- Leault Working Sheepdogs. Our only real disappointment of the trip. We were pleased to spot this in Rick's guidebook and eager to see it. Unfortunately, so were hundreds of others, most of whom were on big bus tours. There's not much room for all the buses (coaches, the Scots would say), and the people from the buses don't make much effort allowing any space for us individual travelers. Also, the price is higher than published (£6), there are UNSCHEDULED presentations — apparently these are primarily for the buses — and as the presentation closes, the presenter hawks his wife's books. I would not go back. Period.
All in all, Scotland remains a wonderful place to visit. Enjoy!