Japan Trip Report Dec '25 thru Jan '26

sounds like a wonderful trip! we were in Japan last fall and were so smitten, we're planning another trip for fall '26.

the first time, we didn't get to the Hakone region, so we're trying to work it into our upcoming itinerary. I've been researching ryokans in the area, and Madokano no Mori is definitely on our list, so it was great to read your review. we're planning to stay for 2 nights -- how did you find the Gora area in terms of ease of getting around? we'd like to go to the Open Air museum and possibly do some light hiking/walking. we're also looking at ryokans a little closer to the lake shore (Yoshimatsu) and someplace roughly in-between the 2 areas, Suishoen. would love to hear your thoughts!

Day 4 Kyoto. train to Kinkaku-ji Shrine. Often called the Golden Temple. about 30 minutes outside the city. Spectacularly beautiful! Serene spot over looking a lake. We also did a tea ceremony at https://chayu-kyoto.com/. It was about an hour and very relaxed, not alot of rules about sitting or not talking. She did a beautiful ceremony for us, then explained it, then we each made our own Matcha tea (not as easy as it looks). Walked around Gion area. Many tourists do a full day of getting dressed as a geisha and take pictures. We did not participate, but it was fun to see all the beautiful dresses and people taking photos. Lunch at Ramen Sen-no-kaze. 9/10 Some say it is the best Ramen in Kyoto. Men-ya-Inoichi Ramen was also recommended to us, but had a 2 hour wait so we skipped it. In the afternoon we walked to Aman Dukotan Bakery for a treat as well as walking in a new neighborhood. The sweet and savory treats and sandwiches were very good. very crowded but line moved quickly. Ended the day at Tai Sushi. Was highly recommended to us. It is not your typical American sushi restaurant. only 14 counter seats (we waited about 45 minutes for seats). You order a fish per person (like fatty tuna) , they bring you a plate of chunks of fish. You can order rice and a few other things like Octopus and Eel. It was a bit too much fish for me, but my family loved it. It was fun to watch the chef and talk to everyone at the counter. Most taxis from tourist area to our Westin hotel were $14-15.
Day 5. Hakone. Took Shinkensen to Odawara (2 hours). Walked around the town and got lunch at a Goyza restaurant. I'm sorry I didn't write down the name because we had amazing goyza and delicious cabbage and cilantro salad. Back to Train station for train to Hakone Yumoto station (about 30 minutes). Then we got on the Hakone Tozan Cable Car up the mountain to Gora station.(look for signs to the cable car). It took an hour to get to the top of the mountain to the Gora station where the hotel picked us up in a van. Lots of switchbacks up the mountain. If you go to Hakone , your hotel will give you clear directions on how to get there. It was fun to be with the locals on the trains and cable car. We stayed at Madokone no Mori. It was a splurge $$$. but worth it. We got the full package with dinner and a simple breakfast (although you can stay without food, I highly suggest the 8 course dinner with chef- It was amazing and fun and delicious!). We had a king size room with a hot springs "hot tub" on our balcony which was HOT and so relaxing. * two futons on the ground for our kids. We also went to the separate gender public hot springs in the hotel basement. indoor and outdoor pools available. No clothing or bathing suits allowed so my teenager was not interested, but I found it relaxing and calming; only one other person in the changing area when I was there so I was not uncomfortable. There are many other hotels in Hakone. I highly recommend staying for a night or two. Our friends also recommended Ten-Yu onsen but they were booked for our dates. Looks like a great option!

@milgreen2. The onsen we stayed at, Madokano no Mori, is located on the top of a mountain. The Hakone Tozan Cable car (I call a Tram) up was fun with many, many switchbacks. We were there for less than 24hours so we spent every second at the onsen. But the hotel has several passenger vans to drive customers around. I would contact the concierge and ask if they can drive you to the places you want to hike and visit. They are very helpful and gave us very detailed directions on how to navigate the trains and trams. Our friend, who takes tour groups from a local university to Japan several times a year, highly recommended Ten-Yu. https://www.ten-yu.com/en/room.html
They were booked during our trip, but looks fantastic! Not a large resort, so book early. I think they are a bit more centrally located and can provide transportation to the open air museum, ropeway, and hikes. Again, we found their concierge very helpful with any questions. At both locations, we highly recommend getting the full meal package with the room. The chefs are wonderful and the food is delicious!

Day 6. Tokyo- Ginza. Train to Tokyo (approx 1.5 hour from top of mountain to Tokyo station). Walked to Imperial Hotel. *Note: we had our luggage shipped to the Imperial Hotel from Kyoto. It was ready and waiting for us when we arrived. Total for 6 large bags was $82. The Imperial Hotel is a beautiful, old world hotel. First class service and food. The rooms are a bit older and smaller than a modern hotel, but the location, service, and history was worth it. After checking out of rooms, We went shopping in Ginza! First stop was the famed stationary and pen store Itoya. A total waste of time because it is SOOOO crowded you cannot get near and pens to try them. Check out the other stationary stores or department stores in the area because they have the same stuff. But, we were really hungry so we tried their restaurant on the top floor and it was good (Western style food, not Japanese). Muji was HUGE and lots to see and buy. Uniqlo-there is one on every corner so check them out when you have time. Great prices on excellent quality clothing. Loft had the best selection of items of all the stores listed above. Bought souvenirs, gifts, etc. Remember your passport to buy tax free. Onitsuki Tiger stores (red and yellow) are crowded!!!! I suggest shopping in Kyoto or HIroshimi stores and skip the Tokyo stores. Longchamp had beautiful things and the exchange rate and tax free made them less expensive than in USA. Dinner at Shabusen Ginza for Shabu Shabu (Japanese Hot Pot) 9/10. Waited 1.5 hours for a table (or counter). LOVED the food and the experience. It closes at 9pm so if you are not in line by 7:30 or 8, you won't get a table. It is on the second floor of a shopping mall so you can walk around while you wait for a seat. Notes on Ginza- The buildings are incredible. Very expensive shopping area. Very crowded. Street is closed to cars on the weekend which makes it easier to walk around.

Day 7 Tokyo-Asakusa and Shinjuku. The Subway is easy to use and pay with your phone. Be sure to tap in AND out! Subway to Sensoji Temple in Asakusa. Oldest Temple in Tokyo. Interesting rituals you can do like incense or fortunes. Then we walked to the Kitchenware street called Kappabashi. My husband was interested in buying a quality Japanese Knife. Several of the stores he researched were closed, but Jikko was open. Hubby spent about 2 hours selecting a knife. The employees spent a lot of time explaining every style and material to him in detail. I shopped in the larger kitchenware stores and bought chopsticks, chopstick rests, egg whisking stick (I recommend!), and beautiful Ramen bowls. To save time, we took a Taxi to Shinjuku area. In Lumine store is Afuri Ramen which serves Yuzu Ramen and it was so good!!! It's located in their "food court" area. Several other food stalls to choose from. Walked around the Shinjuku area. Dinner back in Ginza area at Sushi Harumi for Omakase dinner. Excellent food and quality. Chef was amazing and fun. Only 10 seats -reservations required. Our hotel made the reservation for us.

Day 8 Tokyo-Shibuya. Subway to Shibuyu for the famous Crossing. It was crazy! Shopped in Mega Don Quiote for 2 hours. PARCO mall for huge Nintendo and Pokemon and Sega stores. Vintage shopping at Nuir. Tower Records was awesome! Walked to Harajuku to see teens dressed up, but we really didn't see any. Lots of vintage shopping. Very crowded with tourists. MiPig to cuddle miniture pigs....my husband and son did NOT want to do this, but ended up loving it.....the pigs crawl in your lap or on your legs and cuddle. It's cute. 25 minutes was plenty long for us. Dinner at Conveyor belt sushi. Uobei Shushi. It was good, not great, but fun experience.

Day 9. Tokyo- Roppongi. Subway to Azabudai HIlls. walked around shops and food court. Then we did Team LAB Borderless. I saw mixed reviews online, but we LOVED IT! I highly recommend (buy tickets in advance). It was an amazing experience. Then short walk to Tokyo Tower. All the way to the top! (buy tickets in advance). Beautiful sunset.

Back to Ginza for Wagu dinner at Ginza Chikamitsu. This is an expensive dinner, but the finest Wagu beef you will every have. Different parts of the animal. It was all meat, no sides. Just meat....around 7 courses of meat. It was delicious. Ask your hotel for some directions. Restaurant was on 4th floor of an office building.

Day 10. Tokyo. Walked up to the Imperial Palace- distant views, but pretty. Open to the public on Jan 2, expect a couple hour line to see the palace and royal family. Walked to the Tokyo train station. It is a beautiful building and has the coolest food court in the basement. Many, many restaurants. It is New Years Day and all the restaurants are open for lunch. It is very crowded. We ate ramen and dumplings and sweets. So much fun. Dinner at Sushi Zen Mai. yummy sushi close to hotel.

Day 11. Tokyo- Last day. We went back to a few places we wanted to see again. Shopped for a few more souvenirs. Many stores are still closed (Jan 2) and the markets are closed too. Ichiran Raman had a 2 hour wait, so we skipped it. We tried the Mitsukoshi Dept Store Basement for the food hall, but they closed early for the holiday too. FYI- Not much happening in Tokyo Dec 31- Jan 3. If I go again over the winter, I will leave on Dec 30th. Overall, a wonderful trip!

lovely trip report! we stayed in the Ginza area last year and loved it -- at the Gate Hotel, which is a bit out of the very crowded area and convenient to several subway lines. when we return in the fall, we will stay in the Nihonbashi area.

thanks for so many ideas and suggestions for restaurants in Tokyo, and for your response to my questions about Hakone. reading about the train and cable car stations sounds incredibly confusing, but you managed to simplify it!!

Nice report. I did Kagoshima ---(Hiroshima)---> Kyoto -----> Tokyo in spring 2025. Japan is a lovely country with lovely people. I liked it a lot!